m50b25 vanos fuel but no spark

[Eeken98]

I have swaped a m50b25 vanos motor into my e30 but when i try to start i get fuel but no spark anybody know where to begin?

[Speedtouch]

With a multimeter, to check for a live feed to the ignition coil(s), for starters.

Also, double-check your wiring and earths to ensure the ECU is seeing all the relevant sensors.

I presume you have installed the ECU that came with the engine, or an equivalent that will work with it? Has the immobiliser part (EWS) been de-activated if need be?

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... #Disabling

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... oubleshoot

[Eeken98]

today i noticed that the motor dont get fuel either. I cheked that i have power to the coils and i have a red labeld 413 ecu that should work and cps should work it worked when i pulled the motor out of my e34.

[Speedtouch]

I assume the engine cranks over? I would check the power supply (including the switched supply from the ignition switch) and earths to the ECU work as they should as a first step, and ensure you have a good engine-to-body earth strap.

[Eeken98]

I assume the engine cranks over? I would check the power supply (including the switched supply from the ignition switch) and earths to the ECU work as they should as a first step, and ensure you have a good engine-to-body earth strap.

yes it cranks over but can it have something to do with that its an automatic harness but i have an manual transmisson now?

[Speedtouch]

Indeed - autos are fitted with a starting inhibitor switch, where unless you have it in 'P' (Park), it won't start.

So, check the loom for wires that would normally go to the Park inhibitor switch, and join them together.

[Eeken98]

Indeed - autos are fitted with a starting inhibitor switch, where unless you have it in 'P' (Park), it won't start.

So, check the loom for wires that would normally go to the Park inhibitor switch, and join them together.

I think i found the two wires that need to join together but didnt help but do i need the box to the automatic transmission connected too or just join the wires? But the wires dont go to any power

[Speedtouch]

Best find the specific wiring loom diagram that your car has, which should identify which wires you need to join.

I wouldn't have thought you'd need the auto box's separate ECU plugged in, but if you have it to hand, it's worth fitting it to see what the effect is...

[Eeken98]

Best find the specific wiring loom diagram that your car has, which should identify which wires you need to join.

I wouldn't have thought you'd need the auto box's separate ECU plugged in, but if you have it to hand, it's worth fitting it to see what the effect is...

I have tried to put 12volt through the wires but didnt do anything so now i dont know what to do next

[Speedtouch]

With a multimeter, check for a live feed to the ignition coil(s), for starters.

Also, double-check your wiring and earths to ensure the ECU is seeing all the relevant sensors.

In particular, verify that the crank position sensor (CPS) is working as it should - a common cause of non-start scenarios in modern cars.

Is your red label 413 ECU the original one for your engine?

[Eeken98]

With a multimeter, check for a live feed to the ignition coil(s), for starters.

Also, double-check your wiring and earths to ensure the ECU is seeing all the relevant sensors.

In particular, verify that the crank position sensor (CPS) is working as it should - a common cause of non-start scenarios in modern cars.

Is your red label 413 ECU the original one for your engine?

now i have checked the cps and it has the right ohms and i have the original red ecu and i have bought a second 413 red label ecu to. But today when i looked on some wiring diagram and tested the ecu plug where it should come power but it comes 12volt where it should be ground can i have wired something wrong in the connector from body to enigine harness?

[Speedtouch]

You'll ideally need to find the wiring diagram for the particular loom you're using, which presumably, as come out of a donor car...

Most German cars use brown wires for the earths.

Getting 12V out of a terminal that should be earth indicates something awry, so double check that particular one. Let's hope it hasn't fried the ECU!

These links might help:





It might help if you let us know which donor car you used and which car you've transplanted it into...

[drakesmith]

My guess would be to check if the relays are working. Start from there.

If no fuel and spark. That would be the first port of call and trace back.

[Eeken98]

Im going do delete all that has with the automatic harness.
People says that it fixes the problem to remove all the cabels. if that not help i can exclude the automatic transmisson problem and start troubleshooting everything else

[Eeken98]

Now i have removed the all wires that goes to the transmission plugg and joined all the wires that goes to the ecu plug from transmission plug to 12volt and nothing did change i have checkd the relays and all are clicking i have checked the ground too and cps is woeking. But my fuel pump dont prime when i turn the key but i have the fuel pump on a switch. Anybody have more tips?

[Speedtouch]

What do you mean by "I have the fuel pump on a switch"? Does it actually work at all, and are you seeing any sparks at the plugs (which would confirm the CPS & ECU are working)?

[Eeken98]

What do you mean by "I have the fuel pump on a switch"? Does it actually work at all, and are you seeing any sparks at the plugs (which would confirm the CPS & ECU are working)?

yes the fuel pump works. But no spark

[Eeken98]

But can it be any wire that i have wired wrong from body to engine harness that cause this problem?

[Speedtouch]

Indeed. You only need one wire incorrectly fitted, or a bad connection to cause such issues.

I would systematically check your work, and use a multimeter with continuity tester to check each important (i.e., related to ECU and ignition) wire and earth.

Perhaps try directly connecting the ECU +ve connection(s) directly from its socket straight to battery +ve (thus bypassing the ignition switch/immobiliser, etc.), just to establish that it actually works.

Also check for any blown fusible links in the battery supply lead(s) - they are often located near the battery, and hidden under the cable sheathing, so sometimes difficult to tell if they're blown.

[Eeken98]

Indeed. You only need one wire incorrectly fitted, or a bad connection to cause such issues.

I would systematically check your work, and use a multimeter with continuity tester to check each important (i.e., related to ECU and ignition) wire and earth.

Perhaps try directly connecting the ECU +ve connection(s) directly from its socket straight to battery +ve (thus bypassing the ignition switch/immobiliser, etc.), just to establish that it actually works.

Also check for any blown fusible links in the battery supply lead(s) - they are often located near the battery, and hidden under the cable sheathing, so sometimes difficult to tell if they're blown.

But the body plug has diffrent wires colors and numbers than any m50swap wiring diagram that i seen so its har to know where the cabels goed

[Speedtouch]

You'll ideally need to find the wiring diagram for the particular loom you're using, which presumably, has come out of a donor car...

It might help if you let us know which donor car you used and which car you've transplanted it into...

[Eeken98]

You'll ideally need to find the wiring diagram for the particular loom you're using, which presumably, has come out of a donor car...

It might help if you let us know which donor car you used and which car you've transplanted it into...

Donor car is an bmw e34 525i 1992 and its transplanted into an bmw e30 320 1986[/img]
But i have two cabels that comes out of theeninge harness that i tought was grounds but can they be + cabels? I looked on some similar harnesses and there they only have 1 wire that gies to + but i dont find any like mine harness

[Speedtouch]

There's a wiring diagram for an E34 525i here, in case you don't already have one:

http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/

[Eeken98]

There's a wiring diagram for an E34 525i here, in case you don't already have one:

http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/

Do you know how many wires that need to be connected right from body to engine harness?

[Speedtouch]

Not offhand. However, the basics to get the engine running would include earth (at least one), fuel injectors X6, CPS, TPS, cam sensor (if fitted), ignition coil(s), electric fan (if fitted), starter motor & solenoid wiring, etc.

[drakesmith]

It a simple fix pm me

[Eeken98]

It a simple fix pm me

i Have sent pm

[drakesmith]

Your wiring has a earth thats wired as live is my bet. Ive seen it happen before.

[Eeken98]

now im going through all the pins in the ecu connector to make them work right but pin 27 should be ground to the main relay but i dont get gorund out of it on internet it says that you have the ecu connected to measure it i have tried that but nothing i have jumped the relay to but nothing. Do anybody know if i can just wire it to ground direct or?

[Speedtouch]

You may be able to wire it directly to ground (and it may be worth temporarily trying this), but it's probably switched via the relay for a good reason...

Have you tested that particular relay works as it should?

[Eeken98]

Today i tried to wire somethings and when i turn the key and trys to start it cranks but when i turn the key back to accesories the fuel pump primes and it sprays fuel out of every injector

[DanThe]

If the injectors are firing without the engine turning you have some seriously messed up wiring or you have killed the ECU, or maybe both, id advise you take it apart and start again paying attention to what wire does what before you connect them or a battery

[Eeken98]

ya i need to start over but its hard when the wires that comes out of the body on the e30 are not the same as any wiring diagram so does anybody know how to know wich goes where?

[DanThe]

Body to engine loom connections have no influence on the injectors, but list what you have with pin numbers, you only need ignition, fuel pump and starter signal to get the engine running. First thing to do is check the main power and earth to the loom, red wires to battery, brown and brown/orange wires to chassis

[Eeken98]

pin numbers and colors in the body connector c101
1 two blue wires
2 blue/yellow
4 purple/yellow
5 black/yellow
6 green/yellow
7 green
10 purple/green
11 white/blue
13 purple/red
18 yellow/black

But when these are right connected and grounds and powers connected its should start whitout any extra connections right?