flybynite wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:10 am
Personally I would not worry too much about what the end result looks like as long as you kill the rust well. You can get it all blown in at one go at a time to suit.
The one that has not broke primer can be brushed with paint, however the one on the bottom of the door may have gone through and will need a bit more, maybe filling.
Rust needs carefully wire-brushing back to good metal (something like a dremmel or die grinder is ideal) treating with rust converter like Jenolite. Etch prime then build up to level with coats of primer and a final couple of coats of colour
Anything mixed professionally will either need a hardener to cure properly or a specific amount of heat, I would use aerosols sprayed into the cap for ease and a pack of cheap artists brushes.
You can get a good result even on metallic if you are patient use thin coats and let each coat dry properly. some 400, 600 and 1000 grade wet and dry round a matchbox size sanding block for rubbing down, plenty of soapy water.
A properly patch repaired car is far easier to put right than perfectly matching bubbling paint rusting through underneath
Thanks for this and what you said first is true, the main reason I'm wanting to do this is to treat the rust and not have a show car!!
With regards to the door it probably is beyond repair but I have a clean spare door that came with the car so that will replace it eventually.
I can understand what you say about the body shop paint needing a hardener which hadn't crossed my mind but makes sense now as they have the capability to cure the paint at high heat afterwards. So definitely leaning towards an aerosol or this type of liquid paint
https://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails ... uctID=5260.
And @Ukhozi I'm not looking at paying anyone to do this job at all, the whole point is to do the best job that I can myself and therefore am really appreciating the feedback and advice from others so that I can make an informed choice and have the appropriate products.
@BristolE30 why do you think it'll be harder to get a good match with aerosol? Do you mean more of a match the actual colour of the paint now 30 years on to account for fading or whatever so that it blends in better or to match the original BMW colour? The website that I linked above have the 1990 year getscherblau/glacier blue that I need.
Again thank you all for your inputs!! I know more now than I did when I made the thread but I can't say it's made my choice any easier or pointed me definitively in one direction over another hahah

but I'm getting there. Just don't want to screw up the car