New disks and pads (can i do this myself)

[tylerma]

right gonna go and buy ate disks and pads frome euro car parts
(front & rear)
basically what i want to know is will i need any special tools
or gadgets to do this

is it wise for me to do the job myself (i am confident enough)

is this a job i can do myself (is it a specialist job)

any help/advice would be great

[Demlotcrew]

Get ATE disks and Textar pads. ATE pads are a little (homo smilie)

[Dom]

shouldn't be too difficult... get a haynes manual and see if you're happy!

[tylerma]

this place amazes me
2 replies in 2 minutes
thanks guys

[Gunni]

this place amazes me
2 replies in 2 minutes
thanks guys

Bleeding valve = 7mm closed wrench
bolt in rotor = 5mm allen key
bolts in calipers = I don´t remember, but allen style (7 or 8mm)
Wheels off/on = 17mm socket or BMW tire wrench
Handy extras = hammer, flat screwriver, pliers

[tylerma]

this place amazes me
2 replies in 2 minutes
thanks guys

Bleeding valve = 7mm closed wrench
bolt in rotor = 5mm allen key
bolts in calipers = I don´t remember, but allen style (7 or 8mm)
Wheels off/on = 17mm socket or BMW tire wrench
Handy extras = hammer, flat screwriver, pliers

cheers fella
dont think you could have got any more simple than that

[Andy335Touring]

and....

g-clamp
brake cleener
copper slip
wire brush

[Simon13]

And GORILLA STRENGTH as the bolts which hold the caliper on can be tight! if you can try and extend you ratchet with a pole or something to increase the leverage takes some of the hard work out of it!

[sabrje]

It took me a day to do the fronts and another day to do the rears, but most of the time on each day was down to trying to free one bolt... Its a fairly simple job, but make sure you've got something comfortable to kneel on!

[Davenotouring]

When you put it all back together, make sure you pump the brake pedal to push the piston against the pad, otherwise when you drive off down the road, your brakes won't work!!

[randomdave325]

you won't need to bleed it. if you are not sure how to fit discs and pads don't get involved with bleeding the brakes. just take the top of the master cylinder when you push the caliper pistons back and watch it doesn't overflow. if you do spill brake fluid rinse it immediately with water as it is nasty stuff on your paint. obviously put the top back on the master cylinder b4 you rinse it as water in the brakefluid is not good(savagely reduces the boiling point causing brakefade). it does a good enough job of that on it's own if you don't change it regularly( every 2 yrs) and as dave touring quite rightly said

When you put it all back together, make sure you pump the brake pedal to push the piston against the pad, otherwise when you drive off down the road, your brakes won't work!!

i'll just say that again

When you put it all back together, make sure you pump the brake pedal to push the piston against the pad, otherwise when you drive off down the road, your brakes won't work!!

. i've seen a few cars crashed through people not doing this.(amusing for me, not for the owner). when you've fitted them bed them in for 200miles (no heavy braking) or you will glaze the pads/warp the discs and of wasted your time. the bolt in the calipers is a 7mm allen bolt or 13mm normal bolts depending on age(whatever came to hand in the factory). if you are at all unsure. don't do it. the brakes are quite important! remember to clean the discs first with brakecleaner before you fit them as they are covered with oil to stop them rusting and if you don't you will contaminate the pads. also apply copperslip to the back of the pads and the edges(metal parts) being careful not to get it on the lining itself. this will stop brakesqueal or them seizing. one more thing (sorry for banging on) when you come to undo the retaining screw on the disk. (the 5mm allen bolt) hit it with a punch (samesize as the head) first as these can be a barsteward. hitting it first frees the threads and makes it easier to undo.
if it is mullered hammer a torx bit in to undo it and get a new bolt. hope all this helps. it is easier than i've made it sound. good luck!

[Lordschleife]

Good advice there, and make sure that bedding in period is 200 miles of normal driving - not motorway!
I once had to drive to the other side of the country with new discs/pads - didnt really think, had done maybe 30-50 miles normal driving then 150 motorway. I was still leaving a really big gap to the car in front just in case, but expected the brakes would be fully working. Of course you hardly use them on the motorway, so when someone slammed their brakes on in the outside lane I had a feeling of horror as the brakes felt like they were made of glass!
Stopped about 1inch from the back of them

Of course if you are using race style pads/grooved discs you can just follow this bedding in procedure instead:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

[tylerma]

Get ATE disks and Textar pads. ATE pads are a little (homo smilie)

just had a look at the price and there isnt much difference so i will do that
thanks for the suggestion

thanks all for the great advice its all been taken on board
is it a wise idea to do the fronts now and the rears in a couple of weeks
or should i do all at the same time
open to some of your great suggestions on this one

[andyp]

do them a few weeks apart, if you need anything you know where i am

[tylerma]

do them a few weeks apart, if you need anything you know where i am

cheers fella
much appreciated

[Demlotcrew]

Yes you can do it a few weeks appart really doesnt matter.

Andrew