'86 316 M20B28
Moderator: martauto
-
DanThe
- E30 Zone Team Member
- Posts: 28641
- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Staffs
- Contact:
The E46 FPR is not only cheaper but it is also an upgrade, because the fuel is not run through the rail it doesn't get heat transfer from the engine so your fuel stays a lot cooler than it would normally.
Little update,
So I ended up going down the 944 S2 FPR route as I gave up trying to find an FPR for the E46 housing in the desired pressure.
Problem since that was engine knock was then present under anything but slight throttle, and starting had become much harder, to the point it could take a minute of cranking to get it going. The CPS was swapped out as the readings were bang on the limits listed in the Wiki, seemed to sort it for a bit.
Went for another mapping session in the hope that would cure it, but it still wasn't getting enough fuel, so everything was now pointing towards the pump being dodgy, 2yr old Bosch pump! So all that could be done in the session was some tweaks to get it running smothly.
Pulled the pump out and found that the wiring on the cradle was showing signs of corrosion, so replaced that. Also after trying an E36 pump I noticed that the Bosch pump was quite a bit smaller, and seemed a lot looser in the cradle, I don't think the plastic link pipe between the pump and cradle was sealing well enough and possibly leaking. For now I've wedged a rubber mount I had to hand under the pump and it's now firing up as you'd expect an E30 to, also drives a lot better
. So I'll be pulling the pump back out and fitting some rubber fuel line to replace the plastic link so it sits in the cradle lower.
Car is now SORNed so won't be going for another mapping session until next year now. Will now be getting a full clean down underneath and treated to more 3M Cavity Wax and ACF50 since it's now been out in the snow and ice
Retrorides Gathering, easily my favourite show, and the only one I bothered with this year;
So I ended up going down the 944 S2 FPR route as I gave up trying to find an FPR for the E46 housing in the desired pressure.
Problem since that was engine knock was then present under anything but slight throttle, and starting had become much harder, to the point it could take a minute of cranking to get it going. The CPS was swapped out as the readings were bang on the limits listed in the Wiki, seemed to sort it for a bit.
Went for another mapping session in the hope that would cure it, but it still wasn't getting enough fuel, so everything was now pointing towards the pump being dodgy, 2yr old Bosch pump! So all that could be done in the session was some tweaks to get it running smothly.
Pulled the pump out and found that the wiring on the cradle was showing signs of corrosion, so replaced that. Also after trying an E36 pump I noticed that the Bosch pump was quite a bit smaller, and seemed a lot looser in the cradle, I don't think the plastic link pipe between the pump and cradle was sealing well enough and possibly leaking. For now I've wedged a rubber mount I had to hand under the pump and it's now firing up as you'd expect an E30 to, also drives a lot better
. So I'll be pulling the pump back out and fitting some rubber fuel line to replace the plastic link so it sits in the cradle lower.Car is now SORNed so won't be going for another mapping session until next year now. Will now be getting a full clean down underneath and treated to more 3M Cavity Wax and ACF50 since it's now been out in the snow and ice
Retrorides Gathering, easily my favourite show, and the only one I bothered with this year;
-
maggspower
- Turbo Farmer Tractor Driver
- Posts: 2376
- Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Nowhere near South Wales, ok butt
A fuel pressure test rig costs about 10 quid to make, and will instantly pinpoint any fuel pressure issues.
If you are going to use hose to replace the link between the pump and the cradle then make sure it is the correct hose. Most stuff is designed to carry fuel not be submerged in it.
Do not allow the engine to 'knock', I cannot stress how important this is.
Still looking good though
If you are going to use hose to replace the link between the pump and the cradle then make sure it is the correct hose. Most stuff is designed to carry fuel not be submerged in it.
Do not allow the engine to 'knock', I cannot stress how important this is.
Still looking good though
Contact: theengineshedonline@gmail.com
Cool, could you tell me more about how to build a FP tester?maggspower wrote:A fuel pressure test rig costs about 10 quid to make, and will instantly pinpoint any fuel pressure issues.
If you are going to use hose to replace the link between the pump and the cradle then make sure it is the correct hose. Most stuff is designed to carry fuel not be submerged in it.
Do not allow the engine to 'knock', I cannot stress how important this is.
Still looking good though
I'd not even considered a fuel hose wouldn't handle being sat in fuel, will do some research into that.
Other than once down the road, the only other time it was driven after the FPR change was up to the mappers, hope that's not an issue for the engine.
Spring time update.
Fuel supply issue sorted with the use of some proper fuel hose to replace the plastic link, made sure I used rubber that's rated for being submersible in petrol as per maggspower's advice.
Had also had an issue where by the coolant system pressureised itself the last time it was on the rollers, temp fix to get it home was to remove the rubber seals from the cap. Upon further inspection I found that the rad cap was what looks to be a 2.0 BAR one, instead of 1.4 BAR. Hopefully this was the cause as I couldn't find any other issues. Just needs a coolant change and I'll be booking in for what will hopefully be the last mapping session.
During the past week I've also got around to fitting some ICE. I've dug out all of the audio gear I used to run in my old 318iS, and thankfully it all still works, I was expecting that I'd need to send the Genesis amps of to be serviced. So I'm running from Boston Acoutics RC520 mids and tweeters and a 10 sub in the boot with two Genesis Stereo 60 amps, it's a low power but high quality set up. I've still got a spare Genesis amp I might save incase I can find some of those speaker pods for the parcel shelve. In the mean time I just need to make the boot install tidier and more permanent looking.
As for the headunit, I've decided to stick with not having one for the time being, instead I've bought a JL bluetooth reciever and hiden that under the dash. The remote lead from this to the amps is then ran through an electic window kill switch so I can still control when the amps come on.
[/URL]
Fuel supply issue sorted with the use of some proper fuel hose to replace the plastic link, made sure I used rubber that's rated for being submersible in petrol as per maggspower's advice.
Had also had an issue where by the coolant system pressureised itself the last time it was on the rollers, temp fix to get it home was to remove the rubber seals from the cap. Upon further inspection I found that the rad cap was what looks to be a 2.0 BAR one, instead of 1.4 BAR. Hopefully this was the cause as I couldn't find any other issues. Just needs a coolant change and I'll be booking in for what will hopefully be the last mapping session.
During the past week I've also got around to fitting some ICE. I've dug out all of the audio gear I used to run in my old 318iS, and thankfully it all still works, I was expecting that I'd need to send the Genesis amps of to be serviced. So I'm running from Boston Acoutics RC520 mids and tweeters and a 10 sub in the boot with two Genesis Stereo 60 amps, it's a low power but high quality set up. I've still got a spare Genesis amp I might save incase I can find some of those speaker pods for the parcel shelve. In the mean time I just need to make the boot install tidier and more permanent looking.
As for the headunit, I've decided to stick with not having one for the time being, instead I've bought a JL bluetooth reciever and hiden that under the dash. The remote lead from this to the amps is then ran through an electic window kill switch so I can still control when the amps come on.
[/URL]
Thanks. I'd like to try a Jimmy Hill front spoiler, I'd consider painting one of those body coloured, but not the current one. Really don't think that would work.
Finally got this thing mapped, in the end I had to upgrade the fuel pump. The Bosch pump just wasn't up to it (has been sent back to Bosch for bench testing), I had an E36 M3 pump fitted for a while, but it was noisy and only just flowed enough, and with not knowing it's age I thought it was best to go for a new aftermarket pump, went for an AEM part, seems nice and quiet. REports of noise is what put me off going down the Walbro route.
Now the mapping has been finished, it drives so much smoother, pulls harder throughout the rev range and it returning a hugely improved economy. Headline figure wasn't as high as I'd hoped (202bhp), but then other than the cam the head is standard, so there's room for improvement if I feel like throwing more money at it.
Would be interesting to do a power somewhere local to see what the torque curve is like.
Now the mapping has been finished, it drives so much smoother, pulls harder throughout the rev range and it returning a hugely improved economy. Headline figure wasn't as high as I'd hoped (202bhp), but then other than the cam the head is standard, so there's room for improvement if I feel like throwing more money at it.
Would be interesting to do a power somewhere local to see what the torque curve is like.
