I got it started but help

[rtm]

First off I am hopeless with electrics. I put a replacement battery in my E30 (not a new battery but with charge) and the car wouldn't start although it was turning over freely. The red light on the dash (immobilizer) was flicking red/green and the side indicator was flashing. I unplugged the battery and did some other things and then shortly afterwards it started first turn. I foolishly disconnected the battery again last night and now the same thing is happening and I can't get it started. Is there a fix/procedure for this that doesn't involve cutting wires. I only have one key.

[rtm]

Could be that the battery has a low charge so when it's hooked up it's causing the immobiliser to stay armed? Or is there a procedure I need to follow?

[Speedtouch]

Could be that the battery is a bit too flat to properly power the electronics, so ensure it's fully charged.

Try repeating the "other things" you did to get it started...

[Brianmoooore]

Sounds very much like the alarm/immobiliser is arming itself when the battery is reconnected, as many do. How do you normally disarm it? What E30, and what alarm/immobiliser?

[rtm]

The model is 1986 E30 Baur 316. It has an alarm which is a Serpi Star GR40. Its turning over really well, trying hard to start but it won't fire. I only picked it yesterday so don't know the history of the electronics. Heres the thing though, the right indicator is flashing as soon as I put the car in the ignition when it's not been switched on, I think this is something to do with the problem. I think yesterday that the car wasn't doing that when it fired up. To make matters worse, I put my foot on the clutch pedal not 5 minutes ago and there is no clutch?? Or no clutch resistance (push back) through the pedal. What is going on now?

[rtm]

Regarding disarming, the key fob doesn't work although it started yesterday several times. I just put the key in the ignition although I'm certain the flasher wasn't on which leads me to think this is the issue. Whats the story with the clutch pedal?

[Brianmoooore]

The story with the clutch, is that you have just been 'done' if you only bought it yesterday. Is there any fluid in the clutch reservoir (near the battery)?
When it won't start, check whether there is 12 volts on the + terminal of the ignition coil, with the ignition on, measured between the terminal and a good body earth, such as the earthing point on the RH strut top.

[Speedtouch]

Try fitting a new battery to the key fob, if it won't respond.

[rtm]

Clutch reservoir is empty, noticed fluid on the garage floor. This car has been parked up since 2007. Very clean but left to sit. Looks like its sprung a leak which would explain the lack of resistance. What's the likely source of the failure? Car drove well enough yesterday so it has happened overnight?

The battery is reading 12.30V when I stick a volt meter on it. I don't think it can be the alarm that's disarming the car or preventing t from starting as I read that the starter motor wouldn't respond if the immobiliser was engaged, is that correct?

[Speedtouch]

The clutch slave and/or master cylinder seal(s) will have failed, requiring replacement unit(s) then bleeding:

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... luid_Leaks

Some immobilisers will allow the engine to crank over but not enable the ignition side of things to allow the engine to fire.

[rtm]

Thanks for that, I think I will look into having this immobiliser removed (I won't be doing it!) I assume they can be unpicked or bypassed? It's a GR40 Serpi Star.

[Brianmoooore]

If there's fluid on the garage floor, the clutch slave cylinder will have failed. Because the master cylinder piston will have now been pushed slightly further into its cylinder bore that it has been for years, the seal in that will probably have been damaged as well, so it's a good idea to change both, after cleaning out what is probably 30 year old sludge in the bottom of the reservoir.
Immobiliser, like all E30 immobilisers (except those fitted with EWS as part of a more modern engine swap), is laughingly easy to bypass, and not at all difficult to completely remove.
Answer my question in my last post, and I'll tell you how to bypass it.

[rtm]

It looks like the alarm/immobiliser is the fault, managed to get the started so the alarm/immobiliser needs to get removed or bypassed. How do you bypass this? I need the moron's guide please.

[Brianmoooore]

Answer my question in my last post, and I'll tell you how to bypass it.

[rtm]

We have bypass, I repeat we have a bypass - and a car that is starting!

[minesapint]

[quote="rtm"]Clutch reservoir is empty, noticed fluid on the garage floor. This car has been parked up since 2007. Very clean but left to sit. Looks like its sprung a leak which would explain the lack of resistance. What's the likely source of the failure? Car drove well enough yesterday so it has happened overnight?

BMW sell a seal kit for the slave cylinder, for mine (86 325i) it was £27. Very comprehensive with new piston, dust excluder & truarc ring. Had a weeks wait coming from Germany.

[minesapint]

Ps. The source of the failure is 30yr old crud in the hydraulic fluid acting as grinding paste on the rubber seals.