Shakey Steering wheel

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kenwoir
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Wed Feb 15, 2006 11:56 am

What are potentials to cause the steering wheel to shake like a shittin' dog? It's at it's worst at around 60-80mph up to this speed it's not so bad and above this speed it tends to fade away.

Wheels were rebalanced and Ball joints have been replaced 2 weeks ago but didnt cure it.

Is it likely to be track rod ends? ANy other likely culprits?

many thanks in advance
i8lufc
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Wed Feb 15, 2006 12:11 pm

See the post "Bad vibes at 80 Mph" mate, had some info back from a couple of technical people.
kenwoir
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Wed Feb 15, 2006 12:46 pm

Thanks mate, it doesnt cover too many possible causes tho which i was hoping some of you guys may be able to list so i can try and go through a process of elimination to cure.
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Brianmoooore
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Wed Feb 15, 2006 10:01 pm

Change the control arm bushes, preferably for M3 ones, reset the tracking, and I'd be very surprised if the vibration isn't gone.
Martinaston
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Wed Feb 15, 2006 10:07 pm

It could be a binding brake caliper, see if one wheel gets hot.
There is NO nucleus.
kenwoir
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Thu Feb 16, 2006 7:17 am

Brianmoooore wrote:Change the control arm bushes, preferably for M3 ones, reset the tracking, and I'd be very surprised if the vibration isn't gone.
Thanks, having seen how people call out for your advice on here i will look to change these asap, are they a press out press in job like ball joints?

Not to doubt but if this doesnt cure it have you any other suggestions?
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:08 am

kenwoir wrote:
Brianmoooore wrote:Change the control arm bushes, preferably for M3 ones, reset the tracking, and I'd be very surprised if the vibration isn't gone.
Thanks, having seen how people call out for your advice on here i will look to change these asap, are they a press out press in job like ball joints?

Not to doubt but if this doesnt cure it have you any other suggestions?
I can't be sure it's these from 400 miles away, but they are often responsible for front wheel vibration at certain speeds.
The bushes can be cut and ground off the control arms, and cut or pressed out of the eyes.
There is no problem with unscewing the two bolts that hold the mounting eye in place. It won't spring away or the suspension collapse, and can be pulled back into position by hand.
The new bush needs to be pressed into the mounting eye, but I can usually do this using just an engineers vice. Note, there is a marling on the bush, that has to face the mark on the eye,directly opposite the mounting bracket.
I've seen several on the wrong way, probably because of a confusing photo in te Haynes manual (which is actually of a 5 series).
Then the centre of the bush and the control arm have to be lubricated with plenty of 50:50 mix of washing up liquid and water, ( DO NOT USE ANY PERMANENT LUBRICANT,) and pushed by hand (very tight and hard to do, but it will go), into place, the bolts put back in, and the car placed back on the ground quickly, so that the bush will rotate on the control arm to an untwisted rest position before the lubricant dries.
kenwoir
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Thu Feb 16, 2006 9:37 am

Thanks brian, i appreciate the help. I'll make a few calls to get parts today and give them ago over the weekend.
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mk1chopper
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Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:12 am

I have the same problem with my 318is, from the last mot it was noted that there was slight wear on off side off steering rack (might be worth checking this). It had a retest (different station) and it was'nt picked up agin but bonded suspension was picked up, would this refer to the control arm bushes?
paulj
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Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:27 am

May be a bit simple soloution but do your wheels need balancing?
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kenwoir
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Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:51 am

paulj wrote:May be a bit simple soloution but do your wheels need balancing?
As you'll see in my original post i mentioned i got the wheels balanced and replaced ball joints
Dan318-is
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Sun Feb 19, 2006 11:54 am

what wheels are you running mate?

Are they the right offset/tyre size?
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