New pads and disks, easy job?

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Z3I
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:03 am

I'd like to replace the disks and shoes on my 1990 320i. Is it an easy diy job, or do you need specialist tools to pull the disks off? Pads should be ok to change I guess. Also, is it a good idea to change the flex pipes at the same time, if they are prone to decay inside? I'm planning on going to German and Swedish to get the parts, are they ok? Thanks!
dazleeds
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:07 am

should be easy to do fella

rubber mallet or hammer and block of wood to free the rear dics from the handbrake shoes etc

pipes upto you really
if theyre looking bad then yes change them better to be safe than sorry

if using gsf/ecp
get the better parts rather than the cheapest as the cheapys do tecd to squeal sometimes

also copper slip the pad mating surfaces to help eliminate any squeals etc
clean up all mating surfaces with wire brush or sandpaper etc

all in all very easy job fella

should have em all done in about an hour

good luck

Daz
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Z3I
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:15 am

Thanks for that, little job for me to do next week then!
dazleeds
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:18 am

if ya handbrakes not upto much
dnt forget to change the handbrake shoes as well

will save ya having to strip it down twice
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Geeman
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:47 am

2 parts are difficult...

The rear handbrake shoes are a pain.

If the disc retaining screw rounds off then you've got a major problem with getting it out. I've had to drill out countless screws. A complete pain.

Apart from that... a complete doddle to do. :wink:
Z3I
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 2:29 pm

Thanks everybody, I'm going to give it a go at the week-end. Car has only 36k on the clock, so I'm ecpecting light wear but seized parts also. I like a car that brakes right tho, and this one has too.

Car is a '90 320i cab.....in white. I know, don't grin, but I have to like this car, has to last a few years at least!
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 2:34 pm

Hey... I had a '90 320i in Sterling Silver with black leather. Nothing wrong with them... I loved it!
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Gt6s
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 3:21 pm

Geeman wrote:If the disc retaining screw rounds off then you've got a major problem with getting it out. I've had to drill out countless screws. A complete pain.

Apart from that... a complete doddle to do. :wink:
Yup ! Workshop manuals state remove screws.

YEAH RIGHT !
Should say, WITH A DRILL !!


Though sometimes a sharp chisel round the edge of screw head works.
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Z3I
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 3:33 pm

jeez..sounds like I'm going to have fun! Have I got it right? Attack screws first? Then amend weekend plans after?
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Gt6s
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Thu Jun 01, 2006 3:41 pm

Z3I wrote:jeez..sounds like I'm going to have fun! Have I got it right? Attack screws first? Then amend weekend plans after?
Not nessesarily, Screws might come out easy (Biting lip) or someone may have allready have removed / drilled and not refitted screws as wheel studs locate disc. Some car manufacturers rely on this anyway so no screws, NO PROBLEM.

Laurence
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Tue Jun 27, 2006 3:52 am

WRT the allen-headed disc screws, mine stripped the hex out when I tried an allen key on them. In desperation, I hammered a Torx bit into the hole and tried turning that. Whether it was the Torx or the hammering I don't know, but it did unscrew :)
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Tue Jun 27, 2006 4:23 am

if you have an impact driver the screws come out easy :thumb:
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Geoff
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Tue Jun 27, 2006 10:59 pm

Dont scare the man guys!! The locating screw isnt always as bad as they say, but that said just make sure you have EXACTLY the right allen key to undo the screw so you dont shere it off.

Then its all downhill really. Oh and give it a bit of a wallop so to try and shock it a bit.

Good luck.
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:37 pm

Geoff wrote:Dont scare the man guys!! The locating screw isnt always as bad as they say, but that said just make sure you have EXACTLY the right allen key to undo the screw so you dont shere it off.

Then its all downhill really. Oh and give it a bit of a wallop so to try and shock it a bit.

Good luck.
If the screw is well rounded, then take the caliper bracket off and give the disc a good smack with a lump hammer on the back side, diametrically opposite the screw. Job done.
E30Mark
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Tue Jun 27, 2006 11:44 pm

I must have been lucky yesterday, i had no problem at all undoing the screws! The handbrake shoes looked unused (Original parts i believe after 155K) but the inside of the discs were 100% knackered... i wondered why the handbrake was u/s... just hope it passes the MOT tomorrow, as the car will have done about 2 miles to bed in the new pads / discs...
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:26 am

Make sure you set up the handbrake properly. (Now and in the future). NOT by just tightening the cables at the handbrake.
E30Mark
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:31 am

Brianmoooore wrote:Make sure you set up the handbrake properly. (Now and in the future). NOT by just tightening the cables at the handbrake.
Good point! having good light and or a torch helps as you need to peer though the stud holes in the disc.
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Jay07
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:40 am

Sorry to distract the post but since you guys are on the hand brake may i just ask......

My hand break light has blown so recently ive found myself driving with the hand brake on!! But hardly notice it!! This shouldn't be able to happen should it?? Thought the hand brake locked the rear wheels up??
:?
E30Mark
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:46 am

Jay07 wrote:Sorry to distract the post but since you guys are on the hand brake may i just ask......

My hand break light has blown so recently ive found myself driving with the hand brake on!! But hardly notice it!! This shouldn't be able to happen should it?? Thought the hand brake locked the rear wheels up??
:?
Chances are the wire on the crude hand brake switch has fallen off... pull off the hand brake cowling and check to see if the wire is attached to it's mounting point...

The hand brake only locks up the rear wheels if pulled hard, if it's only up a notch or two then it's easy to drive the car without noticing, assuming your not driving a 316!
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Jay07
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 8:22 am

Chances are the wire on the crude hand brake switch has fallen off
Cheers Mark! I'll check that out today and post the result...
assuming your not driving a 316
Na mate im in a 3.20i... :)
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:15 am

If you have rear drums, the handbrake should be easily able to lock the rears. Handbrake on discs is not so effective, but should still be able to lock them.
Usual cause of poor handbrake with rear discs is some muppet adjusting cables rather than the mechanism.
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:19 am

E30Mark wrote: having good light and or a torch helps as you need to peer though the stud holes in the disc.
I have a small torch bulb soldered directly to a pair of wires which is small enough to feed in through a wheel bolt hole especially for the purpose.
oze30
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 11:38 am

Brianmoooore wrote:
E30Mark wrote: having good light and or a torch helps as you need to peer though the stud holes in the disc.
I have a small torch bulb soldered directly to a pair of wires which is small enough to feed in through a wheel bolt hole especially for the purpose.
I like that idea.. might have to borrow that one! Might use an LED though! winkeye
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 12:33 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
Geoff wrote:Dont scare the man guys!! The locating screw isnt always as bad as they say, but that said just make sure you have EXACTLY the right allen key to undo the screw so you dont shere it off.

Then its all downhill really. Oh and give it a bit of a wallop so to try and shock it a bit.

Good luck.
If the screw is well rounded, then take the caliper bracket off and give the disc a good smack with a lump hammer on the back side, diametrically opposite the screw. Job done.
I do the exact same and just brake the disk off the hub, then use a pair of moles to get the rest of it off.

But before you do that use the correct size of allen, get a second pair of hands, get the allen on a socket then onto a quarter inch breaker bar, put the allen in the locating bolt then hammer the back of the breaker and gently turn, works everytime! This is also good for getting the rear subframe bracket bolts which run along the bottom of the sill.

Andrew
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