323i Coupe barn find restoration

[Suprex]

Hi all, moving over from the new members forum.

Just moved to Malaysia and found an abandoned 323i coupe with just 55k on the clock. Traced the owner who has let me have it for beer money as it is covered in dust and has been sitting with the passenger window open for the last 6-7 years untouched.


I love my cars, never had a BMW before, but if you are going to get one, the E30 is the right one to get. I am going to need a lot of help getting this puppy back to life so any hints and tips you can offer would be gratefully received.

http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/danie ... y.jpg.html

http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/danie ... q.jpg.html

Plan so far is to:
Drain fuel and flush with new
Drain oil and change filter
Attempt the whole radiator out timimg chain and water pump replacement (lord help me!)
Sparks out and pour a tablespoon of oil in each hole, leave for a day
crank over manually using the fan for a few rotations and then fire her up.

Let me know if I missed anything as I'd prefer not to kill her off before I get to drive her.

Thanks for your input.

[Sanchez]

.

Let me know if I missed anything as I'd prefer not to kill her off before I get to drive her.

Thanks for your input.

Check the brakes, but the way you have mentioned the rest of the checks, sounds like you know what you are doing and have it under control.

Welcome.

[jonathanyeah]

If it was anything like mine pretty much every rubber fuel hose will be perished and cracked or will crack once you start driving it!

Check the rubber intake boot too.

Make sure you change the fuel filter.

[pianist]

Timing belt not chain

[Speedtouch]

Some air in the tyres might be an idea - perhaps you may need a can of tyre seal gloop if they're not going to seal against the rims...

Definitely change the cambelt.

[Suprex]

Apologies for chain/belt faux pas - other car is a w123 280E with double chain.

Got the seats out and assessing their viability. Pulled the console and polishing up while awaiting the bits to start on the engine. Sourcing parts in Malaysia isn’t as easy as walking into Euro Car Parts.

Jacking up and putting temporary rubber on the wheels, anything that holds air will do for now.

One area of concern is under the steering wheel. Under dash plastic is missing and there is oily fluid on the floor mat - concerning as it has been sitting for 7 years. Looks a little messy under there but would anyone have any theories what I could be looking at? Is it going to be major surgery?

[biffer]

1st. guess, assuming it's a manual-gearbox,is the clutch master-cylinder,which is a small cylindrical jobby that sits directly above where your foot bears on the pedal.

The clutch slave-cylinder mounted on the gearbox would also be due a replacement too.

[Bonymaenjack]

A car standing for as long as your has hasn't done it any favours, so as posted , change all the fluids , you may experience leaks from heater o rings . Gummed up fuel /carburettor jets injectors ,stuck ICV , noisy heater motor. Perished brake cylinder rubbers and I'm sure a load more but it'll be worth it in the end .Good luck

[ah]

323i for the price of a beer,go for it and good luck,by the way what year is it ?

[Suprex]

Clutch master cylinder ay? I’ll read up on that and investigate. Thanks for the pointer.

Year, no idea. I assume somewhere between 82-85 like all 323’s. Don’t know the country of origin either as it could have come direct but most Euro cars were imported on gray market to Malaysia. Possibility it was from Australia as original owner was an architect and left behind 2 BMWs , a Porsche 911 and a Honda Accord - most from Aus according to his son and heir.

I’ll get a chassis number and see what info that throws up and let you know.

[Suprex]

Ok, just looked up what a clutch master cylinder looks like and I can report that I found something very much like that sitting on the drivers floor mat when I first opened her up ( along with a few spanners and a screwdriver).

Good work Biffer, looks like that will be one of the first things I’ll attack mechanically then...

[Bonymaenjack]

Ok, just looked up what a clutch master cylinder looks like and I can report that I found something very much like that sitting on the drivers floor mat when I first opened her up ( along with a few spanners and a screwdriver).

Good work Biffer, looks like that will be one of the first things I’ll attack mechanically then...

I've just replaced mine due to the same reasons , standing for 11 years , not the most comfortable job to attempt but certainly doable even if you're a novice . May I suggest you remove the drivers seat , well worth it for the extra room imo

[Suprex]

All seats are already out - they need a good clean and the carpet is next!

[Suprex]

So I finally got round to attacking the timing belt the last couple of evenings. All has gone well so far up till the 3 drive belts removal part. I know you can just cut the belts but I thought I’d work with the tensioners to understand them which would help when replacing with new belts.

Being a 323i it has the v belts with springless ratchet tensioners. Managed to shear the alternator ratchet teeth in my haste but only slightly so I think it will be ok. The water pump tensioner was simple and both belts are off. Unfortunately I can’t seem to get any descent information on the AC pump belt and I can’t locate the tensioner. Is anyone able to point me in the right direction? An image would be most handy.

Also am I right in thinking I don’t need to remove my distributor and rotor as unlike images in the guides mine is tucked under the air filter box to the right of the engine far behind the belts? I have the top cover of the timing belt off with the distributor in situ.

Another question is regarding the solidified coolant in my hoses and around the entire system. The pipes were blocked with solid crystalline white/blue funk all the way into the engine. What should I do about this? Presumably radiator flush but the engine needs to be functioning for that, no? Pipes are off and easy to clean so I am more concerned with the rad and engine parts.

Finally a lot of the electric plugs have become brittle and snapped in places. Can the connectors be purchased somewhere or does one have to buy whole sections of the loom? I will upload photos soon to give an idea of what I’m on about.

Thanks for any help!

[DHFiS]

Another question is regarding the solidified coolant in my hoses and around the entire system. The pipes were blocked with solid crystalline white/blue funk all the way into the engine. What should I do about this? Presumably radiator flush but the engine needs to be functioning for that, no? Pipes are off and easy to clean so I am more concerned with the rad and engine parts.

I think I would fit a new rad and rinse out the hoses, once the engine is running flush it with water until the water that runs out of the engine it as clear as the water from the tap. Refill with blue coolant.

[Speedtouch]

Probably no need to touch the dizzy, unless you need to alter the ignition timing for modern-day fuel.

Try and reverse-flush the engine block with a hose/jet wash, and maybe use a solution of caustic soda or similar to shift the calcium deposits.

[Suprex]

Thanks for all that - will give it a go.

So update - I have followed the guide here for timing belt change upto removing the upper belt cover and now I am waiting to get the keys to the boot (Thursday) to be have access to the jack and spark plug remover tool before I go any further.

In the meantime I am attacking the non- critical stuff like engine degreasing, cleaning and spraying the hoses and having a go at the interior carpets (seats and console out but I don’t want to remove the door threasholds because apparently they are a bugger to put back). As I cleaned the engine various plastic parts started to snap namely both of the plugs popping up out the top of the coolant housing.

I believe the front plug is the thermo time switch. The plug on the loom side broke and I need to replace. Is there a reference number for this part to buy new or do I have to go to a scrapper to get a second hand plug? Lastly the sensor behind this (the coolant temp switch?) has splitand needs to be replaced. I have looked this part up on google and all images either have one spade connector or another BMW type connector whereas my split one has two spade connectors on the top. Is this normal or do I have to buy a particular type of connector.

Will post images as soon as I am back at a pc.

[Satan]

Stick the last 6 or 7 in a BMW Vin Decoder, it will tell you the model, spec and year/month of manufacture.

https://www.bmwvin.com

[Suprex]

Thanks for that link.

It must have been an early one as it was made in Nov of 1983. Euro spec too.

Good information from the vin including interior code 0151 which will come in handy for the door pockets. They have turned a dull brown from their original blue plastic and I’m looking for a vinyl paint that would bring them back to spec. Any ideas on that?

[Satan]

Check out what colours Rust-Oleum have as I used there black to paint my under dash panel.

https://www.rustoleum.com

[Suprex]

Check out what colours Rust-Oleum have as I used there black to paint my under dash panel.

https://www.rustoleum.com

Thanks for this, just checked and they have no blue. I’ll look out for other brands but pickings over this way are rather slim indeed...

[Satan]

Post up the spec of your car from the VIN Info.

https://www.fabricspray.co.uk/shop/viny ... ray-paint/

The thing is, how hard wearing do you want it to be.

[Satan]

Post up the spec of your car from the VIN Info.

https://www.fabricspray.co.uk/shop/viny ... ray-paint/

The thing is, how hard wearing do you want it to be.

[Suprex]

VIN information:

Type Code 1172
E Series E30 ()
Series 3
Type LIM
Model 323I (EUR)
Steering RL
Doors 2
Engine M20
Displacement 2.30
Power 0
Drive HECK
Transmission MECH
Colour BALTICBLAU METALLIC (178)
Upholstery (0151)
Prod. Date 1983-11-02

Options:
S215A Power steering, rpm-sensitive
S300A Central locking with antitheft system
S311 ELEKTRISCHER BEIFAHRERSPIEGEL
S350A Therm. insulat. glass green
S410A Window lifts, electric, front
S548A Kilometer-calibrated speedometer
S823A Hot-climate version
S850A Dummy-SALAPA

[Suprex]

trying to embed images to give people an idea of progress

[Suprex]

its current state, with top timing belt cover off. plastic bags over alternator and distributer as I was cleaning with degreaser

[Suprex]

The two coolant sensors / switches that I will need to replace: this is the connector that has broken, I believe this is an easy generic BMW connector to replace...



And this is the top of the coolant temp switch that has snapped. Can anyone tell me which part I will need to replace this as the versions on e-bay have differing connectors which is confusing.

[Satan]

Check out realm.com, input the vin number to work out what part numbers are associated with your car.

[Suprex]

Thanks for that link.