injector rail modding?

[gcorky]

when you put upgraded fuel reg into m20 injector rail how is it usually done ,hose tail soldered in or something?to do away with the o-ring type fitment?

[Turbo-Brown]

Think aftermarket replacement ones fit straight on don't they?

TBH, there's not really much you can upgrade with regards to the FPR.

Those power boost valve things are a waste of time by all accounts, and just upping the pressure without telling the ECU will just lead to overfueling all over the shop

[gcorky]

gonna fit rising rate 12:1 ,f.i.

[Turbo-Brown]

Why?

Just adding more fuel to the engine won't improve performance or economy!

[gcorky]

why?
because i am not gonna use boost retarder,
e36 m3 injectors with a risin rate reg is what im gonna fit?

im keeping motronic for now you see.

[Turbo-Brown]

Ah haaaa!

Sorry, thought you were talking about a standard engine

Aren't the 3.2 injectors supposed to run at 5bar as opposed to 3?

Guess Jon-Bmw is the guy to talk to about the FMU fitting

[Ant]

FMU/RRFPR is a bad idea, simple I know but in my experience you'll regret the decision in minutes.

there are some issues with your planned setup

1, idle, with the bigger inj, the motronic will be flooding the engine at anything under 4K, unless you can recode the chip theres no soloution to this....

2, the stock fuel pump will not be able to deliver the fuel @ the pressures required, you'll need an e36 M3 5 bar unit or a walbro aftermarket, both require subtle mods to fit.

3, I assume you'll retain the AFM ?, if you have it as a suck through ( pre turbo) then the engine will have no IAT metering, bad idea as density decreases with temp, and your're gonna be adding a good few degrees even with a good IC setup or water injection.

Basically, I think you'll be wasting good money, dont go old skool, you need an aftermarket ECU or piggyback.

the parts you listed will be cԚ£ 300 minimum, you can buy an MS V3.0 and solder it up for under Ԛ£200, thats full mapping control of any injetcors and boost retaded fully mapped ignition.

More work up front, but a far better result for your Ԛ£Ã”šÃ‚£, blood, sweat and tears

only my 2p worth I know, but I've been there done that, learn from my mistakes, do it right 1st time

[gcorky]

the parts you listed will be cԚ£ 300 minimum, you can buy an MS V3.0 and solder it up for under Ԛ£200, thats full mapping control of any injetcors and boost retaded fully mapped ignition.

got the bits ant bar the reg....ms under 200 quid but it sounds a nightmare!!!!!thats what is puttin me off .....simplicity!!!

[Ant]

agreed the setup is bewildering at first , but myself or Fozz can supply you a map to get you running well enough to get it tuned 100%, all the setup options are part of the map dude.

setting up for the injectors is easy to, just punch in the flow rate and the maps are rescaled.

If you need help M8, we can all offer advice.

mines still ditch the FMU idea, its a dead end TBH

If the soldering is an issue, then buy a completed tested kit from any reputable seller.


the wiring is not bad and you can re-use the motronic loom in certain places making it easier still

[gcorky]

ant i have sent a pm to you as i could ask a million questions here.....lol

[Jon_Bmw]

Got to agree with what most of Ant said if you are investing serious dollar else where on the project then full engine management is the way forwards, megasquirt or emerald, you'll have to ask the "boys" about the pros and cons of each as thats not something i'm not up on.

Going with ants negative points here are my opinions about them or possible solutions.

1. I agree to some extent, adjusting the afm flap(tightening) gets one around the serious lumpy idle and general overrichness(not a word I know). One has to make some comprimises, personally I can live with the fact that the idle is never going to be as smooth as a standard m20. Its not overfueling so much that it fouls the plugs nor so much that you'd think there was a serious over fueling problem.

Again if you are sitting in traffic idling half the time the custom ECU may be better to get that perfect idle, but correct me if i'm wrong Ant its a b**ch to even get that with megasquirt.

2. I haven't had a problem with lack of fuel pressure and thats up to 8psi of boost. I can't say what fuel pressure it needs or the pump provides but my gut feeling is that it has enough fuel supplied to the injectors. No pinking etc etc. I think 15+psi and one needs a bigger fuel pump.

3. Hmm interesting topic this one, people could argue all day which is best. The way I see it if you put it after the turbo the pressure is greater and therefore the air flow is reduced, taking away the primary function of the meter. Therefore i think its essential to have it before the turbo, one day i may try after but not yet. The IAT sensor Ant, is that temperature i presume. Well to solve this you could add a faily crude but simple PIC which looks up values from one table and changes the output given to ECU from another table.

i.e 10 degrees pre turbo and the pic adjust that to 12 degrees
etc etc.

I am under no illusion that a FMU is better than a standalone ECU, but they can be made to work and work fairly well with patience. Basically at the end of the day if you can afford megasquirt, the laptop, the wideband sensor, and can tune it, then definatly buy it! If not a FMU can be used for a acceptable replacement in my opinion.

Jon

[Turbo-Brown]

With regards to the idle, I set mine properly yesterday to about 1k rpm.

I haven't got an IACV so it might be a little different to set if you do, but the Emerald ECU has an idle stabilisation using ignition advance function which seems to work beautifully!

If you blip the throttle it picks up immediately and if the throttle's slammed shut, you can hear the engine get a kick up to speed as the revs drop below the threshold.

Presumably the MS has similar functions to make life nice and easy