Sump gasket

[corkie]

Hi is there no other way of replacing this without rempving the engine?ta

[Sanchez]

You can lift the engine I think, not sure.

[TriggerFish]

I did it on my m20 by loosening off the engine mounts (but keeping the nuts on) and lifting it up with an engine hoist.

No need to remove the oil pump or anything, just the sump and the cover between the block and the gearbox.

[ravstar13]

Is it a m40 engine? if so no need to, (ive changed many) not 100% on the m20 though, as I have not needed to change it. Just drain the oil, undo the many many bolts, then take of and clean both sides insert gasket with sealent and then bolt back up and your done.

[corkie]

Sorry its m20 b25 and i dont have or can borrow a engine hoist !

[Brianmoooore]

You can fit a new sump gasket without doing anything other than removing the sump bolts and the bracing piece at the flywheel end. Sump will drop onto the crossmember, leaving plenty of space to fit a gasket.
What you won't have, however, is plenty of room to clean off the remains of the old gasket, which is where engine lifting comes in.

[steve_k]

engine support beam across the top,

undo the four subframe bolts, then the engine mounts, allow the subframe to drop down,

remove the inspection cover at the back of the sump, then 20 million sump bolts.

then remove the earth strap & the level sender,

if the sump won't drop down give it a tap all the way round.

to make it easier, undo the three bolts for the oil pump & let it drop into the sump,

slide it out & you now have enogh room to clean it up & the mounting face of the block.

i did mine a few months ago & the above is the way i did mine all from memory, though i was fitting a crank scraper & baffle extention.

[Brianmoooore]

undo the four subframe bolts, then the engine mounts, allow the subframe to drop down,

It's a good idea to remove one bolt each side, diagonally opposite each other, and to screw in a very long bolt or lengths of studding, before removing the other two bolts.
This keeps the subframe lined up with where it fits, making refitting much easier than trying to fight the various suspension components.

[steve_k]

undo the four subframe bolts, then the engine mounts, allow the subframe to drop down,

It's a good idea to remove one bolt each side, diagonally opposite each other, and to screw in a very long bolt or lengths of studding, before removing the other two bolts.
This keeps the subframe lined up with where it fits, making refitting much easier than trying to fight the various suspension components.

i forgot to add that bit thanks for reminding me

also to make it easier to line everything up come refit time, i went from bolts to stud & nut, so much easier now.

[steve_k]

also, if you don't have access to either an engine crane or support beam there is another way.

lump of wood on a jack on the gear box, then remove the bolt that holds the PAS bottle to the strut tower & remove the two bolts that hold the steering rack in place & drop that down, but you will have to drop the oil pump into the sump.

[TriggerFish]

Or I see no reason why two jacks)blocks of wood on the underside of the engine arms wouldn't suffice instead of lifting it from above?

Just a thought... Might make manoeuvring quite hard under there though

[Brianmoooore]

Or I see no reason why two jacks)blocks of wood on the underside of the engine arms wouldn't suffice instead of lifting it from above?

Just a thought... Might make manoeuvring quite hard under there though

Yes, this works, and I've done this a few times. Best to remove the rubbers completely.
Won't work if you want to drop the subframe, though, since the engine mounts are on the subframe.

[corkie]

Thanks all