hi guys, the engine in my 1990 316 gave up last night and finally needs replacing! Obviously a straight swap is very simple (assuming i can find another 316 lump) but wondered if it was a good opportunity to put a bigger engine in...
Is the 316 simple to upgrade the engine, or will I need to consider new hubs etc...?
I only ask as i bought a set of coilovers for it a few years ago and remember i had to buy a specific set due to the tiny hubs on the 316.
Any advice appreciated!
316i engine dead
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Brianmoooore
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What do you mean by "gave up" , and do you mean a 316 or a 316i? (Big difference!)
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Jo3ly
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Bottom end has gone. It’s a 316i
Last edited by Jo3ly on Sat Jan 13, 2018 11:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Brianmoooore
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M40B16 then. Very unusual for one to fail, unless the hidden bolts that hold the upper and lower sump together have come loose and the oil pump pick up is drawing in air.
Simplest upgrade would be a M40B18, the 1.8 litre, which uses many of the original engine's ancillaries, drops straight in and is externally identical to the B16.
A M42B18 (16 valve 1.8 litre E30 iS and E36 engine) is the next upgrade, and this is about the limit on your brakes and suspension, assuming your car is not a touring or cab.
The 2 litre six cylinder M20 engine sounds nice, but you're looking at changing ancillaries, gearbox and prop. and the performance increase over the M40B18 isn't much, although the fuel consumption is.
Then comes the M20B25, the 325i E30 engine, the 24 valve M50, M52 engines from the E36/E34 etc., but you're well into suspension and brake upgrade territory now.
Simplest upgrade would be a M40B18, the 1.8 litre, which uses many of the original engine's ancillaries, drops straight in and is externally identical to the B16.
A M42B18 (16 valve 1.8 litre E30 iS and E36 engine) is the next upgrade, and this is about the limit on your brakes and suspension, assuming your car is not a touring or cab.
The 2 litre six cylinder M20 engine sounds nice, but you're looking at changing ancillaries, gearbox and prop. and the performance increase over the M40B18 isn't much, although the fuel consumption is.
Then comes the M20B25, the 325i E30 engine, the 24 valve M50, M52 engines from the E36/E34 etc., but you're well into suspension and brake upgrade territory now.
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Jo3ly
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Very helpful, thanks! If I was able to get a donor car with one of the bigger engine options, would this allow me to use the suspension/brakes/prop etc from that car and transfer to mine? I was hoping to go all out and look for a 328 
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Jo3ly
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all sorted, found an M40B18 engine from a chap on here. Went for the simple option in the end
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Brianmoooore
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You'll need the AFM and ECU to go with that. Everything else is the same.
Complete cylinder head, including camshaft is identical, so you may want to remove it from the old engine and tuck it away somewhere.
Complete cylinder head, including camshaft is identical, so you may want to remove it from the old engine and tuck it away somewhere.
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Jo3ly
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good to know, thanks! even all the sensor plugs etc on the loom are the same?
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Brianmoooore
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Exactly the same. The 1.8 will run on the 1.6 ECU and AFM, but it won't run as well as it should, costing you fuel and performance, and maybe causing MOT test problems.
The main weakness of the M40 engine is BMW's first attempt at hydraulic self adjusting tappets, which can be responsible for a loud tapping noise from the top of the engine at start up and idle, and sometimes at higher revs. as well. The problem doesn't lead to any serious problems or great loss in performance, so can be lived with, if you can tolerate stares and comments from the uninitiated.
If your old engine didn't suffer from this, then it's doubly worth hanging on to the cylinder head.
The main weakness of the M40 engine is BMW's first attempt at hydraulic self adjusting tappets, which can be responsible for a loud tapping noise from the top of the engine at start up and idle, and sometimes at higher revs. as well. The problem doesn't lead to any serious problems or great loss in performance, so can be lived with, if you can tolerate stares and comments from the uninitiated.
If your old engine didn't suffer from this, then it's doubly worth hanging on to the cylinder head.
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arrisbmw
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thats interesting , to know m40 engine parts are the same except ecu and afm , so did bmw just fit a different crankshaft with a longer throw to achieve the extra cc. or is it bored out with larger pistons.
I thought the spray bar that lubricate the cam was the weakness in the m40 engine. getting blocked if regular oil changes are not performed, an consequently causing oil starvation on top end. similar design to the ford pinto engine of old.
I plan to clean mine every other oil change. and change oil every 3-5 k.
I thought the spray bar that lubricate the cam was the weakness in the m40 engine. getting blocked if regular oil changes are not performed, an consequently causing oil starvation on top end. similar design to the ford pinto engine of old.
I plan to clean mine every other oil change. and change oil every 3-5 k.
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Brianmoooore
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Same bore, at 84mm. Spray bar will block on a badly maintained engine, just as it will in an M20, and any other engine that uses a similar arrangement.
This can't be considered a weakness in design - more a weakness in the owner. Follow the SI lights for your oil change intervals, using a decent oil (which will be far better than what the engine was designed to run on ) and engine life will be maximised as far as it can be using petrol as fuel.
For significantly increased life on top of this, you'll need to run the car on LPG, eliminating the damage caused by condensed fuel washing oil of of the bores of a cold engine, and also eliminating most of the oil contamination with acids that are derived from burnt petrol.
This can't be considered a weakness in design - more a weakness in the owner. Follow the SI lights for your oil change intervals, using a decent oil (which will be far better than what the engine was designed to run on ) and engine life will be maximised as far as it can be using petrol as fuel.
For significantly increased life on top of this, you'll need to run the car on LPG, eliminating the damage caused by condensed fuel washing oil of of the bores of a cold engine, and also eliminating most of the oil contamination with acids that are derived from burnt petrol.