Manual to Electric Sun Roof

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Kelson
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Post Thu Jan 13, 2005 2:20 pm

Any one done this conversion/got any info on how tricky it is?
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A1BMW325iSport
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Post Thu Jan 13, 2005 5:53 pm

fairly easy...

you`ll need the motor inc the plate it bolts to/wiring/switch/roof trim panel

the screws that hold motor make sure you get them as well.
A1BMW325iSport
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Post Thu Jan 13, 2005 6:06 pm

should all fit in nicely, prob i had on my old 320i was the motor plate its fixed to the cable runners, you`ll have to find some way to fix it there.

or best way is to replace the complete plate with runners and cables but that means removing the complete sunroof.

Matt.
Kelson
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Post Thu Jan 13, 2005 6:49 pm

Do I need to locate/fit any micro switches or whatever to control when it tilts/stops or is that all built into the motor (I have had cars where they are all separate and are a nightmare to set up accurately).
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Brianmoooore
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Post Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:45 pm

Just in the middle of doing this to a Touring I've just aquired. Hoped to have finished last weekend, but everything didn't quite go as planned.
Microswitch is mounted on the motor, so you shouldn't have any problems there if you fit the motor with both it and the roof in the fully closed position. Don't let one side of the roof move relative to the other when the motor is out.
Black motor mounting plate / manual handle plate is riveted to the gold coloured cable plate. I drilled out these rivets and bolted the motor black plate in place of the manual one with two 5mm nuts and bolts. Problem I had was, although the gold coloured backplate has threaded holes for the motor bolts, for some reason they were spaced slightly wrongly. I overcame this by drilling out the motor mounting holes slightly. Next problem was with the motor mounting bolt nearest the passenger side. On the original electric roof cable backplate there was a threaded boss for this bolt standing a few millimetres proud of the gold plate, filling the gap between the black and gold plates. This is not present on the manual backplate, although there is a threaded hole in the backplate itself. To overcome this I had to make and slide a small spacer between the two plates, and find a longer motor mounting bolt.
Only other thing to remember, is to fit the relay in place before you fit the motor, as the relay fixing screw is under the motor
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Brianmoooore
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Post Sun Jan 16, 2005 11:47 pm

Finished mine today - all working fine.
I've had the roof panel out as well, dealing with the beginnings of rust on the underside, so I've had to retime the whole thing. Took the oportunity to take the cables out and regrease them as well. Also found the sharp stainless steel edges I've seen mentioned in other posts - Yes they are sharp.
Found the best way to set the timing was to pull the cables fully forward so that the roof tilts, to refit the roof panel temperarily, then to connect the motor electrics up without fitting the motor and to press the switch for full tilt. Then fit the motor in position with the manual hex key in place to seat the drive gear in the cables properly.
Be carefull you don't use too long a screw for the left hand motor fixing - it's end isn't very far from the inside of the roof when you tighten it up. (Don't ask how I know).
The electrical supply for the roof comes from a pin near the middle of the accessories connector panel behind the fusebox. It will only fit in the right place. You will also have to fit relay K5 and fuse 17 if not already there for electric windows. (Mine had aftermarket electric windows bodged into the rear demister circuit, which are also being changed)
Kelson
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Post Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:34 am

Thanks chaps, I'll be onto it soon. I'll try and get some piccies to work in with the descriptions etc. Then we can put it forward as an article.
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