Damned alarm activated central locking going mental ..

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Rosc0PColtrane
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:14 pm

My central locking appears to be on the blink. Think it may well be a soldenoid.(?)

I have a clifford concept 300 alarm on my cab. However yesterday, the central locking bit stopped working. Even by using the door key, the central locking no longer works.

Howver it doesn't end there. A couple of times as I've been driving, the doors and boot have just decided to lock themselves. When I pull the loor lever (once stopped) everything unlocks but the central locking still doesn't operate.

Can anyone suggest any ideas?
HartgeH27
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 12:55 pm

http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... ocking.htm

Check the link out - if you follow it through it should help !!

Iain
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:26 pm

HartgeH27 wrote:http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... ocking.htm

Check the link out - if you follow it through it should help !!

Iain
Don't like that link at all - it gives some dubious advice.
It advises resoldering the thermal link. but this should not be done unless you have exactly the right spec solder, or reuse the original.
Most people are going to pick up their reel of 60/40 or even this new horrible lead free rubbish and resolder it. Fires have been caused!!
Next it advises dismantling the door plug and socket, Cure one fault and cause three more.
90% of central locking problems will be cured by finding the two re/black wires behinfd the speaker, cutting them from the door socket and joining them together.
pacerpete
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:41 pm

There is only one place for a clifford , the bin !
Rosc0PColtrane
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:09 pm

pacerpete wrote:There is only one place for a clifford , the bin !
Have to say the alarm has perfromed satisfactorily, the proximity sensor keeps knife wielding charvers at bay. I'm not keen on soldering stuff together for obvious reasons. The intermittancey would suggest a dodgey connection or knackered relay/ solenoid?

Is the relay in the drivers door responsible for locking teh whole car or has the boot and passenger door got their own relays?

Is there a solenoid in the circuit too?

A fuse?

Just trying to bounce some ideas around and get some expert opinions!

Thanks for all the contributions
Rosc0PColtrane
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:18 pm

HartgeH27 wrote:http://www.e30zone.co.uk/modules.php?na ... ocking.htm

Check the link out - if you follow it through it should help !!

Iain
Thanks for the input. Just a thought, if the wire had melted on mine, would the central locking just not work at all? Mine randomly decides to lock and unlock as I'm driving so I guess there is still some connection somewhere!!!

Looks like I'll have to take it all apart!!?
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:29 pm

blatantarrogance,as Brianmoore stated above,the problem with central locking on E30`s usually heads back to the Red/Black wire in the drivers door pillar.
From my understanding the Red/Black wire goes through the plug and into the door,loops round and exits back through the plug,so if you find both Red/Black wires behind speaker,chop and join together,effectively bypassing the plug then your problem will probably be cured!

Hope you understand my crappy explanation :)
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 6:15 pm

eko wrote:blatantarrogance,as Brianmoore stated above,the problem with central locking on E30`s usually heads back to the Red/Black wire in the drivers door pillar.
From my understanding the Red/Black wire goes through the plug and into the door,loops round and exits back through the plug,so if you find both Red/Black wires behind speaker,chop and join together,effectively bypassing the plug then your problem will probably be cured!

Hope you understand my crappy explanation :)
eko's got it exactly!
Rosc0PColtrane
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 7:39 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
eko wrote:blatantarrogance,as Brianmoore stated above,the problem with central locking on E30`s usually heads back to the Red/Black wire in the drivers door pillar.
From my understanding the Red/Black wire goes through the plug and into the door,loops round and exits back through the plug,so if you find both Red/Black wires behind speaker,chop and join together,effectively bypassing the plug then your problem will probably be cured!

Hope you understand my crappy explanation :)
eko's got it exactly!
Yeah, think I have found the root of the problem, thanks for all your input. When I got back to my car after work, I jiggled the door conector and when I shut the door, the c/locking went crazy!

Upon closer inspection, it seems the wan**ers who fitted my alarm, failed to refit the boot correctly, leaving it loose and obviusly open to the elements.

Looks like I'll have to take it apart and inspect it closely before I give it a dose of WD40. F*ckers fitted the alarn nearly three years ago.

Not decided quite what I'm going to do about it. Any suggestion about how to approach this company and exact some form of revenge would be inciteful. They're not got a great reputation but until now, have done no wrong by me but this oversight is neglegent.

Thanks for all your input guys, you really make the zone what it is and a pleasure to be part of.
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Brianmoooore
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Post Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:19 pm

Keep the WD40 for rusty bolts, and disconnect and join the red/black wires for the locking.
For the rest of the pins in the connector, use proper electrical contact cleaner and a scraper, and grease everything liberaly with silicon grease. (cheapest source is a plumber's merchant. Used for lubricating rubber O rings on push fit waste fittings).
The rubber boot must be refitted properly to the plug before it's pushed into the socket.
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Post Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:21 am

Brianmoooore wrote:Keep the WD40 for rusty bolts, and disconnect and join the red/black wires for the locking.
For the rest of the pins in the connector, use proper electrical contact cleaner and a scraper, and grease everything liberaly with silicon grease. (cheapest source is a plumber's merchant. Used for lubricating rubber O rings on push fit waste fittings).
The rubber boot must be refitted properly to the plug before it's pushed into the socket.
Thanks mate. That's exactly what they didn't do (fit the connector back on properly). On both sides! Looks like I'm going to be tinkering around this weekend!

Again thanks for all your input.