how to remove air lock out of a 325i g reg

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super_fly
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Post Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:24 pm

does anyone know how to remove an air lock out of a 325i cause ive tried and i cant get to grips with it.
wildeian
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Post Sat Apr 29, 2006 6:54 pm

you tried the bleed screw on the thermostat?

or running it up with the cap off the expansion tank till all the bubbles come out?
fozzy325is
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Post Sat Apr 29, 2006 7:05 pm

ave had this problem a few times and there a tw*t to bleed up!!! take the top hose off and leave it running giving it slight revs and when water starts coming out but it back on, job done! worked 4 me! best of luck any way.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:35 pm

If you mean the air lock which prevents the heater working, be carefull.Your engine will overheat very quickly, and 325 heads crack easily!
Fill the header tank to the brim, loosen the top heater hose where it connects on the bulkhead and partly pull it off so that some coolant, along with the air, escapes.
telski789
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Post Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:58 am

when i bled mine i took the bleed screw right out and got a 2 litre coke bottle,chopped the end off and put ptfe tape around the end (to seal it when its in the expansion tank) and put this in the expansion tank,then filled that up 3/4 so it was forcing the water to come out of the thermostat housing without even having the engine running! but have the engine running anyway! then whilst it was running out freely i put the bleed screw back in and tightened it,then took the bottle off of the expanmsion tank (obviously there will be some spillage when you take the coke bottle back off,so careful if its got anti-freeze in!) then i ran the engine till the thermostat opened and put the heater on full and bled it as normal,its the only way i can get them to bleed properly! sorry for the cack pic!!

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stuartgallafant
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Post Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:22 pm

i find it difficult to believe that so many people have problems bleeding their cooling systems!!! its easy, and doing it the way i do, i've NEVER had a problem...

-take off the rad cap, and remove the bleed screw
-turn on the ignition
-turn the heaters on FULL, the fans on FULL, and open all the vents
-top up the expansion tank. you should notice that if you fill it right up, it
will drain back down again.
-continue to fill the tank up, until the water starts pissing out the bleed
hole. water and air will be coming out the bleed hole, so continue to fill
up the expansion tank until theres no more air coming out the bleed hole,
just water
-replace the bleed screw, tighten the rad cap and the jobs done
-let the engine idle for about 10 mins to make sure she dont overheat

hope this helps... :D
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:53 pm

The single most important thing when refilling a M20 cooling system is to have the heater at full hot and to monitor the heater output while the engine warms up. If you have no heater output after a minute or so then switch off quickly before you crack the head and bleed the heater hose.
It will take several days to get every trace of air out and for the coolant level to stabilize.
stuartgallafant
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Post Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:13 pm

i do agree with you thouhg Brian, M20's are always a pain in the arse!!

although my method does work very effectively!!!
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:22 pm

Having the front of the car slightly uphill helps.
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super_fly
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Post Tue May 02, 2006 10:01 pm

thanks for the tips guys i will try out the methods u gave me and il let u know the results....