bmw e30 blower motor problems
Moderator: martauto
I have a bmw e30 coupe 1986 and the blower motor was ceased and didnt move so i took it out and sprayed much wd40 on it and then i got it to move but now when i have it in the car it only work on 4 and 5 and it only goes for 5sec and it clicks and it stops and after 30sec it starts again and keep going like this and i have a brand new resistor so can it be that the motor is still a bit ceased so it spins to heavey so it overheat or?
WD40 is not going to lubricate the fan shaft for long, all it does is wash the old lubricant and crap out. Might free it up for a while, but it is not a permanent fix.
I have never had much luck reviving my fans either, but at least you need to re-oil after the WD40.
I have 2 fans, I stand the fan vertically, let oil (the thicker the better) rund down the shaft on a hot sunny day so that it penetrates as far as possible into the bushes, then turn it over and repeat. Even then it will only run good for a year or two, at which point I swap it with the other pre-oiled one and set about cleaning and re-oiling the other, ready for the next swap.
Top tip; to make swapping them easier, screw a self tapping screw, about 3 cms long into the small hole in the "strap" that hold the fan in. Then you can grab the head with a pliers to ease removal.
I have never had much luck reviving my fans either, but at least you need to re-oil after the WD40.
I have 2 fans, I stand the fan vertically, let oil (the thicker the better) rund down the shaft on a hot sunny day so that it penetrates as far as possible into the bushes, then turn it over and repeat. Even then it will only run good for a year or two, at which point I swap it with the other pre-oiled one and set about cleaning and re-oiling the other, ready for the next swap.
Top tip; to make swapping them easier, screw a self tapping screw, about 3 cms long into the small hole in the "strap" that hold the fan in. Then you can grab the head with a pliers to ease removal.
These are sensations as hard to forget as they are to ignore.....
okey thanks for the answer but do you know why it only works on the two last steps on the switch?clipper wrote:WD40 is not going to lubricate the fan shaft for long, all it does is wash the old lubricant and crap out. Might free it up for a while, but it is not a permanent fix.
I have never had much luck reviving my fans either, but at least you need to re-oil after the WD40.
I have 2 fans, I stand the fan vertically, let oil (the thicker the better) rund down the shaft on a hot sunny day so that it penetrates as far as possible into the bushes, then turn it over and repeat. Even then it will only run good for a year or two, at which point I swap it with the other pre-oiled one and set about cleaning and re-oiling the other, ready for the next swap.
Top tip; to make swapping them easier, screw a self tapping screw, about 3 cms long into the small hole in the "strap" that hold the fan in. Then you can grab the head with a pliers to ease removal.
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Fully agree!clipper wrote:WD40 is not going to lubricate the fan shaft for long, all it does is wash the old lubricant and crap out. Might free it up for a while, but it is not a permanent fix.
Agree again.at least you need to re-oil after the WD40.
I stand the fan vertically, let oil (the thicker the better) rund down the shaft on a hot sunny day so that it penetrates as far as possible into the bushes, then turn it over and repeat.
Agree once again, except that I say the oil should be as thin as possible - such as "3 in 1" machine oil. It needs to be powered up from a battery while in your hand as well, both in the cleaning and lubricating phase, and run at all angles.
This is where we disagree! Apart from a few, where things had been left too long, and the bearings were obviously worn, I've never had to revisit one that I'd serviced. The bush bearings are made of a porous metal, and thin oil soaks into them, so that might be the crucial difference.Even then it will only run good for a year or two,
Interesting idea. There's a knack to dealing with that clip, but this might help with those who haven't learnt exactly how.Top tip; to make swapping them easier, screw a self tapping screw, about 3 cms long into the small hole in the "strap" that hold the fan in. Then you can grab the head with a pliers to ease removal.
It sounds like the OP's motor is still drawing excess current on the higher speeds, which might be because the bearings are still dragging. If you wedge the carbon brushes back away from the commutator, the shaft should turn completely without resistance.
Brian, I bow to your superior knowledge (as ever!).
I didn't know about the porous metal bushings, so have been using ever heavier oil in an attempt to keep it from "draining away".... I will change my tactic on the next swap to take your info into acount, it certainly makes sense about it being the crucial difference.
I agree that it sounds like the OP has still not got a freely spinning fan and hence the failure to operate at all resistance setting.
I didn't know about the porous metal bushings, so have been using ever heavier oil in an attempt to keep it from "draining away".... I will change my tactic on the next swap to take your info into acount, it certainly makes sense about it being the crucial difference.
I agree that it sounds like the OP has still not got a freely spinning fan and hence the failure to operate at all resistance setting.
These are sensations as hard to forget as they are to ignore.....
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

- Posts: 49358
- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Bearings are made by a process known as sintering, which is roughly the same as making a snowball out of snow.
You had to be an engineer in a previous life, what a description !!Brianmoooore wrote:Bearings are made by a process known as sintering, which is roughly the same as making a snowball out of snow.
Mart.
Only the E46 cab left now.
Just got too old.
Just got too old.


