Removing/Painting Calipers

[reddevil]

Hi ther, have put this in the technical section rather than the detail section as it applies to both. I was considering removing my wheels and painting the brake calipers on my 318Is sometime in the near future, have read the technical article in the articles section for converting the rear brakes and gained some tips (where to place the axle stands mainly), can anyone tell me (as a TOTAL novice) how I remove the calipers to paint them or should I just paint them while on the car?, also what paint's best?.

Cheers

Red D

[316eyes]

Much easier to do them if you can take 'em off and give 'em a good clean first and then degrease with thinners, but keep it well away from the seals etc.

Can't help with what the best paint is.

[Chris-W]

First thing you'll need is either a set of brake hose clamps or a way of holding the brake pedal down for the duration to prevent fluid loss.

Undo the two bolts securing the caliper (19mm) & then remove the flexi hose from calipers (14mm spanner) as you can now spin the caliper off the hose, if you see what I mean.

You can remove the pad carrier (7mm hex key) from the caliper and paint it in two separate pieces.

As regards paint, get 'Brake Caliper Paint'

[kidsinister]

This is my old iS isn't it (you bought from andymn)? I seem to remember painting the calipers using Halfrauds brake caliper paint (silver).

White spirit and an old toothbrush should get them clean, but perhaps a brush on paint would be better; I wasn't too impressed with the results of the spray on stuff, and it's a messy job spraying them.

Hope the old girl's still going strong!

[GDBN]

I used Hammerite on mine and a year later they still look fine.

Don't forget to bleed the brakes if you remove them.

G

[reddevil]

Thanks for the replies Guys. Yes Kidsinister, it's your old 318Is and yes she's still going strong though it's mot time next month so we shall see. Now reached 142000 on the clock and no real problems just lots of creaks and groans, but I guess if I was that age I'd be creaking and groaning. By the way Mate, do you know if the car has an alarm?, the sensors are there and the LED is fitted to the dash but doesn't seem to do anything?, plus the fact I need to buy a new ignition key since the old one is wearing down to the point where it won't take the steering lock off.

Red D

[Brianmoooore]

Now reached 142000 on the clock and no real problems just lots of creaks and groans,
I need to buy a new ignition key since the old one is wearing down to the point where it won't take the steering lock off.

Red D

Low mileage car like this shouldn't have any creaks and groans. Find 'em and fix 'em! My wife's 250.000 mile touring is rattle free.

Get a new ket from the dealer. OE keys are steel, not soft brass like aftermarket ones.

[reddevil]

Any idea how much they charge for a new key Brian?, I think most of the rattles and squeeks come from the seats, my 15 stone frame being thrown about has unsettled something inside.

Red D

[kidsinister]

By the way Mate, do you know if the car has an alarm?, the sensors are there and the LED is fitted to the dash but doesn't seem to do anything?, plus the fact I need to buy a new ignition key since the old one is wearing down to the point where it won't take the steering lock off.

Red D

Ther was an alarm, but there was no "plipper" for it; it was aftermarket, badly wired in and non-functioning, so I ripped it all out - the sensors and the LED wires, if you trace them, lead... nowhere!

[reddevil]

Ther was an alarm, but there was no "plipper" for it; it was aftermarket, badly wired in and non-functioning, so I ripped it all out - the sensors and the LED wires, if you trace them, lead... nowhere!

Ah right, thought that might be the case, oh well, the old girl will have to go un-alarmed for now. Thanks for the advice guys.

Just spoken to a dealer and they're going to charge £20+VAT for a new ignition key, not too bad.

Red D