Clutch pedal, no resistance!

[Foe]

Looks gapped on the Zone guide too:

https://www.e30zone.net/e30wiki/index.p ... _Cylinders

Thanks for the reply Moz. That's what I thought, but in the guide, the bolt's are off so that's why there may be a gap?

[Foe]

So apparently gap is fine, as fluid does not go through this section of the slave cylinder, as the pressure pushes it out. There's a rubber boot the rod sits in, which prevents this.
When this rubber perishes, it leaks.

[paultv]

This is correct, the gap allows you to insert a thin metal scribe to measure slave thrust distance whilst it's still on the car. If the distance of travel is less than the prescribed amount it shows air in the system or a failing component.

The idea is to mark the slave actuator pin then remove the slave and measure the distance of travel....from the scratch you've made....

Paul

[Foe]

This is correct, the gap allows you to insert a thin metal scribe to measure slave thrust distance whilst it's still on the car. If the distance of travel is less than the prescribed amount it shows air in the system or a failing component.

The idea is to mark the slave actuator pin then remove the slave and measure the distance of travel....from the scratch you've made....

Paul

Thanks for the detailed reply.
Unfortunately I didn't mark it, just took it off, and bolted the new one on!
I won't know how the bleeding will work until next week.

[paultv]

It's only for an in car test - if you think you have a problem, when fitting both new master and slave, you would only need to check it this way if you have some issue after bleeding -

How was the master cylinder change over??

Paul

[Foe]

I'll do a quick write up tonight after work. Only the removal, as awaiting the reservoir, line and plastic elbow There's definitely some handy hints to share!

[martauto]

I'll do a quick write up tonight after work. Only the removal, as awaiting the reservoir, line and plastic elbow There's definitely some handy hints to share!

This is what we are about, great coms and even better info

Mart.

[paultv]

Just finished switching my master and slave clutch cylinders - I have some pieces of advice:

Get a full set of brake pipe spanners - and a correct bleed nipple spanner.

Put the car front up on ramps - have a good led light.

( Remove the drivers seat, lay on your back with your head under the steering wheel, feet up on the back seat - tools to hand - the two 10mm bolts that hold the MC are a bit tricky to get at,
a brick on the accelerator pedal keeps the bracket and cable out the way of the bolt nearest the bulkhead. )

Drain the system from the end of the master cylinder, place a small ice cream plastic container or whatever - it fits fine under the union, soak then crack the joint and let the fluid out - have tissue and water to rinse any spillage.

Once the MC is empty you can remove the resevoir - leave the flexi tube, it comes out through the car with the old MC.

Under the car crack open the bleed nipple and drain slave into a container.

Once empty undo the flexi to hardline coupling under the car towards the bulkhead - leave the flexi attached to the slave.

Remove the slave cylinder - the top bolt is a bugger - but a universal joint or very long extension bar will get you there.

Remove the slave, clean and transfer the flexi and stump to the new slave - do this on the bench, pay attention the orientation of the tube as once on the car you can't get at the joint.

Re fit the new slave -

A fair amount of silicon spray is very useful for getting the new hose through the feed hole and the rubber grommet which will probably drop off - as well as the end of the new MC through the rubber in the bulkhead.

re fit everything, pay attention the keeping all the unions clean and correctly tightened - use the right tools - BRAKE Spanners are essential or you will get in a right mess.

I bled mine on my own - filled the reservoir - bubbles come out, level drops, refill - pump a while - more air - refill - open the slave with a bit of bleeding tube and a jar - pump a few times till fluid comes out then top up some more if needed - another pump or two you feel resistance, under the car close the bleeder - up top pump and let settle - air trapped normally rises to the top of the system - ie. the resevoir so it kinda self bleeds. Mine was fine after this quick process.

Hope this helps anyone doing this themselves, took me about 3 hours with a beer or two.

Paul

[Foe]

Nice one Paul
I've been in work and not had time to write up

[Contours]

Good write up. I forced the fluid from the slave cylinder back up through the master until it arrives in the reservoir. Used a tube and pump action type oil can. As you say air wants to rise so the bubbles come out the top of the reservoir. Since this eliminates the air from the system, I discovered there was no further bleeding needed. See video

[tiw30]

Fit and bleed the slave cylinder for now and leave the master cylinder for when you are replacing the dashboard, make the job a lot easier if in the near future you end up having too

Sorry answered while on the first page only noticed there was a second page and you have already changed it, Good job