Auto to manual - non starter

[cecotto147]

Just converted car from auto to manual, not too bad a job but, go to turn the car over today and no starter motor.
All lights etc, no starter.
This i assume is down to the fact that car needs to be in neutral or park - does any one know which wire i need to play with to overcome this?
I presume it just needs to earth out somewhere or disconnect it from somewhere - anyone shed any light on where or which.
Thanks

[john325tewerin]

I don't know the answer to your query I'm afriad but I want to do this conversion. Any advice would be gratefully received.
Thanks.

[jonbuoy]

Does the engine turn over?
Have you changed the ECU? (I had to change the ECU as i was told the ECU has setting's for an auto box.)

I've just done this conversion and there is no wire to "play" with.
Make sure the engine is earthed out and the connection's to the starter motor are actually connected, should'nt be any problem's

HTH

[cecotto147]

Ahh, ECU, haven't changed that, will try that.
Thanks

john325tewerin - Conversion very straightforward in my opinion, will need pedal box, ecu, gearbox, slave cylinder and pipework to pedal box that runs accross bulkhead, clutch, flywheel and spiggottt bearing for the crank - £5-00 from BMW -
To change - unbolt and remove propshaft, unbolt all the pipes for the oil cooler which is built into the rad for the box
Unbolt old box - take the lower plate off the bottom of the box first, undo the torque convertor bolts which you will be able to see, and lever the torque convertor back with the gearbox - can do it separatley except is messier as a lot of oil will come out.
Remove old box and torque convertor.
Insert spiggott bearing into crank - find a socket of similar proportions and drive in so is slightly below level of crank end, insert all the necessary washers after - still available from BMW, about 3 quid.
Bolt on new flywheel and clutch - align clutch to new box before you tighten it up completely. Tghten all up.
Bolt up new manual box - will need to move the bolts in the sliders on the chassis to the front rails form the back rails. Bolt on slave cylinder and propshaft.
Take out old pedl box, insert new. Run pipe for clutch along bulkhead and join to the slave cylinder.
Will need to make up a bracket for the clutch fluid reservoir as not there on auto models. - fits nicely on battery tray.
Bleed the clutch, change the ecu over, put trim back in centre console etc and all done.
Half a days work.

[john325tewerin]

Thanks for that.
Doesn't sound as bad as I thought it could be.
I just need to source myself the parts and get stuck in. I did think about getting a "spares or repair" type e30 to use a donor. Either that or a visit to my scrappy.
Where did you get your bits from?

[cecotto147]

pedal box from a 318 which donated its slave cylinder and pipework, the gearbox and propr came from donor car as will the ecu.
You could pick up the piesces you need from the zone for not a lot, gearbox and prop etc, or ebay if you didnt want to do the strip the whole car thing

[jonbuoy]

Thanks for that.
Doesn't sound as bad as I thought it could be.
I just need to source myself the parts and get stuck in. I did think about getting a "spares or repair" type e30 to use a donor. Either that or a visit to my scrappy.
Where did you get your bits from?

Would be alot easier to get a donor and alot cheaper!
And less time consuming.

[Brianmoooore]

Back to the no starter motor problem.
Look at the wiring loom that crosses above the blovebox and you will find two black single pin connectors with black/yellow wires. Unplug both these connectors and you will find that the two connectors that are part of the main loom will then plug together, removing the starter inhibitor.
The small wiring loom and relay connected to the now redundant other connectors can be removed.

[jonbuoy]

Back to the no starter motor problem.
Look at the wiring loom that crosses above the blovebox and you will find two black single pin connectors with black/yellow wires. Unplug both these connectors and you will find that the two connectors that are part of the main loom will then plug together, removing the starter inhibitor.
The small wiring loom and relay connected to the now redundant other connectors can be removed.

That's a fair point as my car did'nt start life as an auto, i just changed the boxes on an M20 before i chucked the engine in but you still have to change the ECU.............i think. Brian?

[Brianmoooore]

There are differences in the ECU, but it's not essential to change it.

[john325tewerin]

Well, I'm on my way. Have bought the gearbox, a 60k'er apparently but miles away from me! Just need all the other stuff now which I may have sourced locally. A quick question...
....what do you do with the auto radiator? Swop it for a manual or just plug up the holes with something?

[Brianmoooore]

....what do you do with the auto radiator? Swop it for a manual or just plug up the holes with something?

Auto rad is fine. Nothing will come out of the holes if you just leave them.

[john325tewerin]

Will have everything to do the conversion this weekend. Cecotto, did you go with Brian's wiring tip or just replace the ECU in the end?

Looking forward to removing the old slusher!

[Brianmoooore]

You can replace the ECU if you want to, but it's still not going to start unless you disconnect the starter inhibitor circuit as I say.

[john325tewerin]

Oh right
Sorry Brian, misunderstood.
So no real need to get the manual's ECU then?
Saves a tenner!