Andy, I've noticed some concerns here with using the Uni-chip. The Uni-chip works extremely well WITH or WITHOUT the lambda probe. I have fitted shite loads and never had a problem, ever.
If you want to keep the lambda sensor, then you should leave it connected and working as Bosch designed it to [EDIT: with the cat still in place]. The Unichip can be mapped fully with it connected on Full Throttle, as the ECU ignores any input from the Lambda sensor in this state. On part throttles, only the timing should be mapped as whatever you tune [EDIT: the fueling] on the Unichip, or any other for that matter, the ECU will see a rich or lean signal from the lambda sensor and alter the injector opening periods to suit [EDIT: its preset maps and values]. I understand there are some systems which ensures the ECU only sees a given signal and you are able to map around that, but it will be the same signal as disconnecting the lambda probe altogether. With the lambda probe disconnected the ECU will log a fault, granted, but allows the engine to be ran safely as long as it has this probe disconnected. It certainly does not effect any performance to the engine.
As your car is an H registration it does not require a catalyst for MOT's. Running a car without a catalyst and fueling being controled by a lambda probe designed to be run with a catalyst installed creates problems in itself. With the cat removed, the exhaust gasses flow past the lambda probe much quicker than normal, so the probe cannot sense the gasses as good as before [EDIT: or as the probe was calibrated to the ECU from the factory], so the fueling will be out in this state too. Keeping the lambda probe connected and just "bagged up" under the bonnet can also be dangerous to the engine too.
Your car was running extremely rich. For Optimum performance you should run 12.8:1 - 13.2:1. This I have seen to work many, many times on the dyno while mapping. Some cars optimum can be 13.6-13.8:1.
Your exhaust was blowing badly too, and I suspect that the 10.9:1 we were seeing would have been richer than that in reality. FYI 30.7:1 is the leanest the machine reads. That was probably with the engine stopped or on over-run, although I did see 30.7:1 a couple of times while it was idling showing how bad the exhaust was blowing.
I suggested Andy speak to Jayson from Chipped UK as he may have a chip which would sort his fuel problems out CHEAPLY. But, as has been said, the injectors could be too large, and the fuel pressure could be too high??? If he wanted to keep that set up, the Unichip can more than cope with the fueling side of things. If he wanted to Turbo it in the future, then the injectors and fuel pressure it has at the moment would come into play, all that would be needed is a turbo module (MAP sensor) and a re-map of the Unichip - simple.
What I will say about the Dastek stuff....Unlike some other set ups and systems, they actually do as it says on the tin. No messing. And works pretty much with anything you throw at it. Unfortunately, but probably the best way, you have to rely on a dyno operator at a Unichip dealer to map it properly, you cannot plug and play yourself. Most of the time - its a good thing. (whether that mapper is the best person at mapping who knows?)
One last thing, I was suprised at the power made by Andy's car. To be as pair as possible, because of the diff he had fitted in the car, I decided to run it in 5th. This on normal geared cars would show less power at the wheels. So the 160 bhp at the wheels is what to look at. We assumed a loss of 20% (same as my M3 on Dasteks dyno in 4th) and came out with that 200 bhp.
I will speak to you over the weekend at some stage Andy about your car and some pics of mine

The Unichip will work extremely well on your car as it is. But if you want to change anything like your exhaust manifold, induction, cams, injectors, fuel pressure, etc, etc, please do it before we map it!
Cheers,
Paul.