E30 318iS Fast Road/ Track car
Moderator: martauto
Hi folks
So been meaning to do this after a long time, im now offshore and bored out of my mind so what better time. This is my 318iS project that i always wanted to do, i use to have a white one years ago that got sold on in bits but i had to scratch that itch eventually.
Plan is, major strip down and deal with the rusty shell (current - 3yrs and counting), add in several bracing points ie. diff, install cage so i dont die, probably chop the roof and bond carbon one on as there are a couple of suspect bits, paint (white, red or something).
So there we go, as you can see progress on the shell has been laborious but its time consuming fixing all the tiny patches. To top it off i've taught myself to weld so that has been a voyage of discovery but worth it.
Loading all these pics could be problematic, carrier pigeon may be easier with this internet.
So been meaning to do this after a long time, im now offshore and bored out of my mind so what better time. This is my 318iS project that i always wanted to do, i use to have a white one years ago that got sold on in bits but i had to scratch that itch eventually.
Plan is, major strip down and deal with the rusty shell (current - 3yrs and counting), add in several bracing points ie. diff, install cage so i dont die, probably chop the roof and bond carbon one on as there are a couple of suspect bits, paint (white, red or something).
So there we go, as you can see progress on the shell has been laborious but its time consuming fixing all the tiny patches. To top it off i've taught myself to weld so that has been a voyage of discovery but worth it.
Loading all these pics could be problematic, carrier pigeon may be easier with this internet.
Last edited by ceige85 on Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
The joy of underseal, i chopped out the wheel well to get at it all.
Top tip, use an air hammer to strip off the initial layer just watch you dont catch seams etc otherwise you'll generate more holes to weld.
Top tip, use an air hammer to strip off the initial layer just watch you dont catch seams etc otherwise you'll generate more holes to weld.
Last edited by ceige85 on Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
I set about removing the rear bulkhead and all the internal seam sealer. There was tons of that stuff over old dodgy repairs. I would say this, fixing a standard car would have been far easier than having to remedy some of the repairs. If you're going to fix it, do it right first time.
The sills and jacking points were....interesting
The sills and jacking points were....interesting
A few random bits here
Passenger foot well which was more difficult than it looks, each side required the other structures to be built back up to weld to. Got choppy with the grinder on the rear boxes, these are still ongoing and one is totally gone to be reuilt Thought id try my hand at stitch welding the chassis, it went ok...i think for the most part
Passenger foot well which was more difficult than it looks, each side required the other structures to be built back up to weld to. Got choppy with the grinder on the rear boxes, these are still ongoing and one is totally gone to be reuilt Thought id try my hand at stitch welding the chassis, it went ok...i think for the most part
Like with any project your enthusiasm varies at times so i switched focus from the shell to other bits like the subframe. Plus i could do these bits at work in a slightly warmer workshop and not have to use a generator for the welder that drones in the background and drives you f*cking nuts
I bought one of those ebay plate kits for strength and camber/ toe then added bits myself just using some tubing and 1" box section. I've definitely found a new confidence in making bits yourself if you cant find anything on the web, its usually cheaper and more satisfying. Plus its what folk would have and still do i guess. I've since had these powdercoated black and polybushed the whole lot.
I bought one of those ebay plate kits for strength and camber/ toe then added bits myself just using some tubing and 1" box section. I've definitely found a new confidence in making bits yourself if you cant find anything on the web, its usually cheaper and more satisfying. Plus its what folk would have and still do i guess. I've since had these powdercoated black and polybushed the whole lot.
Now the floor and sill. This was a bugger. There were so many small holes i just chopped the whole lot out and got a panel from Valcas garage. Beware, these things look good but they aren't original so be prepared for hours of fiddling to get it to fit the way you'd like (for me about 8hrs total). However they do look the part once complete.
Strip off Fix wheel well areas and sill
Strip off Fix wheel well areas and sill
Much of this was a learning process as to how the car was actually put together, stuff i'd always thought about and hence wanted a project. So chopped the sills to bits (it got much worse than this) to see what was going on.
This part was pretty dead and housing a load of rust. It was either fix from the inside or take the brace off totally. I figured its not important as i wont have seatbelts here anyway. So i decided to make a brace for the diff while i was there. I have since drilled holes to fit bolts too.
That's one more thing, maybe its common knowledge among fabricators but finding anything technical on those bolted tube sections like what you see on cages and these diff mounts it impossible. Anyone got any links to anything???????
Cant remember why i mounted it here initially, maybe just to test fit??
That's one more thing, maybe its common knowledge among fabricators but finding anything technical on those bolted tube sections like what you see on cages and these diff mounts it impossible. Anyone got any links to anything???????
Cant remember why i mounted it here initially, maybe just to test fit??
Heres one that might interest folk, there is literally NOTHING out there on how to do this so thought up this method.
Make up a fake suspension mount and fix to the original so you have a point of reference, chop everything out, bolt the new one to it, then weld. Now the chopping out bit was interesting, could it have been more precise...yes but i made it work and it aint going anywhere. Overall i think it looks pretty good, did the same the other side of course. These were from a german firm Epytec and TUV rated
Make up a fake suspension mount and fix to the original so you have a point of reference, chop everything out, bolt the new one to it, then weld. Now the chopping out bit was interesting, could it have been more precise...yes but i made it work and it aint going anywhere. Overall i think it looks pretty good, did the same the other side of course. These were from a german firm Epytec and TUV rated
Then i got kind of wary about cutting more bits off the shell while in a roll over jig mainly the sills. So, i made a roll about jig at work and put the car on that to be supported at the main subframe points, it weighs about the same as the car!
The front panel was dead and so was one of the wee bits at the front beside the headlights so again got bits from Valcas garage
The front panel was dead and so was one of the wee bits at the front beside the headlights so again got bits from Valcas garage
Then set about making the front panel removable, just for the future really. will make it way easier doing engine bits. Also stuck it on its wheels for the first time in years to see what these new ones looked like. I was having a crisis of put extended arches on or not?? I cant find anything i actually like and i'm not going down the route of full M3 conversion. I've seen that E30 garage norway make something but still seems pretty unavailable as the direct buy option doesn't seem to be there yet for some reason, i could be wrong. Plus that would be an epic mission.
So i'll stick with standard for now and change later, i cant go back if i chop the rear arches. Again untill someone decides to make rear quarters again.....
I should add here that i reinforced each part then drilled and fitted rivnuts to the main body thus allowing me to bolt the front panel on Wheels are a touch too big offset wise but see what comes up
So i'll stick with standard for now and change later, i cant go back if i chop the rear arches. Again untill someone decides to make rear quarters again.....
I should add here that i reinforced each part then drilled and fitted rivnuts to the main body thus allowing me to bolt the front panel on Wheels are a touch too big offset wise but see what comes up
Now this, the dreaded rear arches. This was a total b@stard as i couldnt find any how to guides. The best idea i got was from BMP conversions where you chop the arch then make a bridging piece to weld to. I had already welded in a new lip but wasnt happy that the weld on the backside wasnt treated, was i being too @nal...probably. So i but it out then had to rebuild the lip on both sections. Getting it back in was a total b!tch but its in and its staying there!!
You will see the horrific welding going on with the arch piece, that was a real test of my patience, welding to crappy steel is a total nightmare. Chasing holes for ages. Also if you do this be really careful of exposed edges, i put a massive hole in my hand after whacking the inner lip. A mistake i wont make again!
You will see the horrific welding going on with the arch piece, that was a real test of my patience, welding to crappy steel is a total nightmare. Chasing holes for ages. Also if you do this be really careful of exposed edges, i put a massive hole in my hand after whacking the inner lip. A mistake i wont make again!
So onto the sill, again having never done this i had to just jump straight in and do it. Bit nerve wracking but i got there in the end. A good tip off a workmate was, if youre welding exterior panels make sure that if the join is going to be proud anywhere make sure the uppermost surface is the proud one. Looking down at the car you'd never see it, but it youre looking straight at an edge you'll see it all day. With that, onto the chopping.
I tried to keep as much original material there and use original fixing points. I used Bilt Hamber zinc spray for inside the sill for the best protection in the future, i'll fill this with cavity stuff also
I tried to keep as much original material there and use original fixing points. I used Bilt Hamber zinc spray for inside the sill for the best protection in the future, i'll fill this with cavity stuff also
So now onto current progress. I was so p!ssed off with the substandard job that had been done on the back of this thing. The number of holes that had been covered with filler and seam sealer was staggering. So, its come off and the rear boxes are being rebuild again with panels from Valcas and also bits i've found off scrap cars (which are obviously better as original). Again this rear corner was a bit nerve wracking as its an exterior part and any f*ck up then the world will see it.
And finally for this installment.
I'm onto doing the parcel shelf as my compressor blew up, means my wee air sander/ grinder is dead for now so fiddly bits are off the cards till its fixed. Thinking ahead, part of MSA ruling is to have a rear firewall if you have a fuel tank in the back somewhere, what i'm actually going to do here is up for debate but again finding some kind of guide for E30s or anything is pretty hard. Unless anyone has any links to stuff?? I see lots of folk put an aluminium panel over the whole lot, some weld up all the holes much like works cars etc. I wish i'd taken more pics at prodrive when i went for a visit!
My question is, going down the weld up all the holes route, what about the spaces above the rear arches etc? these will need to be plugged up i assume?? Anyone with any tips please get in touch
I got these panels off ebay as my current ones had huge speaker hole cut in them. Thought it would look a bit neater
I'm onto doing the parcel shelf as my compressor blew up, means my wee air sander/ grinder is dead for now so fiddly bits are off the cards till its fixed. Thinking ahead, part of MSA ruling is to have a rear firewall if you have a fuel tank in the back somewhere, what i'm actually going to do here is up for debate but again finding some kind of guide for E30s or anything is pretty hard. Unless anyone has any links to stuff?? I see lots of folk put an aluminium panel over the whole lot, some weld up all the holes much like works cars etc. I wish i'd taken more pics at prodrive when i went for a visit!
My question is, going down the weld up all the holes route, what about the spaces above the rear arches etc? these will need to be plugged up i assume?? Anyone with any tips please get in touch
I got these panels off ebay as my current ones had huge speaker hole cut in them. Thought it would look a bit neater
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rix313
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Great thread so far Chris! Very excited to see a new track car build. Any idea what engine you'll put in it yet? Regarding the rear firewall I covered mine with small carbon blanks that were tigersealed on. It was a very loborious task I must say!
Hmm i think money will be the issue here, i still have the M52 2.8 but need to dig into it adn see what mods could do to that. ITBs would be cool or a turbo for max power. But see you can get cheap power with an intake change or something. Would love an S50/52 but thats cash i dont have just now. Still need to find an LSD as mine was a viscous diff that is now completely in bits so need to refill that with goo and sell on.
Cheers for the tip on the firewall, it would seem theres no easy option. Surely theres someone on here with an ex-works car.....hint hint
Cheers for the tip on the firewall, it would seem theres no easy option. Surely theres someone on here with an ex-works car.....hint hint
- fixedwheelnut
- E30 Zone Regular

- Posts: 907
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: South East London
I agree, and we MUST see more of this please
Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
Just got too old.


