325i problem need help!!!!!!
Moderator: martauto
-
salamy
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2005 11:00 pm
some times it starts up perfect but some times i need to keep the key turned for a good 15 secounds for it to start up and it idles at 1100 and then drops down after awhile seems like its going to cut out on me i have to give it some gas to clear it .when i try moving it seems like its going to cut out it drives really lumpy but some times it fine

-
FlappySocks
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 860
- Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Fareham, Hampshire
Check your blue temperature sensor. Always the first thing to check. Search the forums about it. Cheap and easy to replace.
Stuart
Stuart
-
E30BeemerLad
- Married to the E30 Zone

- Posts: 16806
- Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Norfolk
Do you know when the car last had a service and when the plugs may have been changed?
Also have a look at the distributor cap and rotor arm and replace if they look minging inside, look for crustyness on the end of the rotor arm and signs that it has been arcing inside the cap, a clean up with some wet & dry paper can cure this as a temporary bodge.
Also look at the idle control valve and perhaps take it out and give it a good blast with carb cleaner.
I think the 6 pot can quite often need a bit or turning once it's been on a run and is hot, not sure if the fuel evaporates in the line at all.
Fuel filter could also be a bit manc if the car has been neglected on the service front for years.
couple of things to be looking at anyway
Also have a look at the distributor cap and rotor arm and replace if they look minging inside, look for crustyness on the end of the rotor arm and signs that it has been arcing inside the cap, a clean up with some wet & dry paper can cure this as a temporary bodge.
Also look at the idle control valve and perhaps take it out and give it a good blast with carb cleaner.
I think the 6 pot can quite often need a bit or turning once it's been on a run and is hot, not sure if the fuel evaporates in the line at all.
Fuel filter could also be a bit manc if the car has been neglected on the service front for years.
couple of things to be looking at anyway
-
salamy
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2005 11:00 pm
guys my car before was cutting out when trying to move so i changed the idle control valve. i bought a secound hand one of ebay this was a few weeks ago, the problem wasnt there for the first week but now its getting worst . iv done about 5000 miles from last service i still have two lights showing
-
FlappySocks
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 860
- Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2006 11:00 pm
- Location: Fareham, Hampshire
It could be a number of things. I suggested the blue temp sensor, because it can be easily checked, replaced, and is prone to failure. If it's not the sensor, check for an air leak. Fuel pressure maybe...
Stuart.
Stuart.
-
salamy
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2005 11:00 pm
were is the blue temp sensor 
-
salamy
- E30 Zone Newbie

- Posts: 121
- Joined: Sat Dec 24, 2005 11:00 pm
can any one tell me where the blue temp sensor bes in a 325i convertible . thanks
-
rosscoe
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 315
- Joined: Tue May 24, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: newburgh,fife,scotland
I was havin the same sort of problem wi my 325 too,checked and replaced lots of things,in the end i found one of the chassis earths from the motor was damaged
.I replaced one on the o/s at the front of the motor wi a bit green/yellow 50mm cable and hey presto like a different motor now!
HTH
.I replaced one on the o/s at the front of the motor wi a bit green/yellow 50mm cable and hey presto like a different motor now!
HTH
-
Globulator
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 389
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:00 pm
Front of engine - thermostat housing - two pin blue connector - tells the ECU the engine temp. The brown single pin one is for the temp gauge.
Use a long 19mm socket to change it - do it fast and lose no coolant (depressurise first by loosening, and then re-tightening rad cap).
Less than 20 quids from your local BMW dealer. Do not overtighten.
You may also want to try a new fuel pressure regulator - next to the
blue temp thingy with a vacuum hose to the inlet manifold one end,
the fuel return pipe on the other. Pull fuse 11 and run engine to depressurise fuel system before changing.
Use a long 19mm socket to change it - do it fast and lose no coolant (depressurise first by loosening, and then re-tightening rad cap).
Less than 20 quids from your local BMW dealer. Do not overtighten.
You may also want to try a new fuel pressure regulator - next to the
blue temp thingy with a vacuum hose to the inlet manifold one end,
the fuel return pipe on the other. Pull fuse 11 and run engine to depressurise fuel system before changing.
1986 325i 'vert, funk louder than standard.
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net
"No Mr Bond, I expect you to tell me why your 4 litre, 282bhp sports car can't outrun some lardy old Mercs.."
Audio & electronic software: http://www.cutestudio.net

Motronic to Megasquirt Plug and Play Guide