E30 Touring deadlocks - can't open car!

[LucasE30]

Help!

My 325i Touring is locked with the deadlocks. I have usually been only locking from the passenger side as the deadlock on the driver's side has been unreliable since the car came back from the bodyshop. I must have forgotten the last time and locked from the driver's side and the deadlock is ON and I am unable to unlock or get into the car - not even through the tailgate.

Is there any way of getting in, without breaking a window to gain access to the interior and then remove the door card to access the barrel / mechanism?

Thanks in advance.

[Brianmoooore]

There's no dead lock motor on the driver's door. Try lifting the handle at the same time as you turn the key.

[LucasE30]

Brian, I've just tried that. The deadlock is engaged and I can't turn the key to the right to disengage. Any ideas? Thanks.

[Brianmoooore]

I can't turn the key to the right to disengage.

Is this something new? There's nothing can stop that, other than a problem with the over centre mechanism on the end of the lock barrel.
Are you using a key that you've unlocked the tailgate with before?
One of your keys shouldn't work in the tailgate and glovebox locks.
The tailgate should be able to be unlocked with a master key when the system is deadlocked, but it won't be able to if the lock motor has been fried.
It's a simple enough job to force out the top corner of a door window far enough to drop in something to pull up the lock button with, but this won't help, if the deadlocks are on or fried. If the door frame bends, it can easily be bent back again with no damage, when the door is finally open.
If all the above fails, then the windscreen is easy enough for two people to remove to gain access.

[LucasE30]

I have all the keys for the car. This is the master key and it will turn in the tailgate through 90 degrees but not further which is how it would unlock the car when the system isn't deadlocked.

The driver's door lock will not move past the vertical clockwise to unlock the deadlocks, no matter how much I jiggle it. I have tried the lifting handle while jiggling the key routine and still nothing. Could water have got into the a post connector during the heavy rain the past few days. The car is steamed up.

Trouble is the car's blocking in two other cars on the driveway, so I'm stuck!

Bending the door won't help as it will still be deadlocked, plus, don't want to damage anything as it has recently been painted, etc.

Is the only alternative removing the front screen to gain access to interior, remove door card and mechanically release the lock?

[Brianmoooore]

I can assure you that pulling the top of the door out won't do any damage, but if it's deadlocked, it's deadlocked.
Removing the front screen is the only way in without causing damage. Once in, the tailgate can be released by unscrewing the U shaped bar for the catch with a 13mm spanner, and you can put the screen straight back in.

[LucasE30]

OK, thanks. That's what I'll have to do!

[andyp]

get a can of WD40 with the straw attached to it and keep spraying it in the lock and keep trying the key, it worked for me in the end and been fine ever since

[theretroking]

happened to me wd40 and some force done the job

[LucasE30]

I posted a full report earlier but it has not appeared on the forum. Strange.

This response is shorter than my original. What really happened as much more complex.

I got in the car, removed door card and eventually released the lock. The licking module in the footwell behind speaker was soaking wet, MELTING and making fizzing noises. If I'd have left it much longer I suspect it might have set the car on fire. I removed a locking module from my other E30 Touring & plugged it in, but locks still don't work and the working unit made buzzing noise, so disconnected to prevent damage.

I'm left with 3 doors & tailgate still deadlocked and locked fuel filler.

Anyone any more ideas to get doors unlocked?

Thanks in advance.

[Brianmoooore]

This is a very common fault, caused by blocked drain slots in the bottom of the sills, and is where I thought this thread would lead. Water is supposed to get into the sills, but it is also supposed to have a way out again.
If the locking ECU is flooded, it tends to power the lock motors continuously, instead of just for a brief period, resulting in all the motors becoming well and truly cooked. You will probably need to disconnect each lock motor to enable the respective lock to work again, and to replace each one, plus the locking ECU to get the system back to normal.
It's one of the worst faults that can occur on an E30, and all usually caused by someone being careless/overenthusiastic with underseal.

[LucasE30]

That's very interesting, Brian. Funny thing is,there's no water inside that area, just in the control module itself. It actually looks like mud when I opened up the module. I've owned this car from new and it has only recently had some bodywork done but has never had any repairs underneath. I will have to check if they've undersealed where they shouldn't have and ensure the drains are clear. They certainly are for the sunroof (all 4 of them) as are the plenum drains. I thought the sill cavities were full of waxoyl from new, but I may have mis-remembered this over the 26 years since I got her!

I will have to look at all doors, etc and might do without central locking altogether!

Thanks again for all help.