5 thou rev limit ???

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craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:08 pm

I'v just done an engine change, (2.5)
and the rev limiter is at 5grand :? does anybody know why this is?

the car idles spot on and rev's freely but only up to 5, i changed the ecu and the problem was just the same,

can anyone shed any light?
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Dan318-is
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:09 pm

is it an auto?
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stevetigger
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:10 pm

is it a 525e?
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:10 pm

eta engine??
craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:12 pm

nope its not an auto,

and this one is just a 325i
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Dan318-is
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:13 pm

Some wiring must have gone wrong i think

does it actually bounce of the limiter or does it just not go any higher?
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:15 pm

318-is wrote:Some wiring must have gone wrong i think

does it actually bounce of the limiter or does it just not go any higher?
it just sound's like its hitting the limiter, and goes no higher than 5 at all

:mad:
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Dan318-is
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:18 pm

hmm :?

A weird one!!
craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:41 pm

Right, i'v just pulled the ecu out, and disconected the battery, so i'll see what it's like in an hour or so...........
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:45 pm

sounds to me like your throttle position switch on the throttle body isnt set right,it lets the fuel/air in in 2 stages,first when you touch the accelerator,then again at about 80% open throttle,if your throttle position switch isnt correct then it wont let more in at 80%,hence,no fuel air,seems like limiter,but isnt! call me if you want help setting it,07799817972,cheers

Tel
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:54 pm

cheers tel,
but the engine was running perfectly before the change over, which is why im stumped, iv just read a couple of peoples threds that had the same problem, which is why iv took the ecu out pulled the chip out of it, and disconected the battery,

on the throttle side of things im sure thats set correctly, a slight clicking when opend??? stamp on the throttle, no hesitation straight up to 5, evan gently on the throttle, 5 grand no further,

is there a diffrent way of setting the tps, other than just turning it and making sure the "click" is there?
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:49 pm

yes mate,if you have a muti meter you can set it properly,and its easy to do!
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 8:34 pm

Sure it's not the tacho under reading ?
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 9:43 pm

Craig, not much help, I know, but I've got the same problem with mine. It's sweet as up to 5750 then dies until the revs drop, then it's clean again until next time.
The only running problem I've got is cold starting, it's a b1tch. .....And it's hunting until it gets warm.
I'm sure it's not the tacho under-reading.
I've tried re-setting the ECU, and adjusting the TPS. I even got a different ECU and it's still the same.
I think it's time for a diagnostic, when I can find the time.
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craigieeb
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Post Fri Feb 10, 2006 10:11 pm

right, so iv just put everything back together,

let it sit for a few min's, idle fine, no hunting, drop/rise in revs,

let it get warm, and took it up the revs, seems to have moved the "rev limit"
from 5..... to 6 :? ??????????!!!!!

it has defonatly got more gut's so i dont think the tacho is buggerd?

and now it's getting too cold and too late to be messing on in the freeezing cold on the car so im going to attack it tomorow
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 12:16 am

Could it be that the TPS isn't giving a WOT signal to the ECU ?.

Worthwhile checking it out with a multimeter.

Or double check that the fuel delivery/return hoses are in the correct place.

Cheers,

Iain T
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craigieeb
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 12:23 am

seem's to be the thing to check out,
as it's now been mentiond a couple of times, i'll get the multi meter out and see if i can remember how to use the thing,

what sort of signal reading should i be looking at?

cheers : )

**edit** fuel pipes are defonatly on the right way.
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 12:31 am

I think 6k is fine, will make your engine last longer. You dont need to rev past about 5.5k for best performance
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 12:40 am

stevetigger wrote:I think 6k is fine, will make your engine last longer. You dont need to rev past about 5.5k for best performance
i hear what your saying, but,

if the car isn't reving properly like it should, there is something a miss,
better to get ontop of it now before things go drasticly wrong.
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:11 am

Templ8e30 wrote:Or double check that the fuel delivery/return hoses are in the correct place.

Cheers,

Iain T
I had that thought. I just checked mine and they won't go the wrong way 'round, the bottom one's too short to go on the top.
Bugger! More head scratching here.
I've tried another TPS on mine which I know was working fine. It made no difference.
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:25 am

Craig, I'm sorry for hijacking your thread Dude but...........
Can someone explain to an electrical numbskull how to set the TPS with a multi-meter?
I've got a meter, but have only ever used it for checking battery/alternator voltage.
I'm figuring that as Craig and I both have the same symptom, we ought to be going through the tracing process "together".
TIA
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craigieeb
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 2:19 pm

hijack away stu, i dont mind at all mate, if we both have the same problem the it's best to keep it in the same thread,

update on mine,


:x i checked all the conections, pulse sensor etc etc, all fine, tps connector, nice and clean, started the car, and reved it up, and it only went to 5.5 this time??

whats going on, i think i have gremlins lurking under my bonnet man :?
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 2:40 pm

Stuart, have you tried disconnecting your ecu/battery for a while??
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 3:07 pm

johnl320 wrote:Stuart, have you tried disconnecting your ecu/battery for a while??
john
I've done it quite a few times, most recently last weekend when it was disconnected for over 24 hours.
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:27 pm

to check your TPS you have to disconnect the plug to it,you should have three pins.you do not need the ignition on. now set your multimeter to the soundwave sign,touch the two probes together and it should beep,meaning you have made a circuit. now put one probe on the middle pin on the TPS and one on the right pin,it shouldnt beep,open the throttle just a tad and it should beep,this is where it gets the signal for stage one of fuel/air,if it doesnt beep loosen the two screws and pivot the TPS until it does beep just after you move the throttle. now to check that the second stage is fine put one probe on the middle pin and one on the left pin,should beep at about 80-85% open throttle,if it doesnt then its probably knackered,but if youve set the first stage right the second stage shoud be pretty close! if it beeps on the middle one and the right pin before you move the throttle at all,this means stage one fuel/air is permanently on and needs adjusting to suit,hope this helps,

Tel
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:35 pm

telski789 wrote:to check your TPS you have to disconnect the plug to it,you should have three pins.you do not need the ignition on. now set your multimeter to the soundwave sign,touch the two probes together and it should beep,meaning you have made a circuit. now put one probe on the middle pin on the TPS and one on the right pin,it shouldnt beep,open the throttle just a tad and it should beep,this is where it gets the signal for stage one of fuel/air,if it doesnt beep loosen the two screws and pivot the TPS until it does beep just after you move the throttle. now to check that the second stage is fine put one probe on the middle pin and one on the left pin,should beep at about 80-85% open throttle,if it doesnt then its probably knackered,but if youve set the first stage right the second stage shoud be pretty close! if it beeps on the middle one and the right pin before you move the throttle at all,this means stage one fuel/air is permanently on and needs adjusting to suit,hope this helps,

Tel
Clear as mud Tel, but thanks for your time anyway! :cheers:
I guess I'll just have to take it for a diagnostic.
Electronic engine management sucks - give me a proper distributor and mechanical injection anyday!
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:56 pm

oh well,i tried!
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 8:45 pm

telski789 wrote: now put one probe on the middle pin on the TPS and one on the right pin,it shouldnt beep,open the throttle just a tad and it should beep
You're going to confuse a few people with this one,telski789. TPS is closed when the throttle is closed, and opens just off the stop.
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:14 pm

telski789 wrote:to check your TPS you have to disconnect the plug to it,you should have three pins.you do not need the ignition on. now set your multimeter to the soundwave sign,touch the two probes together and it should beep,meaning you have made a circuit. now put one probe on the middle pin on the TPS and one on the right pin,it shouldnt beep,open the throttle just a tad and it should beep,this is where it gets the signal for stage one of fuel/air,if it doesnt beep loosen the two screws and pivot the TPS until it does beep just after you move the throttle. now to check that the second stage is fine put one probe on the middle pin and one on the left pin,should beep at about 80-85% open throttle,if it doesnt then its probably knackered,but if youve set the first stage right the second stage shoud be pretty close! if it beeps on the middle one and the right pin before you move the throttle at all,this means stage one fuel/air is permanently on and needs adjusting to suit,hope this helps,

Tel

Tel, spot on mate, that has worked a treat, i must of knocked the TPS when moving the head around while off the bottom, thats the only thing i can think of for it going out so much, now all is fine and goes all the way thru the rev range

thank's mate, :cool: :cheers:

stu it's easy, try it as tel has said and if all else fails give me a shout and i'll give it a go for you mate,

it's took me 3 hours to post this as im tending to a sick missus :roll:
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:18 pm

Craig, I'm glad you're sorted Dude. I'll have a go at mine again, probably Monday.
Hope nothing too serious wrong with Your Lass.
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:19 pm

Brianmoooore wrote:
telski789 wrote: now put one probe on the middle pin on the TPS and one on the right pin,it shouldnt beep,open the throttle just a tad and it should beep
You're going to confuse a few people with this one,telski789. TPS is closed when the throttle is closed, and opens just off the stop.
your right brian,
i knew the beep/click should be just as the flap opens, but the info helped me out no end
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 11:02 pm

hi,at least it helped someone! anyway,the tps is in 2 stages! not one! hence 3 pins! glad to be of assistance!

Tel
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 11:05 pm

telski789 wrote:hi,at least it helped someone! anyway,the tps is in 2 stages! not one! hence 3 pins! glad to be of assistance!

Tel
It might help me yet, I just need to get my head 'round it!!
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Post Sat Feb 11, 2006 11:29 pm

I know theres some sensor or whatnot on the peugeot 205's that works if connected both ways round, but if connected the wrong way, the engine wil only rev to 4000rpm. I'll need to dig out the relevant issue of PPC to find out what though...whatch this space!
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Post Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:26 am

telski789 wrote:hi,at least it helped someone! anyway,the tps is in 2 stages! not one! hence 3 pins! glad to be of assistance!

Tel
One is a earth.

Andrew