Rust Repair Procedure??

[Doink1]

Hi guys,

I have some rust appearing on my front arches so I am going to have a go at fixing it myself kind of a mini project. The way i understand it is

1 Remove loose rust with wire brush.
2 Sand down as much as possible.
3 Apply Rust remover (Hammerite Krust)
4 Clean surface.
5 Apply filler if needed (only surface rust so probably not)
5 Apply Eurotheane primer to seal.

Get it painted by a body shop to finish.

Does this look ok or am i missing something important.
Cheers for any advice.

Steve

[austinsom]

I did it in very much the same way when I tackled rust on my old 318i.

My process went like this...!

Bought a cheap angle grinder and a selection of attachments. I had a wire brush attachment and a grinding flap wheel. I Used the wire brush attachment to get the majority of the rust off, and then used the flap wheel to take it all the way back to bare metal. At this point I coated it with a rust preventitive, then applied 4 coats of primer. After this I took the car to a bodyshop who then resprayed the arches (alot of places will NOT touch rust). I had the car for about 7 months after that, and there was no rust coming back through where I had done the grinding!

A word of caution though... Dont press hard with either attachment as it will cut through the metal very fast, esp. the grinding flap wheel

Almost cost me big time!

Good luck

Greg

[Doink1]

Thanks Greg.

I thought I was on the right track but its best to check
Cheers again

Steve

Just a thought, I have got a rust treatment that you apply then Clean off before the coat of primer. A rust Preventitive that stays on would probably be a better long term option, What do you think??

[austinsom]

I would say it's probably the best way to go, certainly worked for me! I used Jenolite Double Act. That's part of the reason I used 4 coats of primer as the jenolite is red! It's got a consistancy very much like industrial floor paint. Depending on how it goes on you may need to wet and dry it down to smooth it.

After that make sure it is left for at least 36 hours to dry. If you paint it and it's not dry the paint goes pink

If you're cars not white though, it's not so much of a problem, only mentioning it as my car was white, and therefore so was the primer!

Also helps to show how well it worked as it's hard to hide rust on white!!

Cheers,

Greg

[Doink1]

Magic Thanks again Mate

Steve

[kevin316i]

I've bought some POR-15 rust paint and metal ready primer from Frost Auto Restorers in the UK as it is supposed to be the bees knees and cats pyjamas when it comes to rust paint. Haven't tried it yet but have only read good reports.

[Ant]

the only real cure is cut it all out and let new metal in, but I appreciate its Ԛ£Ã”šÃ‚£Ãƒ”šÃ‚£

for the front wings I'd go for a new pair anyday TBH,

all the rust stabiliser seems to work the same in my experience, the key to success as always is prepration of the area.

Good luck dude, let us know how she goes

[Jhonno]

i've been recommended an Acid based product to use on rust.. apparently its the bee knees and all my local paint place recommends.. It kills it and then forms a layer over it which you then prime and paint over... Only Ԛ£14 for a litre...

[Doink1]

for the front wings I'd go for a new pair anyday TBH,

Me too if i could afford it but this spring I ve got some spare time and very little cash hence my mini project to get my car ready for summer.

This weekend I'm removing my M-tec I kit to see the extent of the work and to sand it down ready for repainting.

This is kind of what im after when done


A long way to go but the suns not out yet.

Steve