Really scratching my head now.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 12:41 pm

Got a intermitant problem where the car just dies from idle.
Have tried :- Sevral idel control valves.
Ecu, Pick up's are new any way,
hooked up to diag and nothing.
not under/over fueling.
not starving of air. vacum pipe ok,
compression ok, changed fuel pump,
changed coil,
cap and leads ect are newish and wouldn do that anyway,
afm newish but working fine.
TB newish but i just cleaned it any way..
definitley no air leaks.
Help..

Post Wed May 24, 2006 2:15 pm

Damn that what happened to me yesterday and found out my AFM had packed up but you mention yours is in good working order.

Sorry i cannot really help but i posted a thread up yesterday,it was titled 'Help my car just went dead' maybe check it out for any useful info???

Hope you get it sorted bud.

Giggz.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 2:17 pm

Mark,

does the car drive?

Post Wed May 24, 2006 2:31 pm

DME relay Marc ?

Post Wed May 24, 2006 3:05 pm

as ant said my friend sounds like dme

Post Wed May 24, 2006 3:29 pm

No not dme, just tried one.
Dose drive. extremely well now it's all been cleaned or changed.
made 4 journeys and fine.
started it to let sal out put it back left it to idle and it died. started and it's fine again.
fuel pressure is 3.4 constant.
1.74 co's
189 hc's
1260 o2

perfect
no flat spots and strong from any rev range.no pinking.
alt is pushin 14.3 volts. afm 5ohms. air filter is dry and clean.
Checked all earth points.
Nelly drove it yesterday and it did it to him once then it was fine.

AAAAAHHHHHHH

Post Wed May 24, 2006 3:33 pm

14.3 volts sounds high to me i thought it was meant to 13.6-14.2?

this sounds stupid, but the oil system is under pressure isnt it, i mean there isnt a split breather hose? and the cap is definatly on tight and sealed? this can cause a car to die

Post Wed May 24, 2006 3:38 pm

318-is wrote:14.3 volts sounds high to me i thought it was meant to 13.6-14.2?

this sounds stupid, but the oil system is under pressure isn't it, i mean there is a split breather hose? and the cap is definitely on tight and sealed? this can cause a car to die

no, New pipes and all tight.
This is an intermittent problem.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 3:39 pm

zaust wrote: This is an intermittent problem.

Aren't they just bastards!!!

if its intermittent then i would suggest some sort of sensor, possibly get it on the diagnosis mate?

other than that im all out buddy!

Post Wed May 24, 2006 3:47 pm

If the bastard just died altogether it would be a lot lot easier..

going out for another thrash.................

Post Wed May 24, 2006 4:02 pm

Just a stab in the dark but have you tried a different coil and dizzy cap as a track on either could do this ?
Not suggesting you buy unnessesary items, see if you can borrow to try.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 5:15 pm

they are relatively new and i have had a look and they are fine.
but they would normally cause misfire or flat spots anyway.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 6:45 pm

Just looked all the way down through the thread, and can't see the TPS mentioned, which I would have thought was one of the first things to check.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 7:03 pm

yes this is half the reason my alpina is not running right because the TPS is knackered

Post Wed May 24, 2006 7:08 pm

If you mean throttle position switch. Then this was the first thing i checked guy's, I'm now going off some other advice and checking the fueling looms for a loose something.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 7:20 pm

zaust wrote:If you mean throttle position switch. Then this was the first thing i checked guy's,

Checked how? It's an intermittant fault, so the only effective way of checking it is to swap it with a known good one, and see a) if the fault is cured on your car, and b) the fault is transfered to the donor car.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 11:00 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
zaust wrote:If you mean throttle position switch. Then this was the first thing i checked guy's,
Checked how? It's an intermittent fault, so the only effective way of checking it is to swap it with a known good one, and see a) if the fault is cured on your car, and b) the fault is transferred to the donor car.

Fella thats what i did. I tried 2 as the first one had been sitting on my shelf for a few years.. now got the first one back on.

im gona check the pulse to the iscv as i keep getting drawn to that as the problem. then check ecu x 3 for dry joints.

any other ideas will be appreciated

Post Wed May 24, 2006 11:22 pm

Yuu need to establish whether this is an engine fault or an idle control valve circuit fault. How about removing the ICV, plugging its holes, and adjusting the throttle stop to give a reasionable idle speed. Try the car like this and see if it behaves itself.

Post Sun May 28, 2006 7:30 am

now i thought it was fine and sorthed until got home and parked. she died again. then started and fine....?????

Post Mon May 29, 2006 3:32 pm

Put an extra earth lead on mark, even if it's just from some wiring for an amp, i know that probably so bodgy but it's easier to locate a point to attach the wire. This happened on my M40 (Now M20

) until the earth strap gave out completely

This may not work mate but it's an easy thing to try