Touring vs sedan fuse box
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oze30
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Are there any differences.. if so.. where do the extra plugs go?
I think my touring has a sedan fuse box ( Smaller) hence no working electrics in the rear of the car ( Wash/Wipe) Not sure about the heated screen yet either.
If it is different, can I just buy a touring fuse box and put it in place.. and have everything work? or are the end of the wash/wipe plug sitting somewhere in the body?
How do you remove the fuse box?
Can anyone help?
I think my touring has a sedan fuse box ( Smaller) hence no working electrics in the rear of the car ( Wash/Wipe) Not sure about the heated screen yet either.
If it is different, can I just buy a touring fuse box and put it in place.. and have everything work? or are the end of the wash/wipe plug sitting somewhere in the body?
How do you remove the fuse box?
Can anyone help?
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Brianmoooore
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Firstly, saloon please! not sedan.
Fuse boxes for saloon and touring are the same. Rear wash/wipe is fuse 26, which isn't used on saloons.
The fuse box is an integral part of the main wiring loom. It is possible to change it, but it's not a job I would fancy undertaking.
Fuse boxes for saloon and touring are the same. Rear wash/wipe is fuse 26, which isn't used on saloons.
The fuse box is an integral part of the main wiring loom. It is possible to change it, but it's not a job I would fancy undertaking.
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oze30
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cheers..
and sorry.. saloon!
Is there a difference between early and late? All the tourings ive seen have a huge-ish fuse box with heaps of relays. The one Ive got is squarish as opposed to oblong
and sorry.. saloon!
Is there a difference between early and late? All the tourings ive seen have a huge-ish fuse box with heaps of relays. The one Ive got is squarish as opposed to oblong
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Brianmoooore
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AFAIK all E30 fuseboxes have been the same since 1983. Definitely all facelift E30s should have the same fusebox, and all tourings are facelift.
If you have a different box, then I've no idea how or what!
Can you post photos?
If you have a different box, then I've no idea how or what!
Can you post photos?
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oze30
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I'll try to get pics.
It was once a 316 then changed to 325.
Engine was lifted out of an H reg.. though it's of early type ( sensors on the bellhousing front, can be seen from engine bay.)
It was once a 316 then changed to 325.
Engine was lifted out of an H reg.. though it's of early type ( sensors on the bellhousing front, can be seen from engine bay.)
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ad318i
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the cover on my tourings fusebox was cracked, so i nicked the one off my touring and it fitted perfectly, also looked at each one they are the same
1989 Alpine White 318i 4 Door - Got Scrapped When I Was Abroad
1993 Metallic Green 316i Touring - Im Selling it before i move back to Greece, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0239342139
1993 Metallic Green 316i Touring - Im Selling it before i move back to Greece, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0239342139
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Brianmoooore
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Think we do need some pis! No engine from an H reg should hane sensors on the bell housing.oze30 wrote:I'll try to get pics.
It was once a 316 then changed to 325.
Engine was lifted out of an H reg.. though it's of early type ( sensors on the bellhousing front, can be seen from engine bay.)
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oze30
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thats what I said.. but I think the h reg had a transplant!
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oze30
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the fuse that blew the first time.. didn't blow when replaced.. (18 I think? parking lights) but now the sunroof doesnt work. Does the relay need to be bolted on? as last time i did this, the sunroof blew the fuse
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oze30
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Right
Update.
Battery keeps draining since i put the elec roof in.
NOW.. the lights go on when you turn the key to the off position.. and push the light switch in.. and off when you pull it out. BUT.. the inside lights (dash/heater) do as they're sposed to.. ie: off when in, on when out. Just the parking/main lights dont. this is fine when driving I think.. but i pulled the fuse and the lights do as they sposed to.
Now unplugged the sunroof and everything that i connected before all this happened... and guess what.. It's still happening. Ive just pulled the fuse totally to drive and hopefully not drain the battery!
I think this car is worse than first thought!!
Can anyone help??
Update.
Battery keeps draining since i put the elec roof in.
NOW.. the lights go on when you turn the key to the off position.. and push the light switch in.. and off when you pull it out. BUT.. the inside lights (dash/heater) do as they're sposed to.. ie: off when in, on when out. Just the parking/main lights dont. this is fine when driving I think.. but i pulled the fuse and the lights do as they sposed to.
Now unplugged the sunroof and everything that i connected before all this happened... and guess what.. It's still happening. Ive just pulled the fuse totally to drive and hopefully not drain the battery!
I think this car is worse than first thought!!
Can anyone help??
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Brianmoooore
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I doubt it, from here! We haven't worked out what you've got for a fusebox yet.oze30 wrote: Can anyone help??
Most instances of interaction between different circuits is caused by bad earths, but I'm not at all convinced that is your problem.
Where do you have the electric roof connected?
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oze30
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to the plug thats left.. single pole plug.. but there's no plug for the maplight either.
But I've disconnected all the electrics I plugged in.. and it still happens
oh and the fuse box has one row of fuses, then 2 of relays, then another row of fuses then 1 row of relays. I'm sure they sposed to have 2 rows
But I've disconnected all the electrics I plugged in.. and it still happens
oh and the fuse box has one row of fuses, then 2 of relays, then another row of fuses then 1 row of relays. I'm sure they sposed to have 2 rows
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Brianmoooore
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To the plug that's left where? E30 fusebox has fuses down each side and a whole bunch of relays in the middle. Don't know what you've got!oze30 wrote:to the plug thats left..
oh and the fuse box has one row of fuses, then 2 of relays, then another row of fuses then 1 row of relays. I'm sure they sposed to have 2 rows
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oze30
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I'll take a pic tomorrow.
It's the only plug that would fit the sunroof plug.. behind the glovebox.. where the 2 big white terminals are.
It's the only plug that would fit the sunroof plug.. behind the glovebox.. where the 2 big white terminals are.
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Brianmoooore
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That should be 2nd from the right, 3rd down.oze30 wrote:I'll take a pic tomorrow.
It's the only plug that would fit the sunroof plug.. behind the glovebox.. where the 2 big white terminals are.
Should only be live with ignition switch on, which doesn't fit with your battery drain problem
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oze30
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neither does the wiper and indicators working with teh key out! I think I need a new car!Brianmoooore wrote:That should be 2nd from the right, 3rd down.oze30 wrote:I'll take a pic tomorrow.
It's the only plug that would fit the sunroof plug.. behind the glovebox.. where the 2 big white terminals are.
Should only be live with ignition switch on, which doesn't fit with your battery drain problem
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ad318i
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think we need a pic of this fusebox first!
1989 Alpine White 318i 4 Door - Got Scrapped When I Was Abroad
1993 Metallic Green 316i Touring - Im Selling it before i move back to Greece, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0239342139
1993 Metallic Green 316i Touring - Im Selling it before i move back to Greece, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0239342139
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oze30
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Fuse box in question. The red wire is fused then runs into a terminal on the relay. Any ideas??

You can see the plug halves.. on the left of screen, the plug from the sunroof. the RHS.. is the fusebox loom

Whats happening here.. I don't know.. but I havent touched this stuff!

The rest of the white plugs.. is anything missing here?? I noticed that my wash/wipe switch doesnt light up. guess I should check to see if it is plugged in eh!?
I hope these work.. cheers.
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Brianmoooore
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This is an ordinary E30 fusebox.
I've no idea what the red wire is for, other than it shouldn't be there.
Do you have aircon on this car, as relays K1 and K6 are fitted, and these are both for the electric aux radiator fan?
There is no front foglight relay (K8) but the front foglight fuses (29 and 30 are both present.
Fuses 3,9 (auto only),16, 18 and 25 are not normaly fitted.
IMPORTANT: Fuse 11 is 15A. Change to 7.5A
Photo 3: The red tape probably covers connections to an alarm system. If the wires are blue/red and blue/black, then this is the correct place to connect an alarm to flash the indicators. There is also evidence of something extra (blue) connected near the green wires of the white two pin immobiliser plug and socket.
Photo 4: The rear wash/wipe doesn't feed from this socket. It is fed directly from fuse 26 of the fusebox, which appears to be fitted.
The roof and windows should be fed by the white/black wire plugged into the accessories socket. This pin is fed by fuse 17, and should only be live with the ignition on, and is switched by relay K5.
In UK spec cars, the white/black wire should go to a relay to the left of the accessories socket, along with a feed from one of the red or red/orange wires from the top left pin of the socket. This relay is switched by a second set of contacts on the front door switches, and the windows/roof are actually fed from term 30 of this relay.
Only obvious thing missing from this socket is the four pin radio plug.
I've no idea what the red wire is for, other than it shouldn't be there.
Do you have aircon on this car, as relays K1 and K6 are fitted, and these are both for the electric aux radiator fan?
There is no front foglight relay (K8) but the front foglight fuses (29 and 30 are both present.
Fuses 3,9 (auto only),16, 18 and 25 are not normaly fitted.
IMPORTANT: Fuse 11 is 15A. Change to 7.5A
Photo 3: The red tape probably covers connections to an alarm system. If the wires are blue/red and blue/black, then this is the correct place to connect an alarm to flash the indicators. There is also evidence of something extra (blue) connected near the green wires of the white two pin immobiliser plug and socket.
Photo 4: The rear wash/wipe doesn't feed from this socket. It is fed directly from fuse 26 of the fusebox, which appears to be fitted.
The roof and windows should be fed by the white/black wire plugged into the accessories socket. This pin is fed by fuse 17, and should only be live with the ignition on, and is switched by relay K5.
In UK spec cars, the white/black wire should go to a relay to the left of the accessories socket, along with a feed from one of the red or red/orange wires from the top left pin of the socket. This relay is switched by a second set of contacts on the front door switches, and the windows/roof are actually fed from term 30 of this relay.
Only obvious thing missing from this socket is the four pin radio plug.
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oze30
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double post
Last edited by oze30 on Wed May 24, 2006 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
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oze30
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Brianmoooore wrote:This is an ordinary E30 fusebox.
I've no idea what the red wire is for, other than it shouldn't be there.
Do you have aircon on this car, as relays K1 and K6 are fitted, and these are both for the electric aux radiator fan?
There is no front foglight relay (K8) but the front foglight fuses (29 and 30 are both present.
Fuses 3,9 (auto only),16, 18 and 25 are not normaly fitted.
IMPORTANT: Fuse 11 is 15A. Change to 7.5A
Which is the foglight relay? The empty space?
Should I remove the aircon relays? if so.. which ones are they?
No aircon
The blue you are talking about.. is it the loose wire that goes accross the top right ? thats just a bodge wire job from the maplight mirror.. no red wire.. so 2 diff guage blue wire.Brianmoooore wrote:Photo 3: The red tape probably covers connections to an alarm system. If the wires are blue/red and blue/black, then this is the correct place to connect an alarm to flash the indicators. There is also evidence of something extra (blue) connected near the green wires of the white two pin immobiliser plug and socket.
Brianmoooore wrote:Photo 4: The rear wash/wipe doesn't feed from this socket. It is fed directly from fuse 26 of the fusebox, which appears to be fitted.
The roof and windows should be fed by the white/black wire plugged into the accessories socket. This pin is fed by fuse 17, and should only be live with the ignition on, and is switched by relay K5.
In UK spec cars, the white/black wire should go to a relay to the left of the accessories socket, along with a feed from one of the red or red/orange wires from the top left pin of the socket. This relay is switched by a second set of contacts on the front door switches, and the windows/roof are actually fed from term 30 of this relay.
Only obvious thing missing from this socket is the four pin radio plug.
Which is the accessory socket?
This would be so much easier if i wasnt colour blind!!!
Where does the 4 pin radio go?
Where would they have got the feed from instead?
Could this be why my vindicators/wash wipe work with no key?
Thanks Brian.. I'll try to sort of this birds nest out!!
Last edited by oze30 on Wed May 24, 2006 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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jonb
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col
please burn this car. get rid.
please burn this car. get rid.
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oze30
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I would if i had enough cash to buy another one. I need a car.. and I can't afford to get another one. My contract runs out in july.. so need to get it going till then
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oze30
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Update
Ive pulled the radio out.. trying to work out whats draining the battery. next to go is the clock.. But still the battery went dead.. How to find out if alternator is working properly or not?
How hard is it to replace the loom that has the hazard and demist switch? It's got a sedan loom.. not a touring loom.
Ive pulled the radio out.. trying to work out whats draining the battery. next to go is the clock.. But still the battery went dead.. How to find out if alternator is working properly or not?
How hard is it to replace the loom that has the hazard and demist switch? It's got a sedan loom.. not a touring loom.
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oze30
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Right,
The red wire was the earth for the Windows relay.
I've disconnected the battery now.. as it was lasting about 3 hours before going flat. Hopefully this will cancel out some options!
The red wire was the earth for the Windows relay.
I've disconnected the battery now.. as it was lasting about 3 hours before going flat. Hopefully this will cancel out some options!
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Brianmoooore
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Which window relay? The one in the corner of the glove box, or relay K5?( Neither of which should have an earth - especially a red one, which should be 12V+, unfused.)oze30 wrote:Right,
The red wire was the earth for the Windows relay.
!
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Brianmoooore
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Is this why your rear/wash wipe doesn't work? Hasn't occured to me before, but the rear wash/wipe wires are probably in this loom, and wouldn't be present in a SALOON loom.oze30 wrote: How hard is it to replace the loom that has the hazard and demist switch? It's got a sedan loom.. not a touring loom.
Easy loom to change. Just a few clips/cable ties along behind the dash.
Pull the locking
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Brianmoooore
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To check for battery drain:
First open a window. Some alarm locking systems are activated by messing around with the battery, and you may activate an alarm that you don't even know you have.
Loosen the negative terminal of the battery, switch a multimeter to its highest current range (if not auto ranging), connect the black lead to a good body earth, and hold the red probe vertically down onto the NEGATIVE pole of the battery.
Lift the battery connector vertically upwards around the probe, and read the meter. Anything between about 20mA to 80mA is normal. Anything above this needs investigation.
Replace the terminal, and remove a few fuses. Lift the terminal again, and see if the current has changed.
When you've checked all these, try removing the two smaller wires connected to the positive battery terminal. Any current drain now remaining is probably a duff altenator.
First open a window. Some alarm locking systems are activated by messing around with the battery, and you may activate an alarm that you don't even know you have.
Loosen the negative terminal of the battery, switch a multimeter to its highest current range (if not auto ranging), connect the black lead to a good body earth, and hold the red probe vertically down onto the NEGATIVE pole of the battery.
Lift the battery connector vertically upwards around the probe, and read the meter. Anything between about 20mA to 80mA is normal. Anything above this needs investigation.
Replace the terminal, and remove a few fuses. Lift the terminal again, and see if the current has changed.
When you've checked all these, try removing the two smaller wires connected to the positive battery terminal. Any current drain now remaining is probably a duff altenator.
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oze30
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I dunno.. But I pulled the wire off.. and the elec windows wouldn't work. Put the wire back.. and it did. Not sure what terminal.. but it's the closest to the LHS of the car.. or furthest away from the engine, running parralell to the centre line of the car.Brianmoooore wrote:Is this why your rear/wash wipe doesn't work? Hasn't occured to me before, but the rear wash/wipe wires are probably in this loom, and wouldn't be present in a SALOON loom.oze30 wrote: How hard is it to replace the loom that has the hazard and demist switch? It's got a sedan loom.. not a touring loom.
Easy loom to change. Just a few clips/cable ties along behind the dash.
Pull the locking
I'm going to try and source a multimeter to work out wtf is going on.
Cheers again brian..
(I'll try to remember saloon opposed to sedan. Whats the diff anyway?? Sedan, Coupe, touring/estate/wagon??)
