E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I searched for and broke fans.

Again, some error when copying the text, so if anyone is interested, the text is here:
http://forum.e30club.com.ua/index.php/t ... msg1011839

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I searched for and broke fans.

So, I return again to the installation of the parts of the air conditioner, namely - the condenser and the fan. I'll start with the fan.
The air conditioner included a 7-blade fan made by the Canadian manufacturer Power Motion.
The condition is unknown, the appearance is so-so...








The first check showed that it was not working.
Another type of fan was available for the E30 - with 5 blades, made by the German manufacturer Bosch. They are more common on earlier cars. I read somewhere that they are more reliable and easier to repair. Now I can say that this is not so - there is no fundamental difference between them, except for the different design of the impeller and the number of blades on it. But then I decided to look for a Bosch fan, and surprisingly, I found it quite quickly. According to the seller - "it was working".... Its appearance did not inspire much hope either, but I still bought it.




It turned out that it was from a restyling car, and had a different connector, with flat contacts. But this is not a problem. And the problem is that it did not work at all!
Well, what! Now I have both types of fans and both are not working! Decided to repair Bosch - more repairable, yes! ))
The impeller did not want to come off the axis, so I unscrewed three nuts on the back side and thus "through the ass" disassembled it! It was a mistake.
The "brushes" were stuck in it due to dirt, so it did not work. Cleaned the brushes, sanded and painted the body.


The magnets did not hold well, the insulation was almost completely peeled off. I cut the insulation from the same material, glued and installed the magnets in the case.




I wanted to replace the bearing, but the impeller sits dead on the rotor axis and does not want to come off!


When I tried to knock out the axle, I even riveted the thread a little... Now the nut does not tighten. By the way, there is a left thread!


I decided to assemble it just like that, without replacing the bearing. Painted the impeller, and then my mistake caught up with me. With the impeller, there is no access to the bolt heads to lock them and screw the motor to the fan housing!


No matter how hard I tried, it was in vain, because it was impossible to insert the bolts into the holes and fix them to tighten the nuts. Fiasco! ) It would be correct to first remove the impeller, and then disassemble the motor. And then collect in the reverse order. Now I know it! ;)
I put everything in a box and went to look for fans in a flea market again! )) Found, but from E34. I looked at ETK - there they say that they are the same for E30, E32, E34. OK, I'll take it!


I check - it works! But only at the second (maximum) speed. The resistor does not work. And that's just a trifle!... I put it in the same box and put it off for "later". Later, in a flea market, I saw another identical fan from an E34. I bought it - there will be a spare! ;)




It has no resistor at all, so it also works only at maximum speed and the bearing hums a lot. I gladly put it in the same box and put it away again for "later"!

And now "then" has come! I took everything out of the box, put it on the table... And what do I see!? They are different in diameter! )


For E30, the diameter is 38 cm


For E34, the diameter is 41 cm


And ETK didn't tell me anything about it! ))) It was not necessary to trust her! )
Well, hope dies last...let's try it on...
First the fan for the E30


From above it becomes almost close to the body


From below, it becomes very tight between the body and the oil cooler


Now the fan for the E34
It does not fit at all from the top


If inserted from above, the oil radiator interferes.


Without the oil cooler, maybe it would fit if you redo the mounts for it. But this is not my option. Again a fiasco! Even double! ))

I remember my very first fan from the set.

I remember my very first fan from the set.
As it turned out, the problem was in the wiring and the resistor. Repaired the wiring, bought a new resistor, cleaned everything.


I check - it works, but only at maximum speed, and with a very strong crackle and crunch. Even with a new resistor, the first speed does not work, the resistor instantly heats up like an iron! I understand that it will not work like this for a long time, or the car will burn down.
Sorted it out. Well, how did I take it apart... broke the hell out of it!


Here, too, the impeller was not removed from the rotor axis. I had to knock it out with a hammer. I tried to beat carefully, but as a result - a cracked impeller


Broken rotor


Broken "brush" housing


The problem was that due to corrosion, the magnets fell away from the housing, rotated together with the rotor and jammed it.




And again I go to look for fans in a flea market! )))) Now only with a diameter of 38 cm)
Although I am lucky in my search! )) Found a fan for E30, again, according to the seller - "it was working" I bought it.


And still working! Of course, only at maximum speed. And the bearing hums. The resistor does not work.



And here it just farted again! )) A friend gave me his old fan - exactly the same as the one I broke. But he is also already broken. The impeller is broken, but the motor works.


The resistor does not work - I'm already used to it! By the way, the resistor here is not the same as on the previous ones.


Took both! )


I now have four fans for the E30! And two more for E34)


I did not disassemble the first one correctly, restored it a little, but now I cannot assemble it.


I broke the second one... )


The third one was already broken... ))


The fourth works, but needs repair... I'm already afraid to touch it!... )))


But, "you don't go to the forest to be afraid of wolves!" (c) ))
Next will be...

P.S.
From my now extensive experience, the main causes of fan failure are:
1. Resistor burned out, works only at maximum speed. Probably so in the majority. I have all six of them.
2. The bearing hums, over time it can jam. The bearing is no longer lubricated from old age or from dirt. Probably also in the majority.
3. Magnets fell off due to corrosion. Loud noise and crackling when working. Can jam.
4. The "brushes" got jammed from dirt. Doesn't work at all.
5. Corrosion of terminals or wires. Doesn't work at all.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I did assemble the fan.

So, I remind you of the beginning of the story)
I didn't disassemble the first fan correctly, and now I can't put it back together because the impeller didn't come off.
I broke the second fan because the impeller did not come off.
The third fan already had a broken impeller, but it does not come off.
The fourth fan worked, but the bearing needs to be replaced. To do this, you need to remove the impeller... )

So, with determination, I unscrewed the nut...and the impeller came off with absolutely no effort! Just like most videos on YouTube! )) I don't know why I was unlucky three times, but the fourth time everything turned out well! ) Finally, the fan is successfully completely disassembled!


There was almost no corrosion inside, only dust and dirt.


The bearing is riveted in the top cover. We drill four rivets and remove the bearing.


Next, traditionally - cleaning, washing, sanding, painting.


The magnets hold very well on the case, so I did not remove them. "Brushes" are also in good condition, not worn.


By the way, compared to an early similar fan, there are not significant differences - magnets are fixed differently, and two capacitors instead of one.


On the early wiring, the connector has flat contacts, and on the late wiring - with round ones.


On the early fan, the wiring is much shorter, since the connector is fixed directly on the fan housing.


There was no point in removing the rotor from the axis, I just cleaned it.




I painted the impeller because it was very worn. The blades on it are not located symmetrically. I read somewhere that this was done to reduce the noise from them. But I'm not sure if that's really the case.


By the way, does anyone know why the letters of the English alphabet are drawn on it in a circle?


The impeller is simply tightly seated on the axis with a sleeve, and on top is locked with a washer under the nut. I do not understand why it is not removed on the first fan. Is the corrosion of the bushing really that bad?




The aluminum body is sandblasted and painted. There is also an unclear point about it - in the photo you can see a cut on the rear part of the rim of the case. I don't understand what he is for either.


There is a cutout from above - on the E30, nothing prevents him there. Is it possible that on other models there is something in the way, or it rests...


I bought a new resistor, a similar one, manufactured by GM. With the GM part number (94812213), it is three times cheaper than the exact same Bosch resistor (3134503020), or four times cheaper than the same Bosch one ordered with the original BMW part number (17401373177).


The design and resistance (0.6 Ohm) are exactly the same. The only difference is one mounting hole instead of two. If desired, you can drill, but it is fixed perfectly anyway. I don't think it's worth paying more! ;)




I drilled holes for rivets with a diameter of 3 mm in the cover.


New bearing SKF 6001. They say that there are many Chinese fakes, so I ordered a bearing of European manufacture - France.




The old factory bearing was a NSK 6001. It didn't seize, but it was already completely dry, so it was very noisy.


So, tightly insert the bearing into the cover.


But we rivet with four 3x8 mm rivets. The rivets should not protrude too much so as not to catch the rotor and the impeller.




Lubricate the axis and bushing with grease, treat all contacts with a special spray, and wash the remains with anti-silicone.


We install the rotor.


We install a cover with a bearing on the axle and bolts. It is important to install the cover with the right side - riveted washer to the mount. Because I messed up at first and the cover jammed the rotor... )
Another nuance - there is one hole in the engine housing - it looks like a drain. Therefore, we put the engine on the body with this hole facing down.


In such a position.


We fasten the engine with three nuts. We fix the wiring with ties in the places provided for this.


Lubricate the sleeve (so that it can be removed again later, if necessary), and install the impeller.


We fix the position of the impeller on the axis so that the locking washer falls into the grooves on the impeller. We tighten the nut - LEFT thread! Lock the nut with one "eye" of the washer.


We install and connect a resistor to the wiring terminals. We fix the wiring with ties in the places provided for this.




We snap the connector body onto the foam.


The bracket on the fan housing is used to fix the connector only on the early wiring. In this case, it is not used.


The fan is ready for installation.




Checked - works at both speeds, almost silently.

I will try to collect my other fans later. At least one. Or maybe it will be possible to collect one more from two.
Next is the capacitor.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

The story of how I chose a capacitor.

The air conditioner, of course, included the old original condenser. Everyone recommends immediately replacing it with a new one. I was choosing between Nissens and Behr Mahle. But I ordered Behr Mahle - because in the photo it was exactly the same as the original.


But a miracle did not happen, and the usual "new" Chinese radiator arrived! Exactly the same as Nissens, only a little more expensive.


But with the nameplate Behr Mahle)


I didn't really like it for some reason... So, just in case, I decided to check the old radiator. I screwed on the hoses, with a plug and a valve.


And pumped up 6 atmospheres. It was scary to pump more so that the bolt wouldn't fly out! ) And even more than eight, the compressor still does not pump.


I put it in water, held it for a while - it holds the pressure, there are no bubbles! ) That is, it is intact and airtight.


Let's compare. The original one is wider in terms of "honeycombs" - 42x33 cm, against 37x33 cm in the new one.




The old one is also much larger in thickness.


Their construction is completely different. In the old one, two tubes run parallel in a "snake" across the entire plane of the radiator. And in the new one, at first it seemed to me that the horizontal thin tubes were simply all parallel - what a fool! ))


But then I looked more closely and noticed that the vertical side tubes have baffles.




The liquid also circulates in a "snake", but through several tubes in parallel (11-9-7-5). In the photo, I showed the circulation diagram.


People say that with such a scheme, circulation and heat transfer are even better than with the scheme of the old radiator. I want to believe that it is so... But I decided to install a new Chinese radiator after all! )
The upper fasteners were poorly riveted, so they had to be drilled and re-riveted. The lower mount is normal, but there were no rubber cushions on it - you need to re-glue them from the old radiator, or order new original ones.




I have already primed and painted the fasteners so that they don't look homemade, from roofing tin) I also cleaned and painted the old radiator.




Say what you don't, but the old original radiator looks better and more reliable!...




Especially the fastening of pipe fittings.






I installed the fasteners and put them in the box - there will be a spare.


Well, the new radiator, with a newly riveted and painted fastener, is ready for installation.










By the way, the Chinese did not completely paint the radiator itself, we had to repaint it for them...
Well, I hope it will serve better than it looks...
Next, about the installation of the fan and condenser.

[The_Glory]

Collection_165. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 11) Condenser, fan.

Finally, it came to installing the fan and condenser.
On cars without air conditioning, a plastic diffuser is installed in front of the radiator. It comes in several types, depending on the model and year of manufacture. But, if there is an air conditioner, it is not installed, since there is a fan and a condenser in its place. In this case, only the side shields are installed.
So, first you need to install the fan side shields. They are shown in ETK in the body section - I already mentioned them then, but at that time I had not yet bought them. Now I have them. Now we are talking only about them.
Front body parts




Part No. 6 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 8 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

The same shields in ETK are also shown in the body equipment section, where I also mentioned them.
Air Duct




Part No. 6 - right air duct (51 71 1 937 974) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 7 - left air duct (51 71 1 937 973) - 1 pc. For cars up to the year 87.
Part No. 11 - rivet with spacer sleeve D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 4 pcs.

There is an unexpected nuance with the fastening. Back then, I ordered original clips D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964), I had to take the whole package, although only 4 pieces are needed.




And these clips, surprisingly, did not fit! The holes in the body are larger than the clips - 8 mm in diameter, and the clips did not hold the shields at all.
I had to buy larger universal clips for 8 mm holes.


In the photo, universal ones are on top, original ones are on the bottom.


The shields are wound on top of the body bracket and fixed with two clips each.
Install the right shield.


We install the left shield.


We lay all the wiring through the cutout in the left shield and through the hole in the right shield.


Now you can install the fan and condenser.
Condenser, fan




Part #1 - capacitor R12/R134A (64 53 8 391 509) - 1 pc. I use an analogue of Behr Mahle (AC159000S)

Part No. 2 (No. 3+No. 4) - additional fan (64 54 1 376 973) - 1 pc. I use the original BOSCH fan.

Part #3 - BOSCH impeller (17 40 1 362 100) - 1 pc. Impeller with 5 blades.
Part #4 - BOSCH fan housing (17 40 1 371 261) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - BOSCH resistor (17 40 1 373 177) - 1 pc. I use a GM analog (94812213) - I wrote about it in a previous post.

Part #6 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. Instead of two separate thermal switches, I use a double one.
Part No. 7 - sealing ring A14X20-VF (07 11 9 963 227) - 1 pc.

Part No. 8 - rubber cushion (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rivet with spacer sleeve (17 11 1 150 983) - 2 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (16 11 1 152 613) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 9700 - 2 pcs.

Part #12 - nameplate "Klimaanlage" 1075G (64 50 1 380 982) - 1 pc. Sticker "Freon R12" - I will stick it later, the whole set together.

Part No. 13 - rubber sleeve (17 40 1 362 128) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 14 - M5 bolt (17 40 1 354 522) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 15 - spacer washer (17 40 1 354 523) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 16 - spring ring B5 (07 11 9 933 060) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 17 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 3 pcs.


The double thermal switch (#6) on 3 contacts and its sealing ring (#7) will be installed in the main radiator, so I will write about them later.




As I already said, there are no lower rubber pads on the new condenser. They are in good condition on my old capacitor, and I didn't have time to wait for a new one, so I just glued them onto the new capacitor.
By the way, according to ETK, they are fixed with clips (#9), but neither the old original nor the new capacitors have holes for them. There are also no holes in the pillows - they were glued. Apparently, clips were used on earlier versions.


So, we glue two lower pillows (#8) and insert three rubber bushings (#13) into the brackets.


We fasten the fan with three bolts, through washers and rubber bushings to the condenser in this position.


We remove the plugs from the flanges. By the way, the condenser was not under high pressure - apparently this is a "guarantee" of tightness.
Ready to install.


We insert sheet nuts into special holes on the body. We insert a fan with a condenser from the inside of the body.


We level it so that it rests on the bottom with pillows in the body, and fasten it with two self-tapping screws.




From above, there is not a large gap to the body.


From below, the fan housing becomes very tight to the oil cooler tube.


We pass the hoses through the hole in the shield and screw them to the flanges with new sealing rings. The tube had to be bent a little. It is necessary to tighten very carefully - the fastening of the flanges on the Chinese capacitor is not very reliable...


Now you can fully connect and fix the dehumidifier - we screw the tube, hose and sensor to it. The tube had to be bent a little.


Here again there is a nuance of the Chinese analogue of the dryer (Behr Mahle) - instead of three fasteners, it has only two, but only one fits into the factory clips on the body. The second does not match. Well, that's it... he'll behave normally anyway, but...


The hose that goes to the compressor is of two types - with a short metal tube or with a long one. I have a long one. Therefore, it was necessary to replace the hose clamp with a smaller one. Maybe it depends on the type of compressor. I will install the compressor later, then I will look, maybe I will have to change the hose... we'll see...
The hose had scuff marks on the rib of the spar, so I installed a rubber pad on the rib - the same as the one on the left spar under the fuel hose. I think it will not be superfluous.


Connect the fan wiring connector to the air conditioner wiring under the left headlight.


The fan and condenser are installed and connected.

Now you can finish assembling the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_166. ETK_63_Lights. Installation of headlights and assembly of the front part.

So, finally, you can install headlights.
First, we lay all the wiring harnesses and fix them with clamps under the left headlight. We check all terminals "ground" G104 behind the left headlight. We check the connectors for connecting the wiring of the headlight cleaner and the electric fan.
We fasten the headlight with three self-tapping screws.


We connect all connectors to the headlight.
Blue - position lights.
Yellow - dipped beam.
White - high beam.
We insert the hydraulic corrector tube into the fitting on the drive. Although, it will not work yet.
We connect the connector of the electric drive of the headlight cleaner, and through the special hole in the headlight frame we pass the hose of the nozzle of the headlight washer.




The fog light connector will be connected after installing the BBS front apron together with the fog lights.

We put the shield on the corrugation of the air filter, and install the plastic protective shield of the headlights. We fix it with two clips.


The left side is ready.

Let's go to the right side.
We stretch in front of the fan and lay all wiring harnesses and hoses. We fix them with clamps under the right headlight. I used a few more wire holders. We connect the right sound signal.


By the way, the brackets for the headlight cleaner connectors did not match. I don't know why, but there were no suitable holes in the body for them, and the connectors do not reach them. Maybe they are for restyling...

We install the tank for the washing liquid and connect the ECU and three pumps. The headlight washer hose is connected to the rear pump. The other two hoses come out of the hood, so they will be connected after it is installed.




We lay the wiring along the spar and fix it. The wiring to the air conditioner compressor will be connected after it is installed.


We fasten the headlight with three self-tapping screws.


All connectors and hoses of the right headlight are connected similarly to the left headlight.


The plastic protective shield of the headlights must be cut, because it rests on the hose and dryer of the air conditioner. There are factory marks on the shield for this.
Cutout for the headlight washer hose.


Cutout for air conditioning dryer.


Cutout for air conditioner hose.


It is interesting that on the front side of the shield there are also similar factory labels, but their outline is larger. Maybe it's for different configurations...
Cutout for the headlight washer hose.


Cutout for air conditioning dryer.


Cutout for air conditioner hose.


I cut along a smaller outline on the inside of the shield. The photo shows the difference with the outline on the front side.


Then I had to cut a little more under the dryer, because it rested. Apparently, the analogue is slightly larger in size than the original.

We install a plastic protective shield for the headlights. We fix it with two clips.


Everything is installed on the right.




I wrote about the installation of the front apron a long time ago in the corresponding section. But, I will repeat, since the apron was removed for convenience.


We insert the insert plates into special holes in the body - under the headlights and under the towing loops.


We fasten the apron with two self-tapping screws on each side.




The apron is installed. We pass the wiring with turn signal connectors through special holes.




We insert rubber pads on the towing loops.


Wire harnesses and hoses are tightly fixed with clamps all over the apron. The photo shows why additional cutouts for the air conditioner are made in the apron - with them, the blowing of the condenser and radiator is much better.


In my case, there is a lot of wiring, so the harnesses pass very close to the fan - you need to fasten them well so that they do not rub against the impeller.


The front apron is installed.


Now you can install the wings, the hood, and set the gaps on them.

P.S.
And for now, just out of curiosity, I put on the grilles and nostrils - it seems that everything is more or less even! ;)





A cute little face!

[martauto]

Brilliant
Come on guy`s , you will NEVER see a comprehensive build like this !!!!
And he`s a war zone too ????

Thank`s mate.

Mart.

[fixedwheelnut]

Brilliant
Come on guy`s , you will NEVER see a comprehensive build like this !!!!
And he`s a war zone too ????

Thank`s mate.

Mart.

I agree, the level of attention is phenomenal, with this build and Liam's build the attention to detail is above and beyond.

[The_Glory]

Brilliant
Come on guy`s , you will NEVER see a comprehensive build like this !!!!
And he`s a war zone too ????

Thank`s mate.

Mart.

Thank you)
Fortunately, there is no active war zone near Kyiv. But there are air raids, missile attacks and drone attacks every day, several times... If it weren't for the damned Muscovites with their war, the car would have been assembled a long time ago, would have been driving, and would have given pleasant emotions...
And for now, the further, the harder it is... I hope that I will finish the assembly, and that's how it will be. There is not much left...

[The_Glory]

Brilliant
Come on guy`s , you will NEVER see a comprehensive build like this !!!!
And he`s a war zone too ????

Thank`s mate.

Mart.

I agree, the level of attention is phenomenal, with this build and Liam's build the attention to detail is above and beyond.

Thank you, I hope I will have enough strength and patience to finish it )

[martauto]

You will mate and we are all in your camp on this one .

Many thanks, Mart.

[lellis]

Brilliant
Come on guy`s , you will NEVER see a comprehensive build like this !!!!
And he`s a war zone too ????

Thank`s mate.

Mart.

I agree, the level of attention is phenomenal, with this build and Liam's build the attention to detail is above and beyond.

I did not expect to see my name! Haha, this build/documentation is truly astonishing, I don't think we will see another like it.

[The_Glory]

I did not expect to see my name! Haha, this build/documentation is truly astonishing, I don't think we will see another like it.

Thank you )
You have a very cool project! You also do the body work and painting with your own hands - very cool!
Unfortunately, I do not have such skills and opportunities... but I would like to learn how to do it)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_167_ Front Assembly (First Attempt)

So, I install the front fenders and hood. Everything sounds simple, but in fact - almost a whole day of work together with a body builder! Both front doors had to be installed anew. How tired it is!
But as a result, all gaps are equal and minimal in width, as far as possible.













Finished, all was well... But only until I decided to try the BBS cover on the door! I tried it on - and when the door was fully opened, the pad rubbed against the wing! And the back panel was rubbing against the front door. And so on all four doors! Fiasco!
The gaps are too small - you need to increase them - all over again! ))) The coachbuilder felt dizzy from this! ))) A day of painstaking work - in the ass! ))
It was necessary to install those overlays from the very beginning... Well, we are not looking for easy ways! ))) Although, looking ahead, I will say that the problem was not only in small gaps.
I was going to install the thresholds and BBS pads last, but as practice has shown, you need to start there!
So, further about the installation of thresholds and BBS overlays.

P.S.
There is also good news - finally, the radiator has arrived, I am still waiting for its fasteners and shields.
During this time, I did a little work on the exhaust system - there, too, everything turned out to be not as simple as I would like! ) But more on that later.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_168_Installation of body kit BBS (part 1) - rear apron

So - installation of a BBS body kit.
This is a very rare kit for pre-facelift E30s. I started looking for it piece by piece long before the bodywork started. I have been looking for the whole set for about eight years. By the way, I never found a spoiler, although I don't need it. Unless I buy it, just for the set.
And finally, it's time to install it!
I'll start again from the back! The rear apron took up a lot of space in the garage, so that it wouldn't get in the way and wouldn't scratch it, I installed it at the very beginning of assembling the car. Perhaps you have already noticed him in the photo. Also, I already wrote that I installed stainless steel threaded rivets before painting the car to attach aprons and door sill plates. Therefore, I will use M4 bolts with stainless steel washers and a universal rubber gasket for fastening.


Stainless threaded rivet in the body.


I glued a rubber seal along the contour of the apron.


We insert M4 stainless bolts with washers into the holes.


Six bolts on the rear panel and two bolts on each side in the rear fenders.


Fasten the apron.


done


But it was not possible to do without self-tapping screws! The ends of the wheel arches are very narrow, so neither steel nor plastic rivets fit there. By the way, the BBS manufacturer envisages attaching its body kit to self-tapping screws. Cheap, but angry!
We fix the apron in the rear arches with two self-tapping screws.


Then I replaced them with black ones so that it would not be noticeable ;)


I covered the self-tapping screws from the inside with a non-hardening bitumen-rubber tape. The car will not be driven in winter, so I think corrosion will not appear there very soon... ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_169_Installation of BBS body kit (part 2) - door overlays

Let's go back to body clearances. As I already said, after trying on the linings on the doors, it became clear that when opening all the doors, the linings will rub against the doors and wings. Well, you need to set all the gaps again, and increase them a little. But first you need to install the overlays on the door. They are glued to the body polyurethane sealant. I used APP PU50 sealant. One balloon was enough.
A set of door linings BBS.


Four pieces per door.
Front.




Rear




Two on the front wings.




Two on the rear arches.




So, the essence of the problem turned out to be not so much in small gaps, but in the fact that the lining rested against the decorative moldings and did not fit snugly against the door. Therefore, I had to remove all the moldings.


After that, the pads fell into place and were not rubbed. We degrease the door and glue the overlay. It is important not to seal the drainage channels of the overlays. Fix with masking tape.








done








But, just in case, we increased the gaps by 0.5-1 mm.




The front wings were also moved forward by 0.5-1 mm. By the way, here you can see the difference in the shape of the edge of the wings. Although according to ETK they are all under the same number.


We install the wings on top of the sealant.




We set equal gaps, and fix each with seven self-tapping screws.


Later, it will be necessary to apply sealant to the joint of the wing near the windshield.
In the front part, we connect the wing with the apron under the headlight and under the bumper near the wheel arch.


We screw the wing rib from the inside with two self-tapping screws to the body brackets near the door hinges.
From above.


And from below


We fasten the bottom of the wing with two self-tapping screws.


Now the front drain of the hatch goes here - it is more logical than in the threshold, as it was at the factory.


We re-expose the hood, and we get practically the same and equal gaps on the body.
Left side.








Right side.








This time, the day of painstaking work was not in vain!
Maybe not all the clearances on the body are perfect, but in general it turned out pretty decent, in my opinion.


All doors open normally, nothing rubs.
But everything can't be that simple! ) Now the moldings do not stand, because the edge rests on the glued overlays! I'm going crazy! ))) But that's it, I'll come up with something! ;)

Next, about the threshold overlays.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_170_Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system

There is some delay with the fastening of the sill plates, so I will write about them a little later so as not to return to them later.

And now, since the wings are already installed, you can install one interesting thing. This is an "aftermarket" option for BMW E23, E28 and E30 - the Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system. It was available mainly in France and Austria. The shape of the tank was different for each body. There were two types - for cars without an on-board control system, and for cars with an on-board control system. In the first version, the system has a special oil dipstick with a built-in oil level sensor. In the second option, the system uses the standard oil level sensor of the on-board control system.
So I have a kit for an E30 with on board control system.


The kit includes a plastic tank for three liters of lubricant, a pump, a hose, a special oil dipstick, an ECU and wiring.
A tank with a lid and an oil level dipstick in it.






Pump, hose and dipstick.


ECU with wiring.


The wiring was designed for cars with Jetronic, where the ignition coil is near the air filter, and was also cut off, so I had to make an extension cord with a connector.


The tank is screwed together with the left wing. The wings are already installed. We close the joint of the wing with the body with body sealant (later, I will probably paint it, as it was from the factory). It is important to seal the joint of the body rib and wing with sealant so that it does not get under the hood.


We install side seals. The left seal needs to be cut in the places where the tank is attached.


The same on the right side.




Everything is ready to install the Oil Level Matic. I start by connecting the wiring. I drew the diagram directly on the ETM diagram.


We connect the power supply to the "+15" contact of the ignition coil.


We lay the wiring together with the motor wiring along the motor shield and the left wing to the oil level sensor. I made an additional connector on the motor wiring from the "dynamic" level wire.


We connect it and fix the wiring in clips. For this, it was necessary to remove the air filter housing.



We screw the mass terminal behind the left headlight at point G104 and connect the wiring to the ECU.


The ECU snaps into a special niche at the bottom of the tank. On the bottom of the tank, I glued strips of anti-squeak.


The tank is screwed together with the wing with two self-tapping screws.


We install the pump (in the same way as in the tank of the washer), connect the wiring and hose to it.


We replace the standard oil dipstick with a special one.


The oil level marks on them match (I haven't replaced the oil yet).


Connect the hose to the dipstick.


We fix it with a tape with "Velcro" to other hoses.


The Oil Level Matic automatic oil filling system is installed.


Briefly about the principle of its work.
The tank contains three liters of engine oil. When the oil level in the engine drops to a critical level, the oil level lamp lights up on the standard panel of the on-board control system. The timer of the ECU Oil Level Matic starts counting down the time, and if the lamp does not go out for a while, the ECU turns on the pump and, also according to the timer, adds oil through the oil dipstick tube for 10-15 seconds. After which it turns off. That is, the system works even while the car is moving.
The first type of this system works from its own sensor on the dipstick, and measures the oil level only after the car is stopped and the ignition is turned off. Obviously, the second type has an advantage, because it can work continuously, while moving.
But there is one nuance. The regular oil level sensor, due to its design features, has a certain "inertia". That is, the lamp does not go out immediately after the oil level is restored - the sensor needs some time to measure the oil level. And when the battery is disconnected for a long period of time, this lamp lights up in any case, regardless of the actual oil level. Therefore, in this case, the Oil Level Matic will give you another level of lubrication on top! I've had this happen twice already - I had to drain the excess oil afterwards! ) Also, when disconnecting the battery, it is better to immediately disconnect the Oil Level Matic pump ;) And after connecting the battery, wait until the oil level lamp goes out, and only then connect the pump.
Such an interesting thing! ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_171_Cooling system. (part 1)

Finally, I selected and waited for the radiator, then you can proceed to the ETK section
Cooling system

I have already written about the installation of the oil cooler before. Therefore, now we will talk about the main engine cooling system.
But I remind you that my cooling system is a little not standard, but made by analogy with the BMW E34 cooling system with the M20 engine. Its main difference from the standard system is a radiator with a built-in expansion tank. In my opinion, it has a more aesthetic appearance, without additional hoses and an early archaic expansion tank and radiator. A restyle tank and radiator could be installed, but as you have already seen, I have an automatic oil fill tank installed in its place. Therefore, I decided to leave everything as it was, only to replace the radiator with a larger one for the air conditioner.
Therefore, I do not consider the following ETK sections for cars up to 87.
Water cooling radiator, fan shroud


Although I accidentally ordered one part for mounting this radiator.


Expansion tank


Also I am not looking at the ETK section
Additional electric fan


I have an air conditioner installed that uses a similar electric fan attached to the air conditioner condenser. I have already written about this before. Accordingly, additional brackets for mounting the electric fan are not used in my case.

So, since my cooling system is not standard, and I need to choose a radiator with a built-in expansion tank, but of a larger size, for the air conditioner, I started by comparing the sizes of the radiators.
Radiators are of three types in terms of size, in order of increase - standard, for air conditioning, and for tropical countries.
Early radiators for cars up to 87 do not suit me at all in terms of hose placement.
The radiators for the post-'87 cars don't work for me because they all came with a separate expansion tank for the M20 engine.
Therefore, I considered them purely theoretically, to compare their area.

Water cooling radiator, fan shroud


Although some fastening details are suitable, but more on them later.

The radiators for the BMW E34 with the M20 engine do not suit me, because in the versions for air conditioning and tropical countries they are too wide and physically will not fit in the E30. A standard radiator will fit, but it is too small for an air conditioner.

What is the way out of this situation?
Radiators for BMW E30 with M40 and M42 engines. The variant for tropical countries has a built-in expansion tank and the required width and area.

For the convenience of comparing the sizes and area of ​​radiators, I even made a table - maybe it will be useful to someone too.


It is clearly visible here that the area of ​​the radiator was the largest on early cars. After restyling, it was slightly reduced. A 440x436 mm radiator with an area of ​​0.192 m2 was installed for the air conditioner according to ETK.
What is interesting and not very clear - for the E34, the area of ​​the radiator is even smaller!
But for tropical countries with M40 and M42 engines, a radiator with a built-in expansion tank of similar dimensions of 440x436 mm and an area of ​​0.192 m2 was installed. That's exactly what I ordered.
There was still an idea to buy the same radiator, but for an automatic transmission - suddenly one day I want to install an "automatic machine"! ;) The difference is the presence of two additional fittings for automatic transmission oil cooling hoses. But the required radiator was not available, so we had to abandon this idea. Maybe someday I will return to her again... ;)
I chose among analogues, and as it turned out, there are two types of radiator tube connections - mechanical and welded. Radiators with soldered tubes are of higher quality and more reliable. These are the ones that go in the original. So my choice fell on a Nissens radiator with welded tubes for tropical countries with an M40 engine and a manual gearbox.




Soldered tubes:






Number:




The set includes a plug at the bottom of the tank and a drain plug:


Plug for the connection of the temperature sensor for the air conditioner:


Plug for pumping air:



So, the torment of choosing a radiator is behind you - you can start installing everything!
Accordingly, we consider everything related to the radiator in the ETK section for M40 and M42 engines.
Expansion tank, water cooling radiator




Part No. 1 - coolant radiator (17 11 1 728 907). For tropical countries. I use the Nissens 60623A analog.
Part #2 - expansion tank (17 11 1 712 835) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part #3 - sealing ring D=77.0MM (17 21 1 712 965). - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part #4 - sealing ring D=14.5MM (17 11 1 712 966). - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 5 - cover (17 11 1 712 825) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 6 - bolt M6X16 (17 11 1 719 057) - 2 pcs. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 7 - radiator plug 1.4BAR (17 11 1 742 232) - 1 pc. A similar 1.4BAR plug is used for the M20 engine, but with a new number (17 13 7 639 023). Everyone advises to take the original cork.

Part No. 8 - screw for removing air (17 11 1 712 788) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.

Part No. 9 - threaded plug (17 11 1 712 816) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator. Antifreeze drain plug. Blocks the drain pipe.

Part #10 - double thermal switch 91/99CEL (61 31 1 378 073) - 1 pc. For two speed modes of the electric fan of the air conditioner
Part No. 11 - threaded plug M14X1.5 (07 11 9 919 146) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring A14X18 (07 11 9 963 201) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.

Part No. 13 - coolant level sensor in the radiator L= 95MM (61 31 1 384 739) - 1 pc. I use the MEYLE 3148009018 analogue.
Part No. 14 - ring of round cross-section D=19.3X2.4 (61 31 1 361 249) - 1 pc. Complete with a radiator.
Part No. 15 is a plug, for some reason it is not indicated in the ETK, although it is included with the radiator.


So, we install the radiator cap. The screw and its sealing ring were included with the radiator.


We set the temperature sensor to the contents of the cork. The o-ring was included with the radiator, so I wasted buying it separately. Also installed the original ring.


Instead of the lower plug, we install a coolant level sensor. The sealing ring was in the plug. In addition, the same ring is also included in the sensor kit. I again bought it separately for nothing - now there will be as many as two spare rings.








The radiator is ready for installation.




Next, about the details for its fastening.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_171_Cooling system. (part 2)

It is logical that to mount the M40 radiator, you need to use the mounting parts for the M40. But I nuances.
First, due to the inaccuracy in the ETK, my carelessness, and confusion between the M20 and M40 parts, I bought the wrong shield I needed. The shield should cover the space on the left between the body and the radiator - here:


The M20 shield for the air conditioner (17 11 1 712 829) costs $60 - not adequate, for a piece of plastic, in my opinion. Without an air conditioner, this space is closed with a standard diffuser (51 71 1 939 304).






So at first I wanted to cut it out of the diffuser. Then I noticed in the M40 section a shield (17 11 1 712 828) - for the air conditioner. And its price of $15 is more or less a normal price for a piece of plastic. I ordered it. Two weeks later, this arrived.




I tried it on the radiator and only then did I realize that I needed a tropical climate shield for the M40, not an air conditioner! And this is the same M20 shield for the air conditioner (17 11 1 712 829) for $60 And this one does not fit at all! The trick failed! )))


I already wanted to return to the variant of cutting from the diffuser...


And then he twisted that shield (17 11 1 712 828) in his hands...




I looked at the photo of the shield (17 11 1 712 829) on the Internet...


And I thought - I have never cut new original BMW parts - it's time to start! )))


This is how a shield (17 11 1 712 828) for $15 turns into a shield (17 11 1 712 829) for $60 in this, not tricky, way!




A good start-up for business - bought for $15, cut, - sold for $60! ))) It's a pity that there are not many potential buyers... ))) Sometimes you can only joke about the pricing of BMW parts! But let's get back to the assembly.


Fan Shroud




Part #1 - fan casing (17 11 1 719 249) - 1 pc. Here again is a nuance. The fan shroud for the M40 takes up half the space under the hood! Therefore, of course, for the M20, it will not physically fit between the engine and the radiator.
Width-wise, my old shroud (17 11 1 712 846) was fine, but I wasn't sure if it would fit properly on the impeller, so I left it for now, even though it's broken at the bottom. Later I will buy an M20 casing (17 11 1 712 845) for the air conditioner.
Part #2 - clip (17 11 1 712 963) - 2 pcs.

Part #3 - radiator bracket A=30MM (17 11 1 712 347) - 1 pc. The left lower radiator support for the air conditioner.

Part #4 - radiator bracket 10MM (17 11 1 178 449) - 1 pc. The right lower support of the radiator.
Part No. 5 - rubber buffer (17 11 1 178 4120 - 2 pcs.

The right support is the same for all radiators. The left support depends on the width of the radiator and is of several types. In the photo, the left supports for M20 and M40 radiators, and the right standard support. You can also get confused here...


Part No. 6 - fastening (17 11 1 709 347) - 1 pc. Upper mounting of the radiator.
Part No. 7 - rubber buffer (17 11 1 150 984) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X22 (17 11 1 712 1420 - 2 pcs.

Part No. 9 - shield (17 11 1 712 829) - 1 pc. He is in his first life (17 11 1 712 828)
Part No. 10 - clip D=7.5MM (51 48 1 915 964) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - profile pad L=483MM (17 11 1 719 321) - 1 pc. Rubber seal.


We put the lower buffers on the legs of the radiator.




It is more convenient to install the radiator without a cover.
The lower fastening of the casing


Upper fastening of the casing


We put the rubber gasket (No. 11) on the shield (No. 9).


But we fix the shield with two clips on the body. We snap the left lower support into a special bracket on the body.


We snap the right lower support into a special bracket on the body.


We install the radiator with buffers on the lower supports, align it, and screw the upper and lower hoses to the left.


We connect the connector to the coolant level sensor and fix the wiring with a clip.


We screw the lower hose to the right and connect the connector to the temperature sensor.


We install the upper rubber buffers on the bracket, press the radiator with them and fasten with two self-tapping screws through special holes in the body.


We install the casing in the lower fasteners and fix it with clips in the upper fasteners. But here again something is not clear - the clips are short and are not fixed in the holes.


Maybe it's a matter of a non-original radiator... When replacing the casing, I'll pick up some other clips, but for now I fixed it with ties.
The radiator is installed.




Put the air filter housing and other parts that were removed back in place. Almost everything is installed under the hood.




Almost everything...


It remains to install fuel injectors and exhaust manifolds.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_172_ETK_11_Engine. Cylinder head

Well, to finally start the engine, you need to install the exhaust system and exhaust manifolds. So, let's go back to assembling the engine. Namely, to ETK sections

Cylinder head - additional elements


Cylinder head




Part No. 18 - installation pin (07 12 9 908 134) - 12 pcs.

The cylinder head had been completely rebuilt a long time ago, so I didn't do anything to it other than give it a good cleaning on the outside. But six pins of the exhaust manifolds had to be replaced.
By the way, I took the pins from another cylinder head, which a goat sold me a long time ago, as a fully working one.
But after its disassembly and defecting, a crack appeared in it, so then I decided to completely restore my cylinder head - maybe it's for the better! ;) And this one was lying around in the garage like junk. I also washed her with it.







Crack:




Regarding its repair, the opinions of the masters were divided at the time - some say that you can try to weld the crack and everything will be fine, while others say that the crack after welding can go further along the body... So then I didn't start playing this lottery, but completely rebuilt his cylinder head. And maybe I'll try to weld this one someday... or maybe it's not worth it... If someone can give me some advice on this matter, I'll be grateful.

So, six pins are installed. I treated all the pins with copper grease.


Now I can install exhaust manifolds.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_173_ETK_11_Engine. Exhaust manifold

At this point there should be a record about "tuning"! )) But he won't be there.
If you remember, I already wrote that I bought a beautiful and shiny new Turbo Works stainless steel exhaust manifold - it's like a Chinese copy of the Supersprint...


And it seemed to fit the engine more or less normally... almost normally... )


But his first fitting on the engine, already installed on the car, showed something completely different!


That's the maximum I could fit it in there! )))




Its pipes rested on the spar, on the oil filter pipes, one on the other, and on the gearbox.


The X-pipe, which was in the kit, could not be installed at the same time.




Although, if it fit, it would look beautiful! ;)


Of course, if you really wanted to, you could cut that collector, bend it again, then weld it, and finally, push it in! But I had neither the desire nor the opportunity. That's why I sold it.
By the way, a teammate had exactly the same story with the same collector. But I heard that it somehow fits on the E34 with the M20.
So, the Chinese "tuning" had to be abandoned! And such a thing!...
For now, I will install the factory collectors, and then we will see... ;)

Exhaust manifold




Part No. 1 - front exhaust manifold (11 62 1 710 834) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - threaded plug CM8X1 (07 11 9 919 210) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 3 - sealing ring A8X11.5-AL (07 11 9 963 041) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 4 - rear exhaust manifold (11 62 1 710 825) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M8 nut (11 62 1 711 954) - 12 pcs. Copper nut FEBI 03687.

Part No. 6 - sealing gasket with heat shield (11 62 1 723 655) - 2 pcs. I use ELRING 495900.


Part No. 7 - mounting pin M10X40 (11 62 1 716 870) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8 - sealing gasket (11 76 1 711 717) - 2 pcs. I use FEBI 01610.
Part #9 - nut M10 (18 30 1 737 774) - 6 pcs. Copper nut TRUCKTEC 0839054.


The collectors were sandblasted and painted with heat-resistant zinc paint.
Screw the threaded plugs (No. 2) with sealing rings (No. 3) into special holes on the collectors. I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that these holes are used to measure CO2 in the engine exhaust. But why do you need two more threaded holes - I don't know. If anyone knows, please let me know.
There was no point in unscrewing the pins (#7) from the collectors. Therefore, they are already installed on the collectors - we put gaskets (No. on them and tighten the nuts (No. 9).


We put gaskets with heat shields (No. 6) on the studs, install and fasten the collectors with copper nuts (No. 5).

Previously, the pins were treated with copper grease.


Exhaust manifolds are installed. Now I can install the exhaust system.

P.S.
And what about "tuning"?! - you say... ))
Somehow so. ;)


Of course, not as beautiful as shiny china However, everything fit perfectly!
The real "old school" for BMW E30 with M20 - Sebring.


Exactly such equal-length collectors were installed on the BMW E30 AC Schnitzer.
It doesn't look very attractive right now, but I hope I can revive it! There will be a separate post about this later. Then I will think about a new exhaust system with a beautiful sound... But for now, everything will remain as it was before.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_174_ETK_13_Valves, pipelines of the intake system

To finally complete the engine assembly, you need to install the fuel injectors.
So, back to the ETK section
Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture

The last unit
Valves, pipelines of the intake system




Part No. 1 - distribution main (13 53 1 717 073) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 913 442) - 4 pcs. Fastening of the distribution main.
Part #3 - BOSCH injector (13 64 1 734 776) - 6 pcs. Fuel injectors BOSCH 280 150 715.
Part No. 4 - ring of round section 7.52X3.53 (13 64 1 730 767) - 13 pcs. I use rubber rings BOSCH 1 280 210 752. 2 pcs. for each nozzle and 1 pc. on the fuel pressure regulator.
Part No. 5 - bracket (13 53 1 274 729) - 6 pcs. For fixing nozzles in the distribution line.

Part #6 - pressure regulator 3.0BAR (13 53 1 711 541) - 1 pc.

Part No. 7 - bolt with washer M6X12 (07 11 9 915 033) - 2 pcs. Fastening of the fuel pressure regulator.
Part #8 - vacuum hose Schwarz 3.5X1.8 (11 72 7 545 323) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - fuel hose 32MM-210MM (13 31 1 288 284) - 1 pc. Instead of shaped hoses, I use solid Gates 8x13mm hoses. I already wrote about them earlier in the sections on the fuel system.
Part No. 10 - connecting element (13 31 1 713 470) - 1 pc. It is used to connect two shaped hoses. In my case, it is not used, as I do not see the point of cutting a whole fuel line in order to connect it later with clamps.
Part No. 11 (No. 14) is a fuel pulsation damper, not used. It was installed only on Jetronic. On Motronic, they began to be installed near the fuel pump - I wrote about them in the corresponding section. Part No. 10 is installed in its place.
Part No. 12 - fuel hose 561MM-920MM (13 31 1 722 565) - 1 pc. Instead of shaped hoses, I use solid Gates 8x13mm hoses. I already wrote about them earlier in the sections on the fuel system.
Part No. 13 (No. 15) is a similar fuel hose, but for some reason it is not listed in the ETK.
Part No. 16 - clamp (07 12 9 952 104) - 4 pcs. If you use regular connecting elements, then you need 10 such clamps. As I already said, I don't see the point in this. Therefore, I only have four of them, and two of them have already been installed before, along with the fuel supply and return hoses.
Part No. 17 - wire holder (61 13 8 380 213) - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - fuel hose bracket (13 31 1 714 455) - 1 pc. Similar to No. 17, but with a metal bracket for mounting.
Part No. 19 - 2-POL connector housing (12 52 1 706 121) - 6 pcs. Connector of fuel injectors, gray color for 2 foams. I wrote about this in the section on motor wiring.
Part No. 20 - protective cap L=12.5MM (61 13 1 358 330) - 6 pcs. Rubber protective cap for fuel injector connectors. I wrote about this in the section on motor wiring.
Part No. 21 - connecting part (13 31 1 709 577) - 1 pc. It is used to connect two shaped hoses. In my case, it is not used, as I do not see the point of cutting a whole fuel line in order to connect it later with clamps.

So, let's start with the injectors. They were in the box for several years, so they needed to be checked and cleaned before installation.


First outside.




And then on a special stand for washing nozzles. For this, I bought a repair kit for injectors. It includes rubber rings, plastic washers, tips and filters. I bought rubber rings BOSCH 1 280 210 752 earlier, separately.


Repair kit number in the photo.


After replacing the filters, washing, and replacing the repair kit, the injectors are ready for installation.






Fuel injectors BOSCH 280 150 715.




The nozzles are tightly inserted into the distribution line and fixed with a clamp. The bracket fits into the lower groove on the nozzle body. The upper grooves may be used on some other cars.


Before installation, you need to lubricate the rubber rings.


The nozzles are installed on the main line.




Fixation of nozzles with staples.




I read on the Internet that in order to install a distribution line with injectors, you need to remove the intake manifold, valve cover, or file something on them... I was scared to death by such a prospect! ))) But all this is stupid!
To install a line with injectors, it is enough to remove the intake manifold bracket and the crankcase ventilation hose. Then we introduce the main line from the front part under the collector, and carefully push it back. At the same time, the nozzles should be located horizontally towards the left wing. When the pipeline is completely under the collector, we turn it 90 degrees and install the nozzles in the holes of the collector. Also, do not forget to lubricate the rubber rings before watering. Not very convenient, but everything fell into place.


We fasten the main with four bolts to the collector.




We connect the motor wiring to the injectors, according to the length of the wires. By the way, in later versions, the wiring and nozzle connectors are mounted in one plastic strip, and are a separate part of the motor wiring.


I have separate connectors for each injector.


We screw back the intake coektor bracket and the crankcase ventilation hose.


We screw the fuel pressure regulator to the main line, and connect its hose to the collector.




On the other hand, connect the fuel return hose to the regulator.


We fix the hose with a holder (#17) to the air filter housing - I'm not sure if it was done that way from the factory, but I couldn't find another place for it.


With a similar holder, but with a metal bracket (No. 18), we fix the fuel supply hose to the brake master cylinder mount. I installed it earlier, along with the vacuum brake booster.


There, I connected the supply and return hoses together with a special clamp - I wrote about this recently.
We connect the supply hose to the inlet of the distribution main.


As I said - instead of several separate original hoses, I used solid hoses, without additional connections - I think it will be more reliable and safer for the fuel system.


The fuel injectors are installed and connected.


Well, now the engine is completely assembled and ready for a test run.












Almost ready. It is still necessary to change the oil and fill with antifreeze. Well, install the exhaust system.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_175_Installing the BBS body kit (part 3) - sill plates

For now, I will continue installing the BBS body kit - sill plates.






A special plastic strip is used to attach the plates.


It is screwed to the body, and the sill trim is inserted into its groove. Additionally, for fixation and sealing, I glued butyl rubber tape to the strip.


As I already said, to attach the body kit, even before painting the car, I installed stainless threaded rivets. I screwed the strip to them with stainless bolts.




First fitting, - it seems normal, you can glue.




We glue the trim to the strip on the sealant. We install the rear small trim on the wheel arch on the sealant. We fix it from the end with self-tapping screws.


The front part of the lining is screwed to the front wing.




It is also fixed with self-tapping screws on the end of the wheel arch.


Only after this can the front lining be installed on the wing. It is inserted into the grooves in the sill lining, and closes its attachment to the wing.








It is important to immediately wash off the sealant residue from the joints before it dries. You will need a lot of rags.
Done.








I replaced the screws with black ones so they weren't so noticeable ) I covered them with butyl rubber on the inside so they wouldn't rust as much.




The upper joint of the pads looks quite neat.


There is a significant expansion in the rear. Miniwidebody


The lower mounting of these BBS pads is absolutely identical to the mounting of the original factory M-Technic I pads. It is possible that the original plastic clips (51 71 1 933 125) were used for it, or something very similar. My lower mounting kit did not have one, so I measured the dimensions and made a sketch of the clip.


My friend made a 3D model of it and printed them on a printer. You need 8 pieces in total.
I used 4.2x19 self-tapping screws and washers made of stainless steel.


We install the clamp on the inner metal edge of the threshold, and screw the cover to it.




The screw passes under the metal edge and presses the cover to the threshold.


In the back there are two more such clamps - a total of 4 pieces on each side.
The BBS sill plates are aligned and now fully secured.




All that remains is to install the BBS front apron.

P.S.
And I still don't know what to do with the moldings. At first they interfered with installing the plates, and now the plates interfere with installing the moldings... That's it! )

[The_Glory]

Assembly_176_Installing the BBS body kit (part 4) - front apron

In the section about fog lights, I already wrote and showed that the headlights are not installed in the factory frames, but directly in the BBS apron. So, now I install the apron together with the fog lights.
By analogy with the rear apron, I glued a rubber seal in the places where it adjoins the metal apron. It will also be attached in the same way - with stainless bolts in threaded rivets that were installed before the car was painted.




The apron lay for a long time and bent a little, so I had to warm it up with an industrial hair dryer and straighten it a little. This is the "plus" of this material - although it loses its shape if it lies for a long time and sags, it very easily restores its shape with not much heating.


Threaded rivets - two on each side.


Two near each spar, and one in the center.


First I screwed in the center, and then to each side, pressing and bending the apron.




From the end of the wheel arch we fix it with one self-tapping screw. From the inside, I covered the self-tapping screw with butyl rubber so that it rusts less.


Done.




After installing the lower plastic protective shield, the lower edge of the apron will still be screwed to it.

And now the nuance with the tow loops. If you noticed, the BBS designers decided that only one tow loop on the right would be enough, so they closed it tightly on the left!


And on the right, they left a large cutout opposite the loop.


To be honest, I don't really understand how to use this loop now... we'll see... Of course, there was a cover for this cutout. But I didn't have one, so I had to make it myself. 3D printing came to the rescue. On the third try, I found the right size.




It turned out pretty well.


And here's the most interesting thing - the fastening of this cover.
Once upon a time, when I bought the first such BBS apron, there was the same cutout for the loop, and on its sides were glued Velcro fasteners! In the photo from the Internet, there was no such cutout on the machines. That's a "collective farm", - apparently someone cut the hole themselves, and then closed it with a Velcro flap. So then I blew it! )) And I decided to do it more carefully. I glued that hole, and inserted the original small square plug from the front bumper there. I cut off the towing eye, and welded a large nut in its place, and made a threaded hook for towing - like on restyled cars. It was very convenient to use.


And it looked pretty good - not noticeable, as if it were supposed to be.


Then I bought another such BBS apron, in much better condition, and for cars with an oil radiator (with additional slots in the center). And what was my surprise when I saw exactly the same cutout for the loop and Velcro fasteners on its sides! )))

Something is wrong here, I thought, and started looking for a photo on the Internet. )) And one day I saw a new BBS apron for sale on eBay. And it has the same cutout and Velcro fasteners! )) NEW! I even saved that photo! )


That is, this is such a simple and non-standard factory solution! )) Although it looks "collective farm"! ))
By the way, the photo shows how the apron deforms if stored incorrectly for a long time. Fortunately, it easily straightens when heated. This is from my own experience.

Another nuance - the photo shows a package with fasteners. And in the package - black self-tapping screws and ties! ))


I guess back then no one really cared about that mount and all sorts of threaded rivets, clips and clamps - everything is simple and cheap - on self-tapping screws! ))

So, I hesitated for a long time - to make a plug in the same way on this apron, or to leave everything as the BBS designers intended...
I decided to leave everything as it was from the factory. )


During welding work, the right towing eye was turned. But they probably made it a little shorter, so it will be difficult to use it...


Velcro fasteners, even in the color of the car )


It seems to be holding up well.


And it looks good.


So the BBS front apron is installed.






Accordingly, the entire BBS kit is installed.
Except for the rear spoiler. I will keep the Breyton spoiler, I like it better. But if I find a BBS spoiler, I will buy it for the complete set.

P.S.
And about the screws! )) In my old photo above, BBS sill plates are installed, but from an earlier set. As you can see, they are simply screwed to the body with screws. I was often criticized for this, and people made remarks to me that it is a "collective farm", etc.
But, on the same eBay I found a photo of the same NEW set.


With instructions for mounting.


And what do we see there? Screw mounts! )) And screws are included! Exactly the same ones that I used for the clamps now. )


So, attaching body kits from those times with self-tapping screws is not "collective farm", but "oldschool"! )))

[The_Glory]

Assembly_177_ETK_51_Body Trim. Decorative Grille

Back to the ETK section
Body Trim

Finally, I can install the decorative grilles.
Decorative grille




Part No. 1 - decorative grille, medium - 1 pc. There are three types:
Grille for air conditioning (51 13 1 945 877) - with slots along the entire height of the grille. For cars with air conditioning, or for countries with a tropical climate.
Standard grille (51 13 1 884 350) - with slots not for the entire height of the grille.
Winter grille (51 13 1 916 504) - a "blank" grille, without slots. For winter operation, or for countries with a cold climate.

I have all three types, but now I will install an air conditioner grille. I also have another "aftermarket" option - the KAMEI grille, I may write about it later.
All types of grilles in the original were only chrome-plated, even in the "Shadow line" package. But I made myself a black grille a long time ago and in body color. Accordingly, now I painted one in body color. The KAMEI grille will be black. I will change them according to my mood, along with the headlight rings! ;)
The winter grille will not work now - this car will not be driven in the winter. It will just be for the collection.


Part No. 2 - decorative grille left (51 13 1 876 091) - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - decorative grille right (51 13 1 876 092) - 1 pc.
Depending on the year of manufacture and engine model, the left and right grilles have different shapes and sizes of slots. After restyling, they have an additional cutout on top for access to the parking light bulbs. For the US market, the grilles have additional cutouts in the upper edge for replacing headlight bulbs.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST3.9X13 (07 14 7 202 502) - 4 pcs. Side grille mounting, - two pieces on the left and right grilles.
Part No. 5 - tip 12X6.3 (51 13 1 840 154) - 4 pcs. Clip for mounting side grilles, - two pieces on the left and right grilles.
Part No. 6 - bracket (51 13 1 872 146) - 8 pcs. Top mounting of side and middle grilles.

Part No. 7 - decorative grille left (51 13 1 904 571) and right (51 13 1 904 572) - 2 pcs. Upper ventilation grilles.
Part No. 8 - bracket (51 13 1 904 575) - 6 pcs. Upper ventilation grilles fastening.
Part No. 9 - fog light hole plug left (51 71 1 933 767) and right (51 71 1 933 768) - 2 pcs. Before 85, the plugs were plastic, and from 85 to 87, they were metal. Not interchangeable. In my case, they are not used, since fog lights are installed.
Part No. 10 - bracket (51 71 1 933 759). Not used.
Part No. 11 - air intake for restyled cars. Not used in this case.
Part No. 12 - adhesive tape 15X15 (51 13 1 916 525) - 2 pcs. Grille seal. I cut them out of similar material, because their price is too high, in my opinion.
Part No. 13...15 - air intake and its mount for restyled cars. Not used in this case.

We insert three brackets on the upper grilles. Although, for some reason, 8 pieces are indicated in the ETK - this is a mistake.


Then we tightly snap the grilles into the holes for supplying air to the interior heater. Right grille.


The left grille has a hole for the left windshield wiper. For right-hand drive cars, on the contrary, there is a hole in the right grille.


By the way, the grille also serves as a decorative cover for the wiper axis. The cover had to be removed because the grille did not fit in its place. And this cover is used only for the central wiper axis. I searched in vain for another one


The upper ventilation grilles are installed.


We install the middle grille. At the bottom, it simply hooks onto the edge of the apron, and at the top, it is inserted into a special hole with a pin.


We fix it from above with two staples (No. 6). I glued a transparent protective film under the staples so that the staples would not peel off the paint.


We glue the seals (№12) on the side grilles. The headlight washer nozzles are already installed on the grilles.


We insert the clips (№5) into the special holes in the front apron. We pull out the headlight washer hose.


We connect the hose to the headlight washer nozzle.


Install and align the grille. Screw it in with two self-tapping screws (No. 4) from below.


Fix it from above with three brackets (No. 6), - above each headlight, and near the middle grille. I glued a transparent protective film under the brackets so that the brackets do not peel off the paint.


Similarly with the right grille.


The decorative grilles are installed. Now I can install the headlight wiper blades that I wrote about earlier.
Left


Right


Finally, the front end is completely assembled!


Beautiful face! I like it!


All that's left is to install the bumpers. But first, they need to be painted. They used to be black, but in the original "Shadow line" package they were painted in the body color.

P.S.
I almost forgot an important date!

Production date 1984-11-02

My E30 has an anniversary - 40 years! Now it's a real "oldtimer"!
As a gift for her, just in time, there will be a BBS body kit - in it the grandmother looks younger and more beautiful! )) And the face turned out very cute! ))

[The_Glory]

Assembly_178_ETK_18_Exhaust system (preparation)

So, it's time to deal with the exhaust system. As I wrote earlier, I had to abandon the idea of ​​installing a Chinese equal-length exhaust manifold Turbo Works made of stainless steel, for the reason that it physically did not fit the E30.
I also mentioned that I bought an original equal-length exhaust manifold Sebring, but it still needs to be brought into proper condition.
Therefore, I decided to postpone the "tuning" until better times, and for now, install my old exhaust system, without changes. Just clean and paint it. It looked like this.


I replaced the rear part almost immediately after buying the car, somewhere in 2010-2012. It was a new analogue of the muffler from the Polish manufacturer Polmostrov. What can I say about it now - great! After 12-14 years it looks quite decent, practically without corrosion.


In the front part, I then cut out the catalyst, and installed a double straight-flow stainless steel stronger in its place, also from the Polish manufacturer AWG. The stronger is also preserved in excellent condition.


Then the "masters" welded hooks directly to the muffler, instead of the factory clamps, and welded the entire line into one piece. I don't know why I agreed to it then... probably out of stupidity! )) But, we have what we have.. )
And the front part was "repaired" by the previous owners of the car... They replaced the corrugation with a regular pipe insert. Apparently after that, the flanges started to come off. They welded "crutches" to the flange. After that, the joint of the pipe insert cracked )) I've wanted to do something about it for a long time, but I still couldn't get my hands on it. My friend even gave me the front part with the corrugation in good condition. But it's still lying around with me. Now maybe I'll replace it. Or maybe I'll just replace the whole system.... we'll see...
I couldn't unscrew the lambda probe, and there was no point in doing so. I put a new one in then, I hope it still works fine...


So, for now, I'm just cleaning the surface mechanically with brushes.




Then sandblast


Much better. Found only three tiny holes in the welds. Welded them.




After that, I treated it with a rust converter, and degreased it with anti-silicone before painting.




I painted it with heat-resistant zinc paint in two layers.








Almost like new! )

Now about the mount. To the gearbox, the pipes were screwed using some homemade bracket. I found the original bracket. Moreover, they are different for the version with and without a catalyst. I had a catalyst. Therefore, I bought a bracket specifically for this option.




Of course, I sanded and galvanized. At the same time, some other details too.


I have the rear mount welded directly to the muffler. Just in case, I found and bought the original clamps for mounting the muffler. But, as it turned out, they are also different for a system with and without a catalyst.
I mistakenly bought one for a system without a catalyst.






The muffler is a little smaller, so the clamps don't fit very well.




I'm not sure if I can install a muffler on them, but just in case, I sanded them, primed them, and painted them.




And one more detail - a protective shield for the lambda probe (11 78 1 710 590).


I didn't have it at all. The new one is no longer available for order. Oddly enough, I couldn't find it in any of the flea markets, although it was installed on almost all E30, E32, E34... Where did they all go, I don't understand... If someone has an extra one, I would buy it. So, I asked a friend to measure its dimensions, and made it myself from galvanized sheet metal.
It turned out quite similar, as far as I'm concerned! ;)




I used the clamp that is used to fix the rear drain hoses of the hatch (54 12 1 874 589) - I just had extra ones left.
It fit perfectly, it fixes clearly and firmly.


So, the exhaust system and its mounts are ready for installation.
More on installing it on the car.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_179_ETK_18_Exhaust system with catalyst. Front part

For the M20B25 engine, there are two types of exhaust systems - without a catalyst and with a catalyst.
Exhaust system

They differ both in design and in mounting. Both systems consist of two parts - front and rear.
I have a system with a catalyst installed. Although, I stupidly cut out the catalyst and replaced it with stronger ones, and the entire system was combined into one whole.
So, the front part of the exhaust system with a catalyst.
Exhaust system with catalyst




Part #1 - catalyst intake pipe (11 76 1 716 743) - 1 pc. In my case, the catalyst was replaced with a double stronger one.

Part No. 2 - copper nut M10 (18 30 1 737 774) - 6 pcs. I use TRUCKTEC 0839054 nuts
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (11 76 1 711 7170 - 2 pcs. I use FEBI 01610
Part No. 4 - manual transmission intake pipe bracket (11 76 1 716 360) - 1 pc. Consists of two parts. For the version without a catalyst and for automatic transmission, the fastening is different.
Part No. 5 - A8.4 washer (33 31 1 108 205) - 2 pcs. Fasteners to the gearbox.
Part No. 6 - M8X20 bolt (07 11 9 903 039) - 2 pcs. Fasteners to the gearbox.
Part No. 7 - M8X25 bolt (07 11 9 915 171) - 1 pc. Fasteners pipes. The thread in the bracket was damaged, so I cut a new M10 thread, and replaced the bolt with M10X25.
Part No. 8 - bolt M8X35 (07 11 9 913 676) - 1 pc. Bracket mounting.
Part No. 9 - washer A8.4 (33 31 1 108 205) - 2 pcs. Bracket mounting.
Part No. 10 - hinge bushing D=8MM (18 20 7 546 579) - 4 pcs. Rubber bushing of the bracket.
Part No. 11 - nut M8 (07 12 9 964 675) - 2 pcs. Mounting bracket.

Part No. 12...No. 15 - not used.
Part No. 16 - lambda probe 4-POL/540MM (11 78 1 716 114) - 1 pc. For restyled cars after 87 has a different connector.

Part No. 17 - protective casing (11 78 1 710 590) - 1 pc.

The original shield is no longer available for order. I couldn't find it at flea markets either, so I made it myself I already wrote about it last time.

If someone has an original one, I would buy it.
Part No. 18, No. 19 - are not used. The error in the ETK is the mount for fixing the lambda probe connector for restyled cars.
Part No. 20 - terminal D=6MM (63 12 1 364 431) - 1 pc. Plastic clip for fixing the lambda probe wiring.
Part No. 21 - terminal D=4.5MM (61 13 1 353 865) - 1 pc. Metal clip for fixing the lambda probe wiring.
Part No. 22...No. 26 - in my case is not used, since the front and rear parts of the exhaust system are combined into one whole.

We fasten the intake pipe to the exhaust manifolds with copper nuts (No. 2).


It is not very convenient to fasten, because of these "crutches" and welds. But this is temporary, I have hope ;)


We install the metal clip (No. 21) on the protective shield (No. 17).




The lambda probe is already installed on the intake pipe, so we snap the protective cover onto it.




We fix the lambda probe wiring in the metal clip (No. 21).


On the engine shield, insert the clip (No. 20) into the plastic nut, and fix the wiring in it.


In addition, I fixed the wiring on another such nut.


Connect the lambda probe connector to the engine wiring under the body platform.


Assemble the bracket, through the rubber bushings.






We fasten the bracket to the gearbox with two bolts.




We fasten the pipe to the bracket with one bolt. The mount on the pipe was already homemade, so it didn't match the hole on the bracket. I had to make a temporary "adapter".


So, the front part of the exhaust system is fixed. This is all temporary, I hope that after the car leaves, I will redo it all at the exhaust system repair shop.

More about the rear part of the exhaust system.

P.S.
Exhaust systems without a catalyst have a different design and mounting parts. There are also two types.
Preparation for a catalyst.

Without a catalyst.


Accordingly, I do not consider them.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_180_ETK_18_Exhaust system with catalyst. Rear part

Rear exhaust system




Part #1 - rear additional muffler (18 10 1 705 783) - 1 pc. I have the Polish analogue Polmostrov installed.

Part No. 2 - rubber ring (18 21 1 105 635) - 1 pc. I use the BOSAL 255766 analogue
Part No. 3 - intake pipe bracket (18 21 1 712 511) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - bolt with washer M8X16 (07 11 9 913 214) - 1 pc. Bracket attachment to the rear beam.

Part No. 5 - bracket (18 20 1 707 925) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 6 - bracket (18 20 1 178 132) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 7 - bracket (18 21 1 176 029) - 2 pcs. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 8 - nut with a collar M8 (07 11 9 927 022) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rubber ring (18 21 1 712 838) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 10 - exhaust pipe nozzle 60 MM, chrome (82 11 9 401 456), or black (82 11 9 401 457) - 2 pcs. I have decided not to buy nozzles yet, since I still do not fully understand what the exhaust system will be like after its replacement. If I install nozzles, then black ones - in the general "shadow line" style.

There are clamps for mounting the muffler in the photo, but there is a nuance. As it turned out, for an exhaust system without a catalyst, they are slightly smaller, because the muffler is narrower there. There are also structural differences - one of them consists of three parts, and the second - of two. Due to my carelessness, I bought just such clamps.
Exhaust system without catalyst





Part No. 4 - clamp (118 21 1 707 923) - 1 pc. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 5 - clamp (18 21 1 176 713) - 2 pcs. Clamp for mounting the muffler.
Part No. 6 - rear muffler bracket (18 21 1 176 033) - 1 pc. Muffler mounting clamp.
Part No. 7 - M8 flange nut (07 11 9 927 022) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 9 - clamp (18 21 1 176 712) - 1 pc. Muffler mounting clamp.


The muffler for the exhaust system with a catalyst is wider, so the clamps do not fit very well.




I'm not sure if I can install them. So for now, I'll temporarily install the muffler on the old mount that's welded directly to the muffler. I'll try to find the right clamps for the exhaust system with a catalytic converter, and install them when I replace it.
But to hang the muffler on those rubber rings, you need a helper and a lift. Because I couldn't do it myself, lying on the floor, no matter how hard I tried... So again - temporary mounting...


So, the exhaust system is installed temporarily, on a temporary mounting, - so that the car can drive itself to the exhaust system service center, where everything will be redone. I hope that this will be done as soon as possible after the car leaves.

Now everything is ready for the first test run of the engine. I will fill in new oil, antifreeze, and soon I will try...

[The_Glory]

Assembly_181. ETK_41_Body (Front wing) continued

At the beginning of the assembly, I wrote about the ETK section
Front wing


I also wrote about its details. Then I temporarily installed the wings. And now, finally, they are installed permanently, on sealant.






Top mount with seven screws.


Bottom mount with two screws.


Rear mount with two screws.




Front mounting with one self-tapping screw under the headlight, and one self-tapping screw under the bumper, near the wheel arch.


The top joint of the wing with the body, and the joint of the engine shield rib must be covered with body sealant. Otherwise, water will get under the hood. Later, I will paint the sealant in the body color, as it was from the factory.


Installing the hood seal and fender seals.




For the BMW E30 M3 Evo III, additional rubber seals were glued to the fenders to close the gap between the fender and the hood.
Left seal (51 71 2 233 121) and right seal (51 71 2 233 122). They are unreasonably expensive - 60 Euros apiece, so maybe someday I'll pick up something similar - they look better.
Now you can also install protective fenders.


Mounting for them.


Plastic clips are inserted into special square holes on the body. During welding work, the master thought it was easier to weld a pin than to make a square hole . Therefore, instead of a clip and a screw, I will have a pin and a plastic nut at the bottom - like on the upper mount. I think this is not critical.


The top two studs.


The front two mounting plates for self-tapping screws.


I covered the self-tapping screws that secure the BBS body kit from the inside with rubber sealant.


We install the plastic shield, screw it into the clip at the bottom with a plastic nut and a self-tapping screw.


We fasten two plastic nuts from above.


We fasten one self-tapping screw from the front.


The second self-tapping screw and the hole in the shield are for attaching the lower plastic shield. It will be installed later, since first I will need to install the air conditioning compressor


and the power steering pump.


On the left, everything is similar.








The fog lights are already installed and connected. It was necessary to somehow fix the outside temperature sensor for the on-board computer. Since I don't have a standard front spoiler and standard restyled air ducts, there is no place to install the sensor. There is also no place for it in the BBS apron. So, I had to come up with something on the spot. The hole in the front apron for attaching the standard spoiler was a great fit for the sensor.


On the other hand, I put a rubber ring (13 64 1 730 767) for fuel injectors on the sensor - it fit perfectly and fixed the sensor in the hole. The sensor was perfectly positioned.


Later, this will still be covered with the lower plastic shield.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_182. ETK_3_Replacement lamp block

I have already written about lighting parts a long time ago. In ETK there is a replacement lamp block (72 60 8 361 986) - part number 19 on the diagram.


In ETK it is also in the section
Retrofitting, accessories

Spare bulb box


Part #1 - spare bulb box

It has not been available for order for a long time, so it is difficult to find it (photo from the Internet).


There are even later versions, but they are also no longer available, or are sold on eBay for $50-150 - very expensive, in my opinion. For example, such a block.


But recently, a colleague in the club offered me a new lamp block for a symbolic amount of money, which visually looks very similar to the original. I bought it, just in case - it looks like the original option, and may be suitable for its intended purpose! ;)


The lamps are not quite what you need.


So I re-equipped the unit with the necessary spare bulbs and fuses.


It will be in the trunk just in case. ;)


P.S.
Today I pick up my order with all the necessary technical fluids and lubricants, fill it in, and I will try to start the engine. I still need to buy some gasoline, because it definitely won't start!

[The_Glory]

Assembly_183. ETK_83_Technical and auxiliary materials

So, the ETK section
Technical and auxiliary materials

There is only one subsection in it
Transmission oil




Part No. 1, No. 2 - not used.
Part No. 3 - manual transmission oil SAE 80 1000ML, TU (81 22 9 401 225).
Part No. 4 - manual transmission oil SAE 80 1000ML, TU (81 22 9 401 220).

As you can see, there is also an option with automatic transmission oil. In the manual transmission section, I already wrote that Dexron II automatic transmission oil can also be used for manual transmissions. Such manual transmissions have an orange sticker with the inscription "ATF Oil". But, this is mainly on later models. My manual transmission never had such a sticker, so although I thought about switching to ATF, I still decided not to experiment and left the usual transmission oil, which I always poured.

A set of technical fluids for E30 M20B25 with manual transmission.




As you can see, the volume of liquids is not small! And there is still no freon for the air conditioner.
Although, I bought all the liquids, of course, with a small margin.
Coolant - blue antifreeze HEPU G11, 5l x 3.


Engine oil - Q8 10W40, 4l x 2.
Manual transmission oil - Q8 80W90, 1l x 2.
Power steering oil - Q8 ATF Dexron III, 1l x 2.
Limited gear oil - Castrol LSD 75W140, 1l x 2.


Brake fluid - TEXTAR DOT 4, 1l x 2.
Windscreen washer concentrate - LIQUI MOLY 1:100, 0.25l.
Distilled water for windshield washer, 5l.
Gasoline A-95 EVRO, 20l.


So, I poured oil into the gearbox before installing it. But for some reason I didn't pour it into the manual transmission. Probably out of stupidity! ) Now, it's very inconvenient to do this on a car, especially without a lift. So I had to look for a "special tool".


But even with it, lying under the car, it was very inconvenient. So, I had to look for a hose for it, and an assistant, and thus pour oil into the gearbox.


Then I replaced the oil in the engine, filled it with antifreeze and gasoline. Now everything is absolutely ready for a test run of the engine! ;)

I will fill in the brake fluid and power steering fluid after installing the brake calipers and pump. And the washer fluid, right before leaving the garage ;)

P.S.
I took the volumes of all technical fluids from the factory instructions for the BMW E30 325i. If someone doesn't have it, it might be useful.

Fuel tank (until 87, or for diesel) - 55l
Fuel tank (after 87, except diesel) - 63l
Windscreen washer tank - 3l
Intensive glass cleaning tank (option) - 1l
Rear windshield washer tank (touring) - 2.5l
Cooling system - 10.5l
Cooling system with air conditioning (option) - 11l
Engine oil (with filter) - 4.75l
Engine oil (without filter) - 4.5l
Automatic engine oil refill tank (aftermarket option) - 3l
Manual transmission oil - 1.25l
Automatic transmission oil - 3l
Transfer box oil (325ix) - 0.5l
Front gear oil (325ix) - 0.7l
Rear gear oil (188 type) - 1.7l
Power steering fluid - 1.2l
Brake fluid - 1.2l
Air conditioner freon 850-900g

[The_Glory]

Gentlemen, start your engines!

The day has come! Finally, a test run of the engine!
For the sake of such a long-awaited event, I even washed the car from dust! )


On the outside, all that remains is to paint and install the front and rear bumpers, and return the moldings to the doors.








The oil has been changed, antifreeze has been added.


First test of the engine wiring, so far without gasoline )
https://youtube.com/shorts/pBc7gBI_a4Q

The starter turns - that's good! ) I fill it with gasoline and try again - let's get it started! ;)
https://youtube.com/shorts/8WhF_SM4ej8

That's it!... As it turned out - there is no power to the fuel pump, injectors, or spark plugs... I'm starting to look for where it went... Directly, with a jumper instead of a relay, the pump works, and pumps normally. The idle speed regulator valve also starts to buzz if you put a jumper. I thought that the main relay was not working. I'm trying to start with a 30-87 jumper. oops, i did it again...
https://youtube.com/shorts/zNkqvhegNZs

And again, as the Muscovites say, - "negative" start!... )
I start looking at the ETM diagrams. Up to and including 86, the main relay was activated via the green (!) wire with power from the ignition switch to the main relay contact 86. I have a red wire with constant power there. I remember that I have a later Motronic 1.3 engine wiring, with a 3-row DME connector. I take an ETM from 89 - there the main relay is activated via the brown wire with "mass" from the DME to the main relay contact 85! And I have a GREEN (!!) wire there! According to ETM, the green wire is the power supply from the ignition switch. I'm a little confused.... how can a relay work from two "pluses"? I looked through ETM again over the years, and only in the diagrams for 87 did I find this GREEN wire! Oddly enough, it turned out that this is the "ground" wire from DME! Apparently, German engineers, after replacing the power supply diagram and activating the main relay, forgot to change the color of this wire! And then, realizing their mistake, from 88 they changed the color of this GREEN "ground" wire (!!) to the traditional brown! Although, in my opinion, it would be more correct to replace it with brown with a colored stripe - this is not a permanent "ground", but an activating one.
So, if someone has an 87 engine wiring, then keep this in mind!
While I was dealing with this "quest" with wires, I noticed that the main relay has two contacts 87. Separate power supply for the pump and injectors, and separate power supply for the DME. I put a jumper 30-87-87. it works!
https://youtube.com/shorts/e-mYG6ItmNI

Finally!! It works! I was happy like a child with a new toy! )))
But something needs to be done with that relay. I checked it - on the table from the power supply it works normally. That is, the problem is not in the relay. And then I remember that once upon a time, right after buying the car, I had the same problem. Then the main relay did not work due to a rotten wire. I unwrap the end of the harness, and I see that old twist - on the same GREEN wire! But it's intact. And the wire still doesn't "ring". That is, it has rotted somewhere else again, and the relay does not activate... I don't understand why, maybe some defective wire...


I didn't want to pull out and cut all the plastic corrugations on the engine wiring, so I just added another parallel duplicate GREEN (!) wire in the corrugation, from pin 36 of the DME to pin 85 of the main relay. I installed the white main relay, and I'm trying to start the engine again.


done!
https://youtube.com/shorts/MdusdwjYgfs

Finally, now everything works fine!
By By the way, I noticed that the scheme of operation of the white relay is similar to the scheme of operation of the black relay, which is installed on the dipped beam and fog lights. But according to ETK, they are different for some reason. Out of curiosity, I installed a black relay instead of a white one - everything works.


That is, if absolutely necessary, you can remove the relay from the headlights and install it instead of the main relay.
We close the relay with a plastic cover - everything is ready!


The engine starts, runs fine. But for the car to be able to drive on its own, I still need to buy and install a new power steering pump, and restore and install the brake calipers.

P.S.
By the way, about the relay - if anyone noticed - an additional yellow relay on the fuse box. Maybe next time I'll write about it! ;)

[twenty]

Gorgeous! The finished item looks so, so good.

[The_Glory]

Gorgeous! The finished item looks so, so good.

Thanks! I totally agree, it looks pretty good! )
But as old Ford said, "80% of the beauty of a car is in its wheels!" ) I still need to get the Borbet A. and two more sets of wheels in good condition. And then maybe buy some nice BBS to match the body kit. ;)

[The_Glory]

Assembly_184_Additional BSC options - OVERHEAT

I have long written about the fact that I installed a top-of-the-line on-board control system unit for the Japanese market, with four additional options, and added wires for them to the interior wiring harness. I will not repeat myself about this.


Now it is time to fully complete their functionality.
Now we will talk about an additional option that was available only for the Japanese market - OVERHEAT. This lamp signals overheating of the catalyst. For this, it has a temperature sensor and a special relay. I have not had the catalyst for a long time, respectively, and there is no point in looking for that sensor and relay.
Therefore, I decided to use this lamp differently - connect it to the temperature sensor, which at a temperature of 99 degrees turns on the air conditioner fan at second speed. That is, the lamp will warn in advance about possible engine overheating. I also wrote earlier that I added an additional button to the fan wiring diagram for manually turning on the second speed. I connected the button to the corresponding contacts in the fuse block. And the wire from the lamp, without thinking at the time, was laid all the way to the sensor on the radiator. Now I realized that it was useless - it would be logical to connect it to the same contacts as the button. But there is a nuance. The relay (K6) of the second fan speed is activated by the "plus" of the power supply, and the additional lamps of the on-board control system are activated by the "ground". So, I had to install an additional relay that converts the "plus" to the "ground". I drew the connection diagram of the button and the relay on the diagram of the ETM electric fan.


Connect pin 86 to the button connector that goes to pin 86 of relay K6. Connect pins 30 and 85 to ground at point G104 behind the left headlight. Connect pin 87 to the OVERHEAT lamp wire.


Install the yellow relay in the standard relay location on the fuse block.


This is a regular relay, the same as all the orange relays in the fuse block. I just had yellow. They are also orange or brown. Yellow is the prettiest!


Now, when you manually turn on the second speed of the air conditioner fan in the cabin, the green button and the OVERHEAT lamp of the on-board control system light up.




If the coolant temperature reaches 99 degrees, the OVERHEAT lamp will turn on the temperature sensor together with the fan. In this case, the button will not light up.
Everything seems to be logical, useful and convenient!
In my opinion, this functionality of this lamp is even more useful than the standard Japanese one! ;)

P.S.
If anyone noticed, there is another additional purple relay installed in the fuse block - K9. I have also already mentioned it in the relevant section about relays, but I will repeat it again. This is a relay that, when the high beam is turned on, automatically turns off the rear fog lights, if they were on. This option was available for the French and Swiss markets. Probably because there is often fog there. On other cars, instead of a relay, there is a metal jumper. I don't understand why this relay was not installed as standard on all cars. After all, it is logical - a normal driver will not turn on the high beam in the fog. And if it turns on, then it is logical that there is no more fog, so the rear fog lights can be automatically turned off (if the driver forgot to do it himself) so as not to blind the bright red light of drivers driving behind. I am even more surprised by the complete absence of rear fog lights for the US market, especially given that there were stricter safety requirements than in Europe. Strange.
So, I consider this a useful option that is very easy to install. Just remove the metal jumper and put a purple 5-pin relay in its place. The same relay is used as the comfort relay for power windows.

Sometime later I will write about another additional lamp of the on-board control system - the driver's seat belt. And so far it is not working for me yet.

[The_Glory]

New Year's gifts

I didn't do anything to the car during the holidays, so I'll write about "gifts" for myself and my "thirty"!

By the way, before the New Year I met such a cool "New Year's" E30 - with a Christmas tree on the roof and garlands! ))


In the evening of December 31, I arrived home, and in front of the gate is a set of wheels with MIM 1900 rims!




I received such an unexpected New Year's gift from a neighbor who was raking through old junk in his garage! Once these wheels were on an Alfa Romeo, regardless of the fact that there is a PCD of 4x98 ) And for the last 15 years they have been lying in the garage. MIM 1900 wheels with parameters specifically for the E30 - 7J15 ET13 PCD 4x100. Although, I don't really need them, because I already have three sets of wheels, but I decided to take them anyway - let them be! Especially since the price was symbolic, really - a gift! ;)


Of course, there are scratches on the rim, but the overall condition of the rims is good. I tried them on - they look good! )


But the 205/55 tires are too wide! )


My OZ rims with similar parameters and 195/60 tires in width are getting better.




So, for the holidays I covered the car with an awning so that it would get less dust.


And off I went to celebrate! )


And after the New Year, two more "gifts" arrived - two boxes for cassettes with vertical boxes.


Surprisingly, both are completely intact and in working order!




I've mentioned them before, and I'll write more about them later.

P.S.
There's also news about the assembly, but there are no major problems with the power steering pump. I'll write about that next time.