Not to sure on fuel pump relay location

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BROOMY
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Sun Jul 03, 2016 2:33 am

I'm thinking am I checking the right relay?
I'm checking the 4 pin relay In the fuse box but the web says different.
So who's right ?
This is for a H Reg 318IS BTW[/quote]
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pianist
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Sun Jul 03, 2016 7:01 am

No, fuel pump relay is outside the fuse box it is 4 pin and it's usually yellow. Think it sits under another plastic cover with another two relays one of which is blue if I remember correctly as I have different wiring now after conversion to m30 so can't be certain
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Brianmoooore
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Sun Jul 03, 2016 10:20 am

Pump relay is under the bulkhead wiring cover on the left (fusebox) side of the car.
There will be three relay sockets, and the pump relay is the four pin orange/yellow one.
The other relays are the five pin DME relay, which is probably white, and the third socket may have a four pin blue relay in it for a lambda sensor heater, but will probably be empty, since you probably don't have a lambda sensor fitted.
BROOMY
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Mon Jul 04, 2016 5:15 pm

I found the relays I need.
Image
My battery was dead, couldn't even open a window.a˜¡a˜¡a˜¡
What are these unused relay Homes for?
Image :x
BROOMY
busy saving Clifford
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Mon Jul 04, 2016 6:19 pm

Ok I now know I'm missing K8 , that a simple 5 pin relay?
I can buy from the local auto spares?
jmc330i
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Mon Jul 04, 2016 6:38 pm

James
'91 325i Sport
'93 318i touring 16v
BROOMY
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Mon Jul 04, 2016 7:56 pm

I swear all relays aren't the same?
I'm sure of it
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Jul 04, 2016 10:42 pm

On UK cars K8 is identical to K4. - DPST (double pole, single throw.)
K1, 2 and 3, K5, 6, and 7, and K9 are all the same. - SPST (single pole, single throw.)
BROOMY
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Tue Jul 05, 2016 1:16 am

So ill just say I need a DPST relay to the shop and they'll know what I want right?
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Brianmoooore
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Tue Jul 05, 2016 9:49 am

BROOMY wrote:So ill just say I need a DPST relay to the shop and they'll know what I want right?
Not quite that simple. DPST relays come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, have the pins in different positions or configurations, and some have electronic components built into their cases as well.
Relays K4 and K8 are identical, and are greatly over specified in an E30, so rarely fail.
Just buy a second hand K4 for a few pence from one of the traders on here, and the chances are it'll be indistinguishable from new.
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Tue Jul 05, 2016 9:55 am

I need it now though.
So can't someone just look at there's n see the wattage ?
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Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:01 am

BROOMY wrote:I need it now though.
So can't someone just look at there's n see the wattage ?
if your K4 relay is still there, get the part number from it & go to a local motor factors with it & they should have some in stock,

andrew page are normally pretty good for these.
if it's got t*ts or wheels it's bound to be trouble...............prove me wrong.
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busy saving Clifford
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Tue Jul 05, 2016 10:13 am

It's the one next to the fog light relay right?
I'll just pop up there with that .
Thanks
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Thu Jul 07, 2016 2:08 pm

Went in the shop none there
Went n saw a friend ended up with these?
Dunno if there right so I'm hoping they are same symbols.
Image
Here's the original
Image
BROOMY
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Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:26 pm

So is it the same?
Will it work?
The guy at Shirley motor spares told me the black relay(original one) is a fused relay.
Im guessing the yellow one is too from what the picture shows.
But there's no switch symbol on the yellow one so I'm not really sure .
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Brianmoooore
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Thu Jul 07, 2016 6:40 pm

Yellow relay is a single pole change over relay, so not suitable.
The black relay is the correct type of relay, but the pins aren't necessarily in the same places as the E30 one.
Check with the existing black K4 relay in your fusebox that the pattern and numbering of the pins, when looked at from the bottom, are the same for both relays.
There's no fuse in your K4 relay, BTW.
BROOMY
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Thu Jul 07, 2016 11:10 pm

That black relay is the K4 relay isn't it? Check the picture
Image
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Brianmoooore
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Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:03 am

Simple to remember - two identical black relays against the bulkhead and all the rest are identical orange relays. (K10 isn't a true relay).
BROOMY
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Fri Jul 08, 2016 2:22 pm

Yes so I was right.
Now I need to get one.
Anyone selling one?? Or should I put a add?
Will this one work just to test them?
Dad unplugged the charger but left the cables attached which from memory will reverse and kill the battery?
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Fri Jul 08, 2016 4:08 pm

Also anyone got a GOOD battery charger for sale cheap?
Bought about 4 off eBay worked once to never work again
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Brianmoooore
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Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:15 pm

BROOMY wrote: Dad unplugged the charger but left the cables attached which from memory will reverse and kill the battery?
Will cause no harm whatsoever. One of my vehicles has a permanently attached charger which is only plugged into the mains when it's parked up in its place.
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Fri Jul 08, 2016 7:26 pm

My old red charger used to drain the battery that's why I asked.
Will that relay temporarily work to get them to work until I get a proper one ?(car is unused so no worries about it getting accidentally pressed)
In fact what's the pins to trigger the lights to always be on like the 87 and 30 for the fuel pump?
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Brianmoooore
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Sat Jul 09, 2016 12:00 am

BROOMY wrote:My old red charger used to drain the battery that's why I asked.
Your old red charger had a knackered rectifier.
Will that relay temporarily work to get them to work until I get a proper one ?(car is unused so no worries about it getting accidentally pressed)
As I wrote earlier, the black one is the right type, but I've no way of telling if the pin layout is correct.
In fact what's the pins to trigger the lights to always be on like the 87 and 30 for the fuel pump?
Still 30 and 87, but this relay has two 87s to link to 30.
BROOMY
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Sat Jul 09, 2016 3:38 pm

So 87 and 87B? linked to 30 to get them to run yes?
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Sun Jul 10, 2016 5:39 pm

Tested the fuel pump finally, it doesn't seem to be pumping fuel, so should I get one of these?
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/for-BMW-E30-3-S ... nav=SEARCH
I just remembered to test for a voltage at the connection to the pump tomorrow I'll do that, but if I get a 12v feedback should I buy that part?
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Mon Jul 11, 2016 8:44 pm

What connection should I test? Left or Right?
What voltage do I want?
Should I jump pins 87 and 30 then test or just turn the ignition on?
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Brianmoooore
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Mon Jul 11, 2016 9:24 pm

You need the RH two pin connector. Pull it off the pump and connect a 12 volt bulb to the plug - a meter won't give a conclusive result.
You can either jump 30 to 87 on the relay or turn the engine over and the bulb should light.
Just turning on the ignition switch will not light the bulb.
BROOMY
busy saving Clifford
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Mon Jul 11, 2016 10:03 pm

Thanks Brian if I haven't said it before
Will the light just permanently be on or continuously flash?
Guess I'll just find out a˜€The fun of classic cars
I became a level 3 motor vehicle completer but have literally no clue on classic cars
BROOMY
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Wed Jul 13, 2016 12:06 am

Will that tell it to fire or just be on because I swear fuel pump always has power just when it's told to fire then it .. Well squirts?
BROOMY
busy saving Clifford
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Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:28 am

The only thing with a light is an alternator tester will this be cool?
12v to a little LED kinda thing.
BROOMY
busy saving Clifford
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Mon Jul 25, 2016 2:02 pm

Anyway Ino the fuel pump now works and the wires connecting it up.
Is there any way to clean my fuel tank out?
Like some kinda foamy liquid or something other than petrol.
BROOMY
busy saving Clifford
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Wed Jul 27, 2016 5:02 pm

Tanks now as dry as it will get using the pump.
Any kind of tank cleaner available?
Another issue is my dash it's commonly cracked does anyone reckon shoe glue will do it?
Never heard of anyone using it before in they're dash, I thought as your dash slightly moves and so must a shoe soul it may work.?
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