My toy, P38 Range Rover 4.6HSE Top end gasket set arrived.

[martauto]

Have a closer look and see what type of adjustment you have for the valve clearences and when you turned the engine over how much oil did you see at the top end ?

Mart.

[martauto]

If you clean the head in situ you will introduce all that crap back into the system.

Mart.

[Jesus325iTouring]

Perhaps a case of in for a penny in for a pound. This car is a keeper so maybe I should just go for it, heads off, full rebuild.
I can't say how much oil moved around when I turned it over as it was only a few seconds as the battery was nearly flat, just enough to see the rockers moving.
As for servicing before I owned it, I have no history, but 12 owners! Pretty good chance it hasn't seen many oil changes, they say every 3k on the V8. This clearly hasn't had that.

[martauto]

I would go definately with 3k and strip the bugger down to it` s ball`s and then you will know it is right !!
Keep in touch with this mate.

Mart.

[Jesus325iTouring]

I fully intend too Mart, like I said, I love the beast and plan on keeping it so may as well do it right. Frustrating though as I just want to go out and play with it! Still, fix it properly now and I guess it will provide many years of fun.

[Speedtouch]

Snag with removing the heads, is that you may disturb the liners and open up a whole new can of worms...

[Jesus325iTouring]

I would like to hope not Maurice

[B7]

JEEEEEEZUS!!!!!!. How you doing?

Just seen this, not logged in for many moons.

I did a head job on a 2001 Y 4.6 P38 a couple of years ago. It had 190k up and was puffing out the manifold side of the head gasket on the right hand bank. On removal, it had also burnt a path from the front cylinder to the second one back! It was basically running on 6 as both cylinders had naff all compression! Once built, it ran like a watch and was back to full power. It had an LPG conversion and we think, as they run slightly hotter, thats what did it. But it hadn't done bad for 190k!!!

I've not read all the thread but these are really pretty basic shit. Get stuck in and it's not as daunting as it seems. Yes skimming is essential I would say. The only issue we had was that we somehow swapped the left hand banks coil pack plug with the idle control valve. So it only ran on 4! But it still bloody ran! Once we googled it, it's a common mistake by all accounts. Only Rover would make 2 plugs the same fit, for two completely different components!

Get stuck in lad.

[Jesus325iTouring]

Its Trevor back in the house! How ya doing China??

Its interesting you say "its not as daunting as it seems" because I said the same to my missus. Bear in mind I haven't ever really tackled any serious engine work, opening the bonnet on the Range Rover I thought to myself, can I really do this?? But once started, following a very good manual I have, labeling everything, things start to become more clear.

Fingers crossed I will end up with engine running on all 8

Nice to hear from you too

[martauto]

Yes skimming is essential I would say.

I will show my ignorance here.
Is this engine an all ally block and heads ? I`ts been soooo many years I cant remember.
So lets assume it is, then skim the heads by all means but what about the block??
And ally should be fly cut not ground to achieve the best results by some one who not only knows HOW to do it, but what FINISH is required as well.

Mart.

[Jesus325iTouring]

Yes it is mart. Have watched some intersting things on Youtube regarding skimming DIY, however, a local place does it for £40 per head, which is probably the way to go.

They look like they know what they are doing.

http://www.performanceheadengineering.co.uk/

[martauto]

What about the block ? is this likely to need doing?

They say this is from £45 per head but dont mention vat.
They also are using a system called lumsden grinding which may look the part but I dought it will achieve 0.01mm surface finish and the square/flatness of the finished article will not be to this tolerance.
I may be talking shite so have a look around mate, all that glitters......

Mart.

[Jesus325iTouring]

At this stage, the block will be what it will be, it will get whatever cleaning up I can achieve but i'm not about to pull the engine out as that will change everything in terms of work, money etc. Top end job for now and hope for the best, many have had success with this.

[martauto]

I only asked because I didnt know if this had to be done and yes, you are very correct in managing the cost and time involved .
What are your plans to clean the inside of the block now with the situation it is in because this could come in handy for alot of guys on the forum?
Nice engine to do this on as well !! and we will need some pics . lol

Mart.

[Jesus325iTouring]

I am not sure yet, but will just address tasks in order. 1st job will be sorting the heads and go from there. And yes, I do like my V8's so I have perhaps more enthusiasm to tackle this.

Many pics to come, and many tales of woe quite possibly, like getting the exhaust heatshields and manifolds off, i am lead to believe these can be a PITA, that said, I came across many loose bolts (and a couple of spark plugs) all ready, wouldn't that be handy to have a few more??

[B7]

From what I learnt and was told from way back? This has not overheated (unless I've missed something in the thread) and therefore, as long as the correct loosening sequence has been followed, it's doubtful the heads are that far out. Skimming is only a matter of course to ensure things are as good as can be. Maybe skimming is the wrong word here and we should use the phase "faced off" as they only really need a clean up.

Re the block? It's a far more substantial lump that is taller than it is long whereas the head is a separate casting that is longer than it is thick. Warping of the block is therefore far less likely than a head. But as this has not overheated, it's not that critical.

As for grinding or machining? Simons (Si13) dad has been in the game for donkeys. He uses grinding to face all heads and I took one to be pressure tested and my machine guy commented that actually, it's one of the best finishes he'd seen.

It's horses for courses and as long as the machine shop is a good reputable company, then just leave it to them.

**** These are only my thoughts and I cannot be held responsible for any f u ck ups by Jesus

[Jesus325iTouring]

Had to laugh at the last line Trev, don't worry, I won't blame you for anything!

Re Over heating, I will quote myself here from earlier in the thread

Drama number 1)

Went for a drive and decided to follow the Ridgeway, middle of the summer so most sections open. Now i am a plod along green laner, we all enjoy the sights and scenery of the countryside not just driving flat out out down tracks so don't drive much more than 10 mph on average. However, this particular day was boiling hot, obviously the aircon doesn't work (probably just needs a regass...yeah right!) and we were happily driving along when I noticed my temp gauge bending into the red, stopped and yep, boiling over like a bastard. Shit. Did not have spare water with me. So, we had a picnic and left the RR to cool down, the only fluid I had was orange squash, so poured all this in. It didn't really work. We managed to get about 4 miles on it but was boiling over again. In short, managed to find a layby and my boy and I set off to find a field with sheep, find sheep, find a Welshman, well ok maybe not the Welshman but we did find a water trough.
Armed with several litres of water I filled it back up, uopn starting it again, the starter motor solenoid got stuck, few strikes with a knocking tool soon had it turning again. So we set off again, managed about another 3 or 4 miles and it boiled over again. Now i am thinking I have blown head gaskets or done some serious damage, its sounded terrible. Then just had to abandon it in another layby and get a taxi home, which proved difficult at 4 pm on Fathers Day.
Returned later in the evening when the engine was stone cold and just got home as it was boiling up again.
After a bit of research (thinking the engine will never run again) I checked a known over heating cause, blocked breather running into the head tank. And yes, there it was, a small blob of blue gasket sealant blocking said tube. This had came from the new water pump that was fitted shortly before I bought it.
Filled the coolant back up, turned the key and it fired right back up like nothing had happened, and hasn't overheated since.

[B7]

Ah. Apologies, bad move to log in after an age and go straight to the last page!

So it's got pretty hot but hasn't over heated again? How many miles has it covered after this event?

A steel straight edge across the block with some feeler gauges, see what you find. Same on the heads. I still say it's going to be the heads that warp first before the block faces.

But a good skimming and pressure test of the heads is going to be needed for sure. My money is on, get the head work done, a good quality gasket set. reassemble spotlessly clean and she'll run like new. These are a tough old engine. TVR / morgan / all and sundry didn't choose them and tune them for nowt.

[Jesus325iTouring]

No its been good as gold since that incident, it hasn't covered many miles (but has been used a lot) as it only goes out Sundays to tear up the British conuntryside, but it is usually slow driving with very little airflow so the cooling system has to do all the cooling (as opposed to lots of through the grill cooling if that makes sense). It always sits on half and doesn't move.
From what i have also read they can take quite a lot abuse. Hopefully I will have the heads off this week so a bit more will become obvious.
Cheers Trev.

PS What you been up to??

[martauto]

A steel straight edge across the block with some feeler gauges, see what you find. Same on the heads. I still say it's going to be the heads that warp first before the block faces.

Fully agree with this but would like to know what is acceptable in the way of " feeler gaps" in the heads and the blocks. Just curoius.
What is the major deviation one of the heads can stand ?

Mart.

[Jesus325iTouring]

I'll use Gripfill

[martauto]

I'll use Gripfill

Mart.

[Satan]

I'll use Gripfill

Not like you to waste money...........

[Jesus325iTouring]

Only the best for cars Stefan

[B7]

No its been good as gold since that incident, it hasn't covered many miles (but has been used a lot) as it only goes out Sundays to tear up the British conuntryside, but it is usually slow driving with very little airflow so the cooling system has to do all the cooling (as opposed to lots of through the grill cooling if that makes sense). It always sits on half and doesn't move.
From what i have also read they can take quite a lot abuse. Hopefully I will have the heads off this week so a bit more will become obvious.
Cheers Trev.

PS What you been up to??

Sounds like the overheating hasn't done the damage. I think a head skim and PT and you'll be back wrecking the countryside.

Been ticking along. Sold the convertible to Barry hence I've not been on here. Hadn't used it since 2011 and if I'm honest, hadn't missed it either. So moved on. It's a lot quieter in here than it was!!

[Jesus325iTouring]

Moved on then, I enjoyed my E30 ownership, but like you I don't miss it and have new toys to play with (or fix in the above case) Nothing French in my drive at the moment, sold my 306 I had sat in the drive last year for a little profit. You still buying & fragging scrap? Take a look at this thread, there is a little something you'll like........

http://www.e30zone.net/modules.php?name ... c&t=275399

[Jesus325iTouring]

Bit of a delay, had some family problems come out of nowhere, however today managed some time to spin some spanners.
Got the head off, all straight forward except the manifold heat shield. the bolts were a nightmare and I was left with no option but to "reshape" it a little to get to the manifold bolts.
Lifted off the head an found the proble, didn't take long to spot it.........

Head.......


Block......


The problem....



All in all, pleased to find this.

Bores from what I can see look good, no borewash from potential cracks, no evident scoring either. Time for the rebuild to start now.

[Speedtouch]

Looks like a nice, easy fix. Wonder what caused the HG to blow like that?

[Satan]

Looks like a nice, easy fix. Wonder what caused the HG to blow like that?

Jesus abusing the cheap car that he had bought I believe Dr Watson..........

[Jesus325iTouring]

I am pretty sure I know how, it had started to "chuff" a little a few weeks before MOT( I guess just worn out), when it went for MOT I know they gave it a foot full of revs to get it to pass its emissions test, I only ever potter about at 1500 as its a really lazy engine. It would probably have lasted a bit longer with me driving just like this, the 6000 plus at MOT just finished it off early.

[aimlessrock]

Better you found it now than it leaving you stranded. You planning on getting head pressure tested Rog?

[maxfield]

Have never seen a headgasket fail like that!

I’m assuming that must be a know hot spot around the head.

[Jesus325iTouring]

Better you found it now than it leaving you stranded. You planning on getting head pressure tested Rog?

It did leave me and family stranded, in sub zero temperatures when it snowed!

Mind, I was only half a mile from home so went and got another car

I will get it tested, or there are home tests one can do to check for leaks and levels etc. I should just ship it to my local head place for checks of course

Jamie, most Rover V8's seem to blow out at the manifold side towards the back, mine blew into the valley

[Satan]

Hopefully it will be a cheap fix, the worst thing about it is the nagging wife and the "I told you it'll be trouble" on repeat like a broken record..........

[Jesus325iTouring]

Hopefully it will be a cheap fix, the worst thing about it is the nagging wife and the "I told you it'll be trouble" on repeat like a broken record..........

I have a very understanding wife Stefan