HELP!!! Car just went dead?!!? sorted!!!

Post Tue May 23, 2006 11:17 am

Hope someone can help here please.
Right,heres what happened. Yesterday evening me and my bro put in the ITG induction(in the pouring rain but kept an umbrella over the engine bay). Went in ok...we think anyway. Started the car up this morning and as usual she was on the button ticking over nicely. On my way to work now and approaching traffic lights, so i slow down into 3rd and then there it just stuttered finding it difficult to keep a constant idle an then it just went dead. Tried starting her up again,she fires,stutters and then dead again??!!

Got a tow home now and thought i would check out spark plugs for some reason.Took out number one and the HT lead was covered in oil as was the spark plug.Could this have anything to do with the problem?

Thanks in advance.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 11:24 am

Sorry,its a 325is by te way guys.

Thanks.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 1:54 pm

still hoping someone can shed some light on this please?

Post Tue May 23, 2006 2:03 pm

Have you tried the multi pin connector located on passenger side of engine below inlet manifold ?? Make sure its properly connected.

This carries the leccy for the injectors and your problem sounds just like what happened to mine.

Iain

Post Tue May 23, 2006 2:08 pm

Is this the one with the round top? Sorry for the stupid questions,but i did nudge a box like thing more closer to the coolant bottle that had loads of wires coming out the bottom of it and it was more a square shape.

Thanks!

Post Tue May 23, 2006 2:09 pm

Also, check the cable and plug that goes onto the air flow meter.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 2:41 pm

Steviec wrote:Also, check the cable and plug that goes onto the air flow meter.

I have checked that...taken it out and gave it a quick clean.

Has it got anything to do with the introduction of the induction kit? AFM readings going loopy maybe? Just taking a stab in the dark here.

Cheers mate.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 3:25 pm

Putting an induction kit on shouldnt cause you any troubles, when I put my K&N on, I just bolted it on and off I went.

Have you checked the pipe linking the AFM to the throttle body? Check that it is connected properly and that there are no splits. I had loads of trouble with my first E30 and it turned out to be that part.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 3:50 pm

i think but I may be wrong, the box of relays etc near the AFM are for the ABS. As said, well worth checking the rubber boot from the AFM to the throttle body incase your moving about has caused a split. Also just worth a cursory check of the plumbing & wiring in that area incase anything has been disrupted, take out and clean the idle control valve with some carb cleaner.

The oil on plug 1 is probably just an old leak as M20's often have an oil leak at that front corner of the head-gasket, it is a known weak spot but nothing for concern unless it is really glugging out.

Hopefully something of use in there.

Sounds daft, but check the obvious things like battery terminals are tight and that earth leads are OK etc.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 4:07 pm

E30BeemerLad wrote:i think but I may be wrong, the box of relays etc near the AFM are for the ABS. As said, well worth checking the rubber boot from the AFM to the throttle body incase your moving about has caused a split. Also just worth a cursory check of the plumbing & wiring in that area incase anything has been disrupted, take out and clean the idle control valve with some carb cleaner.

The oil on plug 1 is probably just an old leak as M20's often have an oil leak at that front corner of the head-gasket, it is a known weak spot but nothing for concern unless it is really glugging out.

Hopefully something of use in there.

Sounds daft, but check the obvious things like battery terminals are tight and that earth leads are OK etc.

I have had a look around the pipe coming from throttle body to AFM and all seems fine.No splits or air leaks. I shall take out ICV and give it clean as you said.Glad to hear that it quite common for plug one to leak although it is very worrying that it does in the first place!!! None of the others had oil on them. Will have a gander around the battery to see all terminals are on proper

Thanks alot guys appreciate the help.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 4:19 pm

Giggz wrote:Is this the one with the round top? Sorry for the stupid questions,but i did nudge a box like thing more closer to the coolant bottle that had loads of wires coming out the bottom of it and it was more a square shape.

Thanks!

Yes the one with the round top.

All the other advice is good and worth checking but I am betting on this round plug. Your symptoms were identical to mine. However, follow all the advice and I am sure you will get sorted.

Iain

Post Tue May 23, 2006 5:47 pm

Ok so my bro comes home and we take another look under the bonnet. We take the cap off the AFM and he held it open while i started her up and hey presto she was idling as normal...but then he let it go and sputter,stutter she just died on me again!

Would you say i need a new AFM?

Cheers.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 5:53 pm

mate also check the fuel pump relay, you can check by using a jump wire to bridge the terminals I think 37 and 81? someone will have to be more accurate than me????? anyone??

Post Tue May 23, 2006 6:13 pm

Giggz,

If its an AFM you need then let me know.

I see you are in Ilford, my old home town, if you support the Hammers you can have a 25% discount lol !!!!!

Iain

Post Tue May 23, 2006 6:43 pm

[quote="HartgeH27"]Giggz,

If its an AFM you need then let me know.

I see you are in Ilford, my old home town, if you support the Hammers you can have a 25% discount lol !!!!!

Iain[/quot

thank u very much for the offer sir but sal is gonna drop 1 off 2 me today. We shal see how it goes from ther.

up da hammers!!

Post Tue May 23, 2006 8:53 pm

Squarish box near the coolant bottle is a cover over two very important relays - the main DME (ECU) relay (white), and the fuel pump relay (probably orange). Check these out.
The engine should start and idle normaly with the AFM disconnected and removed from the car.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 9:18 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:Squarish box near the coolant bottle is a cover over two very important relays - the main DME (ECU) relay (white), and the fuel pump relay (probably orange). Check these out.
The engine should start and idle normaly with the AFM disconnected and removed from the car.

Ok,but you have a third slot that is empty in my car. What is supposed to go there?

Actually theres one thing i have not tried all day and thats running the car with the AFM disconnected!

Thanks Brian.

Post Tue May 23, 2006 11:35 pm

Third relay socket is for the heater relay for a lambda sensor.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 1:23 am

It was the AFM.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 10:50 am

sorry to jack this thread, but what if the car stalls when you disconnect the AFM? does that mean its faulty?

Post Wed May 24, 2006 1:39 pm

Engine should start and idle happily with the AFM unplugged and removed.

Post Wed May 24, 2006 1:54 pm

Big thanks to Sal for dropping off AND fitting new AFM for me!!! And for waking up the neighbours with that lovely motor of yours!

Started her up today and idle was very irratic and stalled a couple of times but after a while it got back to normal except the dials are jumping all over the place???!!

Post Wed May 24, 2006 1:57 pm

H-M3 wrote:sorry to jack this thread, but what if the car stalls when you disconnect the AFM? does that mean its faulty?

Im not sure if AFM is to blame straight away for stalling,but by what i went through its certainly a good place to start investigating. Bunged up idle valve and air leaks are common culprits.