1987 E30 Queries

[Roundymooney]

Hi folks,

Was given a link to this place from BMWland.co.uk-so said I'd drop by and check it out. I've recently got hold of a nice 4 door E30 as per the sig, and have one or two questions that I'd be delighted to have expert input on. Hopefully some of you good people will be able to help a newbie to Beemer land...

It has the 1766cc engine with the Bosch injection system. It's the M10. Does this engine have a timing belt or chain? In any case, I know it has a fairly new cam fitted, yet it has a bit of top end rattle. Is this likely to be just valve clearances. or worn stems? It's not burning oil, so I'm thinking the former.

5 speed manual cogbox... slight whine in second and a bit of baulking when cold. Any way of overcoming this medium term with Lucas or some other additive? The car will be only used at weekends-we're talking only about 2k miles a year or so-it's not a daily workhorse.

Starts on the button-I haven't even serviced it yet, but again will be shortly. I'm speaking here from a pre purchase inspection I gave it before I bought. When cold though, it can judder slightly under load (up a hill about 1200 rpm, right foot down. Rotor arm and cap fine-will I see if a service and new plugs cure this?

Slight knocking from front and rear-shock mounts? Steering is tight, so it's not track rod ends or anything like that...

Possibility of retro fitting electric windows? I'm technically minded, so don't mind a challenge, and the fitting of at present non-existing wiring won't be a problem. <edit> I've found another thread on this, great stuff! Only outstanding questions are, are the front and rear regulators the same? Do I also need new door cards to cover the cut out for the winder handle? </edit>

It's a great little car, and is very refined on the road. I've just got back from a four hour drive in a friends new Honda CR-V, and I still prefer the old E30! Even the missus prefers it to her 2 litre Korean barge with all the toys

Look forward to sticking around here. Thanks for reading.

[Brianmoooore]

Welcombe to the zone on behalf of the management. You'll find much more practical advice on here than on BMWland.
1/ M10 has a chain. Check and adjust the valve clearances.

2/Have heard that using ATF in the box helps with the stiff gearchange when cold.

3/ Give it the service first - Get the basics righrt before detailed fault finding.

4/ Worn rear shock top mounts is very common. E46 cab mounts are a bolt in upgrade.

5/Expect 87 car will have the old type window mechanisms, so you will need old type electric mech to fit the doors.
Rear mech on the later models is completely different from the front. Don't know if this applies to early models.
For the winder hole, fit tweeter pods.

[Dan318-is]

and welcome on behalf of the peasants

i would liek to add that the gearbox oil in my 318is was changed less than 2000 miles ago just before i bought it, yet it is still hard to select 1st and 2nd from cold

maybe its jsut the nature of the getrag?

[Brianmoooore]

and welcome on behalf of the peasants

i would liek to add that the gearbox oil in my 318is was changed less than 2000 miles ago just before i bought it, yet it is still hard to select 1st and 2nd from cold

maybe its jsut the nature of the getrag?

Cold shift on one of mine only became stiff immediately after I changed the oil - and the stuff that came out was bright red.

[Roundymooney]

Welcombe to the zone on behalf of the management. You'll find much more practical advice on here than on BMWland.

Thanks mate.

1/ M10 has a chain. Check and adjust the valve clearances.

2/Have heard that using ATF in the box helps with the stiff gearchange when cold.

3/ Give it the service first - Get the basics righrt before detailed fault finding.

4/ Worn rear shock top mounts is very common. E46 cab mounts are a bolt in upgrade.

5/Expect 87 car will have the old type window mechanisms, so you will need old type electric mech to fit the doors.
Rear mech on the later models is completely different from the front. Don't know if this applies to early models.
For the winder hole, fit tweeter pods.

Many thanks for those answers. They are very helpful. As regards (5), you're spot on, the car is pre-facelift. I wasn't aware that the window mechs were different, so you've saved me some money already .

I'll be servicing, hopefully this weekend, so I'll report back as soon as I do. Excellent advice on the use of tweeters to cover the hole, I never would have thought of that...

Interesting thing on the atf; my last car was a TR7 <spit!>, and a well known British Leyland bodge for their baulky four speed box was to fill the thing with atf from the factory! Would this also reduce the slight synchro whine in second I wonder? To be fair, the box is a little worn, but fine when warm, I can live with a slightly sticky second when cold if I can "quiten" the box with additive.

[Roundymooney]

and welcome on behalf of the peasants

And thank you too!

i would liek to add that the gearbox oil in my 318is was changed less than 2000 miles ago just before i bought it, yet it is still hard to select 1st and 2nd from cold

maybe its jsut the nature of the getrag?

I'd be interested to hear anyone elses gearbox experiences. Given the age of our cars, most of the original boxes will have whiskers by now, and any tips would be greatly welcomed. Mine has 130k miles up, which would kill a lot of lesser well engineered machinery. The engine is sweet as a nut, bar the need for a little TLC.

As I say, for what it's worth, I'll post anything of interest I come across.

[Kos]

[/quote]
Cold shift on one of mine only became stiff immediately after I changed the oil - and the stuff that came out was bright red.[/quote]

sound like it had ATF already, not uncommon

[Roundymooney]

The atf seems to be the way to go then