[PROBLEM SOLVED]
Hi everybody, I will describe to you what I have discovered so far and what the problem is.
Some info about my car:
323i 139HP Coupe, production year 07.1983, Mileage in kilometers 108300.
First of all, the problem is that my engine runs impure/unevenly, vibrates strangely, and feeds too much fuel.
I notice also that the engine speed doesn't go above 4000rpm (-+400) and the accelerator pedal is fully depressed to the floor. I small also fuel form the exhouse.
There is no problem with starting the engine when cold or hot. But if cold and have some brake form driving need to wait 3-5sec to run (I think that's normal).
Todo:
- replaced the Head gasket to a new original one
- polished the valves
- replaced all the seals in the whole engine
- checking fuel injectors (Everything is OK)
- checking the fuel pressure reducer (works)
- fuel pump pressure (2.2bar)
- fuel pump voltage (14.1V when Engine on / 11.8V after turning the ignition but the engine is not running)
- ECU wire (has no leaks and all cables are OK)
- ignition cables, distributor and distributor's finger (NEW)
- ignition coil (not checked)
- coolant sensors
-- - 12746233 / room temp. about 24°C = 360Ω / about 80°C = 860Ω
-- - 0280130023 / about 85°C = 5050Ω / about 0°C = 460Ω
-- - 1285018 / it turns over 70°C
-- - 0824121003 (need to check again)
- oil pressure sensor (not checked)
- fuel lines (new)
- fuel filter (new)
- AFM sensors (there is resistance but it may cause issues, need to check again with 5V constant)
-- - air flow sensor
-- - temp. sensor (resistance change when heating)
- ignition timing (all signs in place, OK)
- throttle (checked, sensor works fine when open/close there is a resistance)
- tightness of the intake system (checked with starter spray, no changes) (need to check with smoke machine/e-cigarette)
- additional air valve (works fine, when hot it close, when cold it opens)
[SOLVED][M20B23] 323i 139HP 1983 after engine rebuild (problem with engine running)
Moderator: martauto
The L-Jetronic on the 323i is a bit of a pig, at least you don't have the high compression 150bhp one which is worse.
They are renowned for vacuum leaks and that is where I would look, make sure all the tubes are in good condition and back where they should be. The additional air valve can also cause problems but I think it causes more startup problems.
They are renowned for vacuum leaks and that is where I would look, make sure all the tubes are in good condition and back where they should be. The additional air valve can also cause problems but I think it causes more startup problems.
I don't mention that the compression on all cylinders is about 11.5bar = 166psi. I will take a look if there are some vacuum leaks.
The additional air valve which is it?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/partgrp? ... 323i&mg=11
I want to buy new vacuum lines, can anyone recommend something?
The additional air valve which is it?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/partgrp? ... 323i&mg=11
I want to buy new vacuum lines, can anyone recommend something?
websky wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2020 6:25 pmI don't mention that the compression on all cylinders is about 11.5bar = 166psi. I will take a look if there are some vacuum leaks.
The additional air valve which is it?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/partgrp? ... 323i&mg=11
I want to buy new vacuum lines, can anyone recommend something?
http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/13898-e3 ... ange-idle/
Ok, I checked the additional air valve. It closes when it's hot and open when cold (I think it works fine).
The throttle sensor works fine.
I also make a video on how the engine speed stops at 4000.
If I add gas sharply, the engine speed stops around 3800. If I add gas evenly and slowly, the engine speed reaches about 5500 and also stops.
Here is a video:
The throttle sensor works fine.
I also make a video on how the engine speed stops at 4000.
If I add gas sharply, the engine speed stops around 3800. If I add gas evenly and slowly, the engine speed reaches about 5500 and also stops.
Here is a video:
The 2.3 was never as smooth as the 2.0 or 2.5 so the rocking isn’t unusual.
Are all the vacuum pipes on chin the right place?
I’ll post up the plan when I can locate it.
Are all the vacuum pipes on chin the right place?
I’ll post up the plan when I can locate it.
'82 323i henna
'90 320iSE sterling silver No more!
'10 116d Sport Red - MkI
'12 1.4 Punto Easy Exotica Red
'11 X3 3.0d SE
'89 240 DL Estate
'90 320iSE sterling silver No more!
'10 116d Sport Red - MkI
'12 1.4 Punto Easy Exotica Red
'11 X3 3.0d SE
'89 240 DL Estate
In the place where is No. 12, I have two inputs as you can see in the picture, first goes to the collector and the second to the throttle. Also, the pipes that come from No. 7 are connected together, don't know why. I check the rest tomorrow.
- Attachments
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No 7 is your air valve slide.
On mine 11b is connected direct to the Manifold, missing out 8 and 8 has a loop of pipe just closing it off. It has made no difference to mine whatsoever.
On mine 11b is connected direct to the Manifold, missing out 8 and 8 has a loop of pipe just closing it off. It has made no difference to mine whatsoever.
'82 323i henna
'90 320iSE sterling silver No more!
'10 116d Sport Red - MkI
'12 1.4 Punto Easy Exotica Red
'11 X3 3.0d SE
'89 240 DL Estate
'90 320iSE sterling silver No more!
'10 116d Sport Red - MkI
'12 1.4 Punto Easy Exotica Red
'11 X3 3.0d SE
'89 240 DL Estate
Here is a pic of mine as it sits now (don't laugh) but it shows where things are connected (under the bonnet foam debris.)
It is the first of the 150bhp models so there are differences
But this is why this engine will be kept for posterity and a the next one will run on motronic
I have had enough Jetronic fun and games years ago
Top marks for getting it looking so good though
It is the first of the 150bhp models so there are differences
But this is why this engine will be kept for posterity and a the next one will run on motronic
I have had enough Jetronic fun and games years ago
Top marks for getting it looking so good though
In you picture websky, number 1 is just a fuel damper to reduces the impulses from the fuel pump. They are not necessary as mine is without one there.
As I said on mine, number 8 is there but not piped up, just looped round.
On the attached photo you can see my number 1 from the diagram and my number 8 from the diagram and the hose that loops from number 8. So no it is not a necessity as number 1 is.
The air valve you said just had a loop of pipe instead of piped correctly - have you sorted that now?
As I said on mine, number 8 is there but not piped up, just looped round.
On the attached photo you can see my number 1 from the diagram and my number 8 from the diagram and the hose that loops from number 8. So no it is not a necessity as number 1 is.
The air valve you said just had a loop of pipe instead of piped correctly - have you sorted that now?
- Attachments
-
'82 323i henna
'90 320iSE sterling silver No more!
'10 116d Sport Red - MkI
'12 1.4 Punto Easy Exotica Red
'11 X3 3.0d SE
'89 240 DL Estate
'90 320iSE sterling silver No more!
'10 116d Sport Red - MkI
'12 1.4 Punto Easy Exotica Red
'11 X3 3.0d SE
'89 240 DL Estate
When testing a fuel pump, what do I need to pay attention to? What values can be achieved and how to test a fuel pump correctly? It will probably be the pump's fault. I unplugged the vacuum supply from the pressure regulator slightly improved work at low speed. It seems that the pump performance has decreased.
I tested the fuel pump pressure and this is what I got.
1. picture is the pressure after turning the ignition and fuel pressure regulator disconnected.
2. picture when engine running and fuel pump regulator disconnected.
3. picture when engine running and fuel pump regulator connected.
1. picture is the pressure after turning the ignition and fuel pressure regulator disconnected.
2. picture when engine running and fuel pump regulator disconnected.
3. picture when engine running and fuel pump regulator connected.
Hi, I think the problem is a bad fuel pressure regulator. Another problem is the high price ($250 OEM) of a new regulator. Question: Are there any other regulators that fit into my engine? They don't need to be a BMW part, maybe from other companies will also fit? Looking for some cheap one to check if the pressure regulator is bad.
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!
I replaced ECU with another one and the problem with low RPM is gone. Now the power is back. All other parts are ok.
But it seems that this little peace is broken, can someone tell me if this needs to be closed/glue together? Looks like it was soldered.
I replaced ECU with another one and the problem with low RPM is gone. Now the power is back. All other parts are ok.
But it seems that this little peace is broken, can someone tell me if this needs to be closed/glue together? Looks like it was soldered.
- Attachments
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Hi, I have a 1983 323i.
I just fixed that switch a few days ago, both plates are soldered indeed, however I did not attemp to resolder them because I was afraid to drop material inside the plate, also it was half opened. First I cleaned thoroughly the inside of the diaphragm from the opened area and from the hose fitting end then I sealed it with loctite 5699 very carefully, precisely and just enough to join the matting faces, waited a few hours and slight recoated the edge to ensure the job, then waited 24 hours to meet/exceed the curating time. (Be careful not to spill sealant or bridge it to near surfaces)
I also had to change a small resistance beneath the micro switch connectors so check continuity to ensure the proper functionality of this piece.
There are three plastic anchoring points which tend to break so be careful, otherwise you'll have to cold weld(there's too little room for rivets or screws) the plate as I had to.
As in this unit there is only suction I consider there is no need for hard glues or welds, just a sealed and flexible union to ensure vacuum effect.
I tested the job on a straight 6 hour journey between 3k and 4k rpm and no problems at all. Also noticed a little extra pull at full throttle.
Hope this hint helped.
Cheers
I just fixed that switch a few days ago, both plates are soldered indeed, however I did not attemp to resolder them because I was afraid to drop material inside the plate, also it was half opened. First I cleaned thoroughly the inside of the diaphragm from the opened area and from the hose fitting end then I sealed it with loctite 5699 very carefully, precisely and just enough to join the matting faces, waited a few hours and slight recoated the edge to ensure the job, then waited 24 hours to meet/exceed the curating time. (Be careful not to spill sealant or bridge it to near surfaces)
I also had to change a small resistance beneath the micro switch connectors so check continuity to ensure the proper functionality of this piece.
There are three plastic anchoring points which tend to break so be careful, otherwise you'll have to cold weld(there's too little room for rivets or screws) the plate as I had to.
As in this unit there is only suction I consider there is no need for hard glues or welds, just a sealed and flexible union to ensure vacuum effect.
I tested the job on a straight 6 hour journey between 3k and 4k rpm and no problems at all. Also noticed a little extra pull at full throttle.
Hope this hint helped.
Cheers
By the way, re seal the plastic case to ensure water proofing, black loctite SI 593 did the job for me with aesthetic results. You may also secure the job with small plastic wire ties, there are slots at each corner of the case that have enough room for them.