E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Good evening! E30 from Ukraine.

I have owned this car since 2008, but I decided to write about it on a foreign forum only now. Although I read all the time and look for useful information here.
I am one of the organizers of the Ukrainian BMW E30 Club, so I blogged about my car on the forum of our club. I also wrote on the Russian forum, but, for obvious reasons, now I don't even want to go there.
Decided to expand the audience to the West ;)
Of course, I will not duplicate everything here, but for those who are interested, here is the content of the past 10 years:
http://forum.e30club.com.ua/index.php/topic,40.0.html
Or here, in a more convenient form:
https://driver.top/car/20194

So, I present to you my E30. It used to be called the "sedan of an interesting color" because it looked like this:


After 10 years of ownership, a new chapter in the life of my E30 began, namely, a complete disassembly for an overhaul of the body, painting and assembly like a "weekend" car. Now she looks different, and her name is "Shadow of Intelligence".
The concept of the project - assembly as much as possible in accordance with ETK and ETM, and maximum equipment with original options, in accordance with EBA - full options. The process has already dragged on for 4 years, so here I will first duplicate the old restoration records up to today. And then, already in real time.
There will be many photos, as I try to describe everything in as much detail as possible. Some photos and things may even seem terrible But these are the consequences of harsh operation on Ukrainian roads, and repairs in the absence of normal service in the 90s, when these cars arrived here. By the way, in my case, this is not the worst option for the condition of the car. By our standards ;) In Western Europe and the USA, the E30 has been preserved much better.

PS
I don't know a foreign language very well, so I use a translator. Maybe somewhere the translation will not be completely correct, sorry. This is especially true of old records that I just copy.

[The_Glory]

So, I'll start with the factory configuration.
She was more than modest:

Vehicle data
Type code 1351
Type 316 (EUR)
E-series E30 ()
Series 3
LIM type
Steering LL
Door 4
M10 engine
Working volume 1.80
Drive HECK
MECH gearbox
Color PLATANENGRUEN METALLIC (188)
Upholstery PINIENGRUEN (0149)
Date of extraction 1984-11-02

Additional. equipment
Code Name (port) Name (EPC)
S286A BMW LM RAD/BMW STYLING BMW ALLOY WHEEL BMW DESIGN
S300A ZENTRALVERRIEGELUNG ELEKTRISCH CENTRAL LOCK WITH ANTI-THEFT DEVICE.
S311 ELEKTRISCHER BEIFAHRERSPIEGEL (right electric mirror)
S320A MODELLSCHRIFTZUG ENTFALL MISSING MODEL DESIGNATION
S350A WAERMESCHUTZGLAS GRUEN, RUNDUM HEAT-INSULATING GLASS GREEN
S400A SCHIEBE-HEBEDACH, MECHANISCH MANUAL OPERATED HATCH COVER

Green 316 with an M10 engine on a carburetor, green interior, green glass, and in terms of configuration, it is almost as empty as a drum.

But in 2000, it was technically transformed into a full-fledged 325i, and was painted in an "interesting color" - a white base, plus a combined pink and purple "chameleon", plus varnish. It was a creative experiment of a painter. It turned out to be an unusual mother-of-pearl, shimmering in different shades, at different angles in the sun. Unfortunately, the photo does not fully convey it... It looked beautiful and attracted people's attention. ;)
Well, there were also different colors under the hood.
This is how I bought it after Christmas 2008.

Photo at the time of purchase in all its beauty and colors!









Collage for her 30th birthday ;)



At the moment, the car has the following configuration:
("equipment at the time of purchase of the car"
"[S] replaced, with something better [/S]")


Motor
М20В25 [S]kat[/S]
Release M20B25 [S]with catalyst[/S]
S195 Catalyst Removal (Double Stronger)
M50 radiator with expansion tank
[S]Additional electric fan[/S]
Oil cooler
Valvoline Oil-Level-Matic automatic filling system

Transmission
5-speed gearbox
S209 Self-locking differential S3.73
Thick axles 27mm
Short-stroke slide, analogue of Z3M

Brake
S210 ABS
Front ventilated disc brakes
Rear disc brakes
Dual vacuum brake booster 325ix

Steering and Suspension
S215 Power steering
[S]TA-Technix Coilover Kit[/S]
Front struts 51mm
Eibach Pro Kit springs (-40mm front, -30mm rear)
MTS-Technik front shock absorbers
Bilstein B6 rear shock absorbers
Eccentric integrally poured silent blocks of the M3 front arms
Front stabilizer M-Technic (20mm)
M-Technic rear stabilizer (14.5 mm)
[S]Front spacer (hand made)[/S]
Eibach front spacer
Rear spacer (hand made)
Medium spacer (hand made) analogue of the E30 convertible

Electrics and original options
S235 Removable tow bar (not installed)
S240 Airbag (only electrical part installed)
S300 Central locking
S301 Anti-theft alarm (with magnetic key)
S308 Trinket box with lock and key
S311 Right mirror with electric adjustment
S314 Heating of exterior mirrors, including heating of the door lock / washer nozzles
S401 Sunroof with electric drive
[S]S410 Front electric windows[/S]
S411 Front and rear electric windows
S425 Large Tool Box (without tools, not installed)
S428 Emergency stop sign / first aid kit with built-in storage box
S464 Cover for transporting skis
S494 Heated front seats
S495 Heating of the rear part of the cabin (standard on all four-doors)
S496 Heated rear seats (hand made), analog E32/E34
S500 Headlight washer system, including intensive windshield cleaning
S510 Headlight hydrocorrector system (not working yet)
S520 Fog lights
S530 Air conditioner
S540 Speed ​​control (cruise control)
[S]S542 Active Check Control (USA)[/S]
S542 Active Check Control (Japan Top)
S545 Tachometer with econometer
S548 Speedometer km
S551 On-board computer BC II (13 buttons)
[S]S556 ATA (Outside temperature display with frost warning) (6 buttons) [/S]
S562 Rear view mirror with lamps for reading maps
S785 White front corner glass (optional smoke and orange)
S806 Third brake light (USA)
S832 Battery in luggage compartment
S845 Audible warning of seat belt not fastened (USA) (electrical part installed only)
S850 Additional tank Export (electrical part installed only)
S853 Inscription for instrument panel, English.
S860 Front side turn signals (white E38 turn signals)
S900 Recognized AZT/TÜV immobilizer
S940 Special option (BMW Individual) color Individual 1991 - Pur Blau Metallic (253)
Check Engine (USA)
Headlights with Hella black lenses (hand made)
Startec rear lights
Rear lights with additional trunk lighting
Illuminated key
Portable flashlight with recharging in a box for small things
Interior front lighting (hand made)
Signal light on
Relay for the comfort of interior lighting
Electric window comfort relay
[S]Ammeter[/S]
Complete set of tools
Organizer for small things in the spare wheel disc
Covering the trunk lid
Torsions of the trunk lid M-Technic
Hood trim
Emergency light

Interior
S414 Mesh on the front passenger side
S415 Solar blind with mechanical drive
S417 Sunscreen curtain for the rear door window
S435 Made from valuable wood species
____Momo wooden steering wheel
____Wooden original gear lever handle
____Wooden original overlay on the lid of the box for small things
____Wooden original overlay on the light switch
S440 Non-smoker package (original box for small items, instead of the front ashtray)
S481 BMW Sportsitze sports seats for driver and front passenger
S497 Rear central armrest
S498 Rear head restraints
M-Technic badges on the front and rear seats
Kamei front armrest
E34 rubber mats
Left footrest M-Technic I

Exterior
S320 Missing model designation
S324 Front spoiler / rear spoiler in body color
[S]Jimmy Hill Front Spoiler (Replica)[/S]
Breyton fender [S]with additional brake light[/S]
[S]Original pads on the bottom of the rear fenders from 325ix
BBS Thresholds[/S]
S339 Shadow Line Equipment Kit
S350 Heat-insulating glass green
S354 Windshield with green stripe
S387 Windshield
S844 Exterior mirrors in body color
Eyelashes in body color (replica)
Kamei's eyelashes are black
Kamei's nostrils are black
Original winter nostrils
Original summer (for air conditioning) nostrils in body color
Normal nostrils are black
Cover under the back number
Original rare BBS body kit all around (almost 2.5 sets)

Wheels
S296 Alloy wheels 365x150 TD ET35 з TD 220/55VR365 (Michelin TRX)
S299 Lockable wheel bolts for alloy wheels
OZ rims (ALPINA look, King) 7J15 ET13 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 195/60R15 winter
MIM 1900 rims 7J15 ET13 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 205/55R15
Borbet A wide rims with flat caps 7.5J16 ET20 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 185/55R16, 9J16 ET15 PCD 4x100 DIA57.1 215/45R16 summer

Music and more
[S]JVC CD player, 4 speakers (Sony front, Pioneer rear), Panasonic amplifier and some self-made subwoofers and tweeters. [/S]
[S]mp3 radio SONY, 6 speakers (front Nokia, Sony, rear Clarion)[/S]
[S]Bosch active antenna[/S]
S623 BMW D-Netz Car Phone with FSE (BMW Classic GSM900)
S624 Hands-Free package for BMW car phone
S651 Radio Bavaria C Reverse
S653 BMW digital radio receiver
S655 Radio Bavaria C Business
S659 Radio Bavaria Electronic CD II (Blaupunkt Munchen SCD09)
S661 Radio Bavaria C Business RDS
S663 Radio Bavaria C Electronic
S675 BMW Soundsystem (except Clarion rear speakers)
S682 Antenna with electric drive
S690 Cassette holder with fill indicator (not installed)
S690 Cassette holder with fill indicator (in door pocket, USA)
S690 Cassette holder (not installed)
S697 Automatic Telephone Antenna
Original folder with a set of factory documentation

The list will be updated ;)

This was her last appearance:











To be continued...

[The_Glory]

Just a collection of some photos from the life of my E30 - club meetings, festivals, competitions, trips:

Fotostory

Photos of interior and under the hood





Further story in the blog.

[steve_k]

looks really good,

as for the colour? well that clearly is "interesting" with the purple tint to it.

[The_Glory]

looks really good,

as for the colour? well that clearly is "interesting" with the purple tint to it.

Yes, almost everyone who saw this car for the first time said - "What an interesting color!" So this name stuck to her! )

[The_Glory]

Well, actually, now about the same new page, or even rather a new chapter, in the life of my E30.
The last winter operation in the winter of 2018.


Delivery of the Christmas tree by road snow-salt mixture.


Yes, having reached the 10-year anniversary of our life together , after Christmas, I somehow decided that it was time to change something!





The appearance after several spray painting thresholds and arches, in this color, after every winter became worse and worse...


Therefore, one day he came home


Moved to a higher car ;)


I took a picture of the thirtieth anniversary ;)



Drove her into the garage



And I took it apart a little for parts ...



...that's how it is...

[The_Glory]

Body repair_01. The scale of the tragedy

So, we are starting in the BZ a fascinating, and, like, long series "Body Repair" I hope that it will someday end, with a "happy end"! )))

About 7-8 years ago I already did a "local" body repair on the bottom, then a couple of years ago I welded the front beam mounts, but this time everything will be more global.

Let's start with the scale of the tragedy! )
As I wrote in the previous entry, for this the car was dismantled to the state of "bare body on wheels", since it will still have to be transported to the welder. Both beams with hodovka will be removed on the spot.
The scale of the tragedy lying on the surface has long been visible to the naked eye, so I started collecting bodywork since autumn - I bought new thresholds and repair inserts for the Klokerholm rear arches (by the way, the quality of the arches is so-so), a front apron (immediately under air conditioning), four doors (VP), hood, trunk lid, hatch cover, and tank hatch.







Those. all hinged elements of the body. Except the wings. Six months of searching for intact, live original used wings were unsuccessful .... At best, they sell the same ones as mine - alive on top and rotten below .... Buying a new china / taiwan, judging by the reviews, does not make sense - the geometry of the curve, back-to-back gaps and a bunch of crap during installation. I watched the new original .... but did not like their price))). Therefore, while I bought the repair inserts of the lower part on my fenders, let's see how it turns out ... Or maybe there will still be wings while everything is cooking .... At the same time I bought a shield for the tank ventilation hoses, mine rotted into dust.



Next, we move on to the most interesting - after disassembly, we reveal the hidden scale of the tragedy! )
Looking ahead, I’ll say right away that nothing so completely unexpected and very terrible was found, everything was predictable and expected;)
From the moment I bought the car, I knew that it used to be well attached in the front left, and there was also a blow to the rear left fender. Therefore, it is quite logical that the biggest "horrors of our town" turned out to be in these places!
A hole in the side member at the junction with the engine shield, the shield itself is bent, with a crack near the stove entrance, and solid rot under the fuse box - I didn’t like that “patch” from the very beginning, but the prospect of pulling out all the wiring to get to it, scared the hell out of me! ))) Now I got it! Better late than never)) I also found a welding joint on the arch in front of the glass - after the accident, the front part of the wheel arch and the upper spar (gun) were welded. The main spars are native.





A crack appeared again at the junction of the "gun", which had already been welded - apparently the consequences of a rigid suspension and our roads ...



Under the windshield seal there are small holes under both wipers, but the lower corners are completely intact, oddly enough! By the way, I don’t know, if I weld a whole piece near the VIN under the janitor, so that the cops wouldn’t have any questions later ...
We will treat all these biggest body shoals radically, with the help of such a piece of a donor:



The right side is much better preserved - all load-bearing elements are alive. Only near the bottom bracket of the washer reservoir there is a slight corrosion. Judging by the red color, the battery pad has already been digested before, and not bad at all. By the way, I have already knocked out the factory body plugs for the air conditioner - on the platform behind the headlight for the dehumidifier and under the hood loop for the hoses - now anyone will have to close them with something! Stimulus! ;))
It is not yet clear with the “TV”, we will decide with the welder - if it is normal in geometry (which I doubt a little), then we will weld the radiator mounts with an expansion tank (EP) on this one or change it entirely to VP.



Everything seems to be quite normal in the tunnel, except for the welded backstage fasteners - we will fix it)



Let's go to the salon.
Here, back in the last body repair, on the advice of a good welder of the "old school"), instead of gluing a new vibration isolation, I smeared the bottom with bituminous anticorrosive ....



In principle, it’s not bad at all ... but now all the wiring is in it and everything, and in general ... not aesthetically pleasing)) Therefore, I decided to tear it all off, along with the remnants of the factory vibration isolation. It was not easy, but not in vain! And this is what turned out to be under, quite to itself, a normal-looking factory vibration isolation:
hole next to the spar



rear is ok



Now we return to the most "terrible" place, but already from the salon.



Accordingly, there are holes at the junction of the engine shield with the spar and a hole near the gas pedal, suspiciously smeared with rust sealant opposite the "patch" near the glass. Well, old patches. As I wrote above - we will change all this in a whole piece.

Here I haven’t mastered it yet ... oh well, then I smeared it! as for yourself! ))) But there like the identity should be the norm.



With suspicion I look at the vibra under the seat .... can we tear it off ...? There is a little rust around the belt fasteners and one hole near the wiring hole on the left ...



The rear shelf ... pain .... Here barbarian music lovers, like, cut holes under the "ovals" with an ax.





When I changed the music, I, as best I could, leveled the edges and covered them with at least soil ... but something needs to be done with this .... I am looking for the rear shelf of the first years of production (until 85), without traces of music lovers. You need a shelf or parts of it for speakers, and for belts with fastening on the rear roof rack. For belts, the photo shows rectangular holes along the edges of the shelf.
Not everything is fine with the roof either ... I have long been worried about rust at the junction of the "trough" of the hatch and the roof ... and here it is visible from the inside:



Even more disturbing is the surface rust inside this trough - apparently the consequences of driving with an open hatch in wet weather ... I don’t know how to get there .... we will decide with a welder on the spot.



Continued on the back and thresholds in the next post...

To be continued.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_02. The scale of the tragedy

Let's continue the clarification of the scale of the tragedy, begun in the previous entry.

On the rear window with a lower corner on the left side, the situation is worse than on the windshield, but also not critical. By the way, both glasses were planted on some kind of black type of rubber tape - it is still soft, you can see it in the photo. On top of which there is still a protective film or adhesive tape - I wonder if this is how it should be from the factory or has it already been glued by yourself? But it didn't go anywhere.
You can also see the native color - PLATANENGRUEN METALLIC (188)



The photo shows cracks in the corner of the trunk and under the roof rack. Here we again recall that there was once a blow to this wing, and there was a lot of putty on it - it cracked. I found this out when I drilled a hole for the antenna. Even earlier, the trunk loop immediately fell off, then I also noticed putty at the junction. In general, the next largest "horror of our town" is the junction of the rear arch and the trunk floor. There has been suspicious rust for a long time .... and now, after light picking with a screwdriver, we get this thing:



I haven’t decided what to do with it yet, I’ll talk with a welder - either patch it or change the arch ... There is also a small hole on the same side member from below.
On the right side, the situation is much better, although there is also a little rust ... and outside the shield of the tank ventilation hoses has rotted to dust ... an autopsy will show ...



Both niches of the wings, after being cleared of mastic, look quite intact.





They have a lot of white sealant at the joints, which is still very soft and plastic - I also don’t understand if it’s factory or has already been smeared ....?
I also covered the spare wheel niche with a fool for some reason with bituminous mastic))) Ripped off. Old patches we can ennoble, and so everything is fine.



Left arch and threshold







The right arch and threshold are slightly worse











The thresholds have already been welded a little, so it’s not so scary from the outside - but since this is the case, we will change them entirely along with the arches.
With the rear panel, the question is also ajar for the time being - it was already cooked on the left under the bumper and again there is rust



In addition, for some reason, holes were welded in it for the number plate lights. We'll see if we can change to a new one ...
Well, the trunk lid - "classic" rust under the spoiler ...



On the right, so generally through, apparently the drain was clogged ...



Because of this, it will have to be changed. But the new cover has no holes for the spoiler at all .... and it’s a pity to drill it and I want to leave my Breyton, just remove the stop from it ...
I didn’t take a picture of the hood, it’s just straightened and there is cracked putty on it, so it will change. The tank hatch is also with a large "bug" for replacement. I also wanted to change the manhole cover because of the "bug", but the best of those that I managed to find, in fact, turned out to be worse than mine, so I'll leave mine ...

Well, actually, for iron, like everything that we managed to find on our own. So far, no "surprises" - everything was predictable and not fatal. This is how I imagined the "scale of the tragedy" ...;)
But after the "opening" at the welder, I think it can still get out even ...

Lastly, a couple of pictures of the "creative mess" in the garage - E30 in the form of a heap))





It's good that the garage is large, but there is still not enough space ... I don't know where and when I will put it all down and how I will look for everything later when assembling ....



P.S.
It’s too bad that there is no pit - I got sick of crawling along the rubble on my backs around the car and under it .... Before assembly, you need to make a pit and a normal floor ...

[The_Glory]

Body repair_03. Preparation, assembly

While I was waiting for my turn to the welder, I decided not to waste time and still clean all the bitumen (which I myself foolishly smeared 7-8 years ago) from the cabin, trunk and other places, so that I could paint it all normally later. In the previous post you can see the intermediate result. Further, after a spatula, a chisel and a hammer, a brush went into action on a drill, then a lot of diesel fuel, a lot of rags, a lot of patience and time! )) As a result, the bottom began to look quite acceptable ...









Let me remind you how it was before



All in all, it wasn't easy! ) I don’t know, maybe this anticorrosive agent helped to save the bottom, but I won’t smear it anymore)) Only vibration, as in the factory. By the way, no one knows by what logic the Germans glued it on the bottom? Why was the vibration on the left rear panel glued to the front of the stamping, and on the right rear panel - in the back of this stamping (the photo shows lighter spots). Why not the entire stamping on both sides? The front is not symmetrical at all - the driver's side is larger in area. And so on all the E30s, the bottom of which I saw ....
By the way, I also decided to remove the factory vibration isolation from the rear seat. And for good reason - there are holes near the wiring holes.



Further, the same long and tedious procedure in the trunk.











There, now, too, the view is more aesthetic) Old patches will either be changed or cultivated somehow ...
In general, where I could, I tore off this bitumen, and where it remained, we will sand it.

Then I leveled, as best I could, barbarously cut holes for the speakers. Shelf sample 84 years old, without the intervention of music lovers could not be found, so we will cook our own.





It has become a little more accurate ... after welding it should be good.

Well, actually, I got ready to leave for the cook - I hung back the "new" body elements - four doors, a hood, an apron, a tank hatch, a sunroof. He left his wings, we will put repair inserts on the bottom. The trunk is still our own, but there is also a "new" one - we will decide on the spot which one we will install.
Threw grilles and bumpers.





"Air-conditioning" apron ;) Although the seller assured of its perfect evenness, but in fact, on the left it is not slightly curved .... but not critical - it will even out.



I folded all the boxes and parts so that nothing was lost for many years before assembly))) There was a place in the garage again. You can dig a hole. )



Rolled out into the street for the first time in six months, so that it would be ventilated))







I loaded the rest of the bodywork into the cabin, and we are waiting for a tow truck. Tomorrow we go to the welder!

[The_Glory]

Body repair_04. Let's go for welding

The next evening, finally, having waited for the tow truck, which was more than an hour late, we loaded up and moved out to the welder.







The neighbors looked at this process with surprise, and one even came up to clarify - is this the same one, my car ....? After my affirmative answer, he expressed sincere regret - "very sorry ((... she was so beautiful ... and the color was so interesting ..." Apparently, he thought that I had taken it apart and was taking it to ferrous metal After my promise that after painting it will become even better, he nodded approvingly and said: "Ah, well then!" )) Unexpectedly, but it's nice that my "thirty" is not indifferent to the neighbors either)) In some way, even the local "attraction" was)))
Having received the neighbor's "blessing" , we move forward.
As they say - "He said" Let's go! "And waved his hand!" (With)



We drove, by the way, not so very slowly - I thought tow trucks drive slower and more accurately. By the way, my E30 was driving on a tow truck for the first time.
Right row



Left row



middle row



And this is at a speed of 100+



And on empty straight lines and a little more)



Either he was making up for his lateness, or he was just a "racer")) But anyway, we arrived when it started to get dark, so I didn't take pictures on the spot, and so far nothing interesting. We talked with the welder, discussed further plans, goals and prospects, estimated the scope of work, and returned home.
I hope that the "ice has broken" and further news will be more interesting;)

[Mitchen]

Wow you're a brave man! Ratings to you!

But at the beginning how did it have two cam covers?

[The_Glory]

Thank you )

And there is M50 under M20!
joke)

This is just a decorative plastic cover from the M50 that covers the exhaust manifolds.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_05. BBS body kit repair, preparation

Work on the body began only recently, so there is no news yet. We started with the most problematic place - the engine shield and the driver's floor. Maybe one of these days I will go and see how it is and what happened.
While there is still time, I decided to deal with the body kit, since it will need to be installed and adjusted before painting. From the current set, I only have the rear apron, which needs to be glued. The front apron will be the same, but more correct - precisely under M20V25 with an oil radiator, with slots for blowing it. But the ego also needs to be glued a little. Well, finally the rapids with foliage, which I have been looking for for so long, have finally arrived! ) But there is a small jamb there that needs to be eliminated.
To begin with, I thoroughly washed/cleaned all the parts. Here is all my BBS treasure))











And also BBS on the "nightstand")


I'll also bring it to mind and paint it....and we'll see there....maybe I'll change it to suit my mood ;)
The steering wheel also needs to be brought to mind, but more on that later.
I'll say right away - I'm not going to sell anything from this! )

The difference between the front aprons - the upper one is new with additional slots for blowing the oil radiator:



It also has slots on the bottom, apparently for factory protection of the engine:



Well, the new one shows a strange factory solution for access to the towing eye - a slot that is closed with a "Velcro" cover. I already wrote about this before.
On the old one, I made a plug for the towing loop. But this "collective farm" looks no worse than the factory "collective farm with Velcro"))) Therefore, I don't know what to do - rearrange the plug, or make a cover with Velcro, as it was in the original?
From the inside, the new apron does not look perfect, but it is much better than the old one, which was assembled from pieces.



Well, now, actually about the upcoming repair. As you know, including from my own experience, it is not easy to repair a BBS body kit. It is made of durable and flexible polyurethane, but if it does manage to break, then it will not work simply by gluing or soldering it - it is very poorly glued and does not solder at all, but simply burns out. Therefore, in the past, after several unsuccessful attempts to glue it with various "super mega glues", I sent the body kit for repair to a special office, where they glued it to me with something similar to body polyurethane sealant. They did not seal it cheaply, but it was quite high-quality. But all the same, "thanks" to my clearance, after several rather hard contacts with the curbs, cracks appeared, and then the joints split completely, despite the internal riveted "exoskeleton" made of metal! )) I didn't want to repeat it again, so I started looking for other, more reliable, repair methods. Googled the repair of polyurethane body kits with the help of a 2-component polyurethane compound. Inspired by my colleague's experience and convinced that it works, I decided to follow the same path! I bought everything necessary for the repair - anti-silicone, primer for plastic, mesh, adhesive compound, sandpaper, putty and, just in case, body sealant:



The main component is a polyurethane 2-component adhesive composition Terason 9225sf produced by the firm Henkel.



I was looking for Terason 9225, but only Terason 9225sf was available - super fast, i.e. with greater speed of grasping. By the way, it is even a little cheaper, but you will have to work with it faster. ) It is not cheap for such a volume - about $18 for 50 ml. In the photo, I put a pen for comparison - the tube is not very big... I hope it will be enough for me...



By the way, a special pistol is needed for it, but the seller said that for one-time use, it is possible to do without it, since its price is also not pleasing. I will even invent... )
In the set, a tube, a nozzle for it, and a large detailed instruction with pictures in 12 languages, except Ukrainian)





In principle, everything is clear and nothing complicated, especially since there is also a video on the Internet. But about the process and the result in the next entry.

P.S.
Finally, I will have a rear number plate light, which was brewed for some reason even before me)
New Hella lamps:



To be continued.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_06. The most difficult part of the bodywork is done.

And the ice has broken! )
Finally, the process has begun! ) Work began from the most difficult and problematic place - the platform under the fuse box and the left side member. From the donor piece was cut live area with support rack and part of the spar and welded instead of my rotten. Holes were drilled in my support, so at the same time they also changed it. An insert under the beam was already welded into the left spar, so at the same time it was replaced with a whole donor spar.



The motor shield was leveled and a crack welded in it - it's easier than changing it. The floor from the cabin was re-welded in one piece, instead of the old patches.
After checking the geometry, it turned out that the left side did not hold out after an accident by almost 1 cm! I always disliked her, and as it turned out, for good reason)
The niche of the body pillar was jammed, which is between the wheel and the body hinges. I hit the front part relatively not hard, but even before me, according to the previous owner, it was hit hard on the left side - that's when the wheel hushed up this niche and pulled the body pillar. Now it’s clear why the gap along the frame of the driver’s door was different, and I only sinned on the hinges ....
In general, everything was pulled out to the factory dimensions, now the gaps on the door are even.



But the loops still need to be changed, but I can not find them. If suddenly someone has left rear (or live front) hinges that are not collapsible until the age of 85, I’ll buy it.
On the supports, too, everything is in factory sizes, by the way, just in case, they put my home-made spacer - it became almost perfect on the new support)



It will be necessary to buy later for Feng Shui, some branded old school one;)
The front frame was also pulled out, but there were dents on it, well, you need to weld brackets for the radiator from the restyling on it, so I will change it completely to the restyled one, along with the hood hinge mechanism - the backlash is wild there ...



They cut off the left threshold - the inner threshold, in principle, is alive - thanks to good processing. We welded only the places of the jacks. Well, a couple more patches on the bottom. On this, at the moment, that's all for now ... The welder has a vacation for two weeks, so the "commercial break" is until August))

I immediately talked about painting - it’s even complicated there .... the painter disappeared somewhere, when it’s not clear, or it will be different ... if it is ... it’s not known how he paints .... and the price is mine I didn’t like it very much, as for such a paint job .... Therefore, I previously “signed up” for painting with my painter, who painted it back in 2000, and then painted the front after my accident and then painted the BBS body kit for me. I am more than satisfied with the quality - for an 18 year old paintwork still looks quite normal. For many, a couple of years after painting, it looks worse ...
One of these days, maybe I’ll go to him to look at colors ... but they, damn it, are all different! Which one to choose .... difficult ...)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_07. Thresholds and front frame. [/ B]

The welder's vacation is over - since the beginning of August, work, although slower, but still continues ...
Both thresholds were welded, jacks were made, drainage drains of the thresholds were restored, the old inserts in the front corners were redone, more accurate, repeating the original shape of the floor.



The seams are not completely cleaned yet.





It’s a real problem with the hinges of the driver’s door - they don’t exist anywhere at all .... (If someone in Ukraine has one, write, I’ll buy it very much! These are, only without backlashes (although this, it seems, is unlikely)



Apparently, you still have to sharpen new bushings, and restore your own ...

As I wrote in the previous entry, the front part has already been brought to the factory dimensions, but on my frame since the last accident there were traces of straightening, and now more fresh ones have been added. It’s not that they were very conspicuous, or it’s very crooked there, but after painting, it will spoil the view ... You can, of course, putty, or score ... but I’ll know that they are there !. ..)) Therefore, in order not to get upset every time I open the hood, I decided to change the frame to a whole one. Moreover, in any case, on mine it was necessary to add lower brackets for a restyled radiator, so that it would stand normally, without a collective farm from improvised means)) But they already exist on the new frame. I don’t want to install the “correct” radiator before restyling, mine will remain, with a built-in expansion tank - not according to Feng Shui, but it looks neater. I don’t like the expansion tank before the restyling at all, but there is nowhere to put the restyling, I have an automatic oil filling tank there.
Therefore, I bought a fresher frame from the touring, plastic inserts into it under the radiator, and at the same time the front hood loop with whole bushings, since on mine they were worn out into the trash, and the hood staggered wildly to the sides when open.





There was a sticker on the frame that I had never seen before:



Such a German warning, in which the Germans sternly warn that if you change at least one nut in the car for a non-original one, then they cannot vouch for themselves !!! )))



I also brought fenders, all sorts of shields there, so that they could weld the missing mounting studs under the plastic nuts everywhere. I also brought the BBS lining, so that the gaps would be set already taking into account its installation.
Well, that's all for now.

P.S.
I also went to the painter, looked at samples, paints ... I don’t know what to choose! ....)))

[The_Glory]

In the meantime, I’m dealing with other issues - I painted the ceiling, tried to glue the BBS, dismantled the motor in order to paint the collector in a more decent color, otherwise some people laughed at it from the first day))))

About the ceiling:

S775A Anthracite headlining

All E30 models in the "M-Technic" retrofit package were equipped with a black headlining - ANTHRAZIT.
I have long wanted such a ceiling for myself, but the prospect of removing the windshield and rear window to install it stopped me and I put it off for later ... Now the glass has been removed and I remembered the black ceiling! ) But looking for it on ebay, I went nuts from the current prices for it !! In addition, for a 4-door sedan with a sunroof - this is generally a super rarity - I've seen it on sale twice all the time - I had to take it for $ 100 then
In addition, judging by the photo, and the words of my friend, who put himself such a ceiling, this ceiling in the original was not made of another, completely black fabric, but simply painted black on the front side.
Photo from ebay outside - black:



He is white on the inside.



So I decided to paint my ceiling black with suede paint. Farm, you say? Well, to some extent, you will be right! But if there is no difference in fabric, cut, or fasteners, but only in color, then why pay more? ? ) What's the difference - they dyed the fabric 30 years ago, then sewed it and installed it, or installed it, drove it for 30 years, and then dyed it? )) In the second case, the view will be even fresher) Therefore, I consider such a "collective farm" acceptable! )) Moreover, I have already seen how people painted with ordinary spray paint and skin paint - it looked good.
In general, my ceiling was, anyway, not in the best condition - dirt and stains, it seems, from the glue with which it was last glued during assembly. By the way, what kind of glue should be used to glue it so that there are no stains?



Therefore, I decided to wash it well - first with a cleaning paste, then with another powder with a brush, on both sides. Much better, but not perfect.



I bought 3 large cans of black suede paint and painted in two coats. Enough was enough.



But, damn it, those same glue stains still showed up on black !!



I bought another spray and painted it in the third layer - now it seems to be normal, but we'll see ...

While it's still warm, I gave the interior and trunk carpet for dry cleaning - it became much better.





You will also need to clean the side panels of the trunk.

[The_Glory]

Our VII Festival has long passed, I, accordingly, was without the E30, so I didn’t write anything on my blog, since there is nothing to brag about)).



But the other day our photographer posted a video that I want to share;)




Well, I found a couple of photos with me - I stood all day with a flag, I really didn’t see anything - as usual))





Although, I looked into some cars)



Some seller of buns with "swear words" walked along the highway all the time and yelled))



There were a lot of cars, I counted about 100.



... everyone drove and drove ...)





There was even one! 320is



And such)





In our traditional competition for the best car of the Festival, the beautiful blue cabriolet of Andrey TATARIN won:



Three winners in the sprint:
1st place - Vlad Mad_Max, (Odessa) and his combat thirty



2nd place - Polezhaka, (Kyiv) on a cool drift car



3rd place - Ruslan Rulchik, (Kyiv) and his strange car



It was awesome, I hope everyone enjoyed it!
See you next year .... I hope too ...

P.S.
Another video from the previous festival in 2017:

[The_Glory]

Body repair_08. Repair body kit BBS, attempt number 1 (unsuccessful) [/ B]

After preparation, I still started the process itself.
As the "book" writes, he sawed through the cracks so that the sealant would completely fill them.





I riveted metal linings to the inner edges - for greater reliability, since they will not be visible anyway.
And on the front front part, I screwed a temporary overlay onto the crack, for rigidity at the time of work.



For this sealant, you need a special small gun, which I could not find from anyone to take to use. And to buy it new for 60+ bucks for a one-time job, I didn’t want to...))
Therefore, I made myself such an "adapter" for a conventional sealant gun. I drilled a piece of wood and inserted two long bolts into it.



I inserted these bolts into a tube and tried to shove it all together into a regular gun - it didn’t work out - it fell out)) But I was already determined,)) so I decided to manually squeeze out the sealant with this crap. And almost immediately something went wrong! ) The effort had to be applied more than I expected, so I pressed so normally! )) The bolts turned out to be not very even, and first in one tube, and then in another, the piston was warped, and instead of evenly mixing the two components in the spout, they climbed from all sides, each by itself! ))))
In general, I mixed what came out of all the holes also by hand - like a putty with a hardener)) I threw out most of it, because it hardens pretty quickly. And in the end, I sealed only the two smallest cracks, which I thought to glue if there was a sealant, but it turned out the other way around! )) I didn’t apply it to the front parts in this form ...
Outside:





From the inside:





But even despite such a "technology" of gluing,)) the apron stuck together perfectly! I tried to bend and twist it in these places - it holds!
The sealant is good - you need to take more! ))) But there is still a problem with the gun, and greed, as before, does not allow me to buy it ....))) can anyone have it? ;)



And then the second time to make an "adapter" for some reason is not a hunt already ....)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_09. Rear arches.

Instead of an epigraph - a quote from the "commandments of the thirty":
2. You think your body is still alive... until you start repairing the rear arches! (c)

I recently visited my thirty. The work is very slow, but still going.
Made front platforms and arches on both sides



We welded the edge of the seal near the wipers - I hope there will be no problems with welding near the VIN ...



Such a surprise was found in the left corner, although outwardly everything looked normal - they cut it out



The right wing on the bottom is already ready, the left one is just tacked on.



New front frame installed.



The right tow hook has been rebuilt.



There are gaps on the front and doors - everything seems to be smooth, but we will still look at everything assembled.
On the bottom, the old places of welding were brought into a more decent form and new holes were welded over the tank.



Restored left speaker cutout



Right still in progress



Now let's move on to the rear inner arches! ))
The left one, on which there was a large hole at the junction with the trunk floor, has been made.





Just a little clean up



But the right one, which looked quite normal, turned out to be just trash! Under the layers of anticorrosive, old welding was discovered and such a surprise



Complete Armageddon!



Now it is not surprising that the hose shield rotted into dust and it is clear why the right wheel was littered a little more than the left ...
Cut it all to hell



And restored the spar over the spring plate





The spare wheel niche also looks quite sad, so we decided to amputate it.



On the phone, for some reason, the welder called the rotten upper spring plate a support, and said that she had died .... I was very surprised, since the support looked alive. But in my understanding, the support is where the amortization is screwed. As a result of such a "misunderstanding" I decided not to cut out the support, but to buy the entire inner arch, but in the end I bought the entire rear wing in general. ))





But, for the campaign, only a spring plate is useful from it ...
And a spare bucket.
We agreed that by my next visit, everything that had been started would be completed. I'll be back soon to see...

[The_Glory]

2019 Club Calendar

And again, the traditional record of the club calendar)
This year we almost forgot about it, but at the request of caring teammates, we decided not to break the tradition! )) And they did it in a short time, and even managed to do it before the New Year. By the way, thanks to all the participants for the efficiency and organization.
Well, Happy New Year everyone! )



7 cars from the TOP12 of our OLD SCHOOL E30 contest and the remaining 5 cars by general vote got into the calendar.



My car also got into it, which is good news, although I doubted it a little)





And they gave me two gifts - beautiful and useful)



Useful plastics.



Beautiful monochrome picture on the board.



Thanks to Lesha and Yura.

P.S.
The calendar is no longer available. Who did not have time - he was late! )

P.P.S.
Here is such a "still life" of pieces of iron that has been in the garage for more than a month - some need to be sanded and painted, some for electroplating, some just wash / clean / sort out ... but until the hands reach even ....



On occasion, I bought another set of door trims in color 0211 ANTHRAZIT, aka houndstooth black.



The idea of ​​​​a salon in this color does not leave me) I already wrote about such a fabric on my blog and I also bought the back of the rear seat just in case;) I had such door trims, but I bought these because in my front "music lovers" embedded speakers inside pockets - you can't seal a hole)) And I also really want a coin box in my pocket, but because of this speaker, it doesn't fit there. Now you can put it on! )





The door trim needs to be washed / cleaned, of course, but in general, the condition is good, except for one hole from the self-tapping screw ... but it is almost invisible)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_10. Interim result.

Finally completed part of the welding work described in the previous post. From the front, it looked like a car again. )



I already miss this pretty muzzle! )









Under the hood, too, everything is already welded.













On the bottom, it remains only to weld the studs for the tubes - we almost forgot about them)





Returned the previous look to the places for the speakers



Welded rear right side member





By the way, the rear right "quarter" from the touring, which I bought, was never useful - only the upper spring plate was taken from it.

Welded the right pocket



All welds will then be sanded and checked.
In general, the process is underway, the first results are already there, it pleases). The ass remained)) - the rear external arches, the spare wheel niche, the bottom of the apron and the little things on the doors - I never found the hinges ....
Well, the biggest problem is the roof, in which the hatch trough at the junction with the roof has rotted .... The welder suggests changing the entire roof, as he says that patches and putty on the roof are 100% cracks after some time ... Even I don’t know what to do .... I’ll try to look for a roof under 4 doors without rust.
Welding continues...)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_11. The finish line is not far away.

It feels like somewhere soon there will be an exit to the finish line in welding! ) At least, the light at the end of the welding tunnel is already a little visible)) I'm already tired of this endless welding - I want to paint already! )))
In general, both rear arches are welded, but so far there are photos only on the right side.







Holes formed under the hatch of the tank



The repair insert of the arch, unfortunately, does not reach there, therefore, in order not to spoil the “quarter” from the touring with ideal arches that was not useful (by the way, it is for sale), I had to buy another piece of the wing around the hatch. Now it’s already clear that it was easier to change the entire wing, but already “we have what we have” (c)



In the process, it turned out that the back panel on the bottom was not slightly rotten, since it had been welded / patched there several times already, and not very well. The edge of the seal in some places also rotted to dust, the holes for the backlight of the number were welded up before me, and they had to be returned. Therefore, in order not to follow the same rake as with the right rear arch, I decided to buy a whole new rear panel.



On the advice of a familiar seller, I ordered Polcar - like Poland, but made in Taiwan)





Net weight indicated on the box is 5kg.



I heard many times that China/Taiwan is made from thinner metal, almost from foil, so I decided to check the weight and compare it with the weight of the original panel.



....and..... still 5kg!



We go to the ETK and look at the original back panel for pre-restyling (41 34 1 924 868):
http://2009.bmw-autocats.ru/parts/E30/4 ... tail_trim/

Its weight indicated in the ETK is 4.6 kg
That's it! ) From which we can conclude that the back panel of Polcar is made of normal metal, not foil, and even thicker than in the original )
In appearance, the quality of the panel is very decent - the planes are even, the bends seem to be normal, all the holes are in place ...





But we'll see how it turns out...

For welding, small things were still made on the doors, the missing studs were welded on the bottom and in the arches.
After replacing the rear panel, only the roof with a sunroof will remain ... This will already be the long-awaited finish line! ) But as they say - "the last fight - he is the most difficult one!" (c) As the result of the search showed, there are no E30 roofs with a sunroof without rust ((... so I don’t know what to do - take a roof with minimal rust, or try to do something with my own ... I don’t want to refuse the sunroof - I really like him)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_12. Roof - an autopsy showed ... [/ B]

Today I visited my thirty, took the back panel to the welder, and saw, so to speak, the results of opening the roof .... sadness, sadness ... ((
Now in order.
The rear panel began to be cleaned - there were already a bunch of patches one on top of the other, the edging for the trunk seal was rotten, the holes for backlighting the number plate were welded before me.



Therefore, it was decided to change it entirely to a new one - I wrote about this in a previous entry.

Both rear arches are already welded.
Left arch:





Right arch and hatch:





Also welded a hole in the trunk lid.



As it turned out, this is easier and better than changing the lid to the one I bought - since there, too, it was necessary to restore a similar corner, only on the other side. There will be a cover in reserve, or I will sell it - I have not decided yet.
Shelves are welded under the rear door vents, and on the front right, under a tiny bug, there was such a normal hole!



And I thought that this door was generally ideal ... I am becoming more and more convinced that the ideal bodywork for the E30 at car dismantling does not exist anymore ...
Welded a whole and beautiful spare wheel niche.





Still in the factory, perfectly preserved, sealant.



What can not be said about the bottom, over the tank still needs to be welded.



The rest is already cooked, including pipe pins, etc.



General view of the forthcoming front of work on cleaning the bottom from bitumen and other mastics.



Today we went with a friend and a repair colleague) We treated his car with sealant, just as it was from the factory - I liked it .... I would like to do the same ....



But I don’t know how to remove all that bitumen ... we’ll see.

And now about the main problem - the roof. They opened those places where there were already large bubbles on the paint - and the autopsy showed that there was a complete armageddon!





The right joint of the trough of the hatch and the roof:







Left-hand side:





In general, with a roof complete fucked up! At least change the trough ... or maybe together with the roof ... But it's not realistic to find a roof with a sunroof without rust on the E30. Vicious circle. At least give up the hatch ...

[The_Glory]

Multiple start interruption (immobilizer) [/ B]

Welding is welding, and no one has canceled the search for new options! ))

For a long time I noticed this thing in the ETK, but its name was somehow incomprehensible, and it seemed to me that it was something very complicated, and connected with the motor ...
http://2009.bmw-autocats.ru/parts/E30/4 ... erruption/

Therefore, I always put it off for "later" and did not particularly delve into this topic. But now the collection of options is nearing completion and, as they say, the time has come! )
I googled on foreign forums, since I have never seen this thing on our forums in the E30. There is not much information, but enough to deal with this option. By the way, in the list of factory original options for the E30, it sounds like this:
900 Anerkannte Wegfahrsicherung lt. AZT/TÜV (Approved immobilizer according to AZT / TÜV)

Digression: As far as I know, at that time insurance companies introduced a mandatory requirement for car insurance - the presence of an immobilizer that meets TÜV requirements. And the ridiculously primitive "immobilizer" of the regular BC of the CODE function could not meet these requirements, since it turned off when the terminal was removed from the battery)) Therefore, apparently, the Germans decided to do something about it! )

As you can see from the name and description, this is a regular immobilizer, which is the next "step" in the development of the factory anti-theft system with a magnetic key, which I have already installed and is working. In fact, these systems duplicate each other, partially complementing - the first is more of a security system, as it reacts to unauthorized entry into the cabin, and is deactivated from the outside with a magnetic key, and the second is more anti-theft, as it is deactivated already in the cabin, immediately before launch engine, a special key with a chip. We get two lines of defense! )) Although, one of them was usually set. By today's standards, of course, this protection is primitive, but my goal was not protection, but more - just to find a rare option! ))
This option was available for E30, Z1, E31, E32, E34, E36, but judging by EVA - only since 1994. Therefore, it is rare, and especially on the E30. It is still available to order a new one, but the price is not small. The key and lock can also be bought new separately, but I still do not understand how then it is "attached" to the ECU ...
You can also find a used one, but the truth is often without a key or with a cut off wiring. In the latter case, the meaning of the purchase tends to zero ... And that's why - since this is an anti-theft system, the Germans decided to stun a potential hijacker who decided to turn off this system, and made ALL 17 wires in its two "braids" of the same black color! )) From the factory, each wire had a plastic "tag" with the wire number, and the pinout of the numbers was indicated only in the EVA factory installation instructions, in which there was a strong recommendation - after installing and checking the operation of the system, remove all tags from all wires - " and ends in the water!" (c) Harsh!? )) That's the same! )
Therefore, finding a complete set, with intact wiring and preserved wire markings, is good luck! And she smiled at me! )) Who seeks - he will find! (c) Moreover, I found it quite quickly and nearby - with a long-time comrade in E30;) And even one and a half sets! )



The first was without a key and without a combination lock.



Obviously, either after a repeated and slightly "collective farm" installation, or the electrician was so severe that he immediately cut off the excess length of all the wires and twisted them into twists, simplifying the factory connection and inserting into the wiring as much as possible. )) This is not our method! (With) ))



A little later, in the bins, a friend also found a complete set, with a key and a lock, which Andrey himself once rented for himself, like from E32. Thank you for this fit! )




Therefore, everything is already neat here - all the connectors and pins are in place, the mating connectors from the body wiring are cut off with pieces of wires with color.





Moreover, by some miracle, on all 17 black wires, factory tags with numbers have been preserved, and some are also signed "by hand"!







There should be two keys in the set, but it's good that there is at least one, although its body is slightly damaged and a home-made "eye" is attached to it for hanging the key.



Removed the "collective farm" and laundered the key from the adhesive tape.



Hope it will work! The operation algorithm is simple - before starting the motor, you need to firmly lean the key against its combination lock - the "button" in the center of the key socket is pressed and thus the wiring interrupt system is deactivated. Several circuits are broken, including the fuel pump, but the electrical circuit could not be found - during installation I will figure out which circuits are broken.
An interesting point - on the wiring of the lock, one wire is copper, and the other two are made of white, harder metal - I wonder why ...



ECU block





Guarantee



In my bins I found the factory installation instructions for EVA, printed out the source code in German, translated into English, and inspired by the presence of tags on the wires, in the middle of the night, quickly, translated the pinout into Ukrainian! )) Everything turned out to be much easier than it could be!



The rest is a matter of time, and a matter of technique! )) After installation, I will make a report, maybe I will translate the instructions, although there is nothing particularly complicated in English either. Although, I don’t think that besides me, there will be many more who want to install an ancient alarm system, especially if there is already one ancient one! )
In the meantime, "Multiple start abort" will be waiting for the completion of welding / painting and its time to install!



P.S.
Another coin in the piggy bank "crow's feet"! )
E30 colleague FallenAngel88 donated these skins, for which I thank him.



The condition is so-so, but maybe the fabric will come in handy for the waist of the armrests... or maybe not... but let it be...;)
Well, now there is another complete set of pens and pockets for cards - we can also come in handy ...

[The_Glory]

Body repair_13. Rear and roof

Today I came to the welder, I open the door, - and there I am met by such a pretty ass! ))



The beauty! )



The back panel of the Polcar came out great, without any problems.



There was a lot of putty on the right wing near the lantern - the edging was removed and slightly straightened.



The arches have been welded for a long time.







Back is ready!

This stupid misunderstanding of the Bavarian engineers was corrected - they brought the water outlet out of the hatch to the outside, under the wing, and not inside the threshold, as it was at the factory.



Now the thresholds and front corners of the floors should live happily ever after))

Finally, the driver's door will close normally and will not sag - they made new hinge pins, fitted the hinges under them - zero backlash!



And I never found such loops in disassembly ...
We made brackets for the muffler, for the handbrake cables, welded a couple more mounting studs on the body, returned the factory fastening of the backstage support - it was "temporarily" welded when it broke during slalom about 6 years ago))

And now about the main thing - the roof!



In the previous post, I showed what Armageddon turned out to be! Although, I stubbornly resisted, but the welder convinced me to change the entire roof - cut it along the racks ... because if you weld, the putty on the roof can crack ... I didn’t want to do something “cut”, something was scary)) But still I started looking for a roof with a sunroof for a 4-door sedan ... but what to do !? ) I searched for showdowns, at flea markets, on forums, on acquaintances - I reviewed more than a dozen roofs - they are all the same as mine! .... well, a couple of pieces were a little better, but all rusty in the same places! I have already started looking at 2-doors to change the skin itself - but they are the same. The price of a new roof in $ 1000 I didn’t like something) In general, after spending a month and a half searching and viewing, I never found a whole roof with a sunroof on the E30! They are no longer there. Without a hatch - yes. But I need a hatch! Therefore, we once again discussed the problem with the welder and decided to do mine! Namely, to drill and remove the hatch trough, weld the holes in the roof neatly into the joint and separately restore the edges of the trough. Then the roof and trough were sanded and primed. Here's what happened.
The outside is not finished yet, but it should turn out with a minimum of putty. Or maybe tin...





The inside turned out just great! Now the trough is screwed for fitting on self-tapping screws.







Right restored side



The left side - if you look closely - you can see the restored piece - with all the bends, as it was in the factory.



Welded all the cracks on the uprights and corners of the openings. The corners of the roof pillars were reinforced from the inside with overlays.



Inside the niche is now just as beautiful, although it is not visible in the photo.



Then the trough will be removed again, the roof and the trough will be painted and then it will be installed on the sealant and welded. I think this result will be much better than "cut" with a slightly less rusty roof from the inside.

In general, the machine is almost ready for welding.

There are still a few little things that I discovered today - the gas pedal bracket, the holes for the wiring connector bracket, the studs in the rear right arch for the shield - I really don’t want to miss something from the little things, and then find it after painting ...) There are still a lot of suspicious shpakli on the rear left fender near the antenna - they'll look even there ...

Well, now I’m thinking about materials for protecting the body .... I don’t know if it makes sense to buy expensive sealants like 3M, Sika, Terroson or take it even easier .... they all have the same chemical composition ... and the prices are very various )
Haven't decided yet about sandblasting... sandblasting selectively, or all, or not sandblasting at all...? How and how to remove bitumen from the bottom, or not to remove ...?
Today I visited a painter and a welder - we talked, roughly outlined further plans, but it will still be necessary to make adjustments if I don’t go through the budget))

[The_Glory]

Judging by the activity in the comments, it is not very interesting ) Or the horror they saw made people speechless ))
Next, the painting and assembly records are not so scary - maybe it will be more interesting ;)

[steve_k]

Judging by the activity in the comments, it is not very interesting ) Or the horror they saw made people speechless ))
Next, the painting and assembly records are not so scary - maybe it will be more interesting ;)

it's not that it's boring (far from it) it's mainly that it does go a bit quiet in here from time to time, also folk could be on holiday while they've got the chance.

keep up the good work.

[fixedwheelnut]

Interested in how you have done the roof repair, did you fabricate new bits for the inner sunroof guides or source a decent second-hand one? my 318i has the roof bubble rot but until my 335i is back on the road it will stay as it is

[The_Glory]

Judging by the activity in the comments, it is not very interesting ) Or the horror they saw made people speechless ))
Next, the painting and assembly records are not so scary - maybe it will be more interesting ;)

it's not that it's boring (far from it) it's mainly that it does go a bit quiet in here from time to time, also folk could be on holiday while they've got the chance.

keep up the good work.

OK )

[The_Glory]

Interested in how you have done the roof repair, did you fabricate new bits for the inner sunroof guides or source a decent second-hand one? my 318i has the roof bubble rot but until my 335i is back on the road it will stay as it is

First, the welder drilled the hatch trough at the factory points. Cut out all the rusted metal on the roof and welded new inserts right into the roof joint. Also cut out all the rusted metal from the hatch trough. Then the welder made new inserts, repeating all the factory bends, and also welded them into the joint. Next, the removed trough was sandblasted, primed and painted. Also the roof from the inside. After that, the trough was installed in place on the sealant, and welded according to the factory points. Just like it was from the factory.
At the same time, the entire hatch mechanism with guides was, of course, completely removed beforehand.

[The_Glory]

VIII Festival of the Ukrainian Club BMW E30 June 1, 2019 Kyiv-Zazimye Photo, video

On June 1, the VIII Festival of the Ukrainian Club BMW E30 was held.
...for me it's already the second festival in a row without E30... (But that's okay - I hope I'll arrive at the next festival on thirty! ;)
In the meantime, he participated in the convoy on the X5, this time as the trailer, escort car and "obstruction")) Washed up in the evening, hung the flag early in the morning and drove to the place where the convoy was assembled - to the embankment.







By the way, a "surprise" was waiting for us there - it suddenly turned out that at that particular time there were some kind of fishermen's competitions, and the usually empty parking lot at that time turned out to be full of fishermen's cars! )) Although with difficulty but still accommodated.



There were 42 cars in the convoy.



Then there was another "surprise" - on the same day in Kyiv there was some kind of "cyclist's day" - and according to the law of meanness, as if their passage was planned along our route! That's fucked up! )) It’s not easy to drive around Kyiv in such a column along interchanges, so one lane was also closed for cyclists ... I had to close the passage to the extreme lane at the interchanges with the “X” a little bit against the rules so that the column would not break, but this did not help. Therefore, when we passed the "bicycle route" we had to stop and wait for everyone to catch up.



And here I am in the frame)



The exit from the Brovarsky highway turned out to be interesting - in previous years, when the convoy turned on the Zhytomyr highway, people stopped and calmly let the convoy through, they also greeted - and some kind of nervous drivers drive along the Brovarsky highway, they had to stupidly prop up and block especially "stung" ones, so that they did not fly into the convoy! But we got through safely.



This year there was a new format for us - without slalom and drag competitions, as the experience of recent years has shown - there are very few people who want to participate in them ... Therefore, this year the playground was a football field where you could just put cars, walk, watch, chat. There were about 70 cars in total.







The traditional competition for the best car - OLD SCHOOL E30 - remained in the program. But there were also very few people who wanted to participate in it, so I had to write it down almost on a voluntary-compulsory basis! ))) There were 15 participants.





The winner was determined by voting of the contestants themselves. They became a beautiful red convertible.



And at this time, nearby on the site was the roar of engines, the squeal of rubber and smoke!



This year there was another novelty - the opportunity for everyone to burn rubber on a separate site. As well as prepared "cramps" in the role of "drift taxi".



I'm with my E30 lovers;)



While they ride gyroboards, but the eldest has already begun to master the "X5"))



Then there were more competitions for the highest and lowest car. But the activity of the participants simply baffled - one car at a time! Campaign, no one needs these contests ... Here we are discussing this "awkward" moment next to two participants))



In fact, they won! ))) The highest is touring, the lowest is a pneumatic sedan.



Well, then there was the "unofficial part)) - barbecue, beer, conversations until midnight - it was fun and sincere!

P.S.
Thanks to Sasha frans1 for the photo.
http://forum.e30club.com.ua/index.php/topic,4847.0.html

And also thanks to the operators for the video.

View: https://youtu.be/_zr19GJmNnc


View: https://youtu.be/omMcXSAUIjQ


View: https://youtu.be/_TolBqFizGM

[The_Glory]

Body repair_14. Finally picked up from welding!

Less than a year later, the welding work was completed! )) They lasted 11 months .... what can I say ... I didn’t seem to be in a hurry anywhere, but not to such an extent )) To be honest, I counted on a shorter time ... and on a smaller budget)) Well, okay - the main thing is that the most difficult stage of body work is completed! ...I hope ))
I went to pick up with a painter who will paint, so that he would immediately evaluate the work and point out the shortcomings. And it was the right decision - it was not possible to pick it up the first time - the car was not fully assembled and there were comments on some gaps and planes. A few days later, the car was assembled, seals, locks, headlights, grilles, lights, bumpers were installed, all gaps were set - and we again came with a painter. The quality of the work suited him, according to the gaps everything was OK, and he gave the go-ahead! )
By the way, I went to pick up on an "X" with a trailer - this is 4 times cheaper than a tow truck.
Last summer I installed the original towbar, but it was not possible to test it. And the day before yesterday, finally, I tried for the first time to drive with a trailer. I rented a trailer, and here is such a "road train" turned out:



Loaded







Stop to check fastening



And here we are at home!
We are unloading, again, like almost a year ago when loading, under the curious and surprised looks of the neighbors))) Apparently, they no longer expected to see my "thirty" again! )



On the way, for some reason, the rear bumper on the right unscrewed.



Several not very confident attempts to maneuver with a trailer and "thirty" again in his garage!





The plan for further action is as follows:
1. Fitting and installing body kit, drilling mounting holes, and then disassembly.
2. Removing from the bottom of all those mastics that were smeared there before me and me)
3. Sandblast the bottom and optionally the body.
4. After sandblasting, immediately to the painter, and primer.
5. Processing seams and bottoms
6. Painting
7. Assembly.

Here's a simple plan ;)
I won’t guess at the expense of timing)) but I hope it will go faster than welding)

A little later I will post a photo of the result of welding work.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_15. The result of welding.

Welding lasted a long time, but a lot of work was done - they welded and changed absolutely everything that they found and that aroused suspicion - an even front frame was welded in, the hood torsion bars and hood were replaced, the front apron was slightly straightened and sanded, repair inserts were welded into the bottom of the front of the wings, the left support with a spar was leveled and replaced, the engine shield and the battery platform were welded on, the old holes were cleaned and new holes were welded in the bottom, a new gas pedal bracket was made, the hatch drainage was brought out, the "trough" of the hatch and the roof were restored, the corners of the roof pillars were reinforced with overlays , the holes for the speakers in the rear shelf were restored, the thresholds with amplifiers and jacks were replaced, the rear external arches were replaced and the internal ones were welded, the rear right side member was restored above the spring and its upper plate was replaced, the spare tire niche was replaced, niches in the rear fenders were welded, a new rear panel was installed , the trunk lid is welded on, the left rear fender is extended in the area of ​​​​the antenna, the whole is welded in the rear right fender th hatch of the tank, all the doors were replaced and welded on the little things, the hinges of the driver's door were restored, the brackets of the handbrake cables, the filler neck, the backstage support, the shield and the tank in the rear right arch, the ground terminals were restored, a lot of missing mounting studs were welded and maybe more I forgot some things...
The control body dimensions are brought to the factory ones, the main external elements are installed - headlights, grilles, nostrils, door seals and locks, taillights and bumpers, after which all gaps are set.
After all this, the car looks like this, in which I took it:









































Now I am installing a body kit, so that after painting nothing would have to be drilled. More on that in the next post.

[The_Glory]

Body repair_16. Installing body kit BBS.

It hasn't even been 6 years since I got to installing a full BBS kit... )

According to the work plan, I drilled holes for the body kit and installed it - there is one inconspicuous jamb on the right threshold, but in general - like norms. But I don’t know what to do with fasteners - in the original BBS is attached severely - with self-tapping screws to the body. That's how it was fixed for me. After painting, there was an idea to switch to plastic clips .... but even I doubted that it would stand evenly and rigidly on the clips .... In addition, holes for clips are needed at least 6mm - not everywhere on the body kit and body it is possible to drill such holes ... I’ll probably leave them on self-tapping screws .... But here again the question of body protection arises .... Maybe on stainless steel riveting nuts? ... but again, they won’t fit everywhere ... I don’t know what to do with this fastener ... But in general, the body kit has become good, and even better than it was before. Although, aprons still need to be glued, but this will be a separate entry.
For now, here it is:





















In the photo, the bumpers are not fixed on the sides, but when fitting, everything was attached and checked. This time I approached the installation of the body kit more carefully, and accordingly, the result was better than before;)
Although, the overlays hung generally purely symbolically on adhesive tape



The expansion along the arches is not small





Fasteners for self-tapping screws





Thresholds are attached through a special bar



The lower threshold mount is similar to the M-Technic mount - you will need to buy clamps - logically, they should fit ...

P.S.
We will go to sandblasting and painting on a rigid hitch - it's even easier and cheaper than a trailer. Got it from a friend ;)

[The_Glory]

Body repair_17. Bottom cleaning. (part 1)

After fitting and installing the body kit, everything was dismantled back and the car was put on the left side to clean the bottom from bitumen, since sandblasting to remove such a layer of it would hardly work, well, or it would be very difficult and not cheap, as I was told. .. Therefore, since the work does not require special qualifications)) I decided to do it myself - especially since I myself smeared it with a very thick layer 9 years ago! )))
This is what it looked like before work began.











In principle, the bitumen was removed not so hard, just in many places it is not very convenient. Therefore, it took a lot of time, since I worked for several hours in the evenings. And no matter what anyone says, but the effect of this anticorrosive is still there - under it the bottom has been preserved quite normally. At the same time, I decided to check the safety of the metal floor with the remaining factory anticorrosive - there is surface rust at the joints of the parts and in some places on the planes. Therefore, I decided to remove it completely already. This is much more difficult than bitumen .... The metal brushes for the drill and the disks for the grinder were immediately clogged with bitumen, it all melted, burned, smoked and stank, so I removed everything manually, with a wide screwdriver, a chisel and a spatula (the photo shows the tool and " results" in two plastic jars ) Then I washed off the rest with white spirit. As they say - perseverance and work - everyone will be fucked! )))
And tonight, the bottom looks like this.













Access above the rear beam and inside the front supports is very poor, so I haven’t cleaned it there yet. I will remove both beams. To do this, I took turntables from a friend, I will make adapters for them under the E30, and then I will already finish the left arches and a part above the rear beam.



In general, the state of the bottom is quite normal, but there were some "surprises" in welding.
1) holes on the seat mounting bracket - I don’t know how they weren’t noticed when the threshold was welded ...



2) a small hole in the floor in front



3) two holes in the rear arch near the tank filler neck bracket



4) instead of a stud, they welded an ear for the shield - but oh well, they forgot to weld the upper ear for the shield



5) muffler bracket welded upside down

... maybe something else will come out on the left side ....

All this will need to be corrected, and then the same for sandblasting.

P.S.
When I was picking up the car, on the way the rear bumper fang fell off on the right side. It turned out that the bracket and bumper there just rotted through and through. Therefore, on the occasion, not far away and for symbolic money, I bought both bumpers in reserve. The middle parts, of course, are rubbish, for that the sidewalls are all intact.