Central locking issues - Deadlocked 'open'?

[Chris89]

Hi all, I am having some central locking issues. I am new to the forum, so please bear with me if this has been answered before. I have searched everywhere but couldn't see an answer. All had been well up to a week ago.

When I bought the car, the central locking didn't work. I found the resistor/fuse in the CLCU had de-soldered and after repairing that, it worked a treat. The locks were very stiff though, so last year I fitted a Right Click remote locking kit to avoid bending the key. This also worked just fine.

The battery gave up the ghost this winter, it simply wouldn't hold a charge anymore and by the time I replaced it, was virtually flat. I replaced the battery and initially all was well. However, I was doing some cleaning as it had been covered up for weeks and heard the actuators work. The system was now dead. The resistor/fuse had de-soldered itself again. I fixed that again, connected it all back up and left the CLCU against the side of the footwell. I got one pulse from the actuators and now they are dead/jammed open.

All the locks are now jammed solid, i.e. I cannot lock any of the locks, the key won't turn to lock, only unlock. The door pins are also jammed. I can hear the CLCU click if I press lock on my remote, I have disconnected the battery, my Right Click kit and the CLCU, but the locks remain jammed.

Could anyone give me any pointers. I am no electrical expert at all, but know how to access everything I need to. I have not done the red/black wire loop mod I have just been reading about (I do though have heated door locks (whether they work though is another matter entirely!))

Many thanks all.

[Chris89]

Hi, I would dearly love some help on this. Essentially the actuators appear deadlocked open. I do not know how this happened and from what I have picked up, I may need to bridge the wiring to try and free them up again. The CLCU appears to be working as I can hear it clicking. Please, any help will be greatly appreciated.

[martauto]

Where`s Brian when you need him ??

Mart.

[BenHar]

The boot actuator and fuel flap do not have deadlocks.

With no power the actuators should be easily moved by hand.

Try taking a door card off and moving one?

Ben

[Chris89]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will give that a go.

[Chris89]

OK, so I have removed the boot actuator and it is completely stuck in position. Pulling on these is not the answer. On the positive side, with this removed, I can now lock the boot!

I can only assume something else is going on. Is it possible the CLCU has sent a 'deadlock' signal to the actuators and if so is there a way to reverse this. It is clearly not a mechanical issue alone.

Any help here is appreciated. At the very least I know I can now revert to manual locks without issue.

Thanks all.

[fixedwheelnut]

It sounds like the actuators have burn't out, the solder fuse in the control unit is there to protect them, the fact that you had to solder it again and over ride it means damage has continued. I would disconnect all the actuators reconnect the control unit and see if you are getting any voltages where you should not.

You should check boot hinge and door hinge wiring looms for damage and short circuit as they are the usual suspects. If they are OK try a new Central locking control relay and start from there.

Check each individual actuator with power and earth to the various pins.

Here is a link to a 1989 wiring diagram, Central locking is pretty standard across most E30's
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jiMLQA ... sp=sharing

[Brianmoooore]

Late to the party!
What fixedwheelnut says above, but these circuit diagrams are easier to follow: http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/BMW/19 ... /fig10.pdf