I'm slowly losing the will to continue with this I've a 325 I 1988 with number but I believe linked problems .The car was off the road for over 10 years so I thought I'd treat it to the following hoping that it shouldn't need much else in the future .
New cam belt, water pump etc.
New temperature sensor. New fuel pump , fuel filter , air filter .
Refurbished injectors by injectortune.
New AFM , ICV. plugs, cap, rotor arm, TPS , pressure regulator .
New vacuum pipes from the rocker cover to the throttle body and pressure regulator also a new ICV vacuum pipe.
New AFM rubber boot.
Th problem I have is the car has started to become very hard to start mostly from cold but also at times when hot also a strong smell of petrol is sometimes smelt. I've found it starts better when the pedal is pressed 3/4 way down but as a sealed system I thought that would be unnecessary
When it does idle it can surge and misfire then the idle is slow to settle down.
The revs alter when I remove the oil cap , not so when I remove the dipstick
I spent an hour today replacing the in line fuel filter just to make sure that wasn't blocked by crud but the fuel was clear with no sediment visible. once I replaced it with brand new filter it seemed that had solved it but after about a 20 minute drive it started to display mildly similar symptoms as before ,hence my frustration
I've looked at fault diagnose via the OBD but that looks limited in what it can identify , has anyone suggestions .Thanks
Frustartion idile starting
Moderator: martauto
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Bonymaenjack
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Apologies for my spelling in the title
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Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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Thought it was an intended play on words!
The starting problem is typical of the effects of fuel pooling in the inlet manifold while the car is parked, making the fuel mixture too rich to ignite until cranking the engine has expelled it through the exhaust pipe. Fuel can enter the manifold by a leaking injector, or, less likely, via a failed fuel pressure regulator. You say that you've changed these components, but are falling into the trap of assuming new components are good components - everything follows the 'bath tub' reliability graph.
Stop the car by pulling out fuse 11 (fuel pump) so that there is no residual pressure left when parked, and see if that improves the starting. It will still be slower than normal to start like this, because fuel pressure will have to build from zero first.
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Bonymaenjack
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Thanks Brian , if it is a leaking injector would one failed injector cause these symptoms .? Also driving today it's developed a stall at idle even though I had travelled a few miles and the engine was at normal operating temperature .Sometimes when driving the engine experiences a boost of acceleration which is a bit unnerving
