Wiring diagram to help alarm install?

[WaynE30]

Would anyone have a link to a wiring diagram for a 1990 320i.
I’m going to be fitting an alarm & immobiliser and would help if I knew what was what for the central locking / electric windows / door switches and fuel pump maybe without tracing each wire separately.

Many thanks

[Brianmoooore]

http://www.autolib.diakom.ru/CAR/BMW/19 ... 0DIAGRAMS/

All the connections you need are behind the glove box area. Connect to the lock/unlock request lines for the locking ECU, not the lock motors themselves. Windows control isn't easily possible on an E30.
Be aware that anyone who knows what they are doing can defeat any E30 alarm and immobiliser in seconds, although immobilising the fuel pump increases that time a bit. Arranging for the immobiliser to short out the supply to the fuel pump rather than disconnect it is the most effective.

[WaynE30]

Thank you very much brian your a star

[WaynE30]

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[WaynE30]

Hi brian
Finally got round to having a look at fitting the alarm
Do you know the exact locations of these lock/unlock request wires?
I’m looking behind the glove box and can see a thick green/blue coming from blue relay but can’t find yellow /blue. Do those two relays both control lock/unlock.
I can see those request wires go to control module but if I can do all the wiring from behind the glove box that will be handy

[WaynE30]

Not to worry I’ve found the control module so will pick up my trigger wires from there

[Brianmoooore]

The lock and unlock request wires are in the bunch coming from behind the LH speaker, coming down from the door loom socket in the A pillar. The two relays in your pic. are nothing to do with the central locking.

[Tzantushka]

Have a good read of this thread and this thread for tapping into the central locking circuit.

You'll need to remove the LHS speaker kick panel to access the wires.

LHS behind the glovebox is preferable as for RHD vehicles all the wires you need are in one place.
+ 12V continuous
Ground
LH & RH indicator wires
Central locking lock & unlock wires
Plus room to install the module

[WaynE30]

Cheers guys I’ve sorted the lock / unlock. Did it the hard way and run wires to the control module behind drivers speaker
So indicator wires are behind passenger speaker

[Brianmoooore]

No, indicator wires are on the accessories socket.

[WaynE30]

Ok yeah I see Blue/black & blue / red
Thanks Brian

[WaynE30]

Think I’ve gone and blown my central locking module
I’m fitting a Clifford arrow 5.1 and connected everything up except the two white wires that are for the indicators. So connected one to black / blue and the other to black / red behind glove box.
When locking and unlocking the indicators didn’t flash?
So reading the Clifford manual it says to connect the white / red cable to 12v.. this is the point I should of continued to read as soon as I connected it to 12v it went a bit haywire and everything stoped working
When re-reading the manual it says if the indicators use a negative signal then connect white/red to ground!. So connected to ground and now when I press the remote to lock the doors they lock for a second and then unlock by themselves.
Disconnected the alarm and tried to lock the car with the key and it does the same locks both doors for a second then unlocks on it own.
Took the module out to see if I’ve fried anything but no obvious damage.

[Brianmoooore]

I don't know why alarm installation manuals are written in a weird language of there own, but I would interpret E30 indicators as needing a 'positive signal'.
Are you testing the system with the driver's door open? An E30 will lock and instantly unlock again if the driver's door isn't shut properly.

[WaynE30]

I’ve tried that brian thought the same myself

[WaynE30]

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[Brianmoooore]

There's a couple of diodes in the locking ECU that are vulnerable to damage if you try to unlock when the deadlock switch on the driver's door lock is engaged, but I can't see how you would have manged to do this.
I think it's more likely that the system thinks the door is open, because the lock motor isn't being pushed quite far enough to switch off the internal unlock request switch. You'd need to adjust the lock motor in its slotted mounting holes to check this.

[WaynE30]

I’ll look into that thanks Brian

Strangely It was locking and unlocking fine before through the remote no problem
I think what I’ve done is touched a ground to positive somewhere As I touched the white/red flasher input onto 12v quick to check if that resolved the non flashing indicators

[Brianmoooore]

That might have presented a momentary short circuit across some relay contacts inside the Clifford, which isn't recommended. I think the lock and unlock request inputs to the BMW ECU are fairly well protected. The diodes that fail are associated with the ECU's outputs to the lock motors, not the inputs to it..

[WaynE30]

The Clifford did stop working momentarily and was non responsive when the remote was pressed but after 10 mins of being disconnected it started working again and this is the point when the door locks unlocked straight after locking. So disconnected the Clifford and was still the same when using the key in the lock.
When I touched the ground on 12v to locks went a bit crazy do you think I could of knocked something out of alignment with the locks?
Clutching straws