Malachtgrun 320i cabrio from Australia

[Tzantushka]

No worries!
Hope it's a simple bulb reposition.

In other updates, fixed the DWS with the windscreen wipers.
(Dopey Washer Syndrome)

Every time I went to wash the windscreen it would take a few wiper passes before the washer fluid came out.
I know the washer hose was tired and needed replacing.
Well, as it turns out the check valve was missing - was replaced with a simple 'Y' joiner - so that would explain the drain-back of washer fluid between uses.



I don't have headlight washers or heated nozzles, which makes life simple.

You'll need item 15 (Valve) P/N which is 61661374978



OR do what I did and source the OEM part which I understand is BBR Automotive P/N 003-60-12387.

Also replaced the washer hose while I was there.
Sure, I could have used a generic 4.6mm hose, but wanted to keep things period correct.
From memory you need about 2.3m of hose to do the main run from the pump to the check valve.
Plus a bit more from the check valve to the washer nozzles.

Few pointers to avoid unnecessary work & make installation easy:

Tape the old hose to the new hose with some strong tape



Pull the old hose out through one of the openings in the bonnet.



While feeding the new hose from the top



And keep feeding it down past the RH headlight



Check there is the right amount of hose near the bonnet hinge.
- not too long so it gets caught when the bonnet is closed
- not too short so it under strain when the bonnet is open

If you like taking off your bonnet frequently , you can add a joiner here for quick disconnect/reconnect.

Interesting to know that VDO made the original hose...


Windscreen washers work brilliantly - water on the glass before the first wiper sweep!

[wilma84]

No worries!
Hope it's a simple bulb reposition.

In other updates, fixed the DWS with the windscreen wipers.
(Dopey Washer Syndrome)

Every time I went to wash the windscreen it would take a few wiper passes before the washer fluid came out.
I know the washer hose was tired and needed replacing.
Well, as it turns out the check valve was missing - was replaced with a simple 'Y' joiner - so that would explain the drain-back of washer fluid between uses.



I don't have headlight washers or heated nozzles, which makes life simple.

You'll need item 15 (Valve) P/N which is 61661374978



OR do what I did and source the OEM part which I understand is BBR Automotive P/N 003-60-12387.

Also replaced the washer hose while I was there.
Sure, I could have used a generic 4.6mm hose, but wanted to keep things period correct.
From memory you need about 2.3m of hose to do the main run from the pump to the check valve.
Plus a bit more from the check valve to the washer nozzles.

Few pointers to avoid unnecessary work & make installation easy:

Tape the old hose to the new hose with some strong tape



Pull the old hose out through one of the openings in the bonnet.



While feeding the new hose from the top



And keep feeding it down past the RH headlight



Check there is the right amount of hose near the bonnet hinge.
- not too long so it gets caught when the bonnet is closed
- not too short so it under strain when the bonnet is open

If you like taking off your bonnet frequently , you can add a joiner here for quick disconnect/reconnect.

Interesting to know that VDO made the original hose...


Windscreen washers work brilliantly - water on the glass before the first wiper sweep!

Interesting! I also replaced the valve on mine as neither washer really worked... I also cleaned out the jets with some degreaser as I heard they could get clogged up after years of wax building up inside them. The result was a perfectly working driver's side jet but nothing on the passenger side. Better than nothing!

Did you replace the jets as well - item 10 I believe on the diagram? If so, how did you get the jets out of the bonnet as I can't for the life of me work out how to do it and don't want to break it in the process. I'd like to have a proper go cleaning it out... and if not then just replace with a new one, and probably do the hoses whilst I'm at it

[martauto]

Have a look at this K10 relay for the wipers, for the price they are brilliant

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=282904&p=2988257&hi ... y#p2988257

Mart.

[coopman]

Interesting. My hose follows a slightly different route and appears to be missing a clip - it always seemed a bit "wrong".

[DanThe]

Dod you buy VDO hose? Looks great either way!

You have routed that hose slightly wrong btw, will post a pic from my phone shortly

[Tzantushka]

Dod you buy VDO hose? Looks great either way!
You have routed that hose slightly wrong btw, will post a pic from my phone shortly

This hose came from FCP out the U.S.A.
Looks virtually identical & measures-up the same - but without the VDO branding like on the original.

I followed the hose routing & clips that were already there.
If you can snap a pic of the correct routing - that would be helpful.

Interesting. My hose follows a slightly different route and appears to be missing a clip - it always seemed a bit "wrong".

Yours might the correct route...
I'd say my bonnet has been off when the car had some paint repairs early in it's life.
The fact that it was missing the check valve indicates someone has fiddled with it.

Did you replace the jets as well - item 10 I believe on the diagram? If so, how did you get the jets out of the bonnet as I can't for the life of me work out how to do it and don't want to break it in the process. I'd like to have a proper go cleaning it out... and if not then just replace with a new one, and probably do the hoses whilst I'm at it

Yep, I have new jets - you'll see them in the last pic.
A pair of needle nose pliers is what you need to squeze the legs against the nozzle shaft & they pop-out.

[DanThe]

[Tzantushka]

Aha - so that's factory hose routing?
(through the circular hole closest to the edge of the bonnet)

Pic is worth a thousand words.

[Tzantushka]

I liked the sport steering wheel.
But I really like the MTech1 much better.

[coopman]

Snap. I've kept the sports wheel just in case.

[Tzantushka]

Snap. I've kept the sports wheel just in case.

Would have REALLY loved a 370mm MTech1 wheel...
But given the 'drug money' prices for the 370mm wheels and the fact it's going into: an auto, convertible, with the standard steering rack = that just doesn't make sense

[coopman]

Snap. I've kept the sports wheel just in case.

Would have REALLY loved a 370mm MTech1 wheel...
But given the 'drug money' prices for the 370mm wheels and the fact it's going into: an auto, convertible, with the standard steering rack = that just doesn't make sense

Mine's 370mm, which makes sense because it's a manual, convertible, with the standard steering rack.

[Tzantushka]

Still driving & enjoying the hell out of the car before winter kicks in.
Really loving the Mtech1 wheel.

Otherwise, in breaking news...
Sneak preview on taking paint correction to the next level:







New gear box mounts tomorrow and we are ready for a few day trips over the Easter holidays

[TriggerFish]

Stunning car overall, but that first (indoor) paint correction photo - the colour is absolutely beautiful!

[ocde30]

Your car has looked good for years while you have been keeping us updated with progress but now....it looks stunning - hope you are very proud? Enjoy Easter.

[ah]

To next level, What stratasferic level !

[ah]

To next level, What stratasferic level ! That’s looks the absolute nuts.

[Tzantushka]

To next level, What stratasferic level ! That’s looks the absolute nuts.

Thanks!
I'm really happy with it - next best thing to a re-spray.

Your car has looked good for years while you have been keeping us updated with progress but now....it looks stunning - hope you are very proud? Enjoy Easter.

Cheers & it's good fun keeping you guys updated.
Fair to say I'm utterly stoked with how it came out.
Also, fair to say we went on quite a few drives over Easter

Stunning car overall, but that first (indoor) paint correction photo - the colour is absolutely beautiful!

And thank you.
I haven't been able to capture the real colour of Malachite Green from some of the phone pics.
The more I look at the colour, the more I like it.

SPEAKING of photos...

Here’s the backstory on the above pics.
The E30 bodywork & paint was in very good condition for its age (had been repainted a few times earlier in its life).
The paint correction & DIY ceramic coating from 2020 held-up reasonably well, but had light scratches & marring in a number of places – especially around the front fenders when the head was getting fixed.

Rather than get in trouble from the family for spending a weekend ‘cleaning the car’ – I went to one of the best guys in Melbourne who I’ve used before (Dans Garage).
Dan spends 2-3 days working on each car like it was his own. The attention to detail and workmanship is amazing. One of the reasons why there is a ‘wait list’ months long for correction & coatings.

Next to having a brand-new paintjob – the results were absolutely fantastic and much more than I wanted.
That is, bring back the shine to the old girl, while providing longer-term protection from the elements & weekend use through the year.
The car has a few dings and rather than try and correct them with PDR I’m happy to celebrate the minor flaws and not stress about having everything concours perfect.

The pics speak for themselves, enjoy.












And some of the before and after photos that Dan documents along the way.

[DanThe]

Wow! You can really see just how nice that colour is now

[coopman]

I'll be in Melbourne on Thursday - bring it to the city for a run?!

[Tzantushka]

I'll be in Melbourne on Thursday - bring it to the city for a run?!

Will shoot you a PM.

[ah]

Shorly this car can’t get any better.

[Tzantushka]

Shorly this car can’t get any better.

Maybe...
- a M20B25
- 15" basketweaves
- better stereo
There's always room for tinkering

And there is always something to do.
The overhead check panel was giving me the shits.
Some days the brake check light would randomly come on (bulbs are fine).
Other days the rear lights and/or number plate light would come on (even if it was switched off + bulbs are fine)

It was working fine for a few years and only recently started playing up.
Checked all the bulb holders + bulb holder connectors and they were tight & corrosion free.
So likely it's a module or earth issue.

With the convertible you can reach the earth point on the LHS under the rear seat.





Cleaned up the ground eyelet with the pencil rubber trick & applied some electrical conductive grease - clean & tight.

I had to adjust the LH rear window to stop it binding on the door glass.
Good opportunity to remove the LH rear trim card and have a look at the check module - this fella...



Carefully opened-up the cover and checked all the reed switch coils.
All good, no cracked solder joints, tests OK.

Put it back together, lo and behold - no random check lights.
Thankfully that was a quick & easy fix.

[Tzantushka]

Well, it's winter in here (July) so not much E30 action.
Small fiddly tasks are the only highlights.

The washer reservoir cap was original and was starting to break apart.
Have seen the replacement BMW part which is a black one, also seen blue versions as well.

Rather than have the cap become the focus of the engine bay...
Came across this Mercedes item.



Part number A1638690508
(W163 M-Class)

It's a similar colour & shape to the 34 y.o. original, cheap, widely available and fits perfectly.





Good to share these small finds!

[Tzantushka]

Nothing major to report with the car - have been driving it weekly while waiting for spring and summer to finally arrive.
It's been wet, really wet, so not great cabrio weather

Finally saved enough pennies to upgrade the radio.
From this:



To this:



Works a treat but a little bit of faffing around to make it work.

Firstly, I have a (half) premium sound system, no amplifier, the fader in the dash, so tweeters in the doors with the head unit powering the speakers directly.
Many of the wiring diagrams and how-to on the web didn't apply.
So had to run a new ground to the LH & RH front speakers and re-purpose the existing LH and RH common ground for the left & right rear speakers.
Ditched the fader, followed the Blaupunkt wiring diagrams and everything was fine.

Also ended up using an active aerial splitter (12V powered) to avoid using the DAB stick-on antenna.
Works ok, but not as good as a dedicated multidirectional antenna.

Our son loves the remote from the back seat and the convenience of Bluetooth streaming is great.
Having a head unit with more power and dedicated 4x channels is fanstastic.

[Tzantushka]

Finally...
A chance to have some roof down driving.

[martauto]

Bloody awesome mate
Hope your summer will be as good as mine was , top down most days and loved it .

Mart.

[coopman]

I had my roof down this weekend for a trip to Bondi. That might sound nice, but one journey through the harbour tunnel and my interior is now full of soot.

[Tzantushka]

And finally a decent summer weekend arrived.
Blue sky with a few fluffy clouds, 86F // 30C - perfect time to take the family up a 3hr drive into regional Victoria and back.

Just great when you can turn the key & go.
​​​​​​​Although did have a pesky bulb out check light come on - with no bulb out...



Had to put the roof up and A/C on as it was actually getting a bit warm in the sun coming home on the motorway.
But you're right Mart - bloody good with the roof down.

[Tzantushka]

I had my roof down this weekend for a trip to Bondi. That might sound nice, but one journey through the harbour tunnel and my interior is now full of soot.

Well, I took your advice and had the roof up when we went through the Domain tunnel under the river.
Thankfully not too many trucks spewing out diesel smoke.

[Tzantushka]

Well, apart from driving the hell out of the car over summer - only small things to report.
Small but fun things.

Like the wheel brace in the boot.
I was never happy with the wheel brace because it flopped around in only one of the locating holes.



So ended up getting this:



Part # 72601916260 (Clamp)
Honestly, for a small plastic part that came all the way from Lithuania to Australia - it's a perfect opportunity for 3D printing to help out the E30 community.
Shame I don't have a 3D scanner or 3D printer.



No more '...clunk in the trunk...'

[Tzantushka]

Well, after 35 years the bonnet cable finally gave up the ghost.

Thinking it was going to be a major pain and expensive exercise it wasn't too bad.

Firstly, the part is still available from BMW (51231884281 Engine hood mechanism).
And comes with a new interior handle & bracket...
And at a very reasonable price (less than A$75 / £36) from a local BMW dealer in Melbourne....
No overseas freight - brilliant



Installation was easy thanks to the E30Zone guide on replacing the bonnet cable and the Classic Bimmer Bits E30 Hood Release Replacement article.

The emergency bonnet release location worked a treat.



Hardest part was seating the rubber grommet in the firewall.
Few tips:
- Removing the headlight gives you plenty of working room
- Best to clean and lubricate the hood latch mechanism
- unbolting the fuse box and bonnet catch also gives you plenty of room
- check for rust while the fuse box is loose

Thankfully no rust for me.

[coopman]

Well, apart from driving the hell out of the car over summer - only small things to report.
Small but fun things.

Like the wheel brace in the boot.
I was never happy with the wheel brace because it flopped around in only one of the locating holes.



So ended up getting this:



Part # 72601916260 (Clamp)
Honestly, for a small plastic part that came all the way from Lithuania to Australia - it's a perfect opportunity for 3D printing to help out the E30 community.
Shame I don't have a 3D scanner or 3D printer.



No more '...clunk in the trunk...'

Do you have a picture of how the jack should be positioned in the boot? Something's not right with how I've got mine - lots of 'clunk in the trunk'.

[Tzantushka]

Do you have a picture of how the jack should be positioned in the boot? Something's not right with how I've got mine - lots of 'clunk in the trunk'.

Coops, not handy.
As the car is off-site while we need access to the driveway.

Can only dig-out some photos from the interwebs - here.
And here.

Clunking can also come from the jack if it hasn't been lowered properly, and/or the wheel chock not secured.

[coopman]

Do you have a picture of how the jack should be positioned in the boot? Something's not right with how I've got mine - lots of 'clunk in the trunk'.

Coops, not handy.
As the car is off-site while we need access to the driveway.

Can only dig-out some photos from the interwebs - here.
And here.

Clunking can also come from the jack if it hasn't been lowered properly, and/or the wheel chock not secured.

Thanks. I'm missing almost everything, except the jack itself Will also check the jack is fully lowered.