Will Slick 50 help to improve the engine performance
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Telecaster
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I was told that Slick 50 could help to improve the engine's performance, especially for those old engine that used over 10years. I would like to know if it really work? Any harm with the additive?
I've heard that the additive would block the tiny oil tunnel, is it true?
I've heard that the additive would block the tiny oil tunnel, is it true?
A bimmer beginner
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kidsinister
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Gouki
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if your looking to restore some of that lost power, try http://www.restoreusa.com/ from the reviews i've seen it seems to be better than putting that Slick 50 crap!

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Brianmoooore
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I assume you have a BMW engine. BMW don't do "old" engines.
10 year old BMW engine = 2 year old F**d or jap engine.
10 year old BMW engine = 2 year old F**d or jap engine.
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Turbo-Brown
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For my money, when I've spent best part of Ԛ£40 on 5 litres of Silkolene Pro-S, if it needed gimmiky additives I'd be pretty pissed off.
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dsio
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Seeing a few old M10 engined 60s and 70s BMWs cruising through my city a few months ago, its hard to argue with that, and you would have a little trouble keeping up with them in your average city car.Brianmoooore wrote:I assume you have a BMW engine. BMW don't do "old" engines.
10 year old BMW engine = 2 year old F**d or jap engine.
Not many 40 year old cars can go on Australian cross country tours without a breakdown crew. Certainly the Aston Martin / Jaguar car clubs don't do interstate trips.
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Telecaster
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Thanks for all your comments.
In fact, my m20 engine runs well, but I just see if anything could help to improve further.
I am just a beginner for bimmer, especially the classic E30.
In fact, my m20 engine runs well, but I just see if anything could help to improve further.
I am just a beginner for bimmer, especially the classic E30.
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Widge
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I think regular oil changes is probably better than that stuff. Just look after it now oyu have got it,.
Does anyone know anything about that water wetter stuff?
Does anyone know anything about that water wetter stuff?
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Motorhole
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If its so effective, then why don't oil manufacturers use it in their oils anyway? Just ask yourself that after reading the ads...nothing beats regular oil changes with a good quality oil. I used Mobil 1 15w/50 motorsport formula on my 320i. Expensive, but good stuff!
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Gwynleym10
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Many oils to have "cleaners" and other chemicals in them... so does petrol for that matter.If its so effective, then why don't oil manufacturers use it in their oils anyway?
Slick 50 etc is pointless, especially in this country where our fuel/oil general is of better standards than most.
To note, the US government took Slick 50 to court over false advertising, if you type slick 50 into google and scroll down you'll find info on it.
Isn't this redline stuff? Remeber lost of the people on the old BEN used to like it, apperently does make a difference. However, i think its for use if your racing (straining) your engine or/and live in a hot country. If you have overheating issues..then I doubt it would make any difference.Does anyone know anything about that water wetter stuff?
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dsio
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I have used Redline Water Wetter in my computer CPU/GPU water cooling system for quite some time, and the stuff is effective. From a computer perspective, it prevents the corrosion that occurs when you use a copper waterblock with an aluminium radiator, controls algae / sludge, and seams to improve temperatures.
Even in all copper or all aluminium systems it reduces corrision greatly and seams to improve temps.
Mind you, I now use pure ethanol, which is better than anything. Doubt it would work in a car engine though.
Even in all copper or all aluminium systems it reduces corrision greatly and seams to improve temps.
Mind you, I now use pure ethanol, which is better than anything. Doubt it would work in a car engine though.
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Gwynleym10
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But normal anti-freeze does (well supossed to) do all of this....which is ethanol basedI have used Redline Water Wetter in my computer CPU/GPU water cooling system for quite some time, and the stuff is effective. From a computer perspective, it prevents the corrosion that occurs when you use a copper waterblock with an aluminium radiator, controls algae / sludge, and seams to improve temperatures.
Even in all copper or all aluminium systems it reduces corrision greatly and seams to improve temps.
Mind you, I now use pure ethanol, which is better than anything. Doubt it would work in a car engine though.
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dsio
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More or less, yea. Redline is particularly good quality stuff though. Thats about all there is to it.
I was having corrosion problems using the anti-freeze mix that I bought where I got my water pump, but it grew algae and slime, with a fair bit of corrosion as well.
After the long and painfull job that is de-sliming my rad and block, the redline proved far better at keeping it that way. The ethanol reduced any corrosion or growth to nil though.
I could put the anti freeze problem down to it being cheap shoddy stuff to start with, but I do get the feeling the redline mix was a fair bit better.
I was having corrosion problems using the anti-freeze mix that I bought where I got my water pump, but it grew algae and slime, with a fair bit of corrosion as well.
After the long and painfull job that is de-sliming my rad and block, the redline proved far better at keeping it that way. The ethanol reduced any corrosion or growth to nil though.
I could put the anti freeze problem down to it being cheap shoddy stuff to start with, but I do get the feeling the redline mix was a fair bit better.
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Moofles
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lol, doesn't help when the m20 is way older than the car! to be fair though, i agree that a 1970 m20 is probably as good (maybe even better!Brianmoooore wrote:I assume you have a BMW engine. BMW don't do "old" engines.
10 year old BMW engine = 2 year old F**d or jap engine.
'08 GSX-R750, '02 CBR600F, and a beast of a Focus 1.8LX...
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dsio
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The key there is <unmolested> japanese engines. Given a long enough time frame, someone always finds a way to do something stupid to get "free" power out of every jap engine.
You see those mint 1990ish RX7s with good lives, and have to think how long it will take their new 20 year old owner to blow it to bits with bolt ons.
And then there's the Supra / Skyline crew. Try buying one of the things.
"Is it stock?"
>"Yeap, completely factory."
"The exhaust is 5 inches wide..."
>"Yea.... the heat does that"
"Is it chipped?"
>"No. Well, yes. But only for the fuel economy"
"Is it lowered?"
>"Well, I don't know how high its meant to be, but I get over most speed bumps, so I think so."
"Has it been thrashed?"
>"Umm, Na.. na... I just use it as a show car, I love it too much to do that."
"So those number 11s on your driveway are from what"
>"They're racing stripes. Makes my driveway go faster"
You see those mint 1990ish RX7s with good lives, and have to think how long it will take their new 20 year old owner to blow it to bits with bolt ons.
And then there's the Supra / Skyline crew. Try buying one of the things.
"Is it stock?"
>"Yeap, completely factory."
"The exhaust is 5 inches wide..."
>"Yea.... the heat does that"
"Is it chipped?"
>"No. Well, yes. But only for the fuel economy"
"Is it lowered?"
>"Well, I don't know how high its meant to be, but I get over most speed bumps, so I think so."
"Has it been thrashed?"
>"Umm, Na.. na... I just use it as a show car, I love it too much to do that."
"So those number 11s on your driveway are from what"
>"They're racing stripes. Makes my driveway go faster"
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Moofles
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to be fair though, that sort of stuff only applies when you tune to very high levels, e.g. on a skyline 500hp doesn't dramatically reduce reliability from standard (which is 280hp+ anyway).
However...bmw don't design engines for power, they design them for reliability and smoothness, so saying jap engines are more unreliable is probably just about justified - i've seen they require rebuilds more often in general than a bmw engine.
but that doesn't make it bad. you just have to decide what you want, cos for the highest power you will probably end up going jap, or alternatively turning your engine into a jap engine by whacking on turbos and things that will ultimately, if you tune it high enough, lead to earlier rebuilds. if you want moderate power, stick with bmw n/a engines.
However...bmw don't design engines for power, they design them for reliability and smoothness, so saying jap engines are more unreliable is probably just about justified - i've seen they require rebuilds more often in general than a bmw engine.
but that doesn't make it bad. you just have to decide what you want, cos for the highest power you will probably end up going jap, or alternatively turning your engine into a jap engine by whacking on turbos and things that will ultimately, if you tune it high enough, lead to earlier rebuilds. if you want moderate power, stick with bmw n/a engines.
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Widge
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Yeah, you say BMW don't build engines for power. Look at the engine in the current M3, 333bhp from a 3.2ltr. That's over 100 bhp per Ltr, which is more than most Ferrari engines, and a lot more pwerful per litre than most Jap engines without turbos.
Havin g said that, the new 320's engine only produces 150bhp, only 10bhp more than a 320 of E30 age.
I think BMW a masters of the whole BHP/Reliability compromise, and know how to engineer an engine for one the other or both.
Havin g said that, the new 320's engine only produces 150bhp, only 10bhp more than a 320 of E30 age.
I think BMW a masters of the whole BHP/Reliability compromise, and know how to engineer an engine for one the other or both.
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Moofles
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300+ hp is a decent wedge of power but by no means a competitor to jap turbo engines (try 400hp+/litre there). No point comparing it to jap n/a engines (though these can be farily good, see s2000/CTR). The whole point about japs building engines for power is that they do it through turbos...
i would agree (if this is what you're actually saying) that bmw builds the highest hp engines that you could class under the "reliable" flag.
p.s. the new 320 makes 170 doesn't it? but it's also a 2.2....
i would agree (if this is what you're actually saying) that bmw builds the highest hp engines that you could class under the "reliable" flag.
p.s. the new 320 makes 170 doesn't it? but it's also a 2.2....
'08 GSX-R750, '02 CBR600F, and a beast of a Focus 1.8LX...
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Lordschleife
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Jap honda crx's had 160bhp out of a 1.6 at the start of the 90's ie. 100bhp/litre and thats non-turboWidge wrote:Yeah, you say BMW don't build engines for power. Look at the engine in the current M3, 333bhp from a 3.2ltr. That's over 100 bhp per Ltr, which is more than most Ferrari engines, and a lot more pwerful per litre than most Jap engines without turbos.
Havin g said that, the new 320's engine only produces 150bhp, only 10bhp more than a 320 of E30 age.
I think BMW a masters of the whole BHP/Reliability compromise, and know how to engineer an engine for one the other or both.
Makes the M42 in my iS look a bit shit
You can thrash those things to the redline all day long and they wont skip a beat. If anything I'd say normaly aspirated jap engines are more reliable than BMW engines
Look at all the problems BMW have had with their later M engines.
It's only the turbo jap engines that are shite for reliability
Cheers,
Robin

Robin



