Touring gutter trim removal

Post Mon Dec 14, 2015 8:44 pm

Like the title says
I've got a water leak into the drivers side rear quarter, boot area
I thought that it may have been the rear light cluster gasket but it wasn't
Turns out that when I sprayed water on the roof the car leaks in above the rear quarter window
The sunroof tray is good and I cannot see any water getting in from the pipe so the plan is to water test just the gutter tomorrow if it fails the test then I'll need to take off the gutter trim
Cheers for looking
Parkin10

Post Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:43 pm

Hello parkin10, I think your asking for this info, bimmerforums one is how to paint it as well, cheers

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/inde ... im_removal

also

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt ... -Edge-Trim

Post Tue Dec 15, 2015 12:02 am

The body coloured 'fin' behind the rear side windows is a very common place for water to leak into a touring. The trim is held in place by two plastic grommets which should be replaced whenever the trim piece is removed.

Post Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:05 pm

For those of you who are interested my water leak was the window frame
[img][img]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/150x10 ... ofJr7L.jpg[/img][/img]
Motormanmick thanks for the link

Brian the 'fin' as you put it came off clean the clips survived

Cheers all for looking
Parkin10

Post Tue Dec 15, 2015 9:12 pm

Glad you got it sorted. Maybe that's where mines leaking an all. Could be my arches though! I'll check the fins also now, didn't know that,thanks Brian.

Post Wed Dec 16, 2015 8:45 am

Mine had a leak around the fuel tank breather pipe in the wheel arch
And though a seam in the sunroof,drips onto the passenger courtesy light,going to try and fix this today
Also started running bad yesterday,blue temp sensor?

Post Wed Dec 16, 2015 10:03 am

parkin10 wrote:
Brian the 'fin' as you put it came off clean the clips survived

They may appear to have survived, but they tend to distort if reused and will always be a potential source of water entering the cabin.There's a lot of water flows past those clips when it's raining hard.
As for your "bad running", without knowing exactly what that means, or even which engine you have, the first thing I'd check is for splits and cracks in the large convoluted hose between the air meter/filter and the throttle body.

Post Wed Dec 16, 2015 10:30 am

It's a m20b25 1989
The blue temp sensor reads
Multi meter set to 2k
Cold 3.12 ohm
Hot .272 ohm

I don't think there's a problem with any air leaks
It does run well on the lpg though

Post Wed Dec 16, 2015 1:57 pm

I think there may be a 'k' missing from your resistance figures! 3.12 kohm is a little low for a cold engine in December, but since it's 16 degrees where I am, or possibly the engine wasn't absolutely stone cold, it's probably OK. Wouldn't cause rough normal running, anyway.
272 ohms (0.272 kohm) is absolutely spot on for hot running.
All measured at the ECU plug, I hope?
What kind of LPG system? Injection or mixer ring? Electronically controlled with a lambda sensor if mixer type?

Post Wed Dec 16, 2015 5:48 pm

Mixer ring, controlled
Any way it's the air flow meter the flap is rubbing
Now I wonder if the lpg has done a little back fire and I've not noticed
I cannot see it just starting to bind on it's own
So I've taken a big screwdriver and hammer to a very delicate instrument
It runs well now at least and the hammer is free!
Now to the water leaks