P/S rack change

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:51 pm

I've been told this a sad job to do on an E30. My auto 325's rack is making some horrendous grinding noises now and the steering can get very heavy then it will crack! and be ok for a while or until i park in tescos or something. Then it will crack and grind again. Now this ain't shagged ball joints on the track rods i'm sure! It's almost like something has broken inside the rack and is float about in there?

The rubber coupling is fine. Whats a bit puzzling is i replaced the boots on the inner track rods for the mot and all was dry in there and the rack doesn't leak either.

Fluid is a bit grim too.

So what are reckoning geezers?

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:56 pm

im in the middle of solving this problem now

mine was really stiff to turn and wouldnt self centre at at all
then started to creak and groan
now to noisy to drive and dangerous

removed rack today have prepped another rack
just gotta fit new track rods etc tmoro and refit it all

its easier enough a job
i wasnt lookin forward to it but its surprisingly easy

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:59 pm

how do u even get track rods out? i tried on sat but didn't have to time to really get stuck in a swear and sweat.

Luck had it the Alpina has a recon rack and new rod ends. Steering is quiet and smooth feels like new

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:02 pm

As said already,its straight forward enough to do.

I bent the tabs down to make removing/refitting easier!

Last one i did on a 320i took about 2-3 hours to do.

HTH

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:04 pm

that was the hardest bit as there aint much to get a grip on

i took boots off popped open the locking tabs with a chisel
then got an adjustable spanner as it was only thing i could find to fit it
dosent help that theres hardly any flat edge to get a good grip on

anyway got adjustable on then stood on rack and smacked the adjust with a lumpy

1 freed instantly
the other took 4 or cracks to free up
then just unscrew them

im assuming theres a proper tool but wheres the fun in that

have a read mate

http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/d ... Section=05

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:10 pm

Daz,not sure what your on about mate

I`m on about the tabs where the main fixing bolts go through.
This is the only obstruction i came across!

Post Mon Apr 10, 2006 11:11 pm

yeah i bent them too

im on about the locking tabs on the track rods to rack

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 2:27 am

Bending the tabs is a great idea. do you still have to jack the motor for clearance or does it just pull out.

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:21 am

If anyone needs a rack ive got mine here after i converted to e36 rack.

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:23 am

bottlecapE30 wrote:Bending the tabs is a great idea. do you still have to jack the motor for clearance or does it just pull out.

Rack will come out and go in without lifting the engine.
Don't actually have to bend the lower tabs either, but it helps.
It's one of those jobs where an extra quarter inch clearance would transform the job.

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:23 am

bottlecapE30 wrote:Bending the tabs is a great idea. do you still have to jack the motor for clearance or does it just pull out.

no lifting required

just bend em down gently and wiggle the rack out

gotta go put mine back on in a bit

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:25 am

look forward to hearing from you after this is done Daz, hope you can go out and give the old girl some abuse

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:28 am

me too mate

its breaking my heart sat here undriveable

putting new rods and ends on today with a different rack and pump

so hopefully all probs will be solved

next stop windows and centrallocking lol

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 5:29 pm

Ok i'm inspired now i need to find a rack i have new fluid and 2 new outer rod ends.

Buster what would the damage be? i expect postage would be a fair amount

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 6:17 pm

I have been told that the best way of removing the track rod ends is to leave them attached to the suspension strut and turn the whole arm.

Post Tue Apr 11, 2006 6:44 pm

i have some stilsons and tried this but to no avail. Sounds like it's easier to buy inner outer track rods complete and change that way?

Post Wed Apr 12, 2006 8:12 am

Simon13 wrote:Ok i'm inspired now i need to find a rack i have new fluid and 2 new outer rod ends.

Buster what would the damage be? i expect postage would be a fair amount

Not sure m8,do you want me to find out ?

Post Wed Apr 12, 2006 2:35 pm

FYI a boxed PAS rack with track rod ends costs 11.65 to post.

Post Wed Apr 12, 2006 6:56 pm

thanks buster but i have found one closer to home cheers for the offer

Post Wed Apr 12, 2006 10:11 pm

smithy318i wrote:I have been told that the best way of removing the track rod ends is to leave them attached to the suspension strut and turn the whole arm.

Definitely. Remove the clamp bolts and slide the clamps out of the way, then, with a blunt ended chisel into the slots in the track rods, tap the chisel with a hammer to shock the female part of the thread away fom the male thread on the rod ends. Give everything a good blast with WD40 while doing this, and it will be drawn into the threads.
Give the WD40 time to work, then you should be able to shift the track rods with a spanner on the flats provided, assisted by a large pair of stilsons.
If all else fails, then a blowtorch works wonders.