E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_146. ETK_13_МКПП

Let's go to the ETK section
MKPP

So, the gearbox worked perfectly fine, so I also don't see the point in completely disassembling it. Just cleaning, washing and replacing the fastening parts.

МКПП




Detail #1 - Reversible 5-step. Gearbox with increased transmission 260/5.15-NW (23 00 1 220 893).

This is what it looked like after a surface wash.


There were no upper fastening bolts at all, the side bolts were simply unscrewed by hand, and there were only two of the four lower ones. "Thank you" for this to the master who made it!..
The numbers on the gearbox correspond to the 325i model and the ETK numbers
Model GETRAG 260


Version 038284NW


I start with cleaning and washing - solvent, cleaner, brushes, and a lot of patience! Especially inside the "bell" - dust and soot from the clutch were washed off very poorly.


It was a little easier from the outside, but it was not easy to clean all the "squares" on the body!


While cleaning and turning over, I noticed that oil was leaking from under this cover.


Just in case, I unscrewed it, cleaned it, and screwed it on the gasket sealant. Under the cover, there are three springs - the upper one is shorter and thicker - it is important not to confuse them.


The result of cleaning inside


But outside


At first I wanted to paint it, but then I changed my mind - and it doesn't look bad that way.


The version number of the manual transmission is indicated between the two upper mounting bolt holes.


Gearbox mounting


I bought a set of original mounting bolts, cleaned and galvanized them.


Part #1 - Torx bolt M12X45 (23 00 1 222 890) - 2 pcs. Upper mounting bolts.
Part #2 - Torx bolt M12X75 (23 00 1 222 893) - 2 pcs. Side mounting bolts.
Part No. 3 - spacer washer 13-140 HV-ZNS (07 11 9 931 699) - 4 pcs. Top and side mounting bolts.
Part #4 - centering sleeve D=14.5MM (11 11 7 524 470) - 2 pcs. I already wrote about them in the section about the engine block - they are already installed.


Part No. 5 - Torx bolt M8X50 (23 00 1 222 887) - 4 pcs. Lower mounting bolts.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 4 pcs. Lower mounting bolts.
Part No. 7 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 913 015) - 1 pc. Fastening of the metal shield.
Part #8 - Torx bolt M10X65 (07 12 9 904 681) - 2 pcs. Fastening the starter - I will write about this later in the appropriate section.
Part No. 9 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 122) - 2 pcs. Fastening the starter - I will write about this later in the appropriate section.
Part No. 10 - nut M10 (07 12 9 904 864) - 2 pcs. Fastening the starter - I will write about this later in the appropriate section.

Now I will have the manual transmission fixed as needed.

Gearbox mounting




Part No. 1 - manual transmission traverse (23 71 1 176 574).
Part No. 2 - manual transmission pillow (23 71 1 175 939) - 2 pcs. I use Febi 07999 pads.

Part No. 3 (No. 6, No. 9) - nut (07 11 9 904 032) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 4 (No. - spacer washer ( 33 31 1 108 205) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 2 pcs.
Part #7 - bolt with a square head M8X18 (23 71 1 130 250) - 2 pcs.

Part #10 - not used.

We install pillows on the traverse.


The traverse is ready for installation.


Getrag 260/5/50 Carter and additional elements


As I already said, the gearbox was not fully disassembled, so I will write only about those parts that were removed or replaced.


Part No. 1 - gearbox housing (23 11 1 222 658).
Part #2 - threaded plug M24X1.5 (23 11 7 527 440) - 1 pc. Oil filler plug.
Part No. 3 - sleeve (23 13 7 545 703) - 1 pc. Metal sleeve.

Part No. 4 - fitting for bleeding (23 13 1 224 084) - 1 pc. Plastic cap.

Part No. 5 - steel breather (23 13 1 204 841) - 1 pc. If I understand correctly, either part #5 or parts #3 and #4 are used. In my case #5 is not used.
Parts No. 6...No. 11 - oil seal and its cover with fasteners, pins and rear cover - were not removed.
Part No. 12 - threaded plug M24X1.5 (23 11 7 546 876) - 1 pc. A plug with a magnet for draining grease.

Part No. 13 - rear oil seal 40X55X8 (23 12 1 205 342) - 1 pc. I am using a 813528600 Victor Reinz oil seal.
Part #14 - not used.
Part No. 15, No. 16 - bolts and washers securing the back cover - were not removed.
Part No. 17 - oil seal 15X21X5 (23 12 1 222 677) - 1 pc. I am using a 812401000 Victor Reinz oil seal.

Part #18 - reverse lamp switch M12X1.5 (23 14 1 354 0710 - 1 pc. It was not removed.

Part #19 - not used.
Part No. 20 - the back cover fastening bolt - was not removed.
Part No. 21 - plug (21 11 1 225 047) - 2 pcs. Plastic caps. The original ones are not worth the price, so I just chose the size.

When replacing the stuffing box, I also installed a new locking washer (23 21 1 490 120), which for some reason I did not have at all. It is shown in the section on the internals of the MKPP, which I will not write about, since the MKPP was not understood.
ETK also has a section on a sports manual transmission, but this is a very rare thing, and it is not easy to find it. If I ever find it and buy it, then I will write! ;)

The manual transmission was very dirty with grease in the rear part, so I decided to replace both rear oil seals. So, we unscrew and remove the shank. I pulled out the small oil seal with the help of a screwdriver screwed into it, and the large one was easily removed with a screwdriver.
We replace both oil seals.


Sanded and painted the shank and nut. The locking washer is new.


We install and screw the shank. The locking washer is put on the nut and fixed with a three-grooved edge on the shank. I will fix it already after installing it on the car and after fully tightening the nut.


We screw the traverse to the manual transmission.

We insert two plastic plugs into the openings of the manual gearbox housing.


These holes are used to install the rev sensor and dead center sensor on early Motronic or Jetronic versions. In my case, there are simply plugs.
Screw in the oil drain plug from below, and the oil fill plug on the right side.
I will pour the oil during installation.
By the way, for the US market, ATF oil was used in such manual transmissions according to ETK. I heard that with it the gears are switched more gently. I also wanted to switch to ATF, but I guess I will leave it as it was - 80W90. I would be grateful for any recommendations or advice on this matter.

So, the gearbox is ready for installation. It remains to install the clutch parts on it.




My assistant controller - the poor thing suffered with this manual transmission!


Then about the clutch.

[The_Glory]

What a fantastic article, thank you for your great work !

I'm glad you found this helpful!

[The_Glory]

Collection_148. ETK_21_Clutch. Clutch

I wrote about the installation of the clutch drive a long time ago, and now it's time to write about the clutch itself.
Let's go to the ETK section
Clutch

Unit
Clutch


All the clutch parts were replaced earlier during the engine overhaul, so they are in excellent condition. So, the work is purely cosmetic - cleaning, washing, painting, galvanizing.



Part No. 1 - pressure disc D=228MM (21 21 1 223 026) - 1 pc. I am using SACHS 3082001454.

Part #2 - driven disk D=228MM (21 21 1 223 097) - 1 pc. I am using SACHS 1861661133.

Part No. 3 - release bearing lever (21 51 1 204 229) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - release bearing (21 51 7 521 471) - 1 pc. I am using SACHS 3151231031.
Part No. 5 - sleeve H=15MM (21 51 1 202 659) - 1 pc. I did not remove it from the manual transmission housing.

Part No. 6 - bracket (21 51 1 204 327) - 1 pc. Lever attachment.

Part No. 7 - bolt (07 11 9 919 939) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8, No. 9 - not used.
Part #10 - set of clutch parts D=228MM (21 21 1 223 102). This is probably the original repair kit.

So the main parts of the SACHS are in excellent condition, so I just cleaned everything. The thickness of the disc is like a new one.


But it is necessary to center it somehow. I do not have the original tool, and it is not advisable to buy it for one-time use. Maybe then I'll make a homemade one. And now I used improvised means - a 12mm drill and a 16mm head;)


The 16mm head fits almost perfectly into the disc hole. By the way, on the disk it is written in German - "gearbox side". In order not to make a mistake, install the disc with the correct side.


A 12 mm drill bit fits perfectly into the hole of the head.


Also, a 12mm drill fits perfectly into the flywheel bearing hole. We insert the drill, put the head on it - and the "special tool" is ready! ;)


We put a disc on it.


And we fasten the pressure disk, tightening the bolts evenly. I used a thread lock for the bolts.


The clutch is installed.
Now we install the clutch parts in the manual transmission housing.
We fasten the new clutch cylinder with two M8 nuts.




We install the lever and the release bearing. We slightly lubricate the places of their contact.


We fix the lever with a clamp in the holes of the manual transmission housing.


Now the gearbox and clutch are completely ready for installation on the car.


The car is also ready! Finally, I wheeled her to the floor!


Everything is ready....almost....waiting for small details...

[martauto]

Wow,
How on earth you have done this is beyond my thinking!!
The standards you have kept to is 100%.
We really need to see soooooooooooooo much more of this car and you my friend !!!!
Thank you so much for what you have done and documenting it on the Zone too, and we all WILL see the day that you can drive her "Freely" in your own country !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks mate
Mart.

One big one in that Bastards eye yet again
May him drop dead !

[Jam911]

Excellent wrok. Well done

[The_Glory]

Wow,
How on earth you have done this is beyond my thinking!!
The standards you have kept to is 100%.
We really need to see soooooooooooooo much more of this car and you my friend !!!!
Thank you so much for what you have done and documenting it on the Zone too, and we all WILL see the day that you can drive her "Freely" in your own country !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks mate
Mart.

One big one in that Bastards eye yet again
May him drop dead !

Thank you, I hope it will be so!

[The_Glory]

Excellent wrok. Well done

Thanks

[The_Glory]

Collection_149. ETK_11_Engine. Cooling system water hose

For 1985 it should look like this:
Cooling system water hose


But on my car, the entire cooling system was installed with an E34 M20B25. Including a radiator with a built-in expansion tank. Its lower fastening was self-made. Now I have the stock restyling mount installed, and accordingly, the radiator will be fixed with the stock mount. The radiator will be larger, for the air conditioner. So I see no point in going back to the 1985 cooling system. Moreover, even visually, that expansion tank looks too archaic for me. And I can't install the restyling expansion tank, because another interesting tank already stands in that place, but more on that later.
Finally, all the little things have arrived, and you can continue assembling the engine.


So, the M20B25 E30 cooling system is similar to the M20B25 E34. Maybe someone will say that this is a "kolkhoz", but I will say that this is an "upgrade"!
Cooling system water hose




Part No. 1 - water hose (11 53 1 287 651) - 1 pc.
Part No. 2 (No. 5) - clamp L42-48 (07 12 9 952 119) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - hose holder (11 53 1 714 433) - 1 pc.

Part No. 4 - water hose (11 53 1 722 214) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 (No. 2) - clamp L42-48 (07 12 9 952 119) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 6 - clamp L37-43 (07 12 9 952 117) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 7 - water hose (11 53 1 722 486) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - tube (11 53 1 719 788) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - bolt with washer M6X16 (07 11 9 915 123) - 1 pc.

Part No. 11 - water hose D=45MM (11 53 1 718 982) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - supply hose (64 24 1 374 911) - 1 pc. Supply to the interior heater. This hose is from E30.
Part No. 13 - return hose (11 53 1 720 524) - 1 pc. Return from the interior heater. This hose is from the E34.
Part No. 14 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 15 - clamp L16-30 (64 21 8 367 179) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 16 - clamp D=24.5MM (61 13 1 379 580) - 2 pcs. Plastic clamp for interior heater hoses.
Part No. 17 - bandage 120MM (61 13 1 379 580) - 2 pcs. Plastic strap for the hose (#13) of the interior heater. It is inserted into the holes on the left spar of the restyling body. My body does not have these holes, so this part is not used in my case. Instead of them, I will use a metal bracket for the restyled body.
Detail No. 5 on the first diagram for 1985 - bracket (11 53 1 279 946) - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - water hose (13 54 1 705 568) - 1 pc. Supply for heating the throttle. This hose is from E30.
Part No. 19 - water hose (13 54 1 289 976) - 1 pc. Throttle heating return. This hose is from E30.
Part No. 20 - clamp L15-18 (11 15 1 727 509) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 21 - wire holder (61 13 1 378 529) - 2 pcs. Plastic clamp for throttle heating hoses.
Part No. 22 - hose holder (12 51 1 309 471) - 1 pc. Plastic clamp for interior heater hoses. For restyling E30.


I installed the metal tube (#8) earlier, along with the water pump pulley.


By the way, it was because of its attachment to the pump that the pump itself had to be changed. Because before the restyling, the pump did not have this attachment.


I start installing the hoses with the interior heater hoses.
By the way, in the ETK section on heating and air conditioning, there is a separate section on these hoses.
Additional water pump / water hose




Part No. 1 - return hose (11 53 1 720 524) - 1 pc. Return from the interior heater. This hose is from the E34.
Part No. 2 - supply hose (64 21 1 380 527) - 1 pc. Supply to the interior heater. This hose is from E30.
Part #3 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 3 - clamp L16-30 (64 21 8 367 179) - 2 pcs.
All other parts for M20B25 are not used.

All hoses are original and in good condition, so I don't see the point in changing them to new Chinese ones that crack after a year... All clamps are also original, some are old, some are new.
So, I start with the interior heater hoses. On the flange of the cylinder head, we install the supply hose to the interior heater radiator.


We lay the T-shaped return hose from the interior heater radiator to the main radiator and thermostat.


We install two plastic clamps (#16) on the metal bracket and fix the hose in them.




The hose will go to the radiator along the left spar.


There it will be fixed with a metal bracket to the spar.




Next, we lay the throttle heating hoses.


We screw them to the throttle flanges.


On the flange of the cylinder block, we install the supply hose for heating the throttle.




We install two plastic clamps (#21) on the metal bracket and fix the hoses in them.


We screw the return hose from the throttle heating to the lower flange of the thermostat.


We fix the hose in a plastic clamp (#21).


So far, I have installed the plastic hose holder (#22) like this - on the oil dipstick tube.


I'm not sure how it should be, but I have no other ideas Maybe after installing the engine, that holder can be used to fix the fuel hose... I don't know. I'll see you later.

Let's move on to the main hoses of the cooling system.
Install the hose holder (#3). It is inserted into the hole on the bracket and fixed with a pin.


I already wrote that I laid the wire from the impulse sensor of cylinder 6 together with the wire of the crankshaft position sensor. Well, that's not right! There is a special eyelet for this wire on the slag holder. I had to extract it, then translate it correctly.


Next, we fix it in a rubber shield


And we take it to the bracket.


We install the hose and fix it in the holder.


We screw the hoses to the water pump and tube.


But to the thermostat.


All hoses of the cooling system are installed.


Next, about the engine suspension.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_150. ETK_11_Engine. Engine suspension / damper


Engine suspension / damper



Part No. 1 - left support bracket (11 81 1 176 565) - 1 pc.
Part No. 2 (No. 5) - bolt M8X25 (07 11 9 913 653) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 8 pcs.
Part No. 4 - right support bracket (11 81 1 176 564) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 (No. 2) - bolt M8X25 (07 11 9 913 653) - 4 pcs.
Item No. 6 is not used.
Part No. 7 - rubber-metal hinge (11 81 1 132 321) - 2 pcs.
Part #8 - nut M10 (07 11 9 915 558) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 9 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 122) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - spacer washer A10.5 (07119904198) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - thermal insulation screen (11 81 1 127 4930 - 1 pc.

Part No. 12 - stop (11 81 1 133 377) - 2 pcs. 1 pc is specified in ETK. But there, in the notes to detail No. 7, 2 pcs. I ordered two.
I waited almost a month for these stands under the engine pillows! Finally, they have arrived, and it is possible to complete the assembly of the motor before installing it in the car.




We screw the support brackets to the engine block.
Left


rights


Now, finally, the engine is completely ready for installation in the car! I will install it in this form.










I like it - beautiful! ;)

However, it is necessary to install supports.
I don't really understand the function of these parts (#12), but they are called "stops". What and how they support, I do not understand - the pillow becomes free in them, and they do not support it in any way.


Maybe it's heat protection and only one is installed on the right side...? It's not clear... that's probably why almost no one has them... some kind of "extra" detail, and it's not cheap either But it's not for nothing that I've been waiting for them for almost a month, so I'll put them on both sides!


Left


rights


A thermal shield (No. 11) is also installed on the right side from above. I didn't have it before either.


The entire set of regular thermal protection.


I disassembled the front part again Thoroughly washed the entire engine compartment from dust and prepared everything for engine installation.






I will install it soon.

[The_Glory]

Collection_151. ETK_25_Gearshift mechanism

The gearbox is ready for installation, but you still need to install the gear shifting mechanism on it.
Gear shift mechanism

Manual Gear Shift Mechanism




Part No. 1 (No. 2...No. 12) - gear shift lever (25 11 1 220 326) - 1 pc. The lever is assembled, and of course I did not disassemble it completely. Second lever (25 11 7 527 254) for Z3 M3.2. This is a more "sporty" short-stroke lever. But running ahead, I will say that it was not possible to install it - it rested on the gimbal. I don't know why, but somehow they put it on the E30... Maybe for this you need a cardan with a smaller diameter from the younger models. Therefore, it was necessary to replace it with a standard lever.

Part No. 13 - gear shift lever cover (25 11 1 220 204) - 1 pc. It comes complete with a plastic frame for its fastening. I have it sewn from a leather substitute. Maybe later I will order from genuine leather.


The design of the shift mechanism is significantly different before September 1985 and after September 1985. At the same time, on early versions of the manual transmission, there is no attachment for a later mechanism, and on late manual transmissions, both types of gear shifting mechanisms can be installed. In September 1989, minor changes were made to the design and mounting of the shifter linkage. In my case, this is the latest option, after 1989 - but I realized this only when I encountered some difficulties during installation.
Manual Gear Shift Mechanism




Part No. 1 - gearshift lever support frame (25 11 1 221 201) - 1 pc. It can be of different lengths for different motors and manual transmissions.
Part #2 - sleeve L=26MM (25 11 7 519 669) - 1 pc. Rubber sleeve.
Part No. 3 - support frame mounting axis D=10MMX40MM (25 11 1 221 849) - 1 pc.
Item No. 4 is not used.
Part No. 5 - terminal (25 11 1 220 837) - 1 pc. Plastic clip for fixing the wiring on the frame.
Part No. 6 - gear shift lever support (25 11 1 220 600) - 1 pc. Plastic sleeve.

Part No. 7 - casing (25 11 1 220 912) - 1 pc. Rubber lever cover.
Part No. 8 - hinged bracket for fastening the gear shift lever support frame (25 11 1 220 707) - 1 pc. A metal bracket with a rubber sleeve for rear frame mounting.
Part No. 9 - M8 nut (07 12 9 906 196) - 1 pc.

Part No. 10 - straight gear shift drive rod (25 11 1 221 657) - 1 pc. After 1989. For some reason, I have it boiled in the middle, it must have been shortened. They are of several types and of different lengths. It has some nuances, but I will write about them in the section on the cardan.
Part No. 11 - plastic washer 10X16X0.9 (25 11 1 220 439) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - locking clip (25 11 7 571 899) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - gear selection rod clip (25 11 7 503 525) - 1 pc. After 1989.
Part No. 14 - ring of round cross-section 10X2.2 (25 11 1 221 243) - 2 pcs. Only until 1989. For the version after 1989, they are not used and do not physically fit on the axle. But I didn't know about it and I still put one ring in there! The second one didn't fit

Part No. 15 - spacer washer 16X10.2X0.65 (25 11 1 220 199) - 1 pc. For the version after 1989, washer #11 is used.
Part No. 16 - locking washer 8.0 (07 11 9 932 863) - 1 pc.

Part No. 17 - cylindrical pin (23 41 1 466 134) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - elastic sleeve (25 11 1 203 682) - 1 pc.
Part No. 19 - plastic washer (25 11 1 434 194) - 1 pc. Soft plastic insert.
Part No. 20 - reverse lamp switch wiring (23 14 1 220 263) - 1 pc.
Part No. 21 - terminal (61 13 8 364 037) - 1 pc. Metal clip for fixing the wiring on the manual transmission.

The rubber sleeve is pressed into the frame using a regular bolt with a nut.


We insert the lever into the pivot support No. 6. We click the support in frame No. 1, turning it clockwise. Lubricate the hinge. We put rubber cover No. 7 on the lever and pass wiring No. 20 through it. We fix the wiring on the frame with plastic clip No. 5. We install bracket No. 8 on the frame. The upper part of the mechanism is assembled.


In clip #13, there was a large artifact in the plastic sleeve. I ordered a new bushing from the turner and pressed it into the clamp.


We insert the soft insert No. 19 into the clip. The clip is fixed on the gear selection rod with a cylindrical pin #17. The pin is fixed with an elastic sleeve No. 18.


We install the clip on the No. 10 pull. We install the thrust on the lever.
Gear shift mechanism is fully assembled.




We install the clip on the gear selector rod and fix it with a pin.


We fix the pin with an elastic sleeve.


We insert the axle of the frame #3 into the body of the manual transmission and snap it into place. We put the metal clip No. 21 on the body of the manual transmission and fix the wiring in it. We connect the wiring to the reverse lamp switch.


The gear shifting mechanism is installed on the manual transmission.


Now the gearbox is completely ready for installation on the car.


It remains only to install the handle on the lever.
Before restyling, "round" handles were available in various versions.
Gear Knob / Covers / Emblems


Maybe one day I will buy such a handle for the collection, but for now I will have the handle installed after the restyling.
Gear Knob / Covers / Emblems




After the restyling, the handles were also available in many variants. In my case, it is a wooden handle - I already wrote about it in the section on decoration from valuable wood species.
Part No. 11 - wooden lever handle (25 11 1 221 674) - 1 pc.
Item No. 3 - 5-GANG/SCHWARZ sticker (25111221611) - 1 pc.


I also already wrote about the condition of the pen - it will be restored. The emblem will also be replaced by #8 (25 11 1 221 612) M-TECHNIK.
In addition, I want to make this pen with a light. In the original for the E30, such handles were only covered with leather. But I want to keep the wooden handle. That will be later.
Retrofit kit for manual transmission leather handle with illumination




Part No. 1, No. 3 - a complete set of retrofitting, no longer available for ordering.
Part No. 2 - leather manual transmission handle with M-TECHNIK illumination (25 11 2 231 551).
Part No. 4 - leather manual transmission handle with M-SPORT/5-GANG illumination (25 11 2 231 550).
Part No. 5 - wiring of the handle with illumination (61 10 2 230 890). I don't see the point of buying it, it's easier and cheaper to make it yourself. I have already installed it, and I wrote about it in the section on wiring the interior heater. It is connected there, parallel to the ashtray backlight lamp.


The connector is original.


So, the entire gearshift mechanism is ready for installation.

Then about the gimbal.

[The_Glory]

Collection_152. ETK_26_Cardan shaft

It remains to prepare the cardan shaft.
Cardan shaft

Elastic coupling / intermediate support of the cardan shaft




Part #1 - centering sleeve (26 11 7 526 611) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - elastic coupling LK=78MM/D=110MM (26 11 1 225 624) - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - damper of torsional vibrations (26 11 1 434 254) - 1 pc. After 1988. I will write a little more about him below.

Part #4 - bolt M10X50/10.9 (26 11 1 209 498) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bolt M10X50/10.9 (26 11 1 225 744) - 3 pcs. Or bolt #4. I had all the bolts the same.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer A10 (26 11 1 225 821) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 122) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 7 - M10 nut (07 12 9 964 672) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8 - file (26 11 1 225 089) - 1 pc. I did not remove it from the cardan shaft.

Part #9 - radial bearing D=55/D=30 (26 12 1 225 071) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - intermediate support 55X13X30 (26 12 1 225 152) - 1 pc. Assembled with bearing No. 9. Analogue of SWAG 20870005.

Part No. 11 - file D=30X58X5.5-CRH (26 11 1 225 088) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - retaining ring (26 12 3 648 156) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 (No. 15) - threaded ring with clamping ring (26117514037) - 1 pc. Collected from No. 15.
Part No. 14 - gear washer (26 11 1 209 285) - 1 pc.

Part No. 15 (No. 13) - threaded ring with clamping ring (26117514037) - 1 pc. Collected from No. 13. Analogue of SWAG 20926858.

Part No. 16 - screw M10X25 (26 11 1 206 718) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 17 - nut M10 (07 12 9 964 672) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 18 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 915 160) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 19 - a repair kit for cardan crosspieces with hinges.

There is no photo of the cardan shaft assembly. They collected it in a friend's garage - there was no time to take pictures. But it looks somewhere the same ;)
Cardan shaft / universal joint


Part No. 1 - cardan shaft of a 5-speed manual transmission (26 11 1 225 635).

The crosses are in good shape so I left them as they were.

Briefly on the assembly of the cardan shaft.
First, we change the centering sleeve No. 1. Although it was possible to leave the old one, but I decided to replace it. It turned out not to be so simple. It was possible to pull out the old sleeve only by hollowing out its rubber part and cutting a thread on it. We press a new one.
Then we press the bearing of the intermediate support No. 10 with the shoulder close to the file No. 8. We install file no. 11, fix it with locking ring no. 12. We put the ring No. 13 (No. 15) and toothed washer No. 14 on the shaft.
We connect both parts of the cardan shaft along the slots. When I took it apart, I marked the relative position of both parts. They collected it according to these marks. Otherwise, you will have to rebalance the gimbal. We tighten the threaded ring No. 13.
We insert the elastic coupling #2 into the damper #3 and fasten it to the cardan shaft with three bolts #4.
The cardan shaft is ready for installation.

But, in fact, it was not so simple!
As I wrote in the previous post, the gimbal rested on the short-stroke Z3M link, so I had to replace it with a standard one. And these are not all problems.
I didn't have damper #3 before. Since, according to ETK, it should be on the 325i model, I decided to install it. But with the Z3M backstage, of course, it was completely out of place. After replacing the scenes with a standard one, I had to get up. But again, no! He resisted the pull. Since the work was being done at my friend's garage, which had to be vacated quickly, there was no time to deal with it and look for other details. Therefore, they removed that damper and installed the cardan shaft without it, as it was before.
But I was wondering what the problem was, so now, I figured it out at least a little... at least theoretically! ;)

So, as I wrote in a previous post, the pull and clamp are different before '89 and after '89. Photo from the Internet.
An early clip shifts the traction to the side, thereby moving it away from the damper.


In addition, the early thrust (25 11 1 220 838) in the area of ​​the damper has a special stamping, and axles of different lengths.


Perhaps this is exactly what allows you to install a damper.

The late drive (25 11 1 221 657) is straight, with axles of the same length as mine.


There is also a curved thrust (25 11 1 221 250), which according to ETK is applied to engines M40, M42 in E30, and to M50, M20 in E34.


There are also two types of dampers for the E30.
Until 1988 (23 13 1 222 514).


And after 1988 (26 11 1 434 254).


So, I have a post-89 bracket, a post-89 tie rod, a post-88 damper - everything fits... Why doesn't it fit??
How to make this "puzzle"? If anyone knows, I would be grateful for tips. Later, when it may become completely boring, I will still try to install it... ;)

Next time, finally, I will write about the installation of the engine, gearbox with clutch, and cardan shaft.

[The_Glory]

Collection_153. Engine installation

So, finally everything is completely ready and this day has come!
Since my garage is not very suitable for installing the engine due to the lack of a normal floor and a lifting winch, I had to do it in my friend's garage. The same place where it was removed from the car earlier. But, for this, first you need to somehow get that engine out of the basement... It has quite a lot of weight, so they pulled it out in a simple and ingenious way!


I drew my "x" on a sheet of metal along with a wooden pallet. It turned out quite quickly and easily!


But it was more difficult to load it into the car! But the four of us did it.


Now it was necessary to get the car out. It seemed that it was even easier, but it didn't work the first time. This is all because of the "reliable" Chinese towing cables that broke three times! It was not without "victims"... my "x" suffered a little - a metal hook flew right into the bumper grill... But it's good that it didn't hit the headlight, or the glass, or the radiator... And it's even better that not in the "thirties"!


After all, the E30 rolled out onto the street for the first time in several years!






Of the brakes, only the handbrake works, because the calipers have not yet been installed. Therefore, we slowly and very carefully drove to our friend's garage. It's good that it's nearby, we got there without any problems.


During the work, there was no time for a photo, so the result is already ready - everything is installed from below, except for the exhaust system.


The photo on the way home was a bit unsuccessful


The descent into the garage was also successful.
So, the engine, gearbox with clutch and cardan shaft are installed. It remains to connect the wiring and hoses.
But even so it looks good - I like it! ;)












This is some progress!
Now I'm installing all the parts under the hood - next time I'll write about it.

[martauto]

That`s so cool mate, I am looking forward so much to the rest of this !!!!

Mart.

[The_Glory]

That`s so cool mate, I am looking forward so much to the rest of this !!!!

Mart.

The plastic shields for the A/C radiator will arrive tomorrow and then I can completely finish assembling the front of the car. At least on the outside.

[The_Glory]

Collection_154. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Engine wiring harness

So, the motor is installed, I also installed the wiring harness earlier - you just need to connect everything.

Engine wiring harness




Part #1 - engine wiring harness (12 51 1 711 212).




1 - Motronic ECU connector
2 - connector for connecting the tachometer and the economizer (before restyling)
3 - connector for automatic transmission, selector position (I'm not sure exactly)
4 - connector for automatic transmission (I'm not sure)
5 - connector for connecting the air conditioner (signal of increased idle speed when the air conditioner is turned on)
6 - connector for lambda probe
7.1, 7.2 - ignition coil terminals "+" and "-"
8 - "mass" terminals

9 - connector C101 for connection to the main wiring
10 - fuel injector connectors (6 pcs.)
11 - temperature sensor connector for the Motronic ECU (blue on 2 pins)
12 - temperature sensor connector for the instrument panel (brown on 1 pin)

13.1, 13.2 - starter terminals "+" and "-"
14 - throttle position sensor connector
15 - tank ventilation valve connector
16 - valve connector of the idle speed regulator
17 - air flow meter connector
18 - lambda-probe heating relay connector
19 - fuel pump relay connector
20 - main relay connector
21 - crankshaft position sensor connector
22 - camshaft position sensor connector
23.1, 23.2 - generator terminals
24 - oil level sensor connector
25 - diagnostic connector
26 - connector for connecting the air conditioner
27 - oil pressure sensor connector
28* - oil level sensor connector for OIL Level Matic (aftermarket, I added it myself)


So, the wiring goes through the motor shield on the right, into the cabin, to the Motronic ECU. There, connectors 1, 2, 5 (and 3 and 4 if there is an automatic transmission) are connected to it. I will write about this later, but now we will talk about its underhood part.
We screw the "mass" terminals to the right body strut, screw the terminals to the ignition coil, fix the wiring with clips. The lambda probe connector will be connected after the exhaust system is installed.


We put the harness in a special holder on the shield and fix it with ties and one clamp. We install the C101 connector in a special holder and connect it to the main wiring.


You need three such clamps in total. Two more on the intake manifold.


The first collar on the collector


I also placed the air conditioner connector here. By default, it should be somewhere near the compressor, but since I connected the restyling wiring of the air conditioner through adapters, I will have it here. There is no point in dragging it through the entire engine compartment.
The second collar on the collector.


We fix the wiring with clips to the oil dipstick brackets.


We connect the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors, install the diagnostic connector.




We fasten the terminals of the generator and its "mass" wire.


We connect the oil level sensor and screw the cable of the main "mass" of the engine to the pallet.




The air flow meter connector will be connected after it is installed. We install the relay holder, fix them there and cover with a plastic cover.


We fasten the additional "ground" wire of the valve cover (65 31 1 286 069). I made it myself - almost no different from the original ;)


Fuel injector connectors will be connected after they are installed.


We connect temperature sensors for the instrument panel (1 pin) and for the Motronic ECU (2 pins).


Next will be about connecting other electrical equipment of the engine, and connecting all hoses.

[HartgeH27]

Interesing and very useful read, look forward to your next post.

[The_Glory]

Interesing and very useful read, look forward to your next post.

Thanks!
The work is progressing a little, but sometimes there is no time to write, then there is no electricity because of the damned raschits...

[The_Glory]

Collection_155. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment.

I will briefly write about all the details of the engine's electrical equipment.
Earlier, I already wrote about the elements of fastening the wiring harness on the engine. Now about fasteners under the hood.

Fixing elements of the wiring harness (part 2 )




Part #1 - protective cap (12 52 1 279 703). Perhaps this is a mistake. I have never come across this detail on an E30 (photo from the Internet).

Judging by the photo from the Internet, it was used on earlier models with Jetronic.

Therefore, the part is not used.
Part #2 - protective cap (12 52 1 284 465) - 1 pc. This part is only used on early E30 models up to 1985, with the rectangular C101 connector which is fixed to the fuse box housing. This cover covers the connector C101. Photo from the Internet.


Since my wiring is later, the part is not used.
Part No. 3 - cover (12 52 1 286 052) - 1 pc. This is a red cover for the diagnostic connector on cars before 1985. Similarly with detail #2, not used.
Part No. 4 - protective cap (12 52 1 279 603) - 1 pc. Motor wiring relay cover.
Part No. 5 - bracket ( 12 52 1 279 602) - 1 pc. Bracket for mounting the motor wiring relay.
Part No. 6 - rubber sleeve (61 31 1 369 343) - 1 pc. This is a rubber sleeve in the washer fluid tank, into which the fluid level sensor is inserted. Why it is in this section, I do not understand.

Part #7 - connector holder C101 (12 52 1 710 729) - 1 pc. In ETK, for some reason, it is written that this is a diagnostic connector holder - this is a mistake.
It is screwed to the shield.

Fixes connector C101.


Wiring Plug Connection


I already wrote about these connectors in the section on motor wiring.

Part #1...5 - connector C101 assembly. I connect the motor wiring with the main wiring. Fixed in a special bracket on the left of the motor shield.

Part No. 6...9 - diagnostic connector assembly. Fixed in a special bracket on the intake manifold.



Another ETK section on motor wiring connectors.
Wiring plug connection


I already wrote about these connectors in the section on motor wiring. I have them all in good condition, so I did not disassemble them, and I did not replace anything in them. That is why there is nothing to write about.

ETK section on wiring fastening.
Wiring holder


There are a lot of different clips and clamps, and I can't imagine where they can all be used at the same time. Therefore, I also do not see the point of writing about it in detail here. I have already written about these details in the sections on different wiring harnesses. In the motor wiring, I used only a few of them - #1, 2, 3, 13, 14, 15, 17, 20, 22, 24, 25, 27.

Engine relay




There are also a lot of relays, but in fact only two types of relays are used in motor wiring.
Part No. 1 (No. 2) - relay (61 31 1 373 588) - 2 pcs. Fuel pump relay and lambda probe heating relay. It's the same 4-pin relay as the relay in the fuse box. Mostly orange. It can be yellow, brown, or blue. I wrote about it in the section on the fuse block.
Part No. 10 - relay (61 36 1 729 004) - 1 pc. Main relay. Specific 5-pin relay. White color.

All other relays are not used in my case.

Another ETK section on the fuel pump relay.
Fuel pump relay


Again some inaccuracy of ETK. For my motor wiring, the fuel pump relay is in the previous section. And all these relays are probably for earlier Jetronic models.
So, in my case, these relays are not used.

The relays are fixed on a plastic bracket that snaps onto the body bracket.




1 - lambda probe heating relay.
2 - fuel pump relay.
3 - the main relay.

Relays are closed with a plastic cover




So, that's it for the details of the engine's electrical equipment.

Now I will write about connecting the hoses to the engine. I already wrote about them in the relevant sections, so here we simply screw them to the installed engine.

Right engine cushion with heat shield. We screw the tubes of the oil cooler to the flanges of the oil filter adapter. Of course with new rubber rings.


Left engine cushion. Before installing the engine, I bolted the power steering hoses to the steering rack. I will write about them separately.


We fasten the interior heater hoses - the lower one for supply, the upper one for return.


I will write about fuel hoses later.


Next, about the starter and the ignition coil.

[HartgeH27]

Another very useful post,

[The_Glory]

Collection_156. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Ignition coil. Starter.

Ignition coil




Part No. 1 - ignition coil (12 13 1 286 087) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - clamp (12 13 1 286 080) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - M6 nut (23 11 2 322 368) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 931 044) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M5 nut (07 11 9 922 038) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - spacer washer 5.3 (07 11 9 936 439) - 1 pc.
Part #7 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 1 pc.

We screw the coil with a clamp to the pin on the body. We screw the terminals of the motor wiring to its contacts. We close the contacts with a rubber cover.


The ignition coil is installed and connected.

Only the starter motor remained under the hood of the engine's electrical equipment.
Starter




Part 1 - starter 1.1KW (12 41 1 361 874) - 1 pc.

My starter had already been completely rebuilt before so I just cleaned and painted it.
Type N 0 001 108 018








Therefore, I do not consider the sections on its details.
Starter parts


Starter details


But I will say that, as it turned out, there are two types of starters. About this in the next section.

Starter mounting elements




Part #1 - bolt M10X75 (11 11 1 735 525) - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - elastic washer B10 (07 11 9 932 1220 - 4 pcs.
Part #3 - M10 nut (07 12 9 900 8120 - 2 pcs.

Item No. 4...8 are not used.

Part No. 9 - cover of traction relay (61 13 1 361 340) - 1 pc. Rubber sheet.
Part No. 10 - bandage L=292MM/B=4.8MM (61 13 1 377 134) - 2 pcs. Plastic screeds.


Never seen this original rubber cover on cars, but it is a very simple and effective protection against water for the starter terminals. The pad is put on the wire of the terminal, and fixed with two clamps. Everything ingenious is simple! (with)




We get such a "visor" over the terminals.


I tried it on the engine - a roof for the starter!




And now about details #4...8. Another inaccuracy in ETK. Bracket No. 6 is not used, and its fasteners No. 4, 5, 7, 8 are used - not logically. My motor just had a #7 bolt with a #8 washer. I got curious and found bracket #6 in ETK - 12 41 1 266 711. It is for M20 motors. So I decided to install it too just in case. I barely found it, cleaned it, galvanized it. I started to install, and here is the fiasco! It does not fit the size of the pins.


In addition, it does not fit the length of the starter!


There is no point in leaving it like that - it is not very convenient to screw the terminals there anyway.


Therefore, I removed it, and left the bolt with the washer as it was - as a plug.


And the whole point is that there are two types of starters for the M20.
"Reducer" - like mine.
And "without gearbox", - earlier.
So, this bracket is only suitable for a "gearless" starter. Now I know it!

The starter was installed after the engine was installed - it is not very convenient to do it, but it was installed. We connect the cable from the battery and the terminals of the motor wiring. The terminals are of different diameters, so it is impossible to mix them up.


Terminals under the roof. ;)


By the way, you can make the visor yourself - I removed the dimensions from the original one, if anyone needs it.


That's it for the electrical equipment of the engine under the hood - only its interior part remains. More on that later.

[HartgeH27]

Great write up !!!

[The_Glory]

Great write up !!!

Thanks, I'm glad you found it interesting or useful.

[martauto]

Great write up !!!

X 100 mate !!!!!!!!

If anyone has started to open this guy`s post about this and find it takes a while to download then PLEASE stay with it as it is compelling to read.
I DARE you to read it from the start !!!!!
Have you a spare day or so ?? lol.

Mart

[The_Glory]

Great write up !!!

X 100 mate !!!!!!!!

If anyone has started to open this guy`s post about this and find it takes a while to download then PLEASE stay with it as it is compelling to read.
I DARE you to read it from the start !!!!!
Have you a spare day or so ?? lol.

Mart

And I immediately warned that I will write in as much detail as possible, in accordance with ETK, and there will be a lot of photos! )))

[The_Glory]

Collection_157. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. DME pulse sensor

So, the latest ETK subdivisions on engine electrical equipment.

DME pulse sensor




Item No. 1...No. 3 are not used. Instead of them, the torpedo mounting brackets shown in the photo are used to mount the ECU.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST6.3X19 (07 11 9 916 970) - 4 pcs. For mounting the ECU.
Part No. 5 - sheet nut ST6,3-1 (07 12 9 925 742) - 4 pcs. For mounting the ECU.
Part No. 6 - ECU connector housing 35 pins (12 52 1 270 971) - 1 pc. I have already written about all motor wiring connectors in the corresponding section.

Part No. 7 - pulse sensor (12 14 1 710 668) - 1 pc. Crankshaft position sensor. I also wrote about him before.
Part No. 8 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 1 pc. For mounting the sensor.
Part #9 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 0990 - 1 pc. For attaching the sensor.
Part No. 10 - bracket (12 14 1 710 747) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - wire holder D=12.8MM (61 13 1 267 476) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - bracket (12 52 1 711 227) - 1 pc. A bracket for fixing the diagnostic connector and the connectors of the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. I have already written about him before.
Part No. 13 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 905 524) - 1 pc. Apparently this bolt is used for earlier brackets. In my case, it is not used, since the bracket is screwed with an M8 nut to the stud of the intake manifold.
Part No. 14 - spiral hose (61 13 1 363 375) - 1 pc. Plastic protective tube for the sensor wire.

So, I installed the pulse sensor at the engine assembly stage, so I simply repeat the photo of its installation on the engine.
Screw the sensor to a special bracket. We put a protective spiral tube on its wire. It protects against contact with the pulley.


We lay the wire above the water pump, through a protective plastic case.


We fix the connector in the bracket that is screwed to the intake manifold.


We connect to the motor wiring.


I installed parts #10 and #11 on the manifold stud along with the wiring and oil dipstick brackets.. Not sure if it's supposed to be that way but I couldn't find another place for them.


We fix the wiring in them.


Now, finally, about the interior part - installation and connection of the ECU.

DME

Part No. 1 - ECU DME (12 14 1 710 537) - 1 pc.
Several ECU options were available for the M20B25 engine. Most often it is Motronic 1.1 or Motronic 1.3.
Table from the Internet:

12
325e/es
E30
M20/B27 (122hp)
9/84-12/86
0 261 200 027
Bosch Motronic Basic M1.0

13
325e/es
E30
M20/B27 (127hp)
1/87-9/87
0 261 200 154
Bosch Motronic M1.1

14
325i/ECE
E30
M20/B25 (171hp)
85-87
0 261 200 081
Bosch Motronic M1.0

15
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 153
Bosch Motronic M1.1

16
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 173
Bosch Motronic M1.3

17
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 351
Bosch Motronic M1.3

18
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 380
Bosch Motronic M1.3

19
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 382
Bosch Motronic M1.3

20
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 524
Bosch Motronic M1.3

21
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 525
Bosch Motronic M1.3

22
325i/is/iX
E30
M20/B25 (170hp)
87-91
0 261 200 526
Bosch Motronic M1.3

I had two ECUs Motronic 1.1 (0 261 200 153) and Motronic 1.3 (0 261 200 173). Self-diagnosis function is available in Motronic 1.3 - I already wrote about it earlier. But for now I installed Motronic 1.1, because Motronic 1.3 was not working. I will replace it later.
I installed the ECU when I was installing the torpedo, so I'm also just repeating the installation photo.
The ECU is screwed to the torpedo brackets and connected to the motor wiring.


There we connect the white 3-pin connector of the tachometer and the economizer, and the black 1-pin connector of the air conditioner. The connectors of the automatic transmission remain unused, we fasten them to the wiring harness. Maybe someday I'll want to install an automatic transmission, then I'll connect them! ;)
The ECU is covered with a plastic shield.


So, all the electrical equipment of the engine is installed and connected.

Next, we go to the ETK section on preparation and adjustment of the working mixture.

[The_Glory]

Collection_158. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture (part 1)

So, let's move on to the ETK section
Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture

I previously wrote about the assembly and installation of the choke. Now about other divisions.
I installed some parts a long time ago, when I was laying the fuel pipes, but I will write about them now.

Fuel supply system, filter




Part No. 1 - fuel filter D=80MM ( 13 32 1 270 038) - 1 pc. I always use a Mahle KL9 filter.
Part #2 - fuel filter with separator D=82MM (13 32 1 278 330) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 3 - fuel filter bracket (13 32 1 713 062) - 1 pc. At the same time, it is a bracket for an adsorber.
Part #4 - clamp L77-84 (07 12 9 952 131) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - M6 nut (07 14 7 134 319) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used.
Part #6 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - elastic ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 2 pcs.
Part #8, #11 - fuel hose 8X13MM (16 12 1 180 409).
Part #9, #12 - fuel line (13 32 1 289 037). In my case it is not used.
Part No. 10 - clamp L12-15 (07 12 9 952 104) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 13 - hollow screw M14X1.5X26 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 4 pcs. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 15 - fuel hose bracket (13 54 1 287 046) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - protective edging GRAU (51 72 1 832 146) - 1 pc.

We screw the filter bracket to the spar, fix the filter with a clamp. We put a protective edging on the edge of the spar so that the hose does not rub against it. We connect the hoses with clamps to the corresponding fuel tubes.
Fuel supply hose.


Tank return and ventilation hoses.


We fix the supply and return hoses to each other with a plastic bracket (#15).


The filter and its hoses are installed.

Fuel tank ventilation valve




Part No. 1 - fuel tank ventilation valve AB-ELEKTRONIK (13 90 1 726 705) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - fuel hose 32MM-210MM (13 31 1 288 284).
Part #3 - fuel hose 6X11MM (13 31 1 272 750).
Item No. 4 is not used.
Part #5 - fuel hose 8X13MM (16 12 1 180 409).
Part No. 6 - adapter - 1 pc. For some reason it is not listed in ETK.

We connect the hoses with clamps according to the diagram.




But we connect it to the adsorber.


We fix the adsorber with a clamp on the fuel filter bracket, connect the tank ventilation hoses to the corresponding tube.


We fix the ventilation hoses to each other with a plastic bracket.


We connect the valve to the throttle together with the vacuum tubes. I will write about it later.

Idle control system ECU




On earlier versions, a separate idle control ECU was installed near the Motronic ECU. It is not provided for in my, more recent, motor wiring. So, from this section, in my case, only sensors are used. I have already written about them in other sections.

Part No. 13 - temperature sensor (12 62 1 710 512) - 1 pc. For instrument panel (brown on 1 pin)
Part No. 14 - temperature sensor M12X1.5 (13 62 1 709 966) - 1 pc. For Motronic ECU (blue on 2 pins)
Part No. 15 - oil pressure sensor (61 31 1 354 274) - 1 pc.

We install the temperature sensors in the thermostat housing and connect them to the motor wiring.


We install the oil pressure sensor in the engine block under the oil filter and connect it to the yellow connector of the engine wiring.


We lay its wire together with the wire of the crankshaft position sensor.


Next, about the air filter and air flow meter.

[The_Glory]

Collection_159. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture (part 2)

Air flow meter




Part No. 1 - air flow meter (13 62 1 286 615) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - cap (13 62 1 363 874) - 1 pc. Red plastic cap. I once had it, but then it got lost somewhere. It is still available for order, but its price is not adequate, in my opinion. That's why I just selected the size of the plug from the ones I had in the garage.
Part No. 3 - rubber-metal hinge (13 71 1 272 495) - 3 pcs. Apparently this is a bug in ETK. These hinges are not used on E30 with M20B25.
Part #4 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 7 134 319) - 3 pcs. Not used.
Part No. 5 - L-shaped idle control valve (13 41 1 286 065) - 1 pc. It is T-shaped (13 41 1 433 626). It differs in the location of the flanges.
Part No. 6 - rubber bracket (13 41 1 705 5640 - 1 pc. For cars with a catalyst.
Part No. 7 - bracket (13 41 1 708 832) - 1 pc. For cars with a catalyst.
Part No. 8 - corrugated casing (13 71 1 708 800) - 1 pc. It differs for different idle control valves.
Part #9, #10 - clamp L71-78 (07 12 9 952 129) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - hose (13 41 1 718 777) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 2 pcs. Used only on cars after 88. But I decided to install them as well just in case.
Part No. 13 - rubber ring (13 71 1 272 494) - 1 pc. It is used only for heavy operating conditions (Heavy Duty). In my case it is not used.
Part No. 14...No. 17 - motor wiring connectors for the idle control valve and the air flow meter. I wrote about them in the section on motor wiring.

My air flow meter works fine, no one has done any DIY work on it, so I just cleaned it and painted it. And put the red plug in the adjustment hole.






Suction silencer. Filter Variable




Part No. 1 - suction silencer (13 71 1 726 965) - 1 pc. Plastic housing for the air filter.
Part #2 - replaceable filter element (13 72 1 720 861) - 1 pc. I use a BOSCH S9964 filter.

Part No. 3 - mounting bracket L=34MM (13 71 1 707 0440 - 4 pcs.
Part No. 4 - rubber pad (13 71 1 312 328) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rubber-metal hinge (13 71 1 259 818) - 2 pcs. I did not remove them from the filter housing.
Part No. 6 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 7 134 319) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - sealing gasket (13 71 1 705 064) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - locking nut M6 (51 21 1 803 3630 - 4 pcs.

Part #9 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 1 pc. Installed in the filter housing.
Part No. 10 - suction pipe (13 71 1 713 1280 - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - snorkel (13 71 1 284 612) - 1 pc. In my case it is not used. An insert in the headlight cover is used instead. I will write about this in the appropriate section.

There is another version of the housing for the air filter - with a metal box, for heavy operating conditions (Heavy Duty).

Suction silencer. Filter Variable


In my case, only one detail is used from it:
Part No. 7 - rubber pad (13 71 1 312 328) - 1 pc. I do not understand why it is not in the previous section of ETK. A place for its installation is also provided on the plastic case.

We screw the air flow meter to the filter housing with four No. 8 nuts, through a No. 7 gasket and one bolt, which is not specified in the ETK.
We snap a plastic diffuser into the filter housing, which for some reason is not specified in the ETK at all. Install filter #2 and brackets #3.


We close the filter housing and fix it with staples.






We install rubber insert No. 4 on the spar, and insert No. 7 on the bracket.


I installed the idle speed regulator valve bracket on the manifold even earlier.


We install the filter housing in the grooves of the bracket and fasten with two nuts together with the cruise control drive bracket.
We install the corrugation and the idle speed regulator valve, fix everything with clamps. We install the suction pipe. We connect the wiring connectors to the flow meter and the idle control valve.


Next, about vacuum hoses.

[The_Glory]

Collection_160. ETK_12_Engine. Engine with vacuum control system

Engine with vacuum control system




Part No. 1 - air compressor of the exhaust gas neutralization system (11 61 1 284 269) - 1 pc. A plastic tube consisting of two parts.
Part #2 - non-return valve (34 33 1 158 1130 - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - hose (34 33 1 153 977) - 1 pc.
Part #4, #5 - vacuum hose 12X19 (34 33 1 115 926)
Part No. 6 - clamp L18-24 (07 12 9 952 109) - 9 pcs.

I installed the hose on the vacuum brake booster a long time ago.
As a reminder, I installed a dual vacuum brake booster from an all-wheel drive E30 324ix, so the hose is on the other side and had to be shortened a bit.




We connect the hoses according to the ETK scheme. I immediately attached the throttle flanges to the hoses. They often fall out of the throttle body from old age. I put them on glue - I hope that now they will hold well.


We connect the hoses to the corresponding fittings on the throttle and to the corrugation and the vacuum brake booster. Between the hoses on the throttle there is another fitting - to it we connect the hose of the tank ventilation valve, which I wrote about earlier.


The vacuum hoses have been installed and are now positioned as follows:


Also connected to the throttle, and adjusted cables of the accelerator pedal and cruise control.

All that's left for me to do with the engine is the fuel injectors, radiator, and exhaust system.

I already mentioned the power steering hoses, so I will write about them next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_161. ETK_32_Grease lines of hydraulic power steering. Oil tank, parts

So, back to the ETK section
Steering and suspension geometry

Power steering oil pipes




Part #1 - not used.
Part #2 - hollow screw M14X1.5X26 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - sealing ring A14X20-ALMG (32 41 1 129 986) - 4 pcs.


Item No. 4 is not used.
Part No. 5 - high pressure hose (32 41 1 137 153) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - sealing ring A16X21-ALMG - 4 pcs. For some reason it is not specified in ETK/
Part No. 7 - hollow screw M16X28 (32 41 6 783 886) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - ring fitting (32 41 1 128 765) - 1 pc.

Part No. 9 - clamp L18-24 (07 12 9 952 109) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - clamp L15-19 (07 12 9 952 107) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 11 - hose 16X22MM (32 41 1 131 545) - 1 pc. The length is 0.5 m. The photo shows the old hose, because I lost the new one somewhere I have already ordered a new one again.
Part No. 12 - hose 12X18MM (32 41 1 131 524) - 1 pc. Length 0.5 m.
Part No. 13 - ring fitting (32 41 1 127 472) - 1 pc.


To make it more convenient, I screwed the hoses to the steering rack before installing the engine.
A high-pressure hose and a return hose are screwed to the rail.


Bolts and fittings have different diameters, so it is impossible to mix them up.


Oil tank, parts




Part No. 1 - tank for ATF lubricant (32 41 1 097 1640 - 1 pc. A filter is built into the tank, so it needs to be periodically replaced with a new one.
Part #2 - cover (32 41 1 128 332) - 1 pc.
Part No. 3 - sealing ring (32 41 1 128 333) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - bracket (32 41 1 126 321) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - elastic ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - M6 nut holder (32 41 1 127 1860 - 1 pc.

We insert the lock nut No. 8 into a special hole on the body, and screw the bracket No. 4. As I said, I installed a dual vacuum brake booster from an AWD E30 325ix, so it shifted forward significantly. And now there was such a problem with the installation of the hydraulic power steering tank...


Fortunately, this problem turned out not to be critical, and was easily solved by slightly bending the bracket.


And the tank still stood in its place.


But a little higher than it was before. This is also not critical.


Now it will be a little inconvenient to fill and check the brake fluid level in the brake cylinder reservoir, but it is also not critical.


I haven't bought the hydraulic power steering pump yet, so I'll write about it later.

In general, the engine is almost completely assembled.




I'm waiting for the radiators, then I'll finish everything on the engine and air conditioner.

[The_Glory]

Collection_162. ETK_63_Fog lights

A new MAHLE air conditioner radiator has arrived, but it is Made in China... What can I say.... I look at it and think that it might be better to install the old original radiator...? It looks much more reliable than this new Chinese one... Well, that's it... I was going to install the fan as well. Decided to check it again just in case...and it started jamming...sort of! Good thing I checked. I tried to disassemble it - the impeller stuck firmly to the axis... when I tried to knock it out, I broke it... It's good that a friend has the same fan, it's also broken - I'll try to assemble one of the two. Also, the record about radiators and air conditioning is postponed indefinitely...
For now, I will write about the headlights.
Lighting devices

I'll start with the fog lights.
Fog lights

On cars before restyling, there are two types of fog lights, depending on the type of front apron. By 1985, a "slanted" apron, and in 1985-1987, a "straight" apron. The difference is in the framework of fastening the headlights. The headlights themselves are the same. The glass of the fog lights could be transparent or yellow (for the French market).
So, in my case, this is a "straight" apron from 85-87 and, accordingly, headlights for it.



Some parts are not listed separately in ETK, and are assembled under one number. Here's how:



Part No. 1 - left (63 17 1 376 935) and right (63 17 1 376 936) fog light assembly - 2 pcs. Headlamp in housing, with wiring and with frame.
Part #2 - left (63 17 1 381 419) and right (63 17 1 381 420) fog lights - 2 pcs. The headlight in the case, with wiring and a bracket with a screw for adjusting the angle of the headlight.
Part #3 - diffuser left (63 17 1 375 067) and right (63 17 1 375 068) - 2 pcs. Headlight glass assembly with reflector.
Part No. 4 - halogen lamp 12V 55W H3 (63 21 7 160 779) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - diffuser mounting frame (63 17 1 374 883) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - self-tapping screw (07 14 6 977 197) - 4 pcs.

Part No. 7 - mounting frame (63 17 1 376 916) - 2 pcs. It comes complete with a rubber seal.

Item No. 8 is not used.
Part No. 9 - relay (61 36 8 353 447) - 1 pc. 5-pin relay (K8), black, similar to relay (K4) dipped beam and rear fog lights. It is installed in the fuse box, together with fuses #29 and #30. I wrote about it in the relay section.
Part No. 10 - shield (63 17 1 373 577) - 4 pcs. Plug in headlight mounting.
Part No. 11 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X13 (07 11 9 904 285) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 12 - spacer nut ST 4.8 WEISS (63 17 1 367 868) - 6 pcs.
Item No. 13 is not used.

The headlight housing is assembled with a diffuser seal, wiring and a bracket with a screw to adjust the angle of the headlight. I replaced the seal with a new one - I cut it from the same material. I installed the wiring and the bracket with the headlight angle adjustment screw.




Installed the lamps. By the way, about lamps. A few years ago I bought new original diffusers. I installed Osram Night Breaker +150% lamps in them. With these lamps, the headlight glass heated up very much. And after a few weeks, in the rain, when cold water from a puddle hit the glass, both new glasses cracked... So now I use standard lamps, without any "+100500%". Glass is not cheap, so I am not ready to buy new ones now. I left it as it is, with cracks - the reflectors are new, they shine well.


The glass is installed - the headlight in the housing, with wiring and a bracket with a screw for adjusting the angle of the headlight (No. 2).


We install plastic clips in the front apron from the inside.





We insert the rubber gasket into the frame, and fasten the headlight mounting frame with self-tapping screws.









But in my case these frames will not be used at all. I installed them just to keep them out of the garage. It's just a headlight fitting.


I already said that the fog lights were also yellow. I thought it would look good with the blue color of the car. I also decided to stick a yellow film on them. Additional protection for the glass, even though it is already cracked...



Standard lamps. Yellow protective film. It was necessary to do this right away, even then - maybe the glass would have been whole...


Another fitting.


The lights are ready for installation.


But I will install them not in the factory mounting frames on the front apron, but in the BBS apron. It provides for fixing headlights without frames. Here's how:


Looks nice, I like it! ;)


So, fog lights are installed.
And I will install the apron itself and the entire BBS body kit after I assemble the entire front end.

Next, perhaps, about the main headlights.
Or about the fan, if it turns out to be made of two ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (Part 1). Preparation and interesting experiments.

For some reason, I got a lot of photos of the headlights, so I decided to divide them into several parts.
In the first part, I will write about the preparation of headlights and interesting chemical experiments

So, a long time ago, I made an analogue of Hella Black headlights from ordinary Hella headlights. In my opinion, it turned out quite well. But over the years of operation, the appearance of the headlights has deteriorated a little...




So I decided to completely disassemble them again and bring them to their proper appearance. Cleaned and washed the glass, reflectors and lenses. New original seals are unreasonably expensive, so I replaced them with ordinary universal ones - they are no worse.




On the reflectors, the result of the same Osram Night Breaker +150% is slightly visible - spots and specks from overheating. Although, the reflectors were then re-plated with chrome.


Lenses


The main beam headlights were sanded, primed and painted.


Self-tapping screws and adjustment pins are galvanized.


My headlights have a hydraulic corrector. I did not disassemble the hydraulic drives (apparently they are not disassembled at all), so they remained ungalvanized. I sanded off their pins and decided to try to somehow protect them from corrosion at home.


I found a video about copper plating on YouTube - it seems that everything is simple and beautiful... So I decided to do these interesting chemical experiments!
I bought the necessary ingredients according to the "recipe" ;)

Copper sulfate - 100 g
Distilled water - 450 g
Electrolyte for batteries - 100 g


Prepare the mixture.
Pour copper sulfate.


Add water.


Then we add acid. Not vice versa! This is important!


We stir and get a liquid of a beautiful blue color. We carefully degrease the pins in a solvent or acid, and lower them into the solution for a second. And as a result of this chemical "focus" we get pins covered with copper!


It gets even better after a second dive.


But not for long... After complete drying, the coating became more like rust, and it was easy to rub off with hands!
So, the "trick" failed!
I had to re-sand the studs and simply paint them with zinc paint.


Now about the plastic threaded bushings for adjustment. For some reason, they are only available assembled with pins and plastic handles, and cost like gold!
Handles are different for low beam and high beam headlights. The pins also have different lengths.
I had as many as three types of pens.




The problem with the bushings and handles was solved thanks to a 3D printing friend of mine. Thank him for that.


Pin tips can be bought original or analogues. In addition to the two ends for the hydraulic corrector pins. They are available only in the original and are also not adequately priced. In the photo, there is a white sleeve at the bottom left. When I restore the operation of the hydraulic corrector, then maybe I will order them. Although, I don't understand what is the difference between them...
Well, the last of the preparatory work is gluing the protective transparent film on the headlights.


Now everything is ready to assemble the headlights.

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (part 2)

So the ETK section
Lighting devices

There are two types of headlights for the E30:
Before the restyling - ordinary headlights.
Details of a free-form headlight


After restyling - headlights with lenses.
Ellipsoidal Headlight Parts


They are structurally different and their parts are not interchangeable. But the headlights in the assembly are interchangeable. The difference is only in the wiring connectors.
Headlights come from two manufacturers - Hella or Bosch. The pre-88 low beam restyling headlights are not significantly different. After 1988, an additional cutout in the reflector mask appeared under the lens. The headlights of both manufacturers are interchangeable in terms of fastening, the connectors are the same.
Clear or yellow glass was available for each type of headlight. Also available for both types was a hydrocorrector of the angle of inclination of the dipped beam headlights, and a headlight cleaner.
I'm not sure, but I read somewhere that after '87 lensed headlights were available for early model E30s as a retrofit kit. I did it myself a long time ago - I bought restyling headlights with lenses, and replaced the headlight connectors in the main wiring.
As an aftermarket retrofit, headlights with Hella Black lenses were available - with the effect of dark optics. I made similar headlights myself.
Accordingly, in the following we will talk about such headlights - restyling headlights with lenses, a Hella Black analogue, with a hydraulic corrector and a headlight cleaner - the top configuration of headlights.


Part #1 - left (63 12 1 386 407) and right (63 12 1 386 408) high beam optical element - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - Hella diffuser left (63 12 1 385 633) and right (63 12 1 385 634) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - Hella reflector (63 12 1 390 270) - 2 pcs.


Part No. 4 - diffuser mounting ring (63 12 1 373 529) - 4 pcs. Headlight rings are silver. The same for all types of headlights. Optionally, they are chromed (fit with E32 or E34). For Hella Black headlights, the rings are black.
For headlights with a headlight cleaner, all four rings are different and have brush stops. The rings are numbered.

Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the left main beam diffuser 03 (63 12 1 385 591) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the main beam diffuser, right 04 (63 12 1 385 592) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the left dipped beam diffuser 01 (63 12 1 385 593) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - mounting ring of the low beam diffuser, right 02 (63 12 1 385 594) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - Hella protective cap (63 12 1 378 333) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - protective cap (63 12 8 357 401) - 2 pcs.


Part No. 7 - lamp socket (63 12 1 385 6030 - 2 pcs. Socket with wire and connector.
Part No. 8 - supporting frame left (63 12 1 385 601) and right (63 12 1 385 602) - 2 pcs. Plastic frames for mounting Hella headlights.
Part No. 9 - adjustment screw (63 12 1 385 397) - 8 pcs. Comes complete with plastic threaded sleeve and handle. If there is a hydraulic corrector - 6 pcs.
Part No. 10 - spacer (63 12 1 378 339) - 4 pcs. "Deaf" fastening of headlights for adjustment. It comes assembled with a plastic sleeve. After 1989, it was replaced by a one-piece plastic sleeve (63 12 1 394 252).
Part No. 11 - Schwarz hinge sleeve (63 12 1 378 369) - 12 pcs. Black headlight adjustment bushings. If there is a hydraulic corrector - 10 pcs.
Part No. 11 - hinge sleeve (63 12 1 386 616) - 2 pcs. White headlight adjustment bushings for hydraulic corrector.

Part No. 12 - halogen lamp 12V 55W H1 (63 21 7 160 777) - 4 pcs. Low beam and high beam lamps. I use Osram lamps.
Part No. 13 - lamp 12V 5W (63 21 7 160 797) - 2 pcs. Lamps of parking lights. I use Osram lamps.
Part No. 14 - screw M4X22 (63 12 1 379 998) - 6 pcs. Lens housing attachment.
Part No. 15 - self-tapping screw (63 12 1 352 070) - 6 pcs. Fixing headlights to the body. For some reason, the spare parts for self-tapping screws are not specified in the ETK - 6 pcs.
Part No. 16 - shield left (51 71 1 965 241) and right (51 71 1 965 252) - 2 pcs. Plastic protective shields for headlights.
Part No. 17 - adapter (63 12 1 385 604) - 2 pcs. Adapter for installing the headlight hydraulic corrector drive. Installed instead of adjustment screws #9. It is attached to the frame with two plastic pins, which are not specified in the ETK.
Part No. 18 - connecting part (51 71 1 942 084) - 1 pc. Plastic insert in the left headlight shield for the air filter nozzle.
Part No. 19 - sealing ring (63 12 1 386 641) - 2 pcs. It is unreasonably expensive, I replaced them with a universal seal. Just like the gaskets in the headlight covers, which are not listed in the ETK at all.

I don't know why, but the clips for fastening the protective shields of the headlights are in a separate section of the ETK.
Ellipsoidal headlight details

Part No. 20 - locking mechanism (51 71 1 916 197) - 4 pcs. Headlight shield mounting clip.
Part No. 21 - lock insert (51 71 1 916 199) - 4 pcs. Headlight shield mounting clip.

Let's start with low beam headlights. We screw the lens to the body of the reflector. They are the same on both sides.


We screw the reflector with the lens to the left and right housing of the headlight diffuser with three self-tapping screws with a new gasket.


This mount has adjustment grooves for right-hand and left-hand movement. For right-hand traffic, you need to install the lens in such a way that the "eye" on the lens body points to the R/D mark on the headlight body (apparently this is an abbreviation for Right Drive)


If you want to drive your E30 to Great Britain or Japan , then after crossing the border, in order not to dazzle oncoming traffic, you will need to unscrew these screws, and turn the lens to the I/G mark - I don't know what this abbreviation means, but it is for left-hand traffic.

We insert the lamp without touching the glass with our fingers, connect the contacts, and close the lid with a new gasket.




We put on the ring. The headlight is assembled.


Similarly, we assemble the second dipped beam headlight.

It's easier with high beam headlights. We insert the lamp without touching the glass with our fingers, connect the contacts, and close the lid with a new gasket.




We put on the ring. The headlight is assembled.


Similarly, we assemble the second high-beam headlight.

All headlights are assembled. Now you need to install them and the adjustment screws on the plastic frames.


P.S.
I made several different colored sets of rings - black, silver and blue (the color of the car). I used to change them periodically ;)


It's a pity that there is only one set for the headlight cleaner. - with limiters for brushes. But maybe someday I will change it for variety!


Next, about the installation of headlights and adjustment screws on plastic frames.

[The_Glory]

Collection_163. ETK_63_Headlights (Part 3)

So, we install the headlight adjustment screws.
We start with "deaf" hairpins that stand still. These are the four shortest pins, without threads. We tightly put plastic sleeves on them so that the distance from the sleeve to the edge of the hinge is 25 millimeters.


After 89, these pins were plastic, and made in one piece with a sleeve - something similar to mine was made on a 3D printer. There will be spares.
We insert the pins into the holes in the frame and turn it 90 degrees. For high beam headlights, this is the lower inner hole, and for low beam headlights, it is the upper outer hole.


The sleeve must be fixed in the groove.




View from the inside.


The bushings are turned 90 degrees.




Now install the adjustment screws.
The length of the adjustment screws for the main beam headlights is 84 millimeters - 4 pcs.
The length of the adjusting screws for dipped beam headlights is 77 millimeters - 2 pcs. (without hydraulic corrector - 4 pcs.)


As I already wrote in the first part, plastic bushings and handles are not available for order separately - only assembled with screws. They are unreasonably expensive. You can buy screws by the Hella number, but they are not much cheaper, and judging by the reviews, they are shorter.
So a friend of mine printed these bushings and handles for me on a 3D printer. The knobs are different for the low and high beam screws.
We screw the bushing onto the screw, then slightly heat the edge of the screw and put the handle on tightly.
We insert the screws into the corresponding holes in the frames, diagonally, and turn them 90 degrees. For dipped headlights, insert the screw only into the upper hole. The hydraulic corrector drive will be installed in the lower one.


The sleeve must be fixed in the groove.




View from the inside.


The bushings are turned 90 degrees.




We screw the hydraulic corrector drive into the adapter.


We snap the adapter into special holes in the frame, and fix it with two spacer plastic pins.


Adjustment screws and actuators of the hydraulic corrector are installed.


Align approximately all the screws along the length.


We insert plastic bushings into the "ears" on the headlight housing. Special white bushings for hydraulic corrector. Although, for now, I have installed ordinary white bushings I don't understand what the difference is, except for the inadequate price for them... When I restore the corrector or buy a new one, I will order them as well, and so far.


We carefully snap the bushings onto the hinges of the screws.




The same goes for the main beam headlights, but here all three bushings are the same.


We carefully snap the bushings onto the hinges of the screws.




We insert the cartridge with the marker lamp into the housing of the dipped beam headlight, and fix it by turning the lever on the cartridge. We fix the wire on special hooks on the headlight frame.


We snap the connector into a special hole on the headlight frame.


The headlights are fully assembled.


Roughly align them with screws.


We install mounting plates for 6.3 mm self-tapping screws on the body. Three pieces on each side. We screw the headlights into these sockets with self-tapping screws.




From the inside, we snap into the body the retainers and clips for attaching the protective shields of the headlights.




But I will install the headlights and shields a little later. It is necessary to first install the headlight cleaner drives on the headlights.







So, the headlights are ready.
Headlight




Part #1 - double headlight with adjustment left (63 12 1 394 259) and right (63 12 1 394 260) - 2 pcs.

The latest division of ETK on lighting devices:
Rotating flashing light


The rotating flashlight was available in blue, red, and yellow. Well, it's clear that this is an option for special cars, so I don't have it, and I won't have it.


Next, about the installation of the headlight cleaner drives.

[The_Glory]

Collection_164. ETK_61_Details of the headlight washer system

Let's go back to the ETK section
General electrical equipment of the car

Headlight washers are a fairly rare option for the E30. It was not available for the US market at all, no wonder. But it was installed in the basic configuration on European all-wheel drive models.

Headlight cleaner drives are located in the unit
Headlight washer system parts








Part #1 - left (61 63 1 370 895) and right (61 63 1 370 896) windshield wiper motor - 2 pcs.
Part #2 - fasteners (61 63 1 370 8940 - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - bolt with washer M6X16 (07 11 9 904 5240 - 4 pcs.
Part #4 - M6 nut ( 07 12 9 922 705) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - toothed washer J10.5 (07 11 9 936 2270 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 6 - nut (61 63 1 363 530) - 2 pcs. There are six such nuts in total - but two nuts and one bushing are included in the set of each electric motor.
Part No. 7 - rubber cap (61 63 1 359 5310 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - wiper lever left (61 63 1 370 887) and right (61 63 1 370 888) - 2 pcs. Comes complete with plastic brush holders.
Part No. 9 - windshield wiper brush (61 63 1 356 734) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 10 - M5 nut (07 11 9 905 710) - 2 pcs. I also had washers and elastic rings installed.
Part No. 11 - headlight washer system wiring harness (61 12 1 370 730) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - bracket D = 13MM (61 13 1 371 0740 - 2 pcs.

Wiring harness




1 - connector of the ECU of the headlight washer system
2 - "male" connector to the main wiring of the washer pump (purple-black, brown-black)
3 - windshield washer pump connector (purple-black, brown-black) - large tank, in place of the standard
4 - connector for the intensive windshield washer pump (purple-black, brown-gray) - small tank
5 - headlight washer pump connector (blue, brown) - large tank, on the back side
6 - connector of the right electric motor
7 - connector of the left electric motor
8 - power connector, to the main wiring
9 - "mass" terminal G104

I installed the wiring a long time ago, along with other harnesses.
My electric drives work normally, without extra sounds and problems, so I decided not to disassemble them just like that. Moreover, it is not very simple - the latches are very tight, so there are chances of breaking them.


So I just washed and cleaned everything thoroughly.
We install the bushings, screw the nut, then install the bracket and screw it with a nut with a toothed washer.


We put a rubber cap on the stem - an important detail that protects the stem from dirt and moisture.


We snap the plastic brush holders onto the lever, then we snap the brush hinges into the holder.
Electric drives and brushes are assembled.


We fix the wires in special hooks on the engine housing. On the machine, connectors are fixed in special holders No. 12.


By the way, about brushes. New headlight brushes are no longer available or are very expensive. My brushes are still in more or less normal condition, but the rubber has become quite hard from old age. My clubmate made a similar rubber profile for the brushes.




But it will be necessary to somehow pick up some kind of elastic plate in it and figure out how to fix it in the hinge. Maybe I'll do it later...

So, we screw the electric drives to the headlight frames. There are special holes for this purpose.


Here you can also see a special hole for the washer hose.


Now the headlights are completely ready for installation.




Brush levers, of course, will be installed after installing the decorative grilles of the radiator.

The next subsection is on the details of headlight washers
Headlight washer system parts




Part No. 1 - tank for washing liquid (61 67 1 370 777) - 1 pc. Tanks differ in shape, size and location for diesel and four-wheel drive models.
Part #2 - windshield washer pump (61 66 1 368 589) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (61 66 1 365 657) - 3 pcs.

Part No. 4 - washer fluid level sensor (61 31 1 369 263) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - rubber sleeve (61 31 1 369 343) - 1 pc.

Part No. 6 - cover of the tank of the intensive washer (61 66 1 369 516) - 1 pc. The cap is white. An earlier cover (61 66 1 373 175) is red with a vent hole.
Part #7 - sign "Intensivreinigung" (51 14 1 885 911) - 1 pc. Plastic tag on the lid, red color.
Part No. 8 - windshield wiper and washer ECU (61 31 1 367 391) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - self-tapping screw ST4.8X13 (07 11 9 907 957) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - sheet nut (61 67 1 372 655) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - windshield washer tank cover (61 66 1 364 807) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - tank filter (61 66 1 365 8480 - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - plastic nut (61 66 1 368 599) - 1 pc. Tank mounting.

Part No. 14 - adapter (61 66 1 355 9390 - 1 pc. Plastic "tee" for headlight washer hoses.
Part No. 15 - valve (61 66 1 380 464) - 2 pcs. Check valve.
Part No. 16 - hose D= 4.6MM (61 66 1 357 388)

Part #17 - nozzle (61 67 1 369 1240 - 2 pcs. I did not remove the nozzles from the decorative grills so as not to break them.

Part No. 18 - wire holder D=16.8MM (12 52 1 276 1470 - 4 pcs.
Part No. 19 - adapter (61 66 1 378 617) - 2 pcs. Not used. Apparently, this is an analogue of detail No. 14.
Part No. 20 - tank (61 67 1 385 254) - 1 pc. Not used. For diesel or four-wheel drive models.
Part No. 21 - filter mesh (61 66 1 371 257) - 1 pc. Not used. For diesel or four-wheel drive models.
Part No. 22 - gasket (16111176910) - 1 pc. Not used. Felt gasket under the tank for diesel models. I had some leftovers on my tank, so I decided to make it like this:


So, we glue the felt gasket on the tank in the places of contact with the body. We install the headlight washer pump from the back of the tank and connect the hose with the adapter and valves.


We install the washer fluid level sensor and the windshield washer pump in standard places. We install a pump for intensive cleaning of the windshield in a small tank. We install and screw the ECU. I broke the ECU mount on the tank, so I made a homemade one. We close the tanks with lids with a tag.


The tank is ready for installation. We lay the hose together with the wiring harnesses. But I will install it a little later, when everything is ready for the assembly of the front part of the car.


In ETK, all parts of the headlight washer system were also available as a single retrofit kit.
Headlight washer system retrofit kit




Part No. 1 - headlight washer system retrofit kit (61 67 1 372 665) - 1 pc. No longer available to order.

Next, about the installation of the radiator and air conditioner fan. After that, it will be possible to finally completely assemble the front part of the car.

[The_Glory]

I can't copy the text of the post here again... I don't understand what this has to do with it?