AAAAaahhhhh!! Door actuator!!!

[daboy3000]

Any links, vids to help please would be great. Can't even get the door open and its a complete pain in the arse. To be honest I don't even know what it looks like but i'm pretty sure its fried.

I have searched loads but nothing has come up that actually helps an imbecile like me.

UPDATED SEE BELOW

[brutus]

hi, its a plastic piece, about 7" long red & white, at the rear of the door. 2 x 8 mil bolts.

[Brianmoooore]

hi, its a plastic piece, about 7" long red & white, at the rear of the door. 2 x 8 mil bolts.

Just under the edge of the door card. Screws aren't as big as 8mm, though. Without checking, I'd guess at 6mm head, although could be 7mm.
Very late cars use a completely different lock motor, which is built into the door catch mechanism, similar to E34/36 locks.

[daboy3000]

The white and red thing? I guess i have to get a spanner inside the door to disconnect it?

[Brianmoooore]

If the lock is stuck because of a seized actuator, all you have to do is unscrew the two self tappers that hold it, and let it hang free on its linkage. They are readily accessible, just under the edge of the door card, although behind the plastic film.

[daboy3000]

I just can't get anything in there to turn them. I think its a torx 20 but the window runner is in the way, I loosened it to give me a bit of room but it just seems impossible without the right tool.

Anyone know what I need?

[jmc330i]

The white and red thing? I guess i have to get a spanner inside the door to disconnect it?

If the lock is stuck because of a seized actuator, all you have to do is unscrew the two self tappers that hold it, and let it hang free on its linkage. They are readily accessible, just under the edge of the door card, although behind the plastic film.

IIRC, these are the two self tappers Brian is talking about....

[daboy3000]

Mine seem to be on the inside, that is why I can't get to them!

[Brianmoooore]

Don't think I've ever seen one like that! Looks like a 'standard' actuator, but mounted in a completely different way.
What age and model is this E30?
If there is a single bolt holding the bottom of the window glass runner? If so, undo it, and try to pull the metal part downwards about 10mm or so. You may find that the metal part of the runner is in two pieces, and the bottom part is designed to be swung out of the way.

[daboy3000]

Its a 93 model. I have moved the runner but it only has half an inch movement each way.

Showed the photo to my mechanic and asked him what he would do, he showed me a tiny ratchet spanner that takes torx etc bits. Going to order one up.

[daboy3000]

I have just ordered this. Pretty sure I will be able to do it now.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350704507011

[jmc330i]

Don't think I've ever seen one like that! Looks like a 'standard' actuator, but mounted in a completely different way.
What age and model is this E30?

It looks the same as a '93/94 I have here. Pic taken from the drivers door...



Would the bracket be part of the door catch? Or is that a bolt head hiding behind the window runner? (possibly missing the lower bolt as this car is a breaker)

[daboy3000]

Mine is a photo of the drivers side as it was easier to get into to look at what is going on. Your photo is the same, I think it comes off if you unbolt the door catch but of course I can't get to the door catch with the door closed.

[Brianmoooore]

Seems like it might be a short lived set up used between the 'usual' E30 arrangement, and the E34/36 type, fitted to very late E30s. where the lock motor is of a completely different (and inferior) design, and mounted on top of the catch.
As I said in my last post, the lower part of the glass guide almost certainly swings out of the way.
If this is a completely standard 'normal' E30 lock motor, you may as well refit a replacement in the same place, but if it's not, it shouldn't be difficult to retro fit all of the old type linkage, and fit the replacement motor in the slotted holes in the inner door skin.

[daboy3000]

UPDATE

So after many hours I finally replaced it, although it wouldn't unlock from the drivers side, it would lock the drivers side!

So now it seems to have happened again and I cannot unlock or even open the door. I know that the system isn't working properly as it is hit and miss that it unlocks the boot and fuel flap. Is it possible that when using the deadlock on the drivers side that the passenger door is stuck locked because its not getting a signal or has this actuator gone too?

I am also hearing a buzzing/wurring noise coming from where the drivers side speaker is, its not a healthy sound. I take it that's some kind of control unit, could that be causing all my problems.

Its really getting me down so any help would be great.

[daboy3000]

UPDATE 2

Well, went out to try a few things and suddenly the CL starting working from the boot so then i tried the passenger door and it unlocked. It seems related to the dead lock.

Is it normal that I have to turn the drivers key to the dead lock position for it to lock the car?

Why can I lock the car but not unlock it from the passengers side. Is it all to do with the buzzing module thing?

[Brianmoooore]

Has the red/black wire mod. been done?

[daboy3000]

No, next job, could this be the answer? Although i guess the drivers lock should lock the door without having to turn it all the way horizontal and dead locking it.

[Brianmoooore]

Red/black wire mod. is one of the first jobs that should be done to ANY E30, whether or not it has locking problems, and should certainly be first on the list on a car that has lock troubles.

[daboy3000]

Ok, is that both sides?

[Brianmoooore]

The only side you'll do the red/black mod. is the drivers' side.