325 non starter ( well nearly )

[Bonymaenjack]

Long story short .
my 325 caught fire under the fuse box , this has all now been replaced and with a few exceptions everything is back working .
Just prior to the fire ( the car was parked up and not being used at the time of the fire )I had one instance of it turning over but not starting but did eventually.
Since the rebuild I disconnect the battery until I'm totally confident it is safe to leave connected and that all the remaining items are working.But when I attempt to start the car after said disconnection it takes a longgggg time for it ti fire up ,once warm it's fine it's that initial startup after reconnection which is the problem .Any advice please ?

[Speedtouch]

You are supposed to leave it to idle for at least 10 minutes to enable base idle settings to be learnt. Then switch off, restart, and take it for a drive throughout the rev range.

[Bonymaenjack]

You are supposed to leave it to idle for at least 10 minutes to enable base idle settings to be learnt. Then switch off, restart, and take it for a drive throughout the rev range.

Thanks for the reply , yes but the problem is getting it to start in the first place . once the engine cools the same thing happens ,it's a bu**er to start I've replaced the temperature sensor , fuel pump & DME relay .Ive tried a direct live feed to the pump which just proves the pump is operating , and once running I can hear the pump operating .

[Brianmoooore]

Check the fuel pressure after it's stopped and while it's parked up. A £10 ebay pressure gauge will do, plus a 6" length of 8mm high pressure fuel hose.

[Speedtouch]

I would also suggest investigating what may have caused the fire under the fuse box; once you have satisfied yourself it shouldn't happen again, leave the battery connected.

[Bonymaenjack]

I would also suggest investigating what may have caused the fire under the fuse box; once you have satisfied yourself it shouldn't happen again, leave the battery connected.

Thanks again , the fire is a mystery , the damage destroyed the fuse box and looms (ABS included)to either side .I had only recently bought the car ( 2 weeks).The previous owner had fitted a "kill" switch in the glove box and connected it into the fuel pump relay .I found no evidence of a short either in the switch or the connection (soldered not crimped) Without telling him what happened he assured me that he had not carried out any work on the fuse box .Once I had removed the fuse box and what was left of the soundproofing I found corrosion in the bulkhead so perhaps some wires had been chafing but I don't know for certain. The strange thing was the car was last driven on the Tuesday then parked up then caught fire on the Friday ??, hence my reluctance to leave it connected unaccompanied for the moment .All the wiring/box have now been replaced (2nd hand from Fritzs Bits but all the insulation removed and all connections soldered not crimped , heat shrunk and insulating tape over each joint ).

Regarding the pressure test , what exactly am I looking for ?

[Brianmoooore]

Most likely cause of a fire in the fusebox is someone slackening the hex cap bolt that can be seen on the fuse deck.
Pressure test: You're looking at what happens to the residual fuel pressure. Depending on the results, there may be further tests needed, involving clamping off various fuel hoses.

[markus_74]

I have same experience nearly same with long starter, I habe change everything and someday I found a few wire burning but undetected near the left passenger.

The wire is become bare and contact with body metal

It is make it difficultt to start while engine cold.

Hope this give some idea

[Bonymaenjack]

Thanks Brian and markus.
Regarding the pressure testing , the car prior to myself buying had been off the road
( allegedly for 5 years ) , which is criminal for any mechanical item if it wasn't done correctly which I believe it was , the car is tired and with the amount of fag burns found on all areas of the carpet then I suspect it's not been the apple of previous owners eyes for quite a while.
My intention was to replace everything mechanical such as brakes , suspension , bushes and the such like which I've done and with a decent sports interior and excellent carpet and non cracked dashboard I believe I can make it a decent example again (it's an SE Model with extra). so I don't mind spending as long as it's to the benefit of the car. So my question is what would the impact on the electrical system having had the car idle for so long ? Fuel pumps are relatively non expensive and the car is now 28 years old with little evidence of new parts being previously fitted so by process of elimination would it be safer just to replace the pump in any case which then could eliminate the problem with failing pressure .

[Brianmoooore]

pump works or it doesn't. Never known one to be the cause of low fuel pressure.

[Bonymaenjack]

pump works or it doesn't. Never known one to be the cause of low fuel pressure.

If the pump itself creates a pressure then what would I be testing if not the pump ?

[Brianmoooore]

Pressure test: You're looking at what happens to the residual fuel pressure. Depending on the results, there may be further tests needed, involving clamping off various fuel hoses.

Residual fuel pressure - what happens to the fuel pressure after the engine is stopped.
Running pressure will be checked along the way, of course, but that's set by the pressure regulator, not the pump.

[Bonymaenjack]

Pressure test: You're looking at what happens to the residual fuel pressure. Depending on the results, there may be further tests needed, involving clamping off various fuel hoses.

Residual fuel pressure - what happens to the fuel pressure after the engine is stopped.
Running pressure will be checked along the way, of course, but that's set by the pressure regulator, not the pump.

Basically I'll be checking the pressure regulator both on feed and the return .to make it easier have you a link or aware of one which would demonstrate this ?

[Bonymaenjack]

I've now replaced the Pressure regulator (Bosch) with a new one and initially I thought great , after reconnecting the battery from the day before it started instantly and I thought that was the problem solved but the same thing is happening again, 20 seconds turning over before she fires and without dipping the throttle and when she does fire the tick over is extremely low then after dipping the throttle she ticks over as normal .As I posted before she has had very little use over the past 6 years ,gummed up injectors , faulty crankshaft sensor ,any one ?
Cheers