Anti dive kit
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Siggo
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Hi all. Has any one done a anti dive kit.my friends escort has it on his and works very well.
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Brianmoooore
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An E30 is a BMW, not some Ford cr*p, built saving every fraction of a penny they could. Anti dive is built into the suspension design and geometry as standard.
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minesapint
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Get him told!
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Siggo
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I have a s50 up front so under heavy braking, anything that helps il do. Yeah it's only 30 grand ford peace of ....
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ross_jsy
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I remember a few months ago there was a chap who was designing a kit. What happened with it I don't know.
All suspension design (as is car design as a whole) is a compromise. To say BMW engineered anti dive completely out is a fallacy. Everything can be improved.
All suspension design (as is car design as a whole) is a compromise. To say BMW engineered anti dive completely out is a fallacy. Everything can be improved.
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Siggo
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Cheers pal . Just looked into more.seems easy to do
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HairyScreech
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They are only used on the escorts as the suspension is a shocking set up that uses the ARB as part of the suspension mounting (like the 2002).
Absolutely no advantage on an E30.
You sure it was an anti dive kit ross?


Absolutely no advantage on an E30.
You sure it was an anti dive kit ross?


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pierce
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***edited, note to self, don't get involved without reading properly
Last edited by pierce on Thu Feb 25, 2016 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pianist
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So this anti dive kit is only an extra ARB on suspension? It is all I can make out of the images, just can't visualise how it helps with the diving 
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ross_jsy
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I realised after posting it was a roll centre correction kit
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pierce
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pianist wrote:So this anti dive kit is only an extra ARB on suspension? It is all I can make out of the images, just can't visualise how it helps with the diving
It doesn't.... someone didn't read the thread correctly!
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jmc330i
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It may be £30k now, but that doesn't change the original design of the thing.Siggo wrote:Yeah it's only 30 grand ford peace of ....
James
'91 325i Sport
'93 318i touring 16v
'91 325i Sport
'93 318i touring 16v
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Siggo
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I now that . I'm not a car expert that's why joined the site to get as much info as poss.his is quicker handles and stops better.so any thing I can take from him I will try surely the same principles applies.
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DanThe
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Then shed some weight as that will be the main advantage of the escortSiggo wrote:I now that . I'm not a car expert that's why joined the site to get as much info as poss.his is quicker handles and stops better.so any thing I can take from him I will try surely the same principles applies.
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Brianmoooore
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The E30 uses a semi trailing arm rear suspension. When the brakes are applied, a torque is applied to the arm in the direction that compresses the spring. This counteracts the tendency of the rear to lift under braking = anti dive. Similarly, when accelerating, the torque is applied in the other direction = anti squat.
In contrast, the Escort has a single rigid bar structure for a rear axle, solely located by cart springs, courtesy of the Roman Empire. There is absolutely no lateral location other than the springs, applying brakes throws the rear end into the air, and applying power rotates the complete axle, causing the car to hop down the road like a demented frog.
All this can be improved of course by welding various extra linkages to the axle and effectively completely redesigning the suspension.
I remember the old Alan Mann and Dave Brodie Escorts that I got the chance to inspect back in the day. Leaf springs retained, to comply with the regs., but reduced to the thinnest bit of steel they could get away with, and a whole new suspension effectively added on.
I'm no stranger to Escorts - I've had three, including learning to drive on one. One of these three was the one that ground to a halt 100 miles into its first journey through lack of fuel to the engine. Ford had omitted to fit a vent to the fuel tank, and it had collapsed under the vacuum produced - typical of Ford 'quality'.
In contrast, the Escort has a single rigid bar structure for a rear axle, solely located by cart springs, courtesy of the Roman Empire. There is absolutely no lateral location other than the springs, applying brakes throws the rear end into the air, and applying power rotates the complete axle, causing the car to hop down the road like a demented frog.
All this can be improved of course by welding various extra linkages to the axle and effectively completely redesigning the suspension.
I remember the old Alan Mann and Dave Brodie Escorts that I got the chance to inspect back in the day. Leaf springs retained, to comply with the regs., but reduced to the thinnest bit of steel they could get away with, and a whole new suspension effectively added on.
I'm no stranger to Escorts - I've had three, including learning to drive on one. One of these three was the one that ground to a halt 100 miles into its first journey through lack of fuel to the engine. Ford had omitted to fit a vent to the fuel tank, and it had collapsed under the vacuum produced - typical of Ford 'quality'.
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HairyScreech
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The best OEM solid axle set up I have seen it the old Scimitar one Brian.

The e30 system works until the car is lowered too much and then it causes lift once the arms are past parallel. It also mullars the anti squat.
Roll centre correction is worthwhile on a very low e30 but hard to do on a non-M3 due to the struts.

The e30 system works until the car is lowered too much and then it causes lift once the arms are past parallel. It also mullars the anti squat.
Roll centre correction is worthwhile on a very low e30 but hard to do on a non-M3 due to the struts.
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Brianmoooore
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Which is what I keep repeating on here to the "I want to lower my E30 by 80mm" brigade.HairyScreech wrote:
The e30 system works until the car is lowered too much and then it causes lift once the arms are past parallel. It also mullars the anti squat.
The only way to lower an E30 properly is to effectively lower the body on the chassis, which doesn't come cheap.
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Siggo
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Done more research .came across this article . Il just put part right up .hope it makes sense. Under heavy braking the front dives and camber get worse and traction reduced. One way round this is to use anti dive geometry by renginearing the lower wishbone mounting points either dropping the front or raising the rear. Another is to use hard springs. Both options have there problems. A better solution is to introduce negetive camber by using modified or adjustable lower wishbones to set the lower end or the strut further outboard. This also increases track width slightly which can make a small improvement in cornering.
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davelarge
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Sounds like you've answered your own question, the simplest solution will be stiffer springs and upgraded shocks.
Most people recommend bilstien shocks/Spring unless you are going for coilovers.
Most people recommend bilstien shocks/Spring unless you are going for coilovers.
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Siggo
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It's has all that 51 m struts bills and eibach springs.it has a s50 3litre engine . How do people get on with v8 or heavier engine 's in .instaling a thicker arb 4 point brace bar . Have reinfored trailering arm to go on and a boot brace. Hope it's abit better after all that
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pianist
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Don't know if you asking or answering here
but with heavier engine all you need is stiffer springs to take the weight and I think the rule of the thumb is rears have to be only 50-60% stiffness of fronts
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karlmac
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engine in back,tank in front,porsche.
