325i, 11yrs in storage. No power to pump feed wire, plus various other faults

[haryj]

Hi all,

Some of you's may have seen my post in the newbie section. For those of you's haven't, here is a brief insight of my car.

It was stored for 11 years and ended up having rain water enter some of the electronics, as well as various connectors becoming midly corroded, however i'm slowly getting there in fixing the major issues first, then down to the smallest

Initially the ignition switch suffered the most, as it's internal contacts were fully water corroded, i cleaned it up and however it weren't quite 100%, therefore i ended up replacing it for a good used one. From this point i finally got some ignition lights up.

The car eventually was cranking intermittently, i then replaced the starter motor and had the alternator rebuilt at the same time. Up until this point i just had the engine cranking all the way but still no life. I then moved onto the spark side of things, all leads seemed OK, all plugs were decent, there was decent spark generated from the plugs, as the car was fully serviced before being locked away.

FUELING:

-Vacuum hose to FPR checked, all OK, and no failing signs of the regulator.
-Fuel hoses all OK
- Lifted fuel tank cover and tested the pump directly and it was completely dead Further, it was here i checked the power to the harness plug, i believe on the E30's it's only live when engine is running and not with general 12v ignition.
- Fitted a temporary spare pump i had from my Pulsar GTIR and then gave it a direct feed from the battery (used the earth from original connector) and Hey Presto the car FINALLY STARTED!!!!

Checking Relays & Wiring:

I referred to the Electrical fault finding diagram (1360-6), i checked all the wires from main supply to relay's, fusebox and then right the way down to fuel pump. I carried out continuity tests among the wires nothing failed . There is power everywhere there's supposed to be in. If i was to still put take a guess i'd say the connection from the Fuse box to the pump. I even carried out the Jump wire test from pins 30 to 87 after putting the new fuel pump, there still was no joy!



Could there also be an association with Temp sensors and Crankshaft position sensor? As these have not been diagnosed yet.



Hary..

[minesapint]

I tell you what, I seriously hope you got some oil into those cylinders and gently turned her over by hand, and you’ve replaced the timing belt etc before you started all this cranking.

[haryj]

I tell you what, I seriously hope you got some oil into those cylinders and gently turned her over by hand, and you’ve replaced the timing belt etc before you started all this cranking.

Thanks for your concerns all was taken care for, it indeed is a very healthy engine

[minesapint]

That’s great to hear.

[martauto]

Just a point, the fuel must be terrible by now if you have not changed it

Mart.

[haryj]

It was more or less empty, i’ve put fresh fuel into it, although the tank is in a state, all will be replaced at later stage.

[Brianmoooore]

Take the pump relay out again and short 30 and 87, then use a 12v lamp to see how far the power is getting. Try touching the wire to your lamp onto the actual fuse wire in fuse 11 first, then try at the plug on the RH side of the rear seat pan, then finally at the pump plug. Use an independent earth for your lamp while doing these tests - don't rely on the brown earth wire in the loom. If the lamp lights at the pump plug, check the brown wire from the plug to the earth point on the LH side of the rear seat.
If this doesn't sort it, start looking for an old immobiliser connected into the wire.