Anti-theft code in OBC is reset after each time

[calor]

Hi,

I've been trying to set up the anti-theft code but for some reason I only have to enter it once, not every time the car starts. It's not remembered.

Is this possibly related to my radio not remembering that I put it on Bluetooth instead of Radio, thus always defaulting to Radio instead of my last setting? It does remember Bass/Treble/etc.

Thanks!

[calor]

Anyone with idea's? Or is the anti theft supposed to be one time, that makes no sense to me.

[Cloggy Saint]

To be honest, I wouldn't be surprised if you were the only person that makes use of the OBC code function. As Brian has frequently said, any potential thief could get around it in a matter of seconds.

[flybynite]

Or is the anti theft supposed to be one time,

That is the way it has worked on all the ones I have had including the 5 series

[Bonymaenjack]

I still use mine as part of its security , the local inbreds around me haven't the intelligence to work out regardless how simple it is to bypass .+ the steering and wheel clamp may slow them down until the inbuilt tasers have recharged.

[Brianmoooore]

Hi,

I've been trying to set up the anti-theft code but for some reason I only have to enter it once, not every time the car starts. It's not remembered.

Exactly as it should be. Choose a random code every time you set it, and use the same code to unset it. It's only stored for the time the immobiliser is set.

[calor]

that's a shame, was hoping it would remember the code

[Brianmoooore]

that's a shame, was hoping it would remember the code

Wouldn't worry about it too much, Thirty seconds maximum to bypass it with something I always carry in my car. That applies to the dealer fitted BMW alarms fitted to cars of that era, and the vast majority of aftermarket ones.

[calor]

that's a shame, was hoping it would remember the code

Wouldn't worry about it too much, Thirty seconds maximum to bypass it with something I always carry in my car. That applies to the dealer fitted BMW alarms fitted to cars of that era, and the vast majority of aftermarket ones.

Fair enough. I was hoping for an easy anti-theft method that didn't involve having to put up a manual steering lock

[Brianmoooore]

Fair enough. I was hoping for an easy anti-theft method that didn't involve having to put up a manual steering lock

Take an E30 panel switch, such as a demister one, connect one wire from it to the green/purple wire to the fuel pump where it goes down past LH front speaker (tee into it, not cut it) and connect the other wire to the main earthing stud behind the gearbox. You can also arrange for the internal lamp in the switch to light when the ignition is on as a reminder, but it may just alert a potential thief as well.
Fit the switch in one of the spare locations in the dash.
Leave the switch turned on when you park the car.
If anyone tries to start the car, the engine will start and run for a few seconds, but will blow fuse 11, so the engine will stall, hopefully after the potential thief has started to move the car.
If he has sufficient knowledge of E30s to realise the pump isn't working and to check and replace the fuse, it will blow again and if he removes the panel in the rear seat and tries to hot wire the fuel pump, he will literately get a hot jumper wire, as he will be connecting to a dead short.

[Kalimsnor]

Fair enough. I was hoping for an easy anti-theft method that didn't involve having to put up a manual steering lock

Take an E30 panel switch, such as a demister one, connect one wire from it to the green/purple wire to the fuel pump where it goes down past LH front speaker (tee into it, not cut it) and connect the other wire to the main earthing stud behind the gearbox. You can also arrange for the internal lamp in the switch to light when the ignition is on as a reminder, but it may just alert a potential thief as well.
Fit the switch in one of the spare locations in the dash.
Leave the switch turned on when you park the car.
If anyone tries to start the car, the engine will start and run for a few seconds, but will blow fuse 11, so the engine will stall, hopefully after the potential thief has started to move the car.
If he has sufficient knowledge of E30s to realise the pump isn't working and to check and replace the fuse, it will blow again and if he removes the panel in the rear seat and tries to hot wire the fuel pump, he will literately get a hot jumper wire, as he will be connecting to a dead short.

The only green/purple wire I find behind the left speaker is for detecting if the doors are open:


Edit: ended up getting it done with the circuit interrupt button

[Brianmoooore]

"Goes down past the speaker", not from behind it. It's in the loom that runs down the corner and then back the LH sill,

[biffer]

i got caught out cutting this wire by mistake- the one you want is noticably thicker than this one

[Kalimsnor]

Fair enough. I was hoping for an easy anti-theft method that didn't involve having to put up a manual steering lock

Take an E30 panel switch, such as a demister one, connect one wire from it to the green/purple wire to the fuel pump where it goes down past LH front speaker (tee into it, not cut it) and connect the other wire to the main earthing stud behind the gearbox. You can also arrange for the internal lamp in the switch to light when the ignition is on as a reminder, but it may just alert a potential thief as well.
Fit the switch in one of the spare locations in the dash.
Leave the switch turned on when you park the car.
If anyone tries to start the car, the engine will start and run for a few seconds, but will blow fuse 11, so the engine will stall, hopefully after the potential thief has started to move the car.
If he has sufficient knowledge of E30s to realise the pump isn't working and to check and replace the fuse, it will blow again and if he removes the panel in the rear seat and tries to hot wire the fuel pump, he will literately get a hot jumper wire, as he will be connecting to a dead short.

Alright I've got it all installed as you described (I think). The only difference is I interrupted the wire near the fuse box, couldn't find it in the speaker-area. It works basically that the engine runs for a few sec, then shuts down and won't start (nu fuel) unless you press the button. However, fuse 11 is never blown at all. Is this because I interrupted the wire in a different location, perhaps after a relay instead of before a relay?

[Brianmoooore]

Take an E30 panel switch, such as a demister one, connect one wire from it to the green/purple wire to the fuel pump where it goes down past LH front speaker (tee into it, not cut it) and connect the other wire to the main earthing stud behind the glovebox. You can also arrange for the internal lamp in the switch to light when the ignition is on as a reminder, but it may just alert a potential thief as well.
Fit the switch in one of the spare locations in the dash.
Leave the switch turned on when you park the car.
If anyone tries to start the car, the engine will start and run for a few seconds, but will blow fuse 11, so the engine will stall, hopefully after the potential thief has started to move the car.
If he has sufficient knowledge of E30s to realise the pump isn't working and to check and replace the fuse, it will blow again and if he removes the panel in the rear seat and tries to hot wire the fuel pump, he will literately get a hot jumper wire, as he will be connecting to a dead short.

[Kalimsnor]

Take an E30 panel switch, such as a demister one, connect one wire from it to the green/purple wire to the fuel pump where it goes down past LH front speaker (tee into it, not cut it) and connect the other wire to the main earthing stud behind the glovebox. You can also arrange for the internal lamp in the switch to light when the ignition is on as a reminder, but it may just alert a potential thief as well.
Fit the switch in one of the spare locations in the dash.
Leave the switch turned on when you park the car.
If anyone tries to start the car, the engine will start and run for a few seconds, but will blow fuse 11, so the engine will stall, hopefully after the potential thief has started to move the car.
If he has sufficient knowledge of E30s to realise the pump isn't working and to check and replace the fuse, it will blow again and if he removes the panel in the rear seat and tries to hot wire the fuel pump, he will literately get a hot jumper wire, as he will be connecting to a dead short.

Read it wrong the first few times, thanks for clarifying. Still doing something wrong though. Fuse 11 won't blow (put a 5A fuse in there for testing) but the earthing wire basically burns out.

[Brianmoooore]

Read it wrong the first few times, thanks for clarifying. Still doing something wrong though. Fuse 11 won't blow (put a 5A fuse in there for testing) but the earthing wire basically burns out.

Either you're using very dubious quality fuses or a far to light gauge wire for the earth connection. Needs to be at least 1.0mm2.

[Kalimsnor]

Read it wrong the first few times, thanks for clarifying. Still doing something wrong though. Fuse 11 won't blow (put a 5A fuse in there for testing) but the earthing wire basically burns out.

Either you're using very dubious quality fuses or a far to light gauge wire for the earth connection. Needs to be at least 1.0mm2.

It was 1.0mm2. Is it possible I tee'd into the wire after the fuse box somehow that's causing this?