Hey guys! Just a little stuck & looking for some wizardry or good advice for what I see as abit of a different problem to other treads I've seen, I'll try be as descriptive as possible.
After leaving my E30 standing for afew months, I went back to it to get it out, opened the passanger door with the key, opened bonnet, closed the passanger door & connected up jumper cables to the terminals. The car instantly deadlocked itself. & Set off the boot locking solenoid buzzing, so I knew that was knackered & drilled out my boot lock to get into the boot to replace.. However upon replacing the new (second hand) part was either faulty.. or it still wants to stay deadlocked (doesn't spin or make a noise, old one still does spin).. this isn't my main worry though.
My main aim is to get inside the cabin. I still have access to under the bonnet & the boot.
Things I've tried are; new key cut from BMW, lubricating the locks (wd40 & 3in1), disconnecting & reconnecting battery & checked related fuses.
The drivers door lock rotates 90° counter clockwise & back again, but no further to unlock, same outcome with or without battery connected. Passanger door won't turn either way, save a little wiggle, also wiggling the locking pin on both doors.
The car is 2door so can't get into the cab from the boot also. I'm hoping I don't have to smash a window, but this option seems to be getting more & more likely. Do I have any other option? Tia, Joe.
Central (dead)locking
Moderator: martauto
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BenHar
- E30 Zone Addict
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- Location: Reigate, Surrey
You could remove the windscreen.
Ben
Ben
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Sorry to be the barer of bad news, but what has happened to your car is quite common, although most aren't there to witness it happening.
Chances are that the sill drains on the driver's side are blocked, and while parked up water has entered the sill (as it is designed to do), couldn't escape, and flooded the locking ECU.
When the ECU is flooded it tends to power the lock motors continuously instead of just giving them the short 12 volt pulse they are designed for, which result in them burning out and jamming solid. The locks aren't dead locked, but the effect is the same. There isn't actually an electric dead lock on the driver's door, but with the lock motor solid, it's not going to unlock on the key.
You say your car is a 2 door, so you can't get into the cab from the boot? It's only the cabriolet that doesn't have the ski panel. If you remove fibre board from the front of the boot, you will see the oval metal panel blocking the hole, which is held in place by a few small bits of unstamped metal. You will now be faced by the rear of the back seat, which you'll have to force away at the top by lifting and pushing. It's secured by a tab at the bottom on each side screwed to the body, and hooks over at the top.
I've never had to do this, but I think it could be forced off without permanent damage.
Once in the car unbolt the front seats, and remove the door cards. The lock motors are held by two screws, just covered by the door card about half way up the rear edge. Unscrew the lock motors completely, so that the lock motors swing free on the operating rods, and you should be able to unlock with the key.
Alternative way in is to remove the windscreen, as BenHar says. Pull out the locking strip, clamp a couple of suction cups made for the job onto the screen and pull. Two people required. Screen is easy to fit back in again, although a special tool is required to refit the locking strip without drama.
Chances are that the sill drains on the driver's side are blocked, and while parked up water has entered the sill (as it is designed to do), couldn't escape, and flooded the locking ECU.
When the ECU is flooded it tends to power the lock motors continuously instead of just giving them the short 12 volt pulse they are designed for, which result in them burning out and jamming solid. The locks aren't dead locked, but the effect is the same. There isn't actually an electric dead lock on the driver's door, but with the lock motor solid, it's not going to unlock on the key.
You say your car is a 2 door, so you can't get into the cab from the boot? It's only the cabriolet that doesn't have the ski panel. If you remove fibre board from the front of the boot, you will see the oval metal panel blocking the hole, which is held in place by a few small bits of unstamped metal. You will now be faced by the rear of the back seat, which you'll have to force away at the top by lifting and pushing. It's secured by a tab at the bottom on each side screwed to the body, and hooks over at the top.
I've never had to do this, but I think it could be forced off without permanent damage.
Once in the car unbolt the front seats, and remove the door cards. The lock motors are held by two screws, just covered by the door card about half way up the rear edge. Unscrew the lock motors completely, so that the lock motors swing free on the operating rods, and you should be able to unlock with the key.
Alternative way in is to remove the windscreen, as BenHar says. Pull out the locking strip, clamp a couple of suction cups made for the job onto the screen and pull. Two people required. Screen is easy to fit back in again, although a special tool is required to refit the locking strip without drama.
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Joe_30
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:00 pm
This is the kind of technical advice I was expecting from the zone, it's somewhat bad news, but atleast I know what's happened now, thankyou for all the detail!
Turns out I do have a ski hatch your right. I'm not sure I'm going to fit through though haha & I can only imagine how much of a pain it could be removing the windscreen just from the outside, although painful, I think I'll go for the smash & replace side window using the cowboy ductape 'safety glass' method.
Next question, anyone got any spare windows hahah.
Turns out I do have a ski hatch your right. I'm not sure I'm going to fit through though haha & I can only imagine how much of a pain it could be removing the windscreen just from the outside, although painful, I think I'll go for the smash & replace side window using the cowboy ductape 'safety glass' method.
Next question, anyone got any spare windows hahah.
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
One of the reasons small children exist is to fit through the ski hatch in E30s. Can't lend you the one I've used in the past because he's now larger than me.
Removing the windscreen is by far your best bet. Pull out the locking strip, turn up the rubber edges all around and introduce lubricant, then concentrate on one top corner to start getting it out.
If you do insist on smashing glass, then make it a door glass, not the rear side glass, which is by far the most difficult to fit. You haven't said what age your car is, but be aware that the tint colour changed from brown to green around '87.
Removing the windscreen is by far your best bet. Pull out the locking strip, turn up the rubber edges all around and introduce lubricant, then concentrate on one top corner to start getting it out.
If you do insist on smashing glass, then make it a door glass, not the rear side glass, which is by far the most difficult to fit. You haven't said what age your car is, but be aware that the tint colour changed from brown to green around '87.
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AuroraMagic
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat May 01, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Highlands, Scotland
Remving the front windscreen glass is in essence 'easy' a cheap diamond wire and bent shaped tool makes it easy. I've swapped front windcreen glass in around 10 minutes! But I had done a few by then and was really in tune with it.
But if it's the original old glass be really careful as you release it ... make sure you have gone all the way around the glass before you attempt to move it. Always hold it towards the rubber surround as you release it ... that way the screen doesn't slip down to the wipers or smash into anything anywhere.
I've always manaed to life the glass off as I've not had the suckers although great if you do!
Use a simple washing up liquid solution, hot or warm water to help remove and install the glass.
I'd do that eveyr time than break a side window.
I did lock myself out of my car once but I had the boot open. I was able to get enough of my through the ski hole and get my hand and a tool to lift up the door side lock. Although I appreciate you have a dead-lock type situation making that a lot harder. But open the rear windows then remove the catch and then you can reach in to the inner car front door far more easily.
But if it's the original old glass be really careful as you release it ... make sure you have gone all the way around the glass before you attempt to move it. Always hold it towards the rubber surround as you release it ... that way the screen doesn't slip down to the wipers or smash into anything anywhere.
I've always manaed to life the glass off as I've not had the suckers although great if you do!
Use a simple washing up liquid solution, hot or warm water to help remove and install the glass.
I'd do that eveyr time than break a side window.
I did lock myself out of my car once but I had the boot open. I was able to get enough of my through the ski hole and get my hand and a tool to lift up the door side lock. Although I appreciate you have a dead-lock type situation making that a lot harder. But open the rear windows then remove the catch and then you can reach in to the inner car front door far more easily.
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Joe_30
- E30 Zone Newbie
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- Joined: Sun Apr 22, 2018 11:00 pm
UPDATE: I couldn't bring myself to smash a window in the end & removed the windscreen, I was shocked how easy it was actually, atleast until the refitting of the locking/moulding strip haha, that was a little tricky! But all sorted now! Thanks for all your advice. Very helpful! 
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member
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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Told you it was easy! So what did you do regarding the locking once you were in?
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AuroraMagic
- E30 Zone Newbie
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Sat May 01, 2010 11:00 pm
- Location: Highlands, Scotland
The strip replacement (if you buy the tool) is dead easy and if you use the warm water with some washing up liquid in it then it'll be fast to zip around as it tucks under the lip. getting in the locking 'bar' is easily done with the tool opening up the lips to get it running up one 'end' and then using a wooden pushing tool (or flat screwdriver -V gently) to gently push it back into place. You could place masking tape on bits to make scratches far less likely!Joe_30 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 28, 2020 5:30 pmUPDATE: I couldn't bring myself to smash a window in the end & removed the windscreen, I was shocked how easy it was actually, atleast until the refitting of the locking/moulding strip haha, that was a little tricky! But all sorted now! Thanks for all your advice. Very helpful!
Delighted you didnt' smash any window (you'll find glass for yrs!) !
