Not to sure on fuel pump relay location
Moderator: martauto
No, fuel pump relay is outside the fuse box it is 4 pin and it's usually yellow. Think it sits under another plastic cover with another two relays one of which is blue if I remember correctly as I have different wiring now after conversion to m30 so can't be certain
- Brianmoooore
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Pump relay is under the bulkhead wiring cover on the left (fusebox) side of the car.
There will be three relay sockets, and the pump relay is the four pin orange/yellow one.
The other relays are the five pin DME relay, which is probably white, and the third socket may have a four pin blue relay in it for a lambda sensor heater, but will probably be empty, since you probably don't have a lambda sensor fitted.
There will be three relay sockets, and the pump relay is the four pin orange/yellow one.
The other relays are the five pin DME relay, which is probably white, and the third socket may have a four pin blue relay in it for a lambda sensor heater, but will probably be empty, since you probably don't have a lambda sensor fitted.
James
'91 325i Sport
'93 318i touring 16v
'91 325i Sport
'93 318i touring 16v
- Brianmoooore
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On UK cars K8 is identical to K4. - DPST (double pole, single throw.)
K1, 2 and 3, K5, 6, and 7, and K9 are all the same. - SPST (single pole, single throw.)
K1, 2 and 3, K5, 6, and 7, and K9 are all the same. - SPST (single pole, single throw.)
- Brianmoooore
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Not quite that simple. DPST relays come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, have the pins in different positions or configurations, and some have electronic components built into their cases as well.BROOMY wrote:So ill just say I need a DPST relay to the shop and they'll know what I want right?
Relays K4 and K8 are identical, and are greatly over specified in an E30, so rarely fail.
Just buy a second hand K4 for a few pence from one of the traders on here, and the chances are it'll be indistinguishable from new.
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steve_k
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if your K4 relay is still there, get the part number from it & go to a local motor factors with it & they should have some in stock,BROOMY wrote:I need it now though.
So can't someone just look at there's n see the wattage ?
andrew page are normally pretty good for these.
if it's got t*ts or wheels it's bound to be trouble...............prove me wrong.
getting oral sex off an ugly person is like rock climbing.....don't look down ;)
getting oral sex off an ugly person is like rock climbing.....don't look down ;)
So is it the same?
Will it work?
The guy at Shirley motor spares told me the black relay(original one) is a fused relay.
Im guessing the yellow one is too from what the picture shows.
But there's no switch symbol on the yellow one so I'm not really sure .
Will it work?
The guy at Shirley motor spares told me the black relay(original one) is a fused relay.
Im guessing the yellow one is too from what the picture shows.
But there's no switch symbol on the yellow one so I'm not really sure .
- Brianmoooore
- E30 Zone Team Member

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- Joined: Mon Jan 10, 2005 11:00 pm
Yellow relay is a single pole change over relay, so not suitable.
The black relay is the correct type of relay, but the pins aren't necessarily in the same places as the E30 one.
Check with the existing black K4 relay in your fusebox that the pattern and numbering of the pins, when looked at from the bottom, are the same for both relays.
There's no fuse in your K4 relay, BTW.
The black relay is the correct type of relay, but the pins aren't necessarily in the same places as the E30 one.
Check with the existing black K4 relay in your fusebox that the pattern and numbering of the pins, when looked at from the bottom, are the same for both relays.
There's no fuse in your K4 relay, BTW.
- Brianmoooore
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Simple to remember - two identical black relays against the bulkhead and all the rest are identical orange relays. (K10 isn't a true relay).
Yes so I was right.
Now I need to get one.
Anyone selling one?? Or should I put a add?
Will this one work just to test them?
Dad unplugged the charger but left the cables attached which from memory will reverse and kill the battery?
Now I need to get one.
Anyone selling one?? Or should I put a add?
Will this one work just to test them?
Dad unplugged the charger but left the cables attached which from memory will reverse and kill the battery?
- Brianmoooore
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Will cause no harm whatsoever. One of my vehicles has a permanently attached charger which is only plugged into the mains when it's parked up in its place.BROOMY wrote: Dad unplugged the charger but left the cables attached which from memory will reverse and kill the battery?
My old red charger used to drain the battery that's why I asked.
Will that relay temporarily work to get them to work until I get a proper one ?(car is unused so no worries about it getting accidentally pressed)
In fact what's the pins to trigger the lights to always be on like the 87 and 30 for the fuel pump?
Will that relay temporarily work to get them to work until I get a proper one ?(car is unused so no worries about it getting accidentally pressed)
In fact what's the pins to trigger the lights to always be on like the 87 and 30 for the fuel pump?
- Brianmoooore
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Your old red charger had a knackered rectifier.BROOMY wrote:My old red charger used to drain the battery that's why I asked.
As I wrote earlier, the black one is the right type, but I've no way of telling if the pin layout is correct.Will that relay temporarily work to get them to work until I get a proper one ?(car is unused so no worries about it getting accidentally pressed)
Still 30 and 87, but this relay has two 87s to link to 30.In fact what's the pins to trigger the lights to always be on like the 87 and 30 for the fuel pump?
Tested the fuel pump finally, it doesn't seem to be pumping fuel, so should I get one of these?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-BMW-E30-3-S ... nav=SEARCH
I just remembered to test for a voltage at the connection to the pump tomorrow I'll do that, but if I get a 12v feedback should I buy that part?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-BMW-E30-3-S ... nav=SEARCH
I just remembered to test for a voltage at the connection to the pump tomorrow I'll do that, but if I get a 12v feedback should I buy that part?
- Brianmoooore
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You need the RH two pin connector. Pull it off the pump and connect a 12 volt bulb to the plug - a meter won't give a conclusive result.
You can either jump 30 to 87 on the relay or turn the engine over and the bulb should light.
Just turning on the ignition switch will not light the bulb.
You can either jump 30 to 87 on the relay or turn the engine over and the bulb should light.
Just turning on the ignition switch will not light the bulb.
Thanks Brian if I haven't said it before
Will the light just permanently be on or continuously flash?
Guess I'll just find out a˜€The fun of classic cars
I became a level 3 motor vehicle completer but have literally no clue on classic cars
Will the light just permanently be on or continuously flash?
Guess I'll just find out a˜€The fun of classic cars
I became a level 3 motor vehicle completer but have literally no clue on classic cars
Tanks now as dry as it will get using the pump.
Any kind of tank cleaner available?
Another issue is my dash it's commonly cracked does anyone reckon shoe glue will do it?
Never heard of anyone using it before in they're dash, I thought as your dash slightly moves and so must a shoe soul it may work.?
Any kind of tank cleaner available?
Another issue is my dash it's commonly cracked does anyone reckon shoe glue will do it?
Never heard of anyone using it before in they're dash, I thought as your dash slightly moves and so must a shoe soul it may work.?








