M40 steam from glovebox and coolant in footwell

[cmsslee]

Hi all, received a call from the wife to say as she was arriving back home in the e30 there was smoke/steam coming from the glovebox accompanied by a hissing sound. I got her to disconnect the battery and left it until I could get home for a look.

I got home and discovered a significant pool of coolant in the passenger footwell so after a search on the zone discovered this is likely to be heater matrix/valve related.

I've removed the centre console to have a look but before I take the valve/matrix etc out i wondered what the method is to determine exactly which part is at the root of the problem so i can avoid doing anything not necessary? Any pointers appreciated thanks...

[B7]

That valve looks like it's been bodged with some sort of self amalgamating tape.

Get that black plastic trim out as well. My money's on the valve is fucked and someone's tried to seal it before.

[B7]

I am looking at it on my phone mind but is it taped up?

[cmsslee]

No mate it's just the pic. I'll get the glovebox trim out the way tomorrow and put another pic up. Cheers

[B7]

The waters dripping off the valve. Not from the matrix aperture. I still think it's the valve.

[magpie]

the valve seal has shat itself .

[jimbom30cab]

Yer looks like a new value is needed

If you get a second hand one, it's well worth replacing the rivets with some 40mm M4 bolts and nyloc nuts. new O ring is also a good idea. Should last for ever then.

Drying the carpet out though.....what a pain in the ass job that is

All the best

[Brianmoooore]

Most important that you check that the coolant pressure cap is not the original type.
There was a safety recall in 1996, when failures of the pressure cap were found to be responsible for failures of the heater valve, releasing super heated coolant into the footwell.
Most replacement caps can be identified by a large yellow disc on their underside.

[Andyboy]

Most important that you check that the coolant pressure cap is not the original type.
There was a safety recall in 1996, when failures of the pressure cap were found to be responsible for failures of the heater valve, releasing super heated coolant into the footwell.
Most replacement caps can be identified by a large yellow disc on their underside.

A dealer mechanic told me that was all a ruse - they did it to get as many cars in as possible for the 4+ service scheme! Let's be honest, when the system pressurises it's normally a hose that pops.

[Brianmoooore]

Had a cap go into failure mode while I was working on an E30 once. Engine was running, and I was doing something to the electrics in the passenger footwell.
I became aware of creaking and distress type noises coming from somewhere, and just had time to find that the coolant hoses were rock hard, before the heater valve blew apart, releasing super heated coolant to where I'd just been working.

[cmsslee]

OK thank you all for your help. Firstly Brian I've checked the cap and it has a yellow sticker so all good on that front.

I've removed that black plastic trim and with a better look it seems it has gone here:




So does that mean a new valve is required?

Also whilst the console is off I've discovered a couple of mysteries, any clues on what this cable is, it was just loose under the centre console like this - as you can see the blue wire goes into steering column and the black and red go off behind the dash.


and also what is this?


All the responses are much appreciated

[BenHar]

Have look at posts 20 and 24 here: http://translate.google.co.uk/translate ... &sandbox=1

Your last picture looks like an after market alarm.

Ben

[cmsslee]

Thanks mate. Will get the parts described in that thread and have a go this week.

[Brianmoooore]

If you want to keep the car on the road while repairs are going on, you can join the two heater hoses together under the bonnet with a short piece of appropriately sized pipe.

[cmsslee]

Thanks for the tip.

Do i need to drain the coolant before taking the valve off? Not sure how much has leaked out but i'm assuming there is still some in the system - is this going to pour out from the matrix or the pipes that go through the firewall?

[Motorhole]

Thanks for the tip.

Do i need to drain the coolant before taking the valve off? Not sure how much has leaked out but i'm assuming there is still some in the system - is this going to pour out from the matrix or the pipes that go through the firewall?

I did when I replaced mine

[Brianmoooore]

Thanks for the tip.

Do i need to drain the coolant before taking the valve off? Not sure how much has leaked out but i'm assuming there is still some in the system - is this going to pour out from the matrix or the pipes that go through the firewall?

Take both hoses under the bonnet off at the same time, and tie them up to the windscreen wiper spindle. There will still be some coolant in the matrix and valve, which you will have to catch when you split the O ring sealed joint between the valve and matrix.
When you put the hoses back on (the right way around!), push the bottom one on first, and then push the top one on when coolant is flowing slowly from the pipe on the bulkhead and the hose, so that as little air as possible is trapped in the system, and you should avoid an airlock.

[cmsslee]

Thanks Brian, done as you've described. Wine stopper hastily plugged in and held with a bit of pressure from a lacky band is currently stopping the matrix draining



Now I need to drill out the rivets to separate the two parts of the valve and then replace the o rings according to the link that Ben posted.


It's not clear in the link how many o rings i need and what size - anyone got a definitive guide? (and place to get them). Also should I replace the o ring between the valve and matrix and is there anything else i need other than the 4 M3/M4 30mm bolts and nyloc nuts?

Really appreciate the help on this thread chaps

[BenHar]

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate ... &sandbox=1

Post 24 lists the exact o-rings required. Google for suppliers.

The last two pictures in post 20 show the location of the large o-ring. Ignore the flat rubber washer. It's not required.

The picture in post 24 shows where the small o-ring goes (click on the picture to enlarge it).

Ben

[cmsslee]

Thanks Ben. Do I need to remove the rubber thing that the OP in that thread has a hole in?

[BenHar]

[quote="cmsslee"]Thanks Ben. Do I need to remove the rubber thing that the OP in that thread has a hole in?

Yes. Bin that and replace with the two o-rings.

Ben

[cmsslee]

Just for completeness I thought i'd post the final outcome on this one - i did the repair according to that German website but unfortunately the valve was still leaking, just a slow drip but i couldn't live with it so I bit the bullet and ordered a new valve from the dealers (£126 ).

Got a bit of a surprise when it turned up, thought they had sent the wrong part.




but it went in and so far so good. Thanks to everyone for their input on the thread

[BenHar]

Interesting that they have changed the design. Hope it's an improvement!

I did the O-ring repair a couple of years ago and it is still working fine.

Ben

[corkie]

The filler cap should have a yellow plastic disc not a yellow sticker! Mine did this a couple of years back and replacing the cap sorted it!