Little project beginning soon

[onthames]

Managed to source some e46 compact electric rear window systems after looking for ages... Going to be fitting to my E30 using custom 3D printed parts and will bolt onto directly where the current e30 manual ones sit (no damage will be done!).
Will document here and post the CAD etc so people can do this themselves.
To be continued!

imnJ3tz.png

[martauto]

Are these to open the rear "pop outs" ?
I had some on my e46 330`s and they were soooooooo cool
I could drop the windows with the key fob and these would open too which was even cooler
Will yours be the same ??

Mart.

[flybynite]

Interesting project, be good to know how it turns out.

I have thought of it a couple of times. Problem is I had them on my E36 M3 having ticked the box but used them probably twice in 10 years because they were too slow to be impressive so I gave up the idea. Curious to know if the E46 are quicker.

Problem is now I am using the rear switch holes an a moredoor console for the heated seats because I don't want to cut into a brand new rear centre console for them.

[onthames]

Interesting project, be good to know how it turns out.

I have thought of it a couple of times. Problem is I had them on my E36 M3 having ticked the box but used them probably twice in 10 years because they were too slow to be impressive so I gave up the idea. Curious to know if the E46 are quicker.

Problem is now I am using the rear switch holes an a moredoor console for the heated seats because I don't want to cut into a brand new rear centre console for them.

I don't wanna cut switches either so thinking of just sticking the switches in a little box that'll slot into the front ashtray as yeah don't wanna do irreversible things

I think they're pretty fast? Here's a video of them in action from a guy in Norway https://youtube.com/shorts/Ys1Nt-Z2bqU?feature=share

[onthames]

Are these to open the rear "pop outs" ?
I had some on my e46 330`s and they were soooooooo cool
I could drop the windows with the key fob and these would open too which was even cooler
Will yours be the same ??

Mart.

Yep for pop outs, no keyfob control unfortunately will be switches in the front

[martauto]

Are these to open the rear "pop outs" ?
I had some on my e46 330`s and they were soooooooo cool
I could drop the windows with the key fob and these would open too which was even cooler
Will yours be the same ??

Mart.

Yep for pop outs, no keyfob control unfortunately will be switches in the front

I did use them quite a lot just to get some "quiet" air flow and they were quick, loved them for the function and cooooooooool factor. lol

Mart.

[onthames]

Update 1: As a proof of concept I quickly attached and tested.
Here is a link to the video:

[martauto]

Brilliant mod

Do you have ideas about the cables ??

Mart.

[Satan]

Interesting project, be good to know how it turns out.

I have thought of it a couple of times. Problem is I had them on my E36 M3 having ticked the box but used them probably twice in 10 years because they were too slow to be impressive so I gave up the idea. Curious to know if the E46 are quicker.

Problem is now I am using the rear switch holes an a moredoor console for the heated seats because I don't want to cut into a brand new rear centre console for them.

I don't wanna cut switches either so thinking of just sticking the switches in a little box that'll slot into the front ashtray as yeah don't wanna do irreversible things

I think they're pretty fast? Here's a video of them in action from a guy in Norway https://youtube.com/shorts/Ys1Nt-Z2bqU?feature=share

There is a void/gap under the panel where the heater controls are suitable maybe for the switches?

[onthames]

Interesting project, be good to know how it turns out.

I have thought of it a couple of times. Problem is I had them on my E36 M3 having ticked the box but used them probably twice in 10 years because they were too slow to be impressive so I gave up the idea. Curious to know if the E46 are quicker.

Problem is now I am using the rear switch holes an a moredoor console for the heated seats because I don't want to cut into a brand new rear centre console for them.

I don't wanna cut switches either so thinking of just sticking the switches in a little box that'll slot into the front ashtray as yeah don't wanna do irreversible things

I think they're pretty fast? Here's a video of them in action from a guy in Norway https://youtube.com/shorts/Ys1Nt-Z2bqU?feature=share

There is a void/gap under the panel where the heater controls are suitable maybe for the switches?

Will have a look cheers

Another update: to get the angle right on the actuators you need some 30 degree washers that are about 3/8ths inch tall. I found some on eBay for cheap. All mounted up and working. Need to design the CAD for the plastic cover, should be pretty easy.
The only thing is the 3/8th inch washers make the windows open a little less than stock e30 manual popouts, but not a problem in my opinion.

[onthames]

Tutorial:
Credit to /e30m3_janmagga to helping me with most of this.
Unfortunately I ran over my phone with a trolley jack so am unable to take pictures at the moment, however I think a written guide will suffice for now.

Parts needed:
Two E46 Compact (left and right) motors and actuators
Two E30 window switches
Wire (I just used 5 amp speaker wire as what I had)
T splicers
4.8mm self tapping screws - I used 38mm long ones but anything around that length will do
30 degree angled washers https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224494887671
You may need a couple of flat washers.

optional: Clarke flexible drive shaft x2
Any welder

1. Take the plastic cover off the E30 manual rear popout windows actuator brackets, they just pop off with a screwdriver.
2. Stick a bit of electrical tape on the outside of the popout windows over the black nub (to stop yourself from losing it when you unscrew it)
3. Unscrew the screw that connects the actuator to the window glass
4. Unscrew the actuator bracket
5. Place old actuators and screws to one side, remove the electrical tape and plastic nub that sits on the outerside of the rear window glass
6. Offer up the E46 actuator bracket to the existing screw holes, you will notice that the bracket has a twist in it and we need to remove this twist by adding the 30 degree washers. Furthermore, to ensure correct alignment, temporarily screw in the screw that slots into the slot on the actuator bracket that is nearest the front of the car. The slot is elongated: slide the actuator forward as far as possible (so the screw is in at the rear of the front slot), look through the rear slot on the actuator bracket (towards the back of the car) and you will note that the hole in the pillar is no longer visible. So, remove the actuator bracket, measure the distance between the two holes in the pillar, and then place a mark on the actuator bracket measured from the back of the front slot. This will give you the position for the new screwhole on the actuator bracket. Drill the hole.
7. Add the washers and screw in the actuator bracket using your new 4.8mm screws. We need longer screws because of the washers we have added. The angle of the metal bracket should now be perpendicular to the floor, and not be flush with the mounting point on the cars pillar.
8. While the actuator is in position, temporarily mount the motor using the drive cable, and then power it using a 12 volt battery/supply.
9. Power it such that the motor retracts the actuator fully (as if it were closing the window)
10. Remove the power supply and disconnect the motor drive cable from the actuator again
11. Attach the actuator end to the window, to do this: place the outside nub through the hole in the glass and tape on the outside using electrical tape (or have a friend hold it for you). Then, screw on the small hex head through the actuator window mount through the glass and into the nub on the outside. The inside piece has a square depression which a square protrusion on the outside nub fits into, so some rotation of the outside piece may be required to get it to fully screw together. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, YOU WILL BREAK THE GLASS. You have now successfully mounted the actuators.
12. Give the actuators a test by mounting the motor drive, powering the motor in both directions while holding the motor assembly (to stop it spinning!).
13. Ensure the windows close FULLY. Check from the outside, they should press on the seal firmly. If need be, reattach one of the stock E30 manual actuators and observe how tightly it pulls the window in to make a seal.
14. If your windows are not closing enough the solution is simple, add a few flat washers in combination with the 30 degree washers used previously. This will move the actuator slightly further from the pillar, which in turn means the actuator closed position is nearer to the inside of the car, pulling the windows in nice and tightly.
15. Remove the rear seats, rear seat backs and parcel tray. Tutorials for this are on Youtube. But in short, the rear seats simply lift up. The back seat requires removal of the two seatbelt bolts and also two screws that screw into the sides of the car (hidden behind where the door card ends and the backrest begins, hidden by extra door card fabric. Then slide the rear backrests up, and remove from the car. Lift the parcel tray up, unplug any speakers and then pop it out and remove.
16. Drill a hole large enough for the drive cable. The position of this hole is up to you, but I drilled it right in the back corner of the parcel shelf, very close to where the connector is for the rear demister (if you have it). Make sure you check in the trunk before you drill and ensure that there are no wires in the way!. Disconnect your car battery as a precaution. Drilling this hole is an absolute bitch. It is not feasible to do from the rear seats, unless you remove the rear glass, and must be done upwards from the boot itself. To get the angle and vision, I had to lay in the boot with my feet dangling off one side. You must remove the interior plastic inside the boot to do this. Personally, I recommend just removing the rear glass. You must still also remove the plastic trim inside the boot so you can mount the motors and check that you're not drilling into any wires (disconnect the battery!!)
17. You are now at a critical turning point. If you connect the drive cables to the actuators, and then slot the drive cables down the holes you have drilled, you will note that they barely have enough length to get through. This means that the motors must be mounted under the parcel shelf in the corners where we drilled. The problem is it very difficult (at least for myself) to secure them in there as the actuators for the boot lid are in the way and its very tight. Personally, I would recommend extending the drive cables, such that you can mount the motors much lower down. To do this, you could purchase Clarke flexible drive shaft x2 and weld the ends of each drive shaft together, essentially extending the length and allowing for an easier motor location.
18. Once you have mounted the motors, perform a test using your 12v supply, ensure the windows work as intended and that they close fully and create a good seal.
19. Extend the wires coming off of the motors using a wire of your choice (I used 5 amp speaker cable). You need enough wire to run down the back of the rear seats, under the carpet on the nearside sill, above the glovebox, behind the heater controls and under the centre console to the front window switches.
20. Remove the centre console. There are tutorials for this on youtube.
21. Pop out the front window switches.
22. Use the T splice connectors to splice into the green + the two brown wires on each connector.
23. Decide where you want to put your switches. I put mine in the gap between the console and heater controls - if you look in the storage compartment near the front ashtray, and peer up, you will see the gap. Alternatively you could cut holes behind the front window switches.
23. Run wires from each splice to the location of your new switch
24. Connect the wires using spade connectors onto the new switch. Green should be on Pin 3 of the switch, and the brown/brown should be on pins 4 and 5.
25. You now have power coming from the front window switch to the rear window switch (you do this for both sides...)
26. Remove the nearside sill strip and run the cable for BOTH motors along the sill, above the glovebox, behind the heater controls and to the position of your switches. For disassemble of these interior components for access to do the wiring use Youtube and google.
27. Use spade connectors on the end of the motor wires to connect to pins 1/8 on the bottom of the rear window switch. Before putting things back together, make sure that the switches are operating in the correct direction. If not, swap the wires on pins 1/8 of the switch. Do this for both sides
28. Resassemble your interior, back seats, boot, rear parcel shelf, etc. Don't forget to plug your rear speakers back in like I did.
29. The system should now work. 3D print or fabricate some covers that fit over the top of the e46 actuator brackets. As a guide, you want them to look similar the the ones off of the stock E30 manual actuators. I will post a CAD model for this print in the future as I have not done it yet.

For all wiring, do not just twist wires together and tape. Solder where needed and wrap the wires in tesa tape. You should never see bare copper anywhere in this wiring system.
I am not liable for any damage you do to your vehicle, any physical harm that you do to yourself or anything else for that matter. If at any point you are not sure what you're doing, stop and consult a professional.

[onthames]

(Am yet to make the 3d printed covers)

[steve_k]

thats a good little write up sam, looks like i'll be popping into the local scrappies soon with a list.

[onthames]

thats a good little write up sam, looks like i'll be popping into the local scrappies soon with a list.

Thanks! I got the parts by messaging around 50 breakers on ebay who had e46 compact breaking adverised and asking if they had any of the parts. Only 1 did so quite hard to find them! Could buy new from BMW but it'll set you back

[brutus]

star man u are !

[DanThe]

Ive never been interested in pop out windows as I cant be arsed to get in the back to open them, this could change

[onthames]

Ive never been interested in pop out windows as I cant be arsed to get in the back to open them, this could change

exactly why I did it. Its really nice to have the sun roof down on a hot day with the back windows open and get a nice draft through the car without having wind blasted in your face by having the front windows down. however when they were manual I'd always set off and forget to open them and couldn't be bothered to pull over and open... no problem now though

[martauto]

Ive never been interested in pop out windows as I cant be arsed to get in the back to open them, this could change

1. Write up..................Brilliant
2. Do you know if parts can be used from the e46 ?
3. Why the hell has this not been done before ?
4. Dan, you WILL use them, they are such an asset.
5. Write up..................Brilliant

Mart.

[onthames]

Yes I agree. Dan should do them and join the exclusive club . We are currently at two members (that I know of) and need more desperately!

[onthames]

Or alternatively... I can do for Dan and he can fit my E46 clubsport steering rack for me that has been sitting on the shelf (along with his custom linkage) for months!

[rix313]

Nice through write up Sam, thanks for sharing. My only criticism (potentially) is the ‘t splice’ you mention. What did you use? After removing my dash and repairing countless bodged in scotch locks I would advise using something safer and more long term

[Tzantushka]

This is pretty cool.
Wait, this is brilliant!

[onthames]

Nice through write up Sam, thanks for sharing. My only criticism (potentially) is the ‘t splice’ you mention. What did you use? After removing my dash and repairing countless bodged in scotch locks I would advise using something safer and more long term

Aye they are essentially scotch locks. I wasn't sure how else to do it other than soldering splices on which I didn't trust myself to do inside the car. I did heatshrink and label them but I agree not the best solution. The best way would be to take apart the connector that goes onto the window switch itself and add extra wires I'm there, but it looked as if it had been plastic welded on as I couldn't find any screws on it... Will have to investigate

[onthames]

Screenshot_20210914-140842.png

I got the actuator 3d scanned by Manchester metrology for £50. Amazing value. Now can design the cover much more effectively.

[martauto]

Lovely model, what do you have in mind for the cover ??

Mart.

[flybynite]

I got the actuator 3d scanned by Manchester metrology for £50. Amazing value. Now can design the cover much more effectively.

Looks good, I was thinking of making a cut in the alloy frame and tigging it back on at the correct angle for the E30. It would save the washers and give you full extension on the opening.

[onthames]

I got the actuator 3d scanned by Manchester metrology for £50. Amazing value. Now can design the cover much more effectively.

Looks good, I was thinking of making a cut in the alloy frame and tigging it back on at the correct angle for the E30. It would save the washers and give you full extension on the opening.

Would definitely work for sure. I just wanted it to be easily removable on my car

[onthames]

Lovely model, what do you have in mind for the cover ??

Mart.

Black flexible plastic that looks oem hopefully that covers the bracket, press fit

[martauto]

Lovely model, what do you have in mind for the cover ??

Mart.

Black flexible plastic that looks oem hopefully that covers the bracket, press fit

Toolmaker talking to a very clear guy , ............3D printing ?

Mart.

[onthames]

Lovely model, what do you have in mind for the cover ??

Mart.

Black flexible plastic that looks oem hopefully that covers the bracket, press fit

Toolmaker talking to a very clear guy , ............3D printing ?

Mart.

Yep, will be 3D printed

[flybynite]

Would definitely work for sure. I just wanted it to be easily removable on my car

It would still be removable, bolt-on the same way, I am just talking about taking some of the angle out of the alloy mounting that bolts to the C-pillar. It would also make the cover easier to make as it has less of a twist to cope with so it could be flatter.

[onthames]

Would definitely work for sure. I just wanted it to be easily removable on my car

It would still be removable, bolt-on the same way, I am just talking about taking some of the angle out of the alloy mounting that bolts to the C-pillar. It would also make the cover easier to make as it has less of a twist to cope with so it could be flatter.

Ohhh I see what you mean.
Quite a good idea that!

[onthames]

A friend of mine followed the guide I wrote and made the hard bit a little easier... Instead of laying in the boot like an idiot like I did he just took the back glass out to drill the hole in the parcel shelf... Added to the guide!