Drivers door won't lock
Moderator: martauto
Hi All, I am a complete newbie to the world of E30s.
I recently (about 2 months ago) bought myself a gorgeous 325i. It's all original, and runs really well, in my opinion.
Anyway, the fella I bought it off only had the 1 key. So, I tried to get another one cut. The first one they cut didn't work properly, and neither did the second one. And neither did the third! Unfortunately whilst trying this 3rd key it has b**gered up my central locking! The driver's side door will now not lock (using the original key). The key turns in the keyhole but the pull-up door lock knob doesn't move, and the door remains unlocked. Also, none of the other doors are locking or unlocking either: they are all in the locked position. I can get the passengers side door open by turning the key and fiddling with the handle, but I can't get the rear doors open at all. The boot will lock and unlock independently but doesn't have any affect on the central locking. It used to work beautifully.
Any ideas about how I can lock the driver's door in the first instance?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
I recently (about 2 months ago) bought myself a gorgeous 325i. It's all original, and runs really well, in my opinion.
Anyway, the fella I bought it off only had the 1 key. So, I tried to get another one cut. The first one they cut didn't work properly, and neither did the second one. And neither did the third! Unfortunately whilst trying this 3rd key it has b**gered up my central locking! The driver's side door will now not lock (using the original key). The key turns in the keyhole but the pull-up door lock knob doesn't move, and the door remains unlocked. Also, none of the other doors are locking or unlocking either: they are all in the locked position. I can get the passengers side door open by turning the key and fiddling with the handle, but I can't get the rear doors open at all. The boot will lock and unlock independently but doesn't have any affect on the central locking. It used to work beautifully.
Any ideas about how I can lock the driver's door in the first instance?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
I think I may have found the root of the problem..... flat battery!
(It helps if you check the obvious first...)
Now I need to find out why my battery has died; haven't driven it for nearly a week. I didn't leave the headlights on....
(It helps if you check the obvious first...)
Now I need to find out why my battery has died; haven't driven it for nearly a week. I didn't leave the headlights on....
Update: I have just tested the battery with a voltmeter: it is reading 0.03V !! What on earth could have caused the battery to lose all that voltage?? I drove the car about 500 miles last weekend. The battery is relatively brand new (I put it in a month ago).
Any ideas?
Also, would not having any juice in the battery prevent the drivers door from locking?
Thanks.
Any ideas?
Also, would not having any juice in the battery prevent the drivers door from locking?
Thanks.
- Stefan on probation
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Check glove box light and boot light not staying on, also what alarm do you have?
For the boot light park up at your nearest school and ask a small child to help you with something in the boot of the car.
For the boot light park up at your nearest school and ask a small child to help you with something in the boot of the car.
Hi, thanks for the tips. I shall check for both lights as and when I get the battery charged up again. Bit odd that one or other light might be staying on now, all of a sudden.
Also, I have no alarm system.
(If I don't find any small children to help me, then I might peer into the boot through the back seat through the ski bag thingy...)
Thanks!
Also, I have no alarm system.
(If I don't find any small children to help me, then I might peer into the boot through the back seat through the ski bag thingy...)
Thanks!
- Stefan on probation
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I used one of these to test the circuits, first of all though make sure all cables are clean and tight form the alternator to the battery and the negative so that the battery is being charged as it should be.
Then test from the fusebox to see if any circuit is drawing a load when the car is left.
Then test from the fusebox to see if any circuit is drawing a load when the car is left.
Thanks, I'll give it a bash.SexyLady wrote:I used one of these to test the circuits, first of all though make sure all cables are clean and tight form the alternator to the battery and the negative so that the battery is being charged as it should be.
Then test from the fusebox to see if any circuit is drawing a load when the car is left.
Check that the famous red/black wire modification has been done, explained here:
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... g_problems
This is concerned with the heated door locks, if fitted, just possible fiddling with the lock has got that stuck on, if you have them.
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... g_problems
This is concerned with the heated door locks, if fitted, just possible fiddling with the lock has got that stuck on, if you have them.
Thanks. I don't think I have heated door locks, but I can't be sure... How can I tell? (I don't have heated seats, that's for sure).ChrisHC wrote:Check that the famous red/black wire modification has been done, explained here:
http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... g_problems
This is concerned with the heated door locks, if fitted, just possible fiddling with the lock has got that stuck on, if you have them.
Thanks Chris.
Update: It's been resolved. Jump started the car and discovered I had left the interior light on! Car is now starting properly, and the central locking is working exactly as it should - and I can now lock the door!
I still don't have a spare key that works though.
And do I need to do the red/black wire modification if everything is now working properly again?
Update: It's been resolved. Jump started the car and discovered I had left the interior light on! Car is now starting properly, and the central locking is working exactly as it should - and I can now lock the door!
I still don't have a spare key that works though.
And do I need to do the red/black wire modification if everything is now working properly again?
Yeah, BMW will do one for you and you dont need to give them your other key as they use their original data for the car if i remember correctly.
I think you need to take your V5 and some I.D when you order. Its worth giving your local dealer a call though just to be sure.
I think you need to take your V5 and some I.D when you order. Its worth giving your local dealer a call though just to be sure.
Okay, cheers.
I am actually based in France, so I'll ask them over there, and be prepared for it to cost a hundred million euros!
Let's see what they say...
P.S. How can I attach a photo to a message? Would love to show off my gorgeous car.
I am actually based in France, so I'll ask them over there, and be prepared for it to cost a hundred million euros!
Let's see what they say...
P.S. How can I attach a photo to a message? Would love to show off my gorgeous car.
- Stefan on probation
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You need an old school key cutting place to do a key properly graphite powder may also help in the lock.
I always have my interior light turned off since reading Andy McNab books
I always have my interior light turned off since reading Andy McNab books
Why, did he accidentally flatten his battery? Or does it make you a target?SexyLady wrote:You need an old school key cutting place to do a key properly graphite powder may also help in the lock.
I always have my interior light turned off since reading Andy McNab books
- Stefan on probation
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Graphite powder helps lubricate the lock and old school key cutter will "trim" the key to try to match a worn 28 year old key.ChrisHC wrote:Why, did he accidentally flatten his battery? Or does it make you a target?SexyLady wrote:You need an old school key cutting place to do a key properly graphite powder may also help in the lock.
I always have my interior light turned off since reading Andy McNab books
The light trick is for when you exit the car and undesirables are after you so it doesn't light up. its called paranoia
Update: I returned to both key cutting shops on the High Street to see if either could re-cut their keys. In fact, after 3 attempts both managed to cut a key that works. So I now have 2 working spares! It pays to persist.
One question: there is a circular button on the original key, and what looks to be an LED. Presumably this is for remote central locking? It doesn't work of course, but if I replaced the battery inside it would it get the remote central locking to work again? Or is this unlikely? Thanks.
One question: there is a circular button on the original key, and what looks to be an LED. Presumably this is for remote central locking? It doesn't work of course, but if I replaced the battery inside it would it get the remote central locking to work again? Or is this unlikely? Thanks.
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Captain_Birdseye
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I'm pretty sure that's just an LED torch, all be it small, but bright enough to find the lock hole when pitch black. That was the case with my old Beemer anyway.
Captain_Birdseye wrote:I'm pretty sure that's just an LED torch, all be it small, but bright enough to find the lock hole when pitch black. That was the case with my old Beemer anyway.
Ah! Okay. So nothing to do with central locking in that case. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
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Captain_Birdseye
- E30 Zone Regular

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No probs, just gave it a quick google and I think the bulb may not even be an LED, so if you fancied getting it working again, it may be worth replacing with an LED:
http://e30.bmwdiy.info/key-led/
http://e30.bmwdiy.info/key-led/
If you do want remote locking it is not expensive to do, I have it on mine, it works well and saves the wear on the driver's door lock. Rightclick are recommended by Brian Moore
https://www.rclick.co.uk/index.php?cPath=53
https://www.rclick.co.uk/index.php?cPath=53
- Brianmoooore
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Late to the party, but I'll comment anyway!
New key from (UK) dealer is 20 something pounds, and IIRC, the cheapest version is the type with the built in torch.
Do the red/black wire mod. anyway. It's a preventative measure for more thn the central locking.
Remote locking kit, as in ChrisHC's link is easy to do (all required connections are behind the glovebox on RH drive cars or above driver's under dash panel on LH drive cars), and will greatly extend the life of the door locks.
After thirty years, the whole lock mechanism and linkage, especially in the driver's door, will be long overdue for some lubrication. This will be why your lock wouldn't work with a flat battery.
New key from (UK) dealer is 20 something pounds, and IIRC, the cheapest version is the type with the built in torch.
Do the red/black wire mod. anyway. It's a preventative measure for more thn the central locking.
Remote locking kit, as in ChrisHC's link is easy to do (all required connections are behind the glovebox on RH drive cars or above driver's under dash panel on LH drive cars), and will greatly extend the life of the door locks.
After thirty years, the whole lock mechanism and linkage, especially in the driver's door, will be long overdue for some lubrication. This will be why your lock wouldn't work with a flat battery.
Thanks for the info!
Just for the sake of clarity, it's a LHD car: bought in Germany, and living in France.
Re: lubricating the door locks, how is that done? Does it involve any dismantling, or will a well-aimed squirt of WD40 suffice?
Just for the sake of clarity, it's a LHD car: bought in Germany, and living in France.
Re: lubricating the door locks, how is that done? Does it involve any dismantling, or will a well-aimed squirt of WD40 suffice?
